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chistech last won the day on December 23 2018

chistech had the most liked content!

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About chistech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!


  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. Few more pictures. Because I had a few questions about the shock handle on the dash, I thought the pictures would help people understand how it’s setup. The down rods are attached to bell cranks that move both the front and rear shock valves at the same time.
  2. Didn’t work on the windshield or header today but decided to work under the dash. Finished bending the oil pressure line to the shape of the cowl trough leaving 14” of oil line on the engine side of the firewall. (Got the measurements on the lines from my buddy Joe) Installed the oil pressure/water temp gauge in my spare gauge frame and connected the oil pressure line to make sure I had enough length to connect it. Unrolled the temp probe off the back of my rebuilt water temperature gauge and ran the line two the back of the firewall, again following the trough but down the drivers side and out through the cowl leaving 12” of probe on the engine side. Then bent over the retaining tabs in each trough to hold the wiring and all tubing in place. With the help of my wife, I installed the cowl insulation pad using 1/4 dowels as guide pins. Making sure it fit correctly, I then put the firewall pad board in place over the insulation and one by one, we installed the original fasteners which are actually large head paper fasteners. I would push the through from the inside and while holding pressure on the head, my wife would bend over each leg. Once all ten fasteners were in, I installed my Harrison Senior heater in the hole I had already drilled based on the Olds technical bulletin. Got that bolted down tight and put on the decarbonizer button escutcheon plate under the heater. To put the insulation pad and board in, I had to pull the shock control handle back as it goes through the pad. Pushed the handle back through the pad and installed the cotter pin which holds pressure on the friction spring behind the dash. All the work under the dash took a ton of time today but it came out good. Still need to secure up the electronic directional box than I had wired in as part of my new harness and make up a mount for the two way, momentary switch. I’ll be mounting the switch just out of sight under the left of the dash but assessable with my left hand to facilitate operation while driving. I installed the engine side of the cowl shock linkage on the end of the dash control rod and the passenger side pivot pin. With the linkage in place, it’s easyto see how critical the location of the heater is. The water lines and mounting bolts just clear the decarbonizer and shock control rods. Ends up being a pretty tidy package.
  3. Finished up the drivers side rear quarter upholstery then made up golf bag door inner framework upholstery from paper patterns made from some original upholstery and sent to me by my buddy Joe. Traced the patterns onto interior fiber board, then using upholstery adhesive, attached some vinyl to the fiber board, and glued down the edges. Installed the two pieces around the GB door. Started prepping the windshield header for installation of the interior pieces by nailing the center metal section on both edges and installing all screws in the header end brackets. Installed the header on the windshield frame to find the DS wouldn’t go all the way down on the windshield post. Turns out the wood was not routered down deep enough so using a proper diameter Forster bit, drilled the hole slightly deeper so itnow sit down correctly on the WS frame. Tomorrow I’ll apply the interior and exterior lacing to the header along with the rear face, bow drill cloth covered fiber board. Had a new windshield glass made up at the glazier and will try and install it tomorrow if I have time. Installed the chrome T bolt escutcheon plates that I had cast up a while back. Most these escutcheons are missing for some reason and no one repops them so I had to make a pattern up and have them cast.
  4. Couple more pictures. You can see the rivet head in one picture. Makes a ton of sense why they used the rivet and washer method. Also installed the quarter filler strip that covers the 2” wide vertical parcel try support. Unseen in the picture is the back of this vertical support also has a finished panel tacked to it as it’s easily in open view when the golf bag door is open.
  5. Continued working on the interior rear quarter sections. Found both latch pillar windlaces were sewn incorrectly and I had to remove the latch area filler panel (extra material sewn to the windlace in the latch area). I used upholstery adhesive to apply the double thickness of material in the right area on the windlace. Because the Cabriolet latch pillar windlace is finished end sewn on the top end, there is only one position the windlace can be put in unlike the closed cars where both ends are open and there is no defined end on which you have to start. This is the first Cabriolet I’ve upholstered and it’s little things like this where I would work with Lebarron Bonney in the past to correct them for future kits. I do at least have to say I’m lucky I got my kit as it was finished about two months before they closed. I ended up getting the whole passenger side in tonight after work. Will work on the drivers tomorrow. One small piece of my research on my car showed a washer held in place with a split rivet at the top of the latch pillar cover on each side. Every other Cabriolet I’ve looked at has had screws in this location as the interior instructions suggest. I realized my split rivet and washers were without doubt, the original fasteners used to secure the quarter panel upholstery to the top of the pillar post cover. Because the bow irons are so close to the socket sides, using a screw and nut doesn’t leave much room to clear the iron. Putting the split rivet from the inside of the socket leaves plenty of clearance from the rivet head. I used my original washers, polished up by my neighbor, with new nickeled rivets.
