chistech

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Everything posted by chistech

  1. Purchased this car last year out of what appears to be a long time storage of a large collection of automobiles. With about an hours worth of time I was able to get it up and running and it ran well. I put it back in storage for about 6 months and recently started it's restoration. With a little research done off the sill data plate, I determined that the car was a early manufactured (first week of Feb) 6cyl, 6 wooden wheeled model, with just 249 produced. While it appeared mostly complete, there were some unique parts missing. What was missing was the decarbonizer, the Stromberg automatic choke, the proper air filter, the golf bag door lock, the rumble lid handle, and the rumble seats themselves. While the majority of the missing parts are year specific for the 32-33 model years, the rumble seats and the missing rumble latch are the same as 32' Chevrolet. Turns out the Olds DCR is almost identical in many ways to the 32' Chevrolet Cabriolet. While Olds called this car a "convertible roadster'' it is really a cabriolet with door windows. With the help of three fellow Olds enthusiasts, I've been able to procure all the missing parts but one. That one part was the golf bag door lock which I was just able to get the latch part, including the cam. The lock cylinder and lock tumbler were gone. I made up the missing cylinder with the help of a machinist friend and now have all the parts for my restoration. I will try and post all my progress as I go. First 4 pictures was how it looked when I first bought it. Second 4 show it when I stored it after purchase and quickly put up the roof and some fenders on for a look.
  2. The front fenders, splash aprons, rear apron and radiator apron got loaded in my enclosed trailer today for an appointment with paint booth on Monday! Getting closer. Got notified by Hampton Coach that my roof is done so will probably be making a trip up next week to get all my items. Only piece I don’t have of my car is my chrome instrument panel. That’s at the Finishing Touch in Chicago but they tell me they should be done with it by April the latest. I might actually be able to make my end of May deadline.
  3. chistech

    REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION

    I’ve stick mig welded since I was a kid. Learned to tig on stainless back in the mid nineties then never tigged again. When I started restoring my 32’ Olds I realized tig would be better for the long (4’) welds on sheet metal that I needed to do so I priced out the job. I got quoted by three different shops “around $500 to do the total of 8’ of weld. I decided to look at buying my own Tig welder, started reading reviews, and the general consensus among all reviewers is the AHP gives the best bang for the buck. I bought one with warranty for $670 and haven’t looked back. What a great running welder. It took a little while for it to come back but in no time I was welding with absolutely no burn through and virtually very little grinding necessary. I’ve done so many jobs with it now it’s easily paid for itself and I’m on my second small bottle of argon. It does a much cleaner job than the mig and once you get used to feeding or dabbing in rod, you’re welding just about anything you want. One thing is you need a high range lense on your helmet kas the intensity of the arc is very bright. I prefer auto darkening lenses and you have to purchase a high end helmet if you want that. The cheaper auto helmets good for stick or mig will leave you with a case of “sand” eyes pretty quickly.
  4. chistech

    Base Coat / Clear Coat

    When I discussed painting my Olds with my first painter he said exactly this. He said adding color to the clear would make it a deeper look rather than just a shiny surface on the color. He also said doing that makes a chip less of an issue. My chassis was painted with single stage because the chassis is subject to more road abuse than the body.
  5. chistech

    28 olds coupe

    Nice car and congrats on the purchase. Dropping the oil pan is always a good idea and changing all the fluids. The 28’ is quite a bit different than my 32’ yet similar in others. It would be a good idea to check your rod bearings. If they are original they have probably disintegrated as this seems to be the norm with the Olds of that era. When you pull the cap it will show immediately if they’re bad. If the motor has some miles and has been at least re-rodded, you may be in luck. Luckily it seems Olds used a different Babbitt on the mains as most find the mains in perfect condition. The locks on the golf bag door are also suspect for deterioration and impossible to find. If yours is good you’re lucky. Olds parts are difficult to find for olds but there are enough guys out there that will help. Join the NAOC and send emails to all the 28’ owners. That’s what I did and I found a couple of guys to help me with one of them really helping a lot. We’re now great friends. Another thing, your car seems correct with no interior panels in the trunk area. Business coupes didn’t have them.
  6. Yes, that is the story that’s told and joe is also correct that the shot was kept in wood racks along the insides of the ships. It is more believed that the reference is a late 18th, early 19th century American mixture of crossing extreme cold temps with the young powder monkeys, then dropping the shot with frigid hands, and the other statement of “ as cold as a witches tit in a brass bra”. It’s believed to be a compilation of all that. So basically, no one really knows where it came from!😂
  7. The saying comes from the days of sailing warships. A brass tray would hold a pyramid stack of cannon balls next to a cannon on a ship. That brass tray was called a monkey and when the weather was cold enough, the tray would contract enough and the stack of cannon balls would fall off the tray.
  8. chistech

