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chistech

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Everything posted by chistech

  1. Installed the front axle with the springs and drums. Installed the rear springs and put the rear banjo in place. Today was sand blast Sunday as I blasted all the brake rods after going through them and finding the best ones as the owner had extras. I removed the adjustable clevis, cleaned up the threads, and straightened all the bent ones. I blasted the steering tube and the oil pan. The owner had painted the oil pan with brushed red oxide primer then the proper dark chevy gray but the thick brush marks didn’t look good compared to what the complete sprayed motor would look like so I removed all the paint and primer. I’ve learned working on so many of these old cars now to never trust a painted oil pan no matter what so I always blast them clean. Sure enough, a typical rust through hole showed up close to the drain plug. I’m sure the owner never saw it and because he didn’t blast it, it didn’t show. Nothing worse than rebuilding a motor and having the oil pan leak after you put it in the car. These old stovebolts leak anyway no matter how good you have them sealed up so any additional ways to leak need to be fixed. Got out the mig welder and welded up the pan. Ground the weld down, sprayed some brake cleaner inside the pan in the area of the hole and checked for any weeping. Took a couple touch ups to the area to seal it. A skim coat of JB weld on the inside just for assurance was added to fill any pitting. It was a small area smaller than a dime. Even though I attached the springs, I have to replace all the spring bolts as they are worn almost half way through. I’m waiting on them from the filling station. This car has to have a ton of miles on it as major components are really worn and I’m systematically replacing them all as a good restoration should do. I took apart the steering box to find the remnants of a bearing cage in the bottom and a badly floating around shaft. It turns out both the upper and lower worm gear bearings have disintegrated and not only have the races worn heavy grooves in the shaft, but the upper and lower bushings has also badly cut into the shaft. I could probably turn the bottom of the shaft and press on a proper diameter steel bushing to repair the bottom but the top of the shaft is constant diameter from the upper mast bearing all the way down to the top worm bearing. I would have to fill the grooves with weld then turn the weld down but that’s a ton of work so finding another box is a much easier and cost effective idea. I have a 31’ box but I’m not sure if it will work in a 30’. I have to do some research and see. I’ll be getting all the blasted pieces to powder tomorrow so I can keep moving forward on this.
  2. Man I love that green! (And I mean the green paint, not green money!🤣)
  3. I use a blow gun with a long piece of plastic hose on the end so I can feed it in a hole. Then you can go deep into the frame or rocker(whatever needs to be blown out) and blow the stuff back towards the hole.
  4. Picked this up from the powder coater and started cleaning up any powder that doesn’t belong like in some of the spring holes. Normally they don’t miss them but they did this time. A simple file or ream run through the hole lightly clears them out. I’ll be completely replacing the rear differential bearings and picked up one of the four I need yesterday. I have to order the others. Had to put the driveshaft on the vertical mill and drill out the rivet that held the pinion gear in the socket. Warmed the socket with a propane torch and it was enough to tap the pinion out. Removed the nut and both bearings then cleaned everything up. Will wait for parts again though. For now I’ll start installing the front a assembly on the frame and the battery box. The powder coat came out really nice. Of course the disadvantage to powder is you can’t fill any of the pitting in the metal and this chassis has a fair amount but it will be covered with a nice durable finish. Besides, if the owner decided to show it the judges no longer climb under your car so seeing the pitting would be very difficult.
  5. As of right now Jerry I’m planning on it. I’ll go for my senior grand National award is my plan.
  6. You must be getting pretty excited knowing you’ll have the old girl on the road soon!
  7. Evidently the Viking was called Herman the German and here is a couple pictures sent to me by my friend chip Boyd.
  8. I know the humidity pains. Up here in the NE it’s bad plus I live 1.5 miles from the ocean. If that isn’t bad enough, it’s south of me so the wind brings the salt spray inland right over me. I can’t bring anything down to bare metal and leave it for more than a day or two before it starts rusting again! You learn to schedule your blasting, sanding, all other prep work, and priming together so you can do one thing right after the other so there’s no time lag. It’s a pain but it’s part of our lives depending on where we all live. Looking goo and it won’t be long before you’re on the road!
