chistech

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chistech last won the day on December 23 2018

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About chistech

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/28/1961

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Dartmouth, MA
  • Interests:
    Antique cars, hunting, rc planes, garden railroading, black powder rifle making, furniture making, restoration, team roping, horse training, the list goes on!

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  • Biography
    Restored my first vehicle (23' Fort T Huckster) when I was 15, and just finished my second, 83' K5 @ 52

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  1. Yes, that is the story that’s told and joe is also correct that the shot was kept in wood racks along the insides of the ships. It is more believed that the reference is a late 18th, early 19th century American mixture of crossing extreme cold temps with the young powder monkeys, then dropping the shot with frigid hands, and the other statement of “ as cold as a witches tit in a brass bra”. It’s believed to be a compilation of all that. So basically, no one really knows where it came from!😂
  2. The saying comes from the days of sailing warships. A brass tray would hold a pyramid stack of cannon balls next to a cannon on a ship. That brass tray was called a monkey and when the weather was cold enough, the tray would contract enough and the stack of cannon balls would fall off the tray.
  3. chistech

    1935-36 Chevy Master ring gear

    Thanks. The guys on the VCCA gave me his name but spelled it wrong and wrong phone originally. One member posted last night the same info you did. Thanks for the reply. I'm going to call him today.
  4. chistech

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    My own Logan lathe was given to me and was also found in a garage by a friend hired to do a clean up. It was in cleaner shape than yours and has a quick change but runs the exact same drive system with a motor pulley to jackshaft pulley to flat leather belt. I’ve been loving it ever since I got it. Picked a nice Alliant vertical mill with all the essentand a ton of tooling for $1,750 including a 5hp phase converter. They can be found out there for the right kind of money. In that box along with those feed screw gears are some guards for the belt drives. I see a face plate and other things in that box. It’s a goldmine of parts.
  5. chistech

    1935-36 Chevy Master ring gear

    Looking for a 132 tooth ring gear or flywheel with a very good ring gear for a 35-36 Chevy 207 master.
  6. chistech

    REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION

    I have to agree, leave the holes no matter if you use the aprons or not.
  7. Going through all the small detail parts and checking everything for fit before paint gets applied. My two spare tire locks, another factory supplied part that came with the deluxe option car, were both on my car. It’s made up of a formed steel lower metal bracket and a upper white metal casting that holds the lock mechanism. My white metal housings had a smooth finish but were dark and cloudy looking. I believe the housings might have been painted yet mine didn’t have any paint on them. I took them over to my neighbors and see if they’d polish up. Turns out the white metal, or whatever type of metal it is, polished up like chrome. They’re going to stay just as you see them. i also fit my windshield frame and lower gasket one more time to the cowl. The difference this time is I bolted it all down tight making sure it sat down correctly all along the cowl and new gasket. Alls good so off it came.
  8. Railroad cars with wood frames used tie rods with block standoff’s much like this to support the wood frames on the early wood cars.a
  9. Thanks John, I feel the same way. Now because it’s so close to the painting, it seems like progress has slowed way down and we’re not getting anywhere but that’s really not the case, it just feels that way. It’s like it’s never going to get there sometimes! What’s really neat is those who have followed its journey on this thread will soon see it finished and they know all the steps it went through to get there. Most have been along for the entire ride with me and I really appreciate the help, comments, motivation, and the thumbs up I’ve gotten. I’m still shooting for sometime in May to have it done. Gilly told me he’s going to be coming more often so he can help me reach that deadline. I’ve lined up some extra hands when assembly time comes as they will be needed. It’s funny how guys like to stop by and see the progress but have now offered to help in those last few weeks. I think everyone wants to finally see it done. LOL
  10. Another issue was with just one fender. The front fenders have a small inner fender panel at the very front inside in the area of the headlight cross bar bolts down to the chassis rail. No one really knows why this small panel is there. On my drivers fender, it appears that the small panel suffered some hanger rash at one time putting a decent kink that needed to be taken out. The inner panel was held to the fender with four areas of braze along the bottom of the front fender edge bead. Using a dremel thin cutoff wheel, I cut through the braze to remove the panel. Incredibly, when the panel came out exposing a lightly oversprayed original fender surface, there was virtually no real rust to be found on 87 year old fenders. A couple tiny areas but that was it. I tin knocked out the crease and.ground off all the braze. I used my blast cabinet to freshen the metal to take the etch primer then primed it and the fender. Next night both got red padded and sprayed gloss black. Next night had me tig welding in the panel. Now just some touch up body work and this fender will be done too. Supposed to shoot color on the front fenders and both front and rear aprons.
  11. Been working with Gilly to get the front fenders ready for paint. Found a couple of issues that needed attention. One was the screw holes at the front of each fender had been repaired from most likely having the slotted 5/16 x18” oval head screws pulled through at one time which was very common with the 32’ Olds. Each hole had a washer brazed to the bottom to sure up the thin fender. These holes and washers needed to be countersunk enough to allow the oval head screw to fit flush as intended. The other three holes in the fenders have stamped in finishing washers to prevent the bolts from pulling through and they’re all in perfect condition. Many who restore 32’ Olds use polished SS screws and SS finishing washers on the two front holes but all that is incorrect, all hardware should be plain steel and painted.( I was fortunate that all the original fender mounting hardware was with my car when I purchased it. When the fenders were removed many years ago, all the hardware was removed and red oxide primed, the put in a coffee can. Every single nut, bolt, and washer, including the special shaped rear fender washers were in that can with not one of any needed fastener missing! Even all the rubber washers and fender/body mounting pads were there! Pretty amazing. Using one of the oval head screws, I counter sunk each front hole in the fenders deep enough for the head to mount flush as intended. There was enough braze in each hole to allow for opening up the countersink and allowing the washer to stay brazed to the fender. The extra thickness of the washer really surges up the front hole.
  12. chistech

    help on 1929 dodge brothers doctors coupe

    Had a look on the internet and it appears that’s the way they look. Possibly the grass is helping it look lower.
  13. chistech

    help on 1929 dodge brothers doctors coupe

    The look of that car strikes me odd. It looks lowered to me. I don’t know the DB models so I’m just stating the impression I get from the photos. The tires almost look too close to the fenders too but I’m probably wrong.
  14. I might have a line on a 30 dodge for a very reasonable price. A friend had it and it didn’t need much. Interior was redone and perfect but not sure if absolutely show correct but it is period correct. Paint was decent other than the hood needed a repaint. Hadn’t run in a while and needed the typical things like brakes and vacuum fuel pump work to get it on the road .
  15. It looks like I might have a 31’ Caddy coming in for some work so I had a couple short messages with Ed about it. He did mention some finicky things and said to contact him if I did end up getting the car. By what I’ve read, heard from Ed, and others, I don’t think the caddy would be a good entry into the 20s-30’s era for the OP. The average everyday man’s car sold back then would fit the bill better, no matter what the make is. Just my opinion.