    1935-36 Chevy Master ring gear

    Thanks. The guys on the VCCA gave me his name but spelled it wrong and wrong phone originally. One member posted last night the same info you did. Thanks for the reply. I'm going to call him today.
  9. chistech

    1935-36 Chevy Master ring gear

    Looking for a 132 tooth ring gear or flywheel with a very good ring gear for a 35-36 Chevy 207 master.
  10. chistech

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    My own Logan lathe was given to me and was also found in a garage by a friend hired to do a clean up. It was in cleaner shape than yours and has a quick change but runs the exact same drive system with a motor pulley to jackshaft pulley to flat leather belt. I’ve been loving it ever since I got it. Picked a nice Alliant vertical mill with all the essentand a ton of tooling for $1,750 including a 5hp phase converter. They can be found out there for the right kind of money. In that box along with those feed screw gears are some guards for the belt drives. I see a face plate and other things in that box. It’s a goldmine of parts.
  11. chistech

    REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION

    I have to agree, leave the holes no matter if you use the aprons or not.
  12. Going through all the small detail parts and checking everything for fit before paint gets applied. My two spare tire locks, another factory supplied part that came with the deluxe option car, were both on my car. It’s made up of a formed steel lower metal bracket and a upper white metal casting that holds the lock mechanism. My white metal housings had a smooth finish but were dark and cloudy looking. I believe the housings might have been painted yet mine didn’t have any paint on them. I took them over to my neighbors and see if they’d polish up. Turns out the white metal, or whatever type of metal it is, polished up like chrome. They’re going to stay just as you see them. i also fit my windshield frame and lower gasket one more time to the cowl. The difference this time is I bolted it all down tight making sure it sat down correctly all along the cowl and new gasket. Alls good so off it came.
  13. Railroad cars with wood frames used tie rods with block standoff’s much like this to support the wood frames on the early wood cars.a
  14. Just thought I’d mention the efforts of those who post detailed restoration threads in this forum. For many, there are hours and hours of research spent on their project then hours and hours of physical work spent. While many understand those parts of a restoration, I don’t believe many realize unless they’ve done it, is the hours spent documenting their work. Many of us enjoy reading, viewing the pictures, and learning from these people, most don’t realize or fully understand the immense effort put in to make those threads so entertaining and informative. Time is spent by stopping ones work to take step by step pictures, more-time spent by recording measurements, readings, etc., Then, when the physical work is done, most relax by going through their daily pictures, notes, and general mental thoughts to prepare their often daily posts. I personally spend hours and hours in my garage though my wife barely complains of being a “garage widow”. What she does complain about is all the time spent on my computer or iPad. She often says “you’d have more things done on your car if you spent less time on the damn forums!” So thinking of what she said I immediately realized that I’m just a small part of all spending the same amount of time posting their work. My hat goes off to those here like Luv2wrench, Mike Macartney, Ron Haussmann, Matt Hinson, Joe Puleo, Hurrst, Rich Bad, Laughiing Coyote, and all the others. This forum is the most enjoyable on the site because of all you.
  15. Thanks John, I feel the same way. Now because it’s so close to the painting, it seems like progress has slowed way down and we’re not getting anywhere but that’s really not the case, it just feels that way. It’s like it’s never going to get there sometimes! What’s really neat is those who have followed its journey on this thread will soon see it finished and they know all the steps it went through to get there. Most have been along for the entire ride with me and I really appreciate the help, comments, motivation, and the thumbs up I’ve gotten. I’m still shooting for sometime in May to have it done. Gilly told me he’s going to be coming more often so he can help me reach that deadline. I’ve lined up some extra hands when assembly time comes as they will be needed. It’s funny how guys like to stop by and see the progress but have now offered to help in those last few weeks. I think everyone wants to finally see it done. LOL
  16. Another issue was with just one fender. The front fenders have a small inner fender panel at the very front inside in the area of the headlight cross bar bolts down to the chassis rail. No one really knows why this small panel is there. On my drivers fender, it appears that the small panel suffered some hanger rash at one time putting a decent kink that needed to be taken out. The inner panel was held to the fender with four areas of braze along the bottom of the front fender edge bead. Using a dremel thin cutoff wheel, I cut through the braze to remove the panel. Incredibly, when the panel came out exposing a lightly oversprayed original fender surface, there was virtually no real rust to be found on 87 year old fenders. A couple tiny areas but that was it. I tin knocked out the crease and.ground off all the braze. I used my blast cabinet to freshen the metal to take the etch primer then primed it and the fender. Next night both got red padded and sprayed gloss black. Next night had me tig welding in the panel. Now just some touch up body work and this fender will be done too. Supposed to shoot color on the front fenders and both front and rear aprons.
  17. Been working with Gilly to get the front fenders ready for paint. Found a couple of issues that needed attention. One was the screw holes at the front of each fender had been repaired from most likely having the slotted 5/16 x18” oval head screws pulled through at one time which was very common with the 32’ Olds. Each hole had a washer brazed to the bottom to sure up the thin fender. These holes and washers needed to be countersunk enough to allow the oval head screw to fit flush as intended. The other three holes in the fenders have stamped in finishing washers to prevent the bolts from pulling through and they’re all in perfect condition. Many who restore 32’ Olds use polished SS screws and SS finishing washers on the two front holes but all that is incorrect, all hardware should be plain steel and painted.( I was fortunate that all the original fender mounting hardware was with my car when I purchased it. When the fenders were removed many years ago, all the hardware was removed and red oxide primed, the put in a coffee can. Every single nut, bolt, and washer, including the special shaped rear fender washers were in that can with not one of any needed fastener missing! Even all the rubber washers and fender/body mounting pads were there! Pretty amazing. Using one of the oval head screws, I counter sunk each front hole in the fenders deep enough for the head to mount flush as intended. There was enough braze in each hole to allow for opening up the countersink and allowing the washer to stay brazed to the fender. The extra thickness of the washer really surges up the front hole.
  18. chistech

