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chistech last won the day on March 27

chistech had the most liked content!

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About chistech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!

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  1. I think the move away from wood and varnish was just as much driven by the depression and economy. They cost more to produce all around as simply applying paint over an entire assembly is just much more cost effective. Then by 35-36, the move completely away from wood pretty much sealed the deal. The depression cost us most the chrome too and many cars became more utilitarian.
  2. Good eye, it is a Lester. 32’ Olds also had a WW option and most of their 32’ advertisements show the cars with them. There is 14 coats of Pettit spar varnish on the wheels also. A ton of work but definitely worth it as the wheels are a focal point of the car.
  3. This is a 32’ Olds wheel and varnished was an option in 32’.
  4. Glad to see your back posting Steve, was curious how your car was coming along.
  5. I believe 8 amps is max recommended. Not sure if you can even get 16 but maybe. My Chevy is just under 8 before the Peterson regulator I installed and my Olds is about 8.3 which is the lowest setting I can get it to.
  6. This 35’ engine I put back in the pickup frame was doing the same thing. Rechecked timing and adjusted it about 11-12 degrees advanced at idle, 2 degrees above the normal ten. Also, the 35’ has a vacuum advance and this one wasn’t working right, the plate was bound up. Check your distributor and the weights below the point plate. Make sure they are free to swing out properly. When accelerating, try covering the mouth of the carb some and see if the sputtering goes away.
  7. Joe is smart, only gets distracted by cars, and stays away from the other distraction!😏
  8. Do not tighten the two manifolds together on the bench. Put the bolts in just snug and mount the manifold to the engine without gaskets. Tighten the manifold to engine bolts lightly and check for any gaps. Make sure the three bolts connecting the two manifolds together are loose enough to allow for movement. If all looks good, tighten manifold to engine a little tighter, then tighten the three bolts holding the manifolds together. Re move the assembly and reinstall with manifold gaskets. I usually have the manifold planed after having them apart.
  9. chistech

    29 chevy

    The date codes out at August 7th, 1928. Your block number shows it’s a 29’. Your engine is a very early 29’ , 6 cylinder and most likely has the crank case vent on the drivers side of the block just in from of the bell housing and below the water jacket area.
  10. Was the motor cold or hot? Curious if the mani is getting hot and then leaking.
  11. That’s what it sounds like to me. Got to get those fixed. If you can get a vac gauge, hook it up to the wiper vac port in the intake and check again by spraying those two spots. The gauge should show a definitive reaction. I also believe you should have at least 15” vacuum at idle and around 17 at 1000 rpms.
  12. Hi dave, my header was a recreation by Bill Cartwright at KC Wood. I believe it’s one of his most expensive pieces as it’s pretty complex in nature. As good as his was, I found some of the inletting on the ends was too deep and if you close in some pictures, you can see wedge shaped pieces of ash that I glued in to level the ends to the correct depth. I never let bill know and totally forgot about it until looking at these pics. I will give him a call and let him know his pattern is slightly off and he needs to fix it. Of course these pics are of my 32’ Olds DCR but the roof, right down t
  13. When you accelerate it sounds like it’s got a lean bog. Spray some WD 40 around the manifold and see if there’s any RPM change. Cover your carb slightly as you accelerate and see if it responds better.
  14. Hi dave, if I remember right, both the front edge and rear edge have nail holes for tacking to the wood. The front edge gets a windlace nailed on the front side even with the metal and then the rear gets covered with a piece of interior chip board covered with cloth. Here’s some pictures, I hope they help.
  15. Ordered a new valve cover gasket, valve cover grommets, an exhaust donut, and a new set of wires from the filling station. Those came I so they got installed on the engine. Bead blasted the speedo cable, light switch, dimmer switch, and inner dash panel. Primed and paint up the panel with detail gray. Cleaned up the gauges and installed them along with the light switch in the dash panel. Ran the wiring harness down the frame, connected the brake light switch, the dimmer switch, main light switch, and ran the hot common to the proper gauge posts. Connected all the other harness wires to their p
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