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Everything posted by chistech

  1. Jerry, thanks for taking all those pictures. I never got to take many. My car was real dirty, even the inside as your pictures show before how it looked before I got to the inside! When I unloaded it today, it was again full of dust and dirt! While walking around in the chocolate field, I ended up ordering a custom fit, dustless, car cover. Hopefully it will help.
  2. I’ll have to look at the date. Can you direct me to more info?
  3. Me and my buddy Joe Pirrone. Every time I’m trying to find him at Hershey he always tells me to “look down”! His height is a benefit though when going into the Hyman tent🤔 Key chain anyone? (Only those who attend Hershey and have gone into the Hyman tent will know!)
  4. Thanks everyone for all the support and comments throughout my restoration of the Olds. At 9:20 last night at the awards banquet my name got called for confirmation of the Olds getting its first junior. The whole thing was a great and enjoyable experience. Everyone was super hospitable and helpful for this first time shower. Steve M stopped by to see my car offering encouragement and advice. The car drew a pretty fair size audience at times and luckily my buddy Joe was there to help me along with another friend Charlie, clean up a very dirty car I never had time to fully detail before leaving home. I ended up talking and answering so many questions about the car, I felt bad they did most of the cleanup! It was great meeting people who have followed my thread like John, Doug, Dale, Jerry, Bob, and others. I’ve made a ton of great friends in this hobby and my wife even commented on that fact of how everyone is so nice in the antique car world. I have to give her a lot of credit supporting me with this whole adventure often putting up with me not being as attentive to her needs as I should have been at times. I’m sure there’s many of you out there that know exactly what I mean. But hey, I did get that new kitchen in for her!😂 The Olds ran and drove perfectly which helped ease any jitters. I picked Joe up on Hershey Park drive early Saturday morning and he accompanied me to my trailer then we drove in with the car to the show field. It was important to me that he was with me because without his help over the last 3-4 years, I never would have been able to accomplish the level of restoration that I wanted. Joe is a great friend and I’m glad we’re able to work together, though most times long distance, to bring these old cars back to life. There is still some tweaking that I’m planning on this like some small hardware pieces that I need to change and a simple easy mistake that I completely missed like having the weep holes on my tail light lense rims up instead of down (duh!) before I go for my senior. I’m also planning on attending the National Antique Oldsmobile Club national meet being held next June in Lansing, MI. Lansing is the birthplace of this and most Olds so it will be a great homecoming for the car. Here’s some pictures from the show and the “real” trophy. It’s metal and a marble like material. Thanks everyone again and I’ll be back here from time to time posting some updates. Keep an eye out on a new restoration thread on a 34’ Chevy pickup I’ll be documenting from now on. It’s already about half done.
  5. Jerry, great seeing you at Hershey and thanks for the support on the Olds. I would also check the face of your manifold while you got it apart. I always face my manifolds when doing a head or engine over.
  6. Anyone who’s done a long restoration will know and will relate to the picture I took today.
  7. I’ve done both MiG and Tig welding on my cars. While tig welders were very expensive, they are no longer and for the work you are doing, much better than MiG. There can be virtually no grinding necessary nor much or any warping of the metal. I purchased my tig for $730 including a foot pedal control and have never looked back. The guy who did my fine body work told me my welding was better than any he had seen and that most use MiG. The piece you show looks very much like the bottom edge of GM cowls and there are patch panels with the correct shaped molding available. Not sure if they would be exact for your car and might require some massaging like they did on my Olds but still a huge time saver. I believe the company is called American Muscle that makes the patch panels. The pictures show my patch panels that I mig welded in. The running board I tacked with MiG then welded the whole 46” seam with my tig when I got it. Needed almost no filler after some hammer and dolly work. In the bottom picture the running board has been welded about one inch up on the splash apron with the yellow welder in the background. It’s one of the best investments I’ve made for my shop and it has paid for itself already.