  9. Forgot to mention that at the show a gentleman came up to me to discuss how his 31’ chevy cabriolet resembled my Olds. I explained the exact similarities like the windshield framing, roof, and bows. I then showed him the two mirrors I had made for my car and showed him how the are installed and removed, telling him my plan is to machine up more mounting blocks and offer them for sale. He then asked if I’d sell him my set and that he’d come back later near the end of the show. Sure enough he came back and asked me again so I ended up selling my “prototypes” ! Now I have to order more bar stock and start making up more brackets. I’ve gotten about 8-10 people wanting them so it will be a good project to fill in time when waiting for stuff for the other cars I’m working on.
  10. Just got home safe and sound from the National. 28 hours in the truck, 23 driving and 5 napping. Going to bed now as my eyes are burning and my head feels “punky”. Here are a couple pictures. The first National award and the Viking basket.
  11. I think all off us has at least one of those cardboard boxes full of holes and covered with 50+ layers of paint!
  12. This past Wednesday morning my buddy and I headed out for the grand National in new ulm Minnesota. It was a good trip out and we arrived early so we were able to get a good sleep. Viewed the incredible cars in the zenith competition including my friend from the vcca chip Boyd’s 31’ chevy phaeton. John and I cleaned up the Olds on Friday afternoon and Saturday morning we drove onto the field of 140-160 cars, all being extremely nice examples. We were parked right next to another fellow Olds owner and friend Wally with his sweet 31’ business coupe. It was a sunny and hot day but at least it was breezy until just before the shows end when it seemed to get Africa hot because the breeze calmed. I felt bad for a very large imposing man who was walking the show grounds dressed as a Viking as his leather costume had to be like an oven. Towards the end of the show to my surprise, he came up to me and congratulated me as his pick of favorite car of the show and I was presented with a nice care basket filled with local Minnesota fare like wine, beer, granola, German candies, some cookies, a T shirt, a kitchen towel, and last but not least, a plastic Viking helmet! It was a total surprise and really cool. The banquet was held at the fuller building and there was a terrific show put on for us. Later both Wally and myself won our first grand National awards. It was another great show put on by the AACA. I have a few pictures but the WiFi is so bad here they won’t download.
  13. Joe, do you have the contact information?
  14. Those are some of my brothers and some of my quick building ARFs. I have a trailer full of 55-60” size scale warbirds that I built from kits or plans. They are full featured with scale fiberglass and painted finishes along with retracts, flaps, etc. I have over twenty old kits to build yet and not enough years as I also do G scale trains and will be starting on my outside layout once the last car I’m working on is done. Here’s a 9 channel SB-6 dauntless that was the most recent built. Flies with a Saito .80 four stroke. I’m not into electric much, liking the sound and smell of IC engines too much!😄 Also is my Japanese shin den Kai fighter, another highly modified kit built with flaps , retracts, and true to the original, mechanically closing main gear doors, Saito .65 powered. The kingfisher is a brian Taylor designed scratch build with a float designed by charlie smith and scaled down to fit the BT airframe. Saito.80 with on board glow. It’s been flying now for 11 years. All are fiberglass with epoxy paint. No decals, all markings are make from custom cut stencils I make. Each takes an average of 9 months to build in my spare time.