    help on 1929 dodge brothers doctors coupe

    Had a look on the internet and it appears that’s the way they look. Possibly the grass is helping it look lower.
  19. chistech

    help on 1929 dodge brothers doctors coupe

    The look of that car strikes me odd. It looks lowered to me. I don’t know the DB models so I’m just stating the impression I get from the photos. The tires almost look too close to the fenders too but I’m probably wrong.
  20. I might have a line on a 30 dodge for a very reasonable price. A friend had it and it didn’t need much. Interior was redone and perfect but not sure if absolutely show correct but it is period correct. Paint was decent other than the hood needed a repaint. Hadn’t run in a while and needed the typical things like brakes and vacuum fuel pump work to get it on the road .
  21. It looks like I might have a 31’ Caddy coming in for some work so I had a couple short messages with Ed about it. He did mention some finicky things and said to contact him if I did end up getting the car. By what I’ve read, heard from Ed, and others, I don’t think the caddy would be a good entry into the 20s-30’s era for the OP. The average everyday man’s car sold back then would fit the bill better, no matter what the make is. Just my opinion.
  22. Walt, Yes, I was aware of the short chassis in 28' being their last but the OP did say late 20's to early 30's cars so a 28' would qualify in my book. I'm really just making a point that a ton of cars in those years had plenty of wood and they are all good cars. There's more than Fords and Budd bodied Dodges to consider. Actually steel was the abnorm, not the norm for those years. Wood always gets a bad rap because of the work to restore one with bad wood and many just can't handle working on them. Once one has been restored, there's literally no issue in most examples. When buying a restored car (wood restored or checked for soundness) there's not much to worry about. In the future, on sites like this, the talk will be about how steel is inferior and stay away from any steel bodied cars because polymer and carbon fiber is the way to go. LOL
  23. Now, if you were fortunate to purchase a 31-32' chevy that has had it's differential gear set changed to a Larry Jackson 3.5 ratio set even that overdrive A would have a hard time cruising with that Chevy all day long.
  24. All three of these brands would have wood framed bodies and the Franklins even used wood on their chassis. Just pointing that out. But again, if the wood is good, it will most likely remain good for todays antique car usage. Because a car has a wood framed body, it shouldn't be disregarded or not recommended as a candidate for the OP's consideration. Hey, Rolls, Pierce Arrow, and Packard used wood longer than GM did and nobody disregards those cars at anytime. I'll take my 32' Olds DCR over any steel framed bodied car in its price and year range any day! Yup, I'm biased!😀
  25. While many of us here Mike do exactly as you say, and won't settle for anything but our best work, there are many these days who are very satisfied with the "good enough" thought process. My dad always said to me it usually takes no more time to do something right than doing it fast with little thought as doing right means you will most likely only do it once. Doing it to just get it done and get it done fast often results in it having to be done again, taking more time than doing it right in the first place. My son is 28, an electrical foreman in a large company, doing HD industrial work in big mills and power plants. I told him exactly what my dad told me and it is how he does his work. This simple work ethic has quickly propelled him within his company to his current position. He tells me how frustrated he is with many who work under him and are in the trade who have the "good enough" attitude as that sort of attitude doesn't cut it when dealing with thousands of volts in an industrial setting. He tells me this is not just with the younger workers but the older guys (my age, my son reminds me of! LOL) that just seem to care less about having pride in their work. I understand the younger workers being that way as many have been raised in the time of everyone gets a trophy and no one stays back in a grade but the older guys shouldn't be that way but they are. Many wonder why other countries manufacturing goods are making better products than those made in the US and simple worker self pride in workmanship is one reason. Not sure how things look over your way but we've been seeing it for years.