  8. Hi George, if you’re there on Saturday, look me up on the show field, I’m in section 20B.
  9. Couple more pictures with one showing the angle sanded on each pedal shaft opening upper edge.
  10. Well the last part went on the car today. The two sample pours arrived and joe had them marked good and better. The tops came out great with the good one having two 3/8” air bubbles in the pedal stop area and the better one having two tiny bubbles in the same area. I figured I’d try installing the good one first in case of a screw up. Using an exacto knife, I cut right along the ribe side for each respective opening using a straight edge. This went fairly easy and it cut extremely clean. I installed it in place and found the tops of the pedal shafts would rub on the top of each opening. The original had angled holes but we didn’t have time to attempt this detail so we installed slightly undersized straight wall plugs. I figured if it was needed, I would just do my best with an exacto knife and trim the opening. Turns out, the formula of urethane that joe is using is very sandable and used the sanding drum on the Drexel to put the opening in. This worked as good as one could want and it is not worth the cost or the effort to change the plugs in the mold. We still have the top edge V groove to machine yet but we have already put provisions in the mold design for it. With the tops of the holes sanded at an angle, our recreation of the pedal pad worked out great and looks original. I’m very happy with the results. The center hole around the steering post is covered with a rubber pad and in my case, the original that came with the car.
  11. On my restoration of my 32’ Olds DCR, I went with wide whites. Part of my reasoning is every single sales factory promo photo shows all the Olds models with them. My car was originally black with a tan/brown whipcord interior and top. While I didn’t go with the whipcord, I stayed with the color combination and used a factory photo for the overall look of the car.
  12. Can anyone tell me how far it is from trailer parking area to the gate at the show field? I’m having a cooling issue that came up with my test drives. Not happy about it right now for sure. I’m good for about 5-6 miles then I have to let it cool down. It’s a problem I’ll adress after the show. Car runs great but I’m getting some blow by in #6 causing me to push out coolant. Car runs great as motor was all redone and I shouldn’t be having this problem.
  13. I realize looking at the pictures that I didn’t get a pic of the striping on the lower body molding which runs from the front of the bottom inside edge of the ear fender all along the body and bottom edge of the hood up to the radiator shell. That stripe really shows off the nice curve of the lower body and how the front fender/running board top edge follows it.
  14. Here are a couple pictures of the molded pedal pad test sample. The back of the pad where the pedal stop flanges bump up against didn’t pour good on this sample but joe drilled 4 small holes around the perimeter of the recess to let the air out and the urethane to flow completely up into the recess. The two sample pads arriving tomorrow were made after the holes were drilled and came out correct.
  15. Few more pictures of the striping. Done by Brian Chairnay, very nice work.
  16. Pinstripes were done yesterday. Really finished off the look of the car. Have the cowl vent door to repaint tomorrow because of a sanding/buffing problem. The pedal pad sample joe poured up from our mold should be here tomorrow from CO also so I can install that.
  17. Hopefully I will make it. I have an issue right now I’m trying to remedy and if all goes well, I will. I will post more after I attempt to fix the issue.
  18. That’s exactly what I thought.
  19. Years back I dug a shallow well for my irrigation system and my well guy gave me a old school pitcher pump to screw onto the pipe/point. He told me to pump the water into five gallon buckets and count how many buckets/gallons I could fill in one minute. When I did it twice, I came up with 17 gallons in a minute and I called him to tell him so. So I put a jet pump on capable of 15 gals per minute and my sprinkler system works great.
  20. Things like this suck. My buddy Joe called me today to tell me he started putting on his rear fenders and noticed something not right with the color compared with the color of the car body. He paints his own car and has a big garage so he paints in one area and leaves the parts in the area. Turns out the paint shop mixed the two batches of paint differently and he didn’t notice because of his body being in another room plus the fluorescent lighting. He had put his front fenders on along with both aprons and never noticed the color differences. Now he has to pull parts off the car and repaint all four fenders, the splash aprons, radiator apron, fuel tank apron, and the luggage rack. He was really upset and depressed when he called and I can’t blame him for being so. It just plain sucks.
