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edinmass

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Everything posted by edinmass

  1. I noticed the cars advertised in the HCCA. I’ll try and find a few photos of the Pierce.
  2. Update: Back on the road today! You did get to the party late.......too bad. I’m amazed at the White truck guys and their knowledge. Ultimately we needed to address the entire car and all its mechanical parts. The right rear wheel hub and axel had been hacked at by a tractor mechanic back in the 20’s. The car was parked in early 1928 and was only briefly run in 1939-1940. Then it sat again till August of 2020. We decided to pull the driver side apart since there was no damage that could be seen, and it had a axel seal leak covering the brake drum .........it comes apart in an i
  3. Matt.........I don’t think I would be happy with that repair either. Hard to say what the best avenue is without actually seeing it in person. Maybe a stitch repair would be an option. Just what you wanted to hear. The try it without the engine installed is the way to go. I would probably test it to 15 pounds over the called for regular torque. If it holds there, then I think it may be a gamble you can try...........but I’m guessing another R&R will bum you out. I think a certain fix even if it causes a delay is best. Maybe a few other eyes would be helpful.
  4. Interesting fact, I had two people contact me about buying an early 30’s pre war big car from this site in the last year. John was one of them. In the last two weeks, both bought a club sedan.....John and his Packard, and the other friend a 1932 Pierce club sedan. Fun and strange coincidence. I’m certain both gentlemen will be happy with their purchase.
  5. AND THE ANSWER IS............BAD COIL, AND IT'S NEW! I STILL HAVE NOT CHECKED THE DISTRIBUTOR OR CARBURETOR....MORE TO COME.
  6. Well........we ALL make mistakes........don't we? 🤔 No worries......still time for him to get a Pierce!😝
  7. Looks very nice. I haven’t driven a 733. It sure looks like you purchased a very presentable and drivable car. Take you time. Don’t be in a hurry. Fluids, lubrication, safety inspection, ect. Start with very short trips, and work your way up to sorting it to its optimal performance. Try and get a written history from the past owner ASAP.........photos, paperwork, Ext. History gets lost and forgotten quickly. Looking forward to more pictures and your learning curve on your first early 30’s Classic. When we meet in person, I’ll show you the secret handshake now that you have a car that qualifies
  8. Keep it out of the sun. Nothing will help as far as chemicals go. How is it running? Is the water issue solved?
  9. It's a very good car, and a category one ACD vehicle........I would consider it a factory blower. Model J's are hot as they can be right now..........I would think that the car will brings a very respectable price.
  10. In 1979 I attempted to join the Pierce Arrow Society. An "old jerk" at the table pushed me away and blew me off. It was 6 years later before I attempted to join again. He was still there a decade later. I spoke to the club officers, and they finally dumped him. I bet he turned off five hundred people over the years. I went on to become a prolfic owner and manufacturer of Pierce cars and parts. Instead of being a 42 year member, I'm a 36 year member. Your "front man" need to be a people person, not an old miseriable grease monkey. Later on he mellowed, and I became friends with him, though I n
  11. New rim, new ring, new spokes, factory hub.
  12. Interesting....my 1914 Caddy didn't have a pop off valve from the factory. I didn't know the 20's cars had them. With their propensity to burn, a non powder fire extinguisher should be used, as the powder will ruin paint, damage a running engine, and make a mess that takes months to clean up. Having a good BRASS float is important....the cork units suck........... PS - Sunnyjay.........looks like a very nice car.
  13. Having a “show car” makes it ten times harder. Barn finds and forty year old restorations don’t show scratches and dings. New fresh paint on wheels that then need snap rings installed are true nightmares. Then having a ring snap or crack when the truck picking up the car is only a few hours out adds to the entertainment just before Pebble.. Snap ring and wheel failure has occurred on the last four tours I have been on. Not only old wheels.......entirely new wheels are suffering failures today. 2/3 of the problems is workmanship and lack of experience. These are new wheels, sna
  14. Just something for thought.............. Virtually every tire guy working on a split ring, snap ring, clincher, ect...........has ABSOLUTELY NO CLUE about antique cars, has no clue about metal fatigue, has no clue on difficulty in replacement parts, ect. I can think of four or five shops that I would trust with my wheels. Today, I was doing tire work on my GMC crew cab tow vehicle. Last “good” shop that worked in it for me, that came with great recommendations........damaged my wheels, installed them incorrectly, over tightened the lugs, and didn’t properly apply never seize as I r
  15. Caution........do not drive the car with this condition. You should carry three Halon fire extinguishers when driving this car because of their propensity to burn to the ground.......and take your garage and house with it. You should install a pressure pop off valve, limiting tank pressure and helping to vent over aggressive air pumps. I also recommend an in line electric cut off switch with a impact sensor to shut the fuel off to the carburetor even if you still have pressure in the tank. A sunk float, or over pressurized system is a disaster waiting to happen on these cars. They bu
  16. A year or two.......for the chassis. Hell, I expect my ride before the end of this year! Pick up the pace........after reading all these pages it’s time for you to start giving rides in your car! 👍
  17. A rubber supply house can provide material of the right durometer to machine and press the sleeve in. The felt seal is probably something you will have to make up. On Pierce covers, we remove the internal plate, spin up a ring on the lathe, weld it in, and run a modern seal. Over the years we did so many, we started to sell them exchange with a new seal and ready to paint.
  18. Yachtflame here has a starter last I knew. Water pump.......post a photo, I may have a 32......thr water discharge are different on 32’s vs 31’s.
  19. Unfortunately, I think many clubs will consolidate in the future. Nature of the beast. Demographics, on line chat rooms, Facebook clubs, Ext.............. no one is going to throw running and driving cars away.......but prices and events will surly be different in the future. Personally, I have been doing much more of the “email and Facebook” club events since the pandemic hit. Time will tell.......
  20. It all comes down to guessing and making a mess of things, or properly do your homework and find a correct unit, and then tune it to the car........by tune it, I mean a five gas exhaust analyzer. Everything else is guessing, and poor workmanship. Tuning for anything except optimal fuel burn is foolish and a wast of time. Melt a piston, burn valves, wash down cylinders. Tossing something on is quite simply put........ ridiculous.
  21. FYI - on accessing the information on a cars computer memory, including the cameras that are on cars like Tesla, and the interactive driving cameras on most BMW’s and the such. One of the leading top authorities on electronic information and its use in the courts happens to be active here. I called and asked him specific questions about who and how the information could be accessed. Rest assured, it can be gotten to using the usual legal procedures. Thus, driving a modern car with all its processors and memory from vehicle information, you may actually expose yourself to prosecution and civil
  22. Your chassis looks nice. Don’t worry about fuel mileage, worry about stoichiometry. You can do damage playing around without a five gas machine. Just tossing on carburetors is asking for trouble.
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