  15. Still addressing the clutch issue on this 34’. The machine shop tested the springs and found them varying in pressure from 80-100lbs in an inch of compression. So we came to the conclusion to just order a set of springs with a rating slightly higher than the 100. What sounds easy is not. Trying to find a source of springs was the first challenge. I decided to call the well known early chevy parts supplier and ordered a $200+ clutch disc. I asked about buying a set of springs and was basically told they will rebuild my pressure plate but NOT sell me springs. I’ve done probably $30k in business with this vendor over the years in my name or the car owners name with all the cars I’ve done and I felt there was no effort to help me out. I then located a clutch and driveline specialty company out it the Midwest and got one of their tech on the phone. Immediately I got the same sort of negative response to just wanting to purchase 9 PP springs and that they too “rebuild them”. He told me he needed mor information like the PPI, length, wire diameter, amount of coils, overall diameter, and type of ends. When I promptly read him all those specs measured with a micrometer and spring gauge he balked again! It seems today people just don’t want to help you. So I asked what if I sent in a spring with its retention cup, could they then match it up with something. Then it seems the light came on and he agreed that would work and if they had springs in stock that would work, they would sell them to me. It’s amazing I had to think of that! Of course if the chevy parts supplier would just sell me a set that use when they rebuild a pressure plate it would make it a lot easier.
  16. Still waiting for things. Powder coater is having trouble getting the high quality powder he uses on my chassis. It seems companies are having a hard time delivering. The machine shop has just started on the head and I dropped off the rebuilt center bearing I got back from Paul’s rod and bearing. They do great work and quick too. I dropped the bearing off over a week ago. I don’t think Paul’s had it two weeks total. The garnishes are at the painter and he has started on them already. He gave me a window of 4-6 months from start to finish with the finish being clear coated and buffed. Going to the grand National show on Wednesday and will be going to pick up the body for this car when I get back so I can start on the wood restoration.
  17. In all honesty, just the meaning of “restoration” varies among people before adding any descriptives. To many, a restoration is getting it mechanically good and cleaned up for the road. Others it means new paint, with some being a rattle can paint job and others, a full fledged expensive one. Some only care how it looks and the mechanics leave a lot to be desired. Putting lipstick on a pig so to say. Everybody’s idea of a restoration is different and one has to determine what it is to them and what they really want. I do a lot of nut and bolt restorations. Blasting and painting all those “wind chimes” is a ton of work but it’s my idea of a full, rotisserie restoration. That’s why it’s always important when purchasing a car that it’s seen by the buyer in person. You can have someone look at it for you and tell you it’s restored and to him it is but it might not be to you.
  18. Looking great Jerry. I always use the copper spray especially on these old engines with low torque values. I’m still waiting on the 30’ engine to get done. Really aggravating.
  19. That toaster oven is a Black and Decker. It belongs in the shop!
  20. That’s why so many of us enjoy Joe’s Mitchell thread. It’s his findings in facts that’s right in our face. Some of us hate the BS some prevalent in today’s society others thrive on it and only want to hear what they want. I’ve done a ton of research on the 32’ Olds model year. I now have many people contact me when wanting information. The other day a guy I’ve been helping told me that I must be wrong because a couple guys out his way told him how it should be. Now of course anyone including me can be wrong but my statements come from actual research and copies on factory bulletins, not hearsay. Too many spread fairytales. If someone needs correct information and I can only assume the answer, I will refer them to someone I believe is the right person. If it was a Mitchell or a difficult machining issue, I would and have recommend Joe. If it was a due se berg or large classic, it would be Ed.
