chistech

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chistech last won the day on December 23 2018

chistech had the most liked content!

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About chistech

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!

Converted

  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. In the middle of working on my car, a customers truck, and my regular job, my wife and I are planning the remodeling our kitchen. New tile floor, new countertops, new sink, new backsplash, and walls getting painted. I need to start on it but we have football parties because we’re patriots fans. Had to hold off pulling tile up last weekend when they played the chargers and held off this weekend for the game with the he chiefs. So now they won again. Not sure if I can’t wait another two weeks to start pulling the kitchen apart. Those damn Pats with their washed up old quarterback!😀
  2. The front fenders, splash aprons, rear apron and radiator apron got loaded in my enclosed trailer today for an appointment with paint booth on Monday! Getting closer. Got notified by Hampton Coach that my roof is done so will probably be making a trip up next week to get all my items. Only piece I don’t have of my car is my chrome instrument panel. That’s at the Finishing Touch in Chicago but they tell me they should be done with it by April the latest. I might actually be able to make my end of May deadline.
  3. chistech

    REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION

    I’ve stick mig welded since I was a kid. Learned to tig on stainless back in the mid nineties then never tigged again. When I started restoring my 32’ Olds I realized tig would be better for the long (4’) welds on sheet metal that I needed to do so I priced out the job. I got quoted by three different shops “around $500 to do the total of 8’ of weld. I decided to look at buying my own Tig welder, started reading reviews, and the general consensus among all reviewers is the AHP gives the best bang for the buck. I bought one with warranty for $670 and haven’t looked back. What a great running welder. It took a little while for it to come back but in no time I was welding with absolutely no burn through and virtually very little grinding necessary. I’ve done so many jobs with it now it’s easily paid for itself and I’m on my second small bottle of argon. It does a much cleaner job than the mig and once you get used to feeding or dabbing in rod, you’re welding just about anything you want. One thing is you need a high range lense on your helmet kas the intensity of the arc is very bright. I prefer auto darkening lenses and you have to purchase a high end helmet if you want that. The cheaper auto helmets good for stick or mig will leave you with a case of “sand” eyes pretty quickly.
  4. chistech

    Base Coat / Clear Coat

    When I discussed painting my Olds with my first painter he said exactly this. He said adding color to the clear would make it a deeper look rather than just a shiny surface on the color. He also said doing that makes a chip less of an issue. My chassis was painted with single stage because the chassis is subject to more road abuse than the body.
  5. chistech

    28 olds coupe

    Nice car and congrats on the purchase. Dropping the oil pan is always a good idea and changing all the fluids. The 28’ is quite a bit different than my 32’ yet similar in others. It would be a good idea to check your rod bearings. If they are original they have probably disintegrated as this seems to be the norm with the Olds of that era. When you pull the cap it will show immediately if they’re bad. If the motor has some miles and has been at least re-rodded, you may be in luck. Luckily it seems Olds used a different Babbitt on the mains as most find the mains in perfect condition. The locks on the golf bag door are also suspect for deterioration and impossible to find. If yours is good you’re lucky. Olds parts are difficult to find for olds but there are enough guys out there that will help. Join the NAOC and send emails to all the 28’ owners. That’s what I did and I found a couple of guys to help me with one of them really helping a lot. We’re now great friends. Another thing, your car seems correct with no interior panels in the trunk area. Business coupes didn’t have them.
  6. Yes, that is the story that’s told and joe is also correct that the shot was kept in wood racks along the insides of the ships. It is more believed that the reference is a late 18th, early 19th century American mixture of crossing extreme cold temps with the young powder monkeys, then dropping the shot with frigid hands, and the other statement of “ as cold as a witches tit in a brass bra”. It’s believed to be a compilation of all that. So basically, no one really knows where it came from!😂
  7. The saying comes from the days of sailing warships. A brass tray would hold a pyramid stack of cannon balls next to a cannon on a ship. That brass tray was called a monkey and when the weather was cold enough, the tray would contract enough and the stack of cannon balls would fall off the tray.
  8. chistech

    1935-36 Chevy Master ring gear

    Thanks. The guys on the VCCA gave me his name but spelled it wrong and wrong phone originally. One member posted last night the same info you did. Thanks for the reply. I'm going to call him today.
  9. chistech

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    My own Logan lathe was given to me and was also found in a garage by a friend hired to do a clean up. It was in cleaner shape than yours and has a quick change but runs the exact same drive system with a motor pulley to jackshaft pulley to flat leather belt. I’ve been loving it ever since I got it. Picked a nice Alliant vertical mill with all the essentand a ton of tooling for $1,750 including a 5hp phase converter. They can be found out there for the right kind of money. In that box along with those feed screw gears are some guards for the belt drives. I see a face plate and other things in that box. It’s a goldmine of parts.
  10. chistech

    1935-36 Chevy Master ring gear

    Looking for a 132 tooth ring gear or flywheel with a very good ring gear for a 35-36 Chevy 207 master.
  11. chistech

    REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION

    I have to agree, leave the holes no matter if you use the aprons or not.
  12. Going through all the small detail parts and checking everything for fit before paint gets applied. My two spare tire locks, another factory supplied part that came with the deluxe option car, were both on my car. It’s made up of a formed steel lower metal bracket and a upper white metal casting that holds the lock mechanism. My white metal housings had a smooth finish but were dark and cloudy looking. I believe the housings might have been painted yet mine didn’t have any paint on them. I took them over to my neighbors and see if they’d polish up. Turns out the white metal, or whatever type of metal it is, polished up like chrome. They’re going to stay just as you see them. i also fit my windshield frame and lower gasket one more time to the cowl. The difference this time is I bolted it all down tight making sure it sat down correctly all along the cowl and new gasket. Alls good so off it came.
  13. Railroad cars with wood frames used tie rods with block standoff’s much like this to support the wood frames on the early wood cars.a
  14. Thanks John, I feel the same way. Now because it’s so close to the painting, it seems like progress has slowed way down and we’re not getting anywhere but that’s really not the case, it just feels that way. It’s like it’s never going to get there sometimes! What’s really neat is those who have followed its journey on this thread will soon see it finished and they know all the steps it went through to get there. Most have been along for the entire ride with me and I really appreciate the help, comments, motivation, and the thumbs up I’ve gotten. I’m still shooting for sometime in May to have it done. Gilly told me he’s going to be coming more often so he can help me reach that deadline. I’ve lined up some extra hands when assembly time comes as they will be needed. It’s funny how guys like to stop by and see the progress but have now offered to help in those last few weeks. I think everyone wants to finally see it done. LOL
  15. Another issue was with just one fender. The front fenders have a small inner fender panel at the very front inside in the area of the headlight cross bar bolts down to the chassis rail. No one really knows why this small panel is there. On my drivers fender, it appears that the small panel suffered some hanger rash at one time putting a decent kink that needed to be taken out. The inner panel was held to the fender with four areas of braze along the bottom of the front fender edge bead. Using a dremel thin cutoff wheel, I cut through the braze to remove the panel. Incredibly, when the panel came out exposing a lightly oversprayed original fender surface, there was virtually no real rust to be found on 87 year old fenders. A couple tiny areas but that was it. I tin knocked out the crease and.ground off all the braze. I used my blast cabinet to freshen the metal to take the etch primer then primed it and the fender. Next night both got red padded and sprayed gloss black. Next night had me tig welding in the panel. Now just some touch up body work and this fender will be done too. Supposed to shoot color on the front fenders and both front and rear aprons.