edinmass

I have no clue. If it’s not pre 1942 I don’t know much about them. It’s a wonderful collection owned by a great guy.

Our ride to lunch today…..

Another day, another brake job. Just your every day run of the mill world class car.

Morgan, I'm sure you could..........but mechanics like high numbers in the flat rate book. But back then, even the dealership garage floor was probably just dirt, jack stands, and a bare bulb with an outhouse out back. 😀

These Cords, when properly sorted are fantastic drivers............ I don't recommend them for a first time buyer!

Nope…….needs an enema.

AJ, I’m impressed. You now have three or four cars sorted! A record for you! Bravo!

I find it interesting that the 34 Buick with the crappy Marvel carb doesn’t hot soak, but the 36 Packard dumps fuel like the Exon Valdez………..? Benefits of updraft! I find it interesting that you finally have the car sorted after three years…….shouldn't be too difficult, it’s just an old car. Great example why cars are so expensive today. Parts cost was almost zero…….labor time, almost unlimited. How many hours do you, as trained engineer from a top school; have in it? Whats up with the white walls? Smoking dope again? 🤔

Flat rate mechanics back then made about .35 cents an hour………..

Interesting subject. In my home up north, I run "old green" and down here in Florida I run cutting oil. That said, I replaced an Auburn head with a new one in 2015, in 2017 the new head rotted out and needed to be replaced.........since there were multiple people making them, I went to a different supplier, and the head has ben fine since with old green. I put a spare head on the shelf. As far as the Packard 12 covers.....if you have a car, buy one for the shelf. Don't assume it will always be available. I have two in stock for our cars. Parts that were easily available are now running out and not being made again.........smart move is to inventory what you need for the next 30 years.

Interestingly I have been to two Buick National Meets over the years.......while driving my way to the Pierce Arrow Society National Meet! I am trying to be in the area this year as the Packard/CCCA guys have a national meet close by the same weekend. Probably will wait to see the weather just a few days out before I commit.

Xander.....Yup.......but there are a lot of late series 16's with 8's in them. Probably a better choice.........but at a reasonable price someone will want it. Probably the most difficult 30's engine to get any parts for.

Last week in Massachusetts it was snowing in the morning, and took the 1917 White out for a spin in 33 degree weather. Started right up and ran fine.......

Drive what you like.....FTW! I have no issues with a four or six in a car..........as long as it's POST WAR.

Be sure to install the electric pump correctly. Do NOT hook it up to the ignition switch or circuit. Also, use a low pressure Carter pump that is 6 volts, and install a GOOD pressure regulator to bring it down to 1 1/2 psi. I usually install a gauge on the regulator so I can adjust it on the side of the road with confidence.

Well....it certainly has value. Probably even 10k in its current condition. I have several friends close by to it if someone needs help with it.

Drove the late model V-16 150 miles over the weekend. On interstate 95 at 75 mph it averaged 4.2 mpg. On surface roads about 5.8

You can easily water jet new shims for the box if needed. You can see why I recommend to pull the box and clean it before you attempt to adjust it. Ross made good stuff........properly restored it should steer easy.

It’s normal on almost all closed cars to have to drop the box out the bottom…….so it’s a four post lift or some very tall jack stands. The reason I said pull it first before you do adjustments…….we did steering boxes as a specialty……even made one once. I have found most every car that has sat as a barn find or in a garage for decades has a dry box……and many get driven dry for years damaging the races or bushings. Simply, after 50-100 years, every box need to come out and be inspected on a bench. And like most things in this world, if it was easy it would have been done already. In my last three early cars we didn’t even try steering them with a tow rope……just took the boxes out and did them as PM.

Mostly Bugatti Type 57SC and some other applications........but yes, we do a bunch of Pierce carbs also.

The stuff we use is given to us as a favor/trade for fixing a big shot's car from the company. They make all sorts of stuff, and they also do zinc chromate on our Stromberg carb bodies..........they only give us enough to do what we need, and we return the old chemical when it slows down, and get a new two quarts. Comes in a wax lined glass bottle. So whatever it is will eat glass and cement. As you can see, it works fantastic. Photo is a used carb body treated by them.

I understand......that's what it says on the label.

We use brass optical brightener sold to industry but you have to have a hazmat number to purchase it. I have zero clue what is in it. Certainly some acid but carburetor parts come out like new. It’s nasty stuff. These are 80 year old used Stromberg parts dipped in the brass optical brightener. Nothing was done to them except being dipped in the chemical. It turns from yellow to green as you use it.

Interesting.......I would NEVER lift any pre war car up on an offset two post lift...........and they are doing it at a teaching institution. Pre war cars have very flexible frames, and damage to body and doors is very easy to occur. Also, weight ballance and uneven frame perch mounts can cause the car to come down or shift. Look at the great restoration shops that do pre war stuff.......NONE of them use a two post offset lift. PS- Love the car. And surprised it had juice brakes.

Pull the box out of the car. Drain the box, and flush it out. Then you can inspect and adjust it on the bench. I do not consider any box adjustiable in the car. Figure it has been run dry........too many old cars drive like crap because no one ever digs into he box correctly. With semi fluid grease in the box, which is what it calls for, its almost impossible to set it up correctly any other way, and after 100 years, it needs to come out and get inspected. Ross is a great box.......