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chistech last won the day on January 12

chistech had the most liked content!

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About chistech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!


  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. Well, when I first saw you had the motor finally back, I figured no trip of the two Italian guys to the machine shop necessary and almost sent John an email saying so. Then I read a following post about the wrong tag and figured maybe the trip was back on! Then I read another post about the correct tag being found and the shop coming to install it on your motor, trip cancelled again. THEN, I read more posts about the lack of attention to detail by the shop and figure,,,,,TRIPS BACK ON!😂😂 Great to hear you’re pretty much squared away now. As most know, I’ve been through those same type of emotional ups and downs with painters and it can really wear on us. With me, trying to get a few things done by others has gotten so difficult and it put such a bad taste in my mouth that I’m giving up restoring cars once I’m done with the 34’ pickup and 30’ 4dr. I’ve had enough aggravation from others to last me a lifetime. I’m going to enjoy driving and showing my cars and work on my RC planes and G scale trains while I move more into my golden years.
  2. Yes. Stripped the paint off the steel first, then bead blasted the rims. All the steel got etched primed. Then the paint on the wood got scraped off with cabinet scrapers finishing off with dental picks to remove any paint in the grain. Wood was lightly sanded then all were bleached with oxcylic acid remove any iron stains. Wood was then flushed to remove the acid, sanded, stained with a pine tar/kerosene mixture, then 14 coats of Pettits spar varnish was applied with sanding between each coat. Steel was gone over with any pitting filled and sanded being careful not to remove any of the original weld lines or tooling marks. Wheels were primed again. Then wet sanded, masked, painted, masking for center hub and sprocket applied, then painted. Last but not least, pinstriped! (In all honesty, I did leave out a few other steps done in the whole process.) To do them right is a ton of work as you can see. Forgot to add, great truck AND it’s an Oldsmobile!
  3. Well, I really didn’t need more going on with me still doing some finishing touches on the Olds and heavy into the 34’ Chevy pickup but I had this one on the list as the last car I’m doing for a while. The owner is an older gentleman who live close and has already done some excellent work on different parts of the car. Do to some past health issues and his age creeping up, he along with his family decided to send it to me to finish up. There are two bodies and one chassis with one body being bad. The main scope of work will be restoration of the complete drivetrain, some body w/woodwork, fenders, roof with original type aluminum moldings, interior, and general finishing up. I had picked the chassis with bad body up about 6-8 weeks ago and first did a compression check which showed two very low cylinders and a metallic knock when #6 is put under compression so 5he motor will be completely gone through. With our weather yesterday completely unseasonably warm, the day was perfect to unload the car, pull the body, strip it and the chassis of extra parts, then build a dolly to put the body on to go back to the owner. Discovered the chassis has a slight bend down where it arches over the rear axle, of course this will be addressed.I am leaving the chassis outside for one or two rainstorms to hopefully help soften up some of the hard caked up dirt that layers the whole rear of the chassis. That is where this project sits as of right now. I will be working on both Chevys as each one offers its downtime between work.
  4. I was told it is a 37’ axle from the parts yard I got it from. I haven’t checked back with Ray since my first few conversations about this whole conversion. I will double check with both Ray and the parts yard.
  5. Took the 37’ rear mostly apart and I’m summing up the work needed. I opened the boxes of 51’ Chevy 3.55 rear parts I got from a fellow VCCA member. He sent me the ring, pinion, pinion socket, all the spiders, bearings, and the bendix brake parts. I discovered I can’t use the bendix brakes but all the other parts are exactly what was needed. The 37’ rear uses an offset to the centerline, bushed, spring mount where the 34’ uses a rotating mount that encompasses the outside of the axle tube. The 37’ mounts are also set 1 3/4” too wide on each side so will be cut off as they can’t be used anyway. The axle tubes are smaller diameter than the 34’ tubes so my plan is to get the rear housing chucked in a big lathe and turned down round to the width of the 34’ rotating spring mounts. Then, bushings will have to be turned with the inside diameter matching the new diameter of the axle tube and the outside diameter slightly larger than the inside of the rotating spring mount. The bushings will be cut in half then welded to the tube, then the bushing will get turned again down to the diameter of the mounts. There is also a lug that get mounted in the center on top of the bushing to keep the spring mount in place. All this work is just for the spring mounts. The cutting of the driveshaft, torque tube, and all the welding of the pieces is more of the work needed on this conversion.
  6. Drilled out the drain plug rather than risk breaking the fitting free of its solder joint in the bottom of the tank. Ran a tap through it to clean the threads. Knocked out all the rest of the bigger or deeper dents then sandblasted the bottom of the tank in my cabinet. Cleaned the inside of the tank by running a red scuff pad around then blew the tank out. Took the edges around the cut out down to bare metal to prep it for welding. Set up my tig and started to tack the panel in places. I was having lots of trouble because my helmet’s self darkening lense was not working correctly and I couldn’t see the end of the electrode or placement of my fill rod. All I could see was a big green ball as the arc was just to bright. I ended up using my brothers helmet and a MiG welder. Welding in small 3/4” runs, i alternated areas to keep any warping to a minimum. Once all the welding was done, I ground all the welds down, screwed a air fitting into the bottom plug hole, put a spare gas cap on the filler neck, and attached the air hose regulated down to 7-8lbs. The gas cap leaked some so there was just the right amount pressure for leak testing the welds. Using a spray bottle of simple green, I sprayed all along the weld line finding about 10 tiny leaks. Some touch up welding, more grinding, more testing, some additional spot welding, and the tank was leak free. Because of the heat generated from the welding, the seam actually pulled down some which worked to my advantage. I put strips of masking tape on both sides of the welded line then applied JB weld with a body filler spreader. Once fully cured, it will get a light, fine sanding. The JB weld will help seal any leaks if there is any and the JB is resistant to gasoline so it’s a perfect material to finish off the job. I will start skimming the bottom of the tank with filler then sanding it out to get it smooth. It’s coming along. More to come.
