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edinmass

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Everything posted by edinmass

  1. Fun fact, the white building in the background is Briggs Cunningham’s shop where he built all his cars in the 50’s.
  2. Just a bit of local flavor.........and it's rare as the car. 😇
  3. Fred.....all that makes sense. New studs and nuts probably will cure your issues. Sounds like you have done everything you should have........which is rare today. Once you get the gasket to seal, we can talk on the phone and I will help you get the carb set up right.
  4. Many often times talked about, and done in photo shop. He is what occours when you take the circus era "upgraded" look back to factory as delivered. Less is ALWAYS more pre war. REMOVED: Mirrors on side mounts. Canvas covers on side mounts. Painted wheels back to factory color. Plated snap rings as they were when new. All new tires and tubes. Complete under car service. Put oil in shocks and fixed leaks, they are working fine. More to come later, including a video up to 65 mph on the first test drive.
  5. My guess is modern aluminum is much more stable, and probably ten time stronger. Metallurgy has come a long way.
  6. Fred........thanks for the detailed update. I will assume the car was in drivable condition and you are chasing a head gasket issue. I have owned a bunch of these cars......and worked on many more. I consider it a “non issue” head gasket vehicle. I have never had one leak ever. I have never had one fail, ever. Makes me suspicious that there is something you are not seeing. Don’t adjust or change anything else. Sounds like you have a decent understanding of what’s going on. I would pull the head, strip the paint with a chemical stripper.....not sand blast or glass bead........and take it to a shop with a Magna flux machine. You need to start eliminating things. Thinking things are ok isn’t going to help, you need to know they are ok. You can pressure check the head gasket by putting air pressure in the plug hole by using a compression tester hooked up to shop air. Check each individual cylinder........it will pinpoint the problem area. My bet is you have multiple areas leaking.........all the studs should be removed, checked for length and thread condition, and the reinstalled and sealed. It’s been a long time since I did an early V-8 head..........new head gaskets seldom leak as bad as you are describing.........I’m thinking crack..........where? I have no idea as those blocks and heads are not known to crack. Rust....yes, rot internally..........absolutely. Your going to need to get creative to figure it out.
  7. Rusty, your correct it could be done post restoration..........but to turn it around, how many miles would one usually get on a Mustang clutch? Could be 100k, or 1k. Poor workmanship is almost impossible to fix on restorations. I agree if it’s a good car and just a bad clutch......it’s a very easy fix.
  8. Here are what new Duesenberg rods, pistons, wrist pins, etc. look like. In the past we used a famous racing piston.......and they are having issues now. This set is a new to us company that don’t have their head up their arse. Photos disappeared........sorry.
  9. A early Mustang is NOT rocket science........as a matter of fact........it doesn’t get much simpler or easier. No fault of non mechanical owners.........but if you can’t gat a transmission in a 60’s Ford right, you probably can’t get anything right. Steer clear of the car. Good Mustangs with no bad habits are not that hard to find. If your only thinking price.......you whole approach to cars is wrong. Buy the best car you can find.....it’s much less expensive.
  10. If you can’t restore a Mustang and get it right......you can be sure the rest of the car is probably not right.
  11. Head gaskets won’t and shouldn’t stick. You really didn’t give us any information on why you changed it the first time. The carburetor problem is related to the choke and the free throttle arm along with some other issues. The carburetor on you car is terrible and difficult at best to set up correctly. Did you clean out the block and check for rust? How are the freeze plugs? Your trying to do way too much, and you have a bunch of problems that need to be addressed before you try and drive it again. You need to sort one system at a time, make sure each is functioning as new, and move on to the next. It’s not a 350 Chevy. With everything perfect, performance on that car is middle of the road at best. I recommend you give up on any driving plans for a while. Timing, points synchronization, plug heat range, carburetor issues, fuel issues, head gaskets leaking......your trying to patch and drive......bad idea. Not trying to be negative.......but you need to get to a baseline, and get stuff fixed. Your car is extremely difficult to set up correctly, with everything stock, in place, and functional. Been there, done that. You float cork? Brass? Does it have the progressive hinge or was it removed? Needle and seat modern or factory? Float height? Fuel pressure? We are just getting started. Are the heat tubes blocked off to the intake manifold ? Step back, catch your breath, get the correct parts on the car. Your car is exactly what I would use for an example NOT to buy for a first early car.........they can be excessively hard to get correct.......without budget considerations. First off, I would figure out the head gasket leak. Then I would do a compression test.....before ANYTHING else.