  6. Finished trimming up the side pieces for the hinge sockets then reglued the vinyl down on the pieces. Fit everything in and bolted down the hinge frames. Had to trim some of the wood on the sides of the new pillars I had made because things were fitting too tight. With the hinges in place and the sockets all set, I started on the bows. Turned the rear bow cloth covers inside out as they come in the Hampton Coach kit as sewn the the hem to the outside. Turning them opposite puts the hem to the inside and smooths the covers on the bow. The covers get slipped on from each end over the bow iron until the cover snugs up tight against the bow. The seam is positioned to the outside edge of the bow and each cover gets stapled on with the center joint overlapping. The mid bow gets two bow drill covered cardboard ends and two across the top. All gets trimmed and the tacked down. I installed the two wedges of rubber I made a mold for a while back and the two thin rubber bow bottom plates. Assembled the bows onto the hinges and all is good. Now the rear quarter interior pieces can be fitted, the inner socket covers glued to the quarter top flaps, then the quarters tacked in.
  7. Today, my shops install roofs with the “hidem” cloth edging. That Buick should really have the aluminum roof moldings. Every customer I’ve restored a car for has opted for the moldings instead of the hidem. Much more correct and nicer looking.
  8. I made a similar statement a while back as I’ve seen many restoring cars that will pass on a critical part because they feel the price is too high and that part is keeping them from finishing their project so they can enjoy it. Now I realize some parts are price by some way too high but the example was a 35’ Chevy engine I believe. The buyer needed an engine, the seller had a good running one complete with manifolds, carb, starter, electrolock, and trans for $600. The sticking point was the engine needed to be freighted and the cost of the freight. Shipping a palletized engine is not that expensive and even if it was $600, for $1,200, the buyer would have that critical part with all the extras. My point is that $1,200 really that much that someone would pass and try to find something cheaper which could take years? Doesn’t make sense to me. While I enjoy restoring my cars and that journey, I much rather have it done and driving. The restoration process takes long enough on its own never mind extending the process looking for the next deal.
  9. Installed the parcel tray upholstery tonight. Because of the way the tray gets covered and the layers of material get applied. My newly made tray front board needed both end trimmed very slightly and it’s thickness needed about a 1/16 planed off the back side. Once that was done, it fit in perfectly with its covering. Need to start covering the top bows now then installing them as nothing else can be installed until they are in place. There are small interior pieces that have to be added to the sockets where the hinges of the bows get mounted. Lots of fine trimming, regluing, and fitting work in this area.
  10. Started doing some small things that I can do to keep moving forward. Until the painting is done on the Olds parts, the booth stays up limiting my ability to work on my customers truck and setting the Olds body on the chassis. Hopefully the painting will be done in a weeks time. Installed the three rear deck roof supports with thin rubber washers. Reinstalled the golf bag door lock and installed the doors interior panel. Just about have the firewall all squared away on the inside so I can install the firewall padding and panel.
  11. Gilly and his brother bob came today to sand and buff the body. It’s really hard to see much difference in the pictures but I can just say, wow, it really looks good now. Gilly is scheduled to come tomorrow to paint and clear all remaining parts but his mom is not doing well and is in the hospital. Family comes first so I’m not sure what tomorrow holds.
  12. Just a quick question. Are there teeth on the ring gear where the motor is stopped? I’ve seen that before. The linkage should move the gear assembly in all the way just as contact is made on the starter button mounted on the started. Is that raven correctly moving all the way? If you had the starter out and the gear assembly spins when you powered it up, we’re you holding the linkage fork back to force the gear to the tip of the starter? Did you try having someone put a piece of wood on the gears while you applied power to see if the gear is simply turning because there’s no load on them? The starter armature shaft have a groove in it and the gear assembly has a molded in key that keeps the shaft from spinning inside the assembly. The key could be sheared off. The L38 starter is not much different than the F32 starter of my car. The starter pedal spring is also crucial to pull the gear assembly out of the ring gear as pressure is taken off the pedal. Without the spring, the weight of the pedal alone will keep the starter gear engaged.