  21. Gary, I realized I didn’t answer about your question on the hood prop. Yes, it’s my own design and I fabbed it out of odds and ends of material I had in my shop. I tried for the lowest and cleanest profile I could come up with plus I wanted simple but sturdy. I didn’t draw up and plans just went with the thoughts in my head. Of course, working that way got me into the situation I’ve been in for the last twenty years wife my wife! 😂 Actually, I’m lucky as it’s worked out very well so I’ll keep going with what pops into my head as long as I think it out before I act! The prop doesn’t hook under the bottom edge of the hood because if I went that way with the design, I would have had to put some sort of protection on the tip of the hook. Also, you can see the hooks protruding under the hood edge, where as mine, you can’t, because it hooks on the hood latch rod mechanism on the inside back of the hood. The hook is small and deep so it should be very hard for the hood to ever be knocked free of it which is something we all think about when we have our hoods open. The Olds hood is huge, around 44-46” long I believe, plus it’s very flimsy in its early production years because it lacks a 1/2” angle bracing along the length of the hood doors later production year cars got. With the Olds, you cannot open both sides together either like you can do on other cars. Again, it’s such a big, fragile, and clumsy hood to open without hitting it on any other parts of the car, when it’s open, my main goal was to keep it positively secure. If you want a better idea of the design, I can make up some drawings and post them, just let me know.
  22. Thanks Gary but I’m sure my work is no better than many other cars being shown, it’s mainly that I’ve been documenting my restoration and people have been able to follow along with it. My friend Joe for instance who’s been working on his 32’ Olds sport coupe, has done at least the same level of work but no one has seen it because he does no threads on a forum. I have spoken with the editor of the NAOC magazine about doing a story of our two 32’ Olds, restored at the same time, by two guys who live 1800 miles apart, and who became good friends because of owning their respective cars. Much of what I learned on my Olds came from joe. I am indented to him for teaching me so much and helping reach the level of restoration I was hoping for. I couldn’t have done it without his help and knowledge. To me, that’s what our old car fraternity is about, people helping people out. Examples like JP giving machining tips to MM or vice versa is what it’s about. If there’s something I know and can share my knowledge with someone, I enjoy doing just that like many others do here.
  23. Forgot to mention she is just about fully assembled finally. There are just two chrome fender spears to go on after the pinstripes which are being done Saturday morning at nine. It’s getting its final cleanup and detailing tomorrow by Gilly and his brother then they will be officially done and signed off on it.
  24. Finished up the mold and sent it out to CO so joe can make some pours and send me one. The mold will get some more details added later when we have more time but for now what we have is good enough. Did everything I mentioned in my previous post and I also made up a hood prop assembly. The Olds hood is very big and very flimsy with a really lousy way to hold it open. It has a foot attached to the back edge of the inside of the hood and this foot is put on the cowl lacing when you want to hold it open. A slight gust of wind or a little bump and your hood will come crashing down doing a ton of damage to too many thing. I looked at a few commercial units already made but still thought a better mousetrap could be made. Using some 1/2” aluminum channel, some 1/2-1/8” flat, 5/16 steel hex rod, and some aluminum blocks I made up a unit to work with my Olds. I milled some 7/16” slots in the blocks at 19d to match the diameter and angle of the radiator support rods. I made up blocks to go on the top of the support rod blocks with a 1/2” slot milled to capture the 1/2” aluminum channel and flat stock. I bent up hooks on the ends of the hex stock then drilled/tapped the ends for 6/32 stop screw. Then I milled two .140 x2” long slots in the bottom of the channel. The slots are for the 6/32 screws to travel in and control the movement of the two hexagon hooks. The hood prop is held across the two radiator brace rods and the hooks are pulled out slightly when the hood is lifted. The hooks get attached at the center of the hood rear where the hood latch mechanism is. The hood latch rod sits right in the hexagon hook and securely holds the hood. There is a long piece of flat spring steel stock inside the aluminum channel that I put some small bends in so it applies pressure on the hexagon hooks so they don’t rattle or slide out of the channel when pushed all the way in.