  12. So, after the loss of the other White Moto Meeter........look what I bought. Thanks to our member here who gave me the heads up............NOS.......not too shabby.
  13. In other Pierce Arrow literature of the time, the factory explained that more than half the paint was wet sanded off the car. They claimed 16 gallons product was installed. It was a very specific advertisement explaining that they use the most expensive and detailed process in the car market.
  14. Our recent barn find had the original rods it it. You can see them crack before they fail. The pistons in our car were original also. The material failed after we started it for the first time in 50 years. The invar strut came lose from the casting and the skirt cracked. So, yes.......you replace all original Duesenberg J pistons and rods ASAP.
  15. At the New York Auto Show.......1929........
  16. Maybe I should put the top down?
  17. And we fixed the smoking problem. It’s now no longer smoking at all. Oil pressure is very good. Runs cool. Unfortunately we will now have unlimited mosquitos in the neighborhood. We didn’t have any before .
  18. Better photos tomorrow, after the speed run.
  19. Before, and after. Much better.
  20. One down five to go……
  21. I’ll comment tonight. Prepping for Pebble Beach.
  22. No more clown colors ending the circus wagon look. Tomorrow’s photos will have her on the ground looking like it did at the auto show 92 years ago. No red wheels, no white walls, and new chrome snap rings......and the 20 inch rubber was enough money to give you religion. Speed run tomorrow after lunch........we shall see if the AAA 103 mph number at Murdoch Dry Lake is true to the reports from 1929. Anyone want to give odds that we hit the century mark..............hair on fire, hell bent for leather..........Phil will shoot a video riding shotgun. As Sammy Hagar says, I can’t drive 55!
  23. The Autolite will work fine, has a different shunt. I have used the identical unit on many cars. They were reproduced until fairly recently. Some were made of Chineesium. Those seems to work well. The original units are just about impossible to find. There is one good guy who can service them in Massachuetts.......AJ knows and lives near him. As you know, EVERYTHING about that unit is IMPOSSIBLE to find, and difficult to service. Use caution when servicing it......or it will bite you in the ass.
  24. You have good taste. I have owned a bunch of 33 & 34 Pierce Arrow cars. The biggest hurdle is your location. Hunting for Pierce Arrow’s where you are is like hunting unicorns. Project cars are available if you look hard enough. Problem is that they are also “parts cars” in today’s current market. Hauling a non running car is very expensive, and if hauled on an open trailer theft of parts is a big issue. You can and would be better to try and find a stalled project, or an old amateur restoration that’s been sitting for years. There are plenty of cars around under ten thousand dollars. Having the ability to react fast with cash, pick up the car, and make the deal go down are your biggest obstacles. Pierce Arrow’s are heavy.....you need better equipment than most local guys have that play with Mustangs and Chevrolet’s. Join the Pierce Arrow Society, use their chat room. Also the Facebook pages. You need to be the first guy through the door to make deals.......looking in Hemmings won’t make that happen. Save as much as you can, buy the best car you can afford. Buying a Pierce for a first car is great ambition........but they are not easy to own as a first car.........very doable.......but not easy. Welcome to the AACA forum. Good bunch of guys here. Here is one of the last five cars I purchased for parts two years ago........it could have been saved.......if you have the time and money.
  25. In 1939, if you were willing to buy a Packard 12, can you asked them to take it outside and burn it to the ground after you payed for it, they would. I don’t think there is any doubt that extra chrome up front was common on the cars shipped to India...........how common was it in the US? No clue. I can say this to 27 Stutz.........I could never have that look “grow on me”. It sure is a unique styling option.
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