  7. I drove up to Syracuse NY this past week to pick up some 32’ Olds parts for myself and my buddy Joe. A guy in IN was parting out a 32’ 4dr and I purchased the radiator, the fuel tank, drive shaft, and some other small parts. Joe bought both axles for the brake drums basically. Because of the issues I’ve been having with my radiator and the few dents in my fuel tank (some of the points deducted at the Hershey show) I purchased both in anticipation they would solve them. Well I scoped the inside of the radiator and it looks exceptionally clean so I’ll give it a soak with the Evaporust then check it for flow. Once I do that I’ll take it to the radiator shop to be pressure tested and looked over for any issues. The fuel tank while exceptionally solid had a long crease along the entire back edge and one smaller crease on the bottom along one side. I decided to cut three side of a square on the top of the tank so I could lift up the panel enough to get inside with a hammer or dolly depending on how I might need to work it. Using a fine cutting wheel on the Drexel, I made three plunge cuts on each of the lines I needed to cut then finished them with a reciprocal hack saw. With the nice thin kerf of the hack saw blade, I should be able to tig the panel back fairly easy. At least that’s my hope. I was able to work all the creases and dented areas out fairly easily. The tank is virtually new with the inside having just a lighty dusted area of surface rust. Oh, and there was dead mouse inside! Once I tin knocked it to my satisfaction, I used both my shrinking discs to work the high spots out and I’ve got it just about done. I won’t weld up the tank until all the body work is completely done on the bottom to my satisfaction in case I need to work any part of the tank bottom from the inside. The shiny area on the tank in the second picture was all creased about 3-4” up from the center seam. You can’t even see the crease anymore. In the first picture you can see what little remains of the crease that ran along the bottom of the tank.
  8. Yes, an Oldsmobile. Pretty nice and a fairly uncommon to rare car.
  9. There has been a big push to get away from anything animal related. My family owned and operated a federal inspected slaughter house here in New England. I can still remember the doctors reports coming out that too much red meat was detrimental to health back in the late seventies. Those reports, on their own, had a huge effect on the beef industry of which it’s never fully recovered even after reports in the nineties came out saying the first reports should have said “high fat content red meat” and that lean red meat is actually a good source of protein. It was too late though as the damage had been done. Today it’s the animal rights people and the vegans pushing the rhetoric of less dairy. Vegans push the the plant based milks like soy and almond with the animal rights people pushing how terrible farmers are to cows and how inhumane they cows live. Of course, all facts are exploited for effect and not really facts at all. Other reasons are chemicals taking the place of dairy.or even meat by combining plant based ingredients with the chemicals withthe results being fake products like powdered ice cream concentrates to Burger Kings new vegan beef patty. Thesuper dairy farm along with new preservatives have killed off the smaller dairies by allowing the super farms to exist in places like CA where the weather is moderate all year long, labor is cheap, often with illegals having easy access to the work with state supported asylum laws, and nationwide delivery possible due to chemical preservation. Most people don’t realize milk is not refrigerated in Europe but processed in a foil carton with formaldehyde layered on the top after the carton is filled. This process can preserve the milk for months, warm and on the shelf. Makes you really want to have a glass doesn’t it?? Soon we’ll all be dying even faster with all this “healthily” new way of plant based living the masses are pushing us to.
  10. 1972 Chevy Blazer. Fully loaded with ac and even the optional air tank under the hood. 350-350 auto, 4wd. Forrest green with a white hard top. CST model with chrome bumpers and body side moldings. Would even go with the 4 spd manual trans. Just a little fancier than the one I had as a young man years ago. Still miss that truck a hell of a lot, but don’t miss the ex-wife sitting in it!
  11. I posted with pictures about a very Olds deluxe coupe on your other wanted post. You didn’t even reply?
  12. I have to agree with you John, I don’t think I’ll ever do another set like these but my goal was to be as perfect as possible. Researching as much as I could and finding 100% original, unrestored wheels showed me than so many have restored their own wheels incorrectly and now it’s been accepted as correct. The biggest issue is the pinstripes which are almost always too thick and they’re in the wrong location on the painted sprocket pattern. Where the the confusion comes in is many have used factory drawings or factory pre production photos but when looking at actual production cars, the pinstripes were done quite differently. I have many photos in my OEM documentation folder showing the original production wheels including the single perimeter stripe around the rim. It was found by carefully stripping the layers of paint from the wheel. One layer at at time. The fine 1/16”-1/32” pinstripe was found and photographed by my. I have to admit though, the time spent has proven worth it as the car has shown well and the reaction to the wheels has been overwhelming. I guess you never know, if I had the right “canvas” again, I’d probably do it all over again. Don’t have any documentation photos in my iPad but here are a few of the process of getting my wheels finished.
  13. Man, the shoulder issues seem to be very common amongst us old car guys!
  14. I only have 943 hours in my restoration of my 32’ Olds six wood wheels! Just a little time consuming for sure.
  15. They’re usually the only commodities I can afford!