  21. The other day I spotted an add on eBay for a 32’ 6 cylinder Olds motor. Looking at the pictures I could see it had an original and unmolested Stromberg EC-2 carburetor, the Stromberg automatic choke, the wrong but rare 8cyl fuel pump, a correct starter, the wrong generator, a transmission, and a free wheeling unit with its lever. The EC-2 carburetor alone is worth a ton because the top half is the same part used on the auburn 12’s. The fuel pump is another valuable item along with the Stromberg auto choke. I didn’t have a spare motor for my car and probably will never need one but still wanted one for backup. I called the owner and e told me he purchased the motor at a Florida antique auto flea market and was told it was taken out of a restored car in perfect running condition! Ya, we’ve all heard that one before. The pictures told a different story as the motor was painted blue instead of the proper green, it was covered with tons of dirt, and other parts like the carb, manifold, and fuel pump had been sprayed with aluminum paint right over the dirt! Knowing what the rare parts are worth and if the we broken, I could fix them as I had already fixed those same parts on my own car, I made a deal for the motor. I was lucky to find a local guy to me who was going down to Florida with a flatbed truck and he picked it up and delivered it door to door for the right money. After looking the motor over, I found the oil clean, the trans clean with good oil, and all linkages free. I removed the generator and fan unit then pulled the plugs. All were evenly blackened some but nothing real bad. I decided to do a compression test for shits and giggles. Here’s what I got. #1-100, #2-105, #3-105, #4-105, #5-105, #6-100. Holy crap, I didn’t believe it so I did the test again. Same thing. I pulled the top cover off the carburetor bowl and blew it out to get all the dry fuel residue out. I set up a small gravity tank to the carb, watched the float come up then stop. I screwed the cover back down and worked the throttle linkage a couple times to see a nice squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump. Can’t be, can it, I thought. There was a complete set of wires and cap on it along with a coil so I hooked up a battery and turned it over. It fired to life and ran wonderfully. The trans shifted great and the free wheeling unit works as it should. So I guess we can’t always judge a book by it’s obvious cover. Yes I know it doesn’t mean all is completely well and I won’t know that until I go looking deeper but it a good start. Removing the trans I found a fairly new gasket and a sealed front trans bearing telling me that the original had been changed. Overall I took somewhat of a chance but it appears it worked out. I have a spare motor (core) if ever needed.
  22. I’m not that familiar with the heavy chevy trucks but have a few questions. Does the brake cross shaft have levers on each end outside the frame that pulls the front brake cables? I can’t see that detail in the pictures. I haven’t seen the rear brakes set up like that before where a single rod is used and acts like a fulcrum to help rotate the cross shaft. It doesn’t seem like much leverage is applied for the front brakes. Usually the rear brakes work off the ends of the cross shaft like the front brakes, each having their own adjustable rod. Do you have a picture from a manual of the brake rod layout? You could try disengaging the front brake cables and see if the cross shaft rotates as it should while applying brake pedal pressure. You could have frozen brake cables as I’ve seen that before. The square riveted piece, the cross shaft support bearing, to the left of the brake pedal linkage arm should have a flange that’s bolted to the cross member to keep the shaft from bending when the brakes are applied. Is that piece hard mounted?I’ll look and see if I have anything in my books but something seems off at my first glance at your pictures. Did you move the arm on the switch to see if it’s operating the brake lights? I’ve seen those switches needing repairs before too.
  23. What it comes down to with anything from the workplace to running a club event is the 80-20 rule. 20% of the people do at least 80% of the work. Those that we get to help often feel they’re doing a huge amount of work when in fact they have no idea what the core group of people actually does. I look at those who you can get to help, like those ladies checking people in, as they’re better than those who refuse to help at all. Three out of us four siblings are “doers”. My two sisters are always organizing things from VFW events to parade float building for children’s services in New Bedford. I started and ran RC airplane clubs, was the event coordinator, ran team Pennines, team ropings, and barrel racing events. Finding people to dedicate themselves beyond just showing up is very hard. I actually don’t think it has anything to do with age either. My own daughter who’s a very busy veterinarian runs those same sort of horse events that I listed, carrying on what I started. If you’re a “doer”, it’s in your blood and I think you’re probably born with it! The problem is putting up with those who like to be “do-nothings!”
  24. I have to say Joe you and this Mitchell were destined to come together. I doubt anyone else would ever be able to put in the dedication and devotion to quality workmanship that you have. Your thread is like an online course in machining but the subject matter is so interesting there’s no way your “students” would ever get bored or even look away. Of course having met you in person and getting a little tour of your shop is just icing on the cake. Your thread is the first thing I look at each time I come to the forums. “What has joe posted today?”
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