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Everything posted by chistech

  1. Mine started out as a M1009 military blazer so it a 6.2 diesel but with a built 700r 4 speed auto rather than the 3speed so it has overdrive and gets about 24-25mpg. I installed 97’ Tahoe leather front seats plus all options available including tilt wheel, A/C, and cruise as I acquired a Jimmy High Sierra that was all rotted out as a donor truck for all those items. I drive it almost every day and now only has 33k original miles. One of my favorite trucks to drive.
  2. Hey Steve, we have a lot love for the same truck. My 83’ that I rotisserie restored. It has a hard and soft top but Michelle prefers the soft top down.
  3. Steve, it won’t help. I know from experience. I actually used to buy, restore/repair 6x6s and sell them. Back in the 80’s and fuel oil was expensive, everyone here in New England burned wood. Many owned their own land and wanted trucks to get it with. I had an “in” with a military junk yard and he purchased a ton of 51-56’ gmc M135 andM211 6x6 trucks. The 135s were 6 wheeled with one 11x20 ND tire on each hub and the 211 was a 10 wheeler with 10x20s mounted. These particular trucks sold cheap because they were automatic trans and most had no mileage with bad transmissions. These trucks actually used the Oldsmobile 4 speed automatic trans but with a 4 to1 reduction tail housing for low range. Because the trans used a main shaft governor, shifting was based on the input RPM of the shaft. This meant there was no way to prevent up shifts or down shifts and convoy speed was right at the speed the trans would shift from one band to one clutch drum. I learned to make a manual valve body, replace clutches and failed lip seals with new improved ones so I could sell bomb proof all wheel drive trucks with low miles and no rust or rot for cheap money. I sold a ton of them and drove them all over. I literally had people cut me off in intersections all the time like the couldn’t even see me i I couldn’t understand why. I realize is people do see them, they just feel your going slow and they can beat you. There were many times if it wasn’t for six big ass tires and really great brakes, they would have found out different! Sorry for all that useless trivia on army trucks but again, I think it’s pretty cool how they ran an Olds trans in them. Not sure if many also realize that Olds supplied Olds motors for many of their early truck years too, so they already had a long relationship before the army truck era.
  4. Thanks ken, I enjoy the restoration work as much or even slightly more than having the car if you can believe that. Don’t get me wrong, I love the car, but the challenge of getting it to its finish i love too. I think for many of us here it’s a big part of it. Just look at many of the restorations going on and the incredible attention to the details. For-me with the Olds, once I figured out the opportunity I had with it being not only a rare car but a good looking one, it just inspired me to investigate as much as I could about it. Fortunately I hooked up with a guy who has that same sort of passion to do things as they were, whether they could be seen or not, and together we were able to get our two cars probably the most accurate restored examples of our models. My problem is whenever someone meets me and asks me about the Olds they soon learn I talk to much as I ended up storing to many facts in my brain and they just start coming out. It doesn’t take too long before they start hoping someone else will ask me something so they can slip away. Hey, at least I’m willing to admit it! LOL I suppose it’s because I find it pretty cool how many changes the model year had and Olds history I general of being the R&D of GM, which many don’t realize.
  5. Finished up the sills today. Welded two end plates into the ends of the third sill that bolts to the side of the bed and staked the mounting pad in place. Drilled all the holes in the rear main bed sill and made up a captive square nut for the side that was missing. Cut the welds holding the other captive nut to rear sill, blasted it up, then welded both into their respective hole positions. It was a fair amount of work to make up a new captive nut but I’m happy with the results.
  6. Well, as promised, with parts coming in I’m getting back on the 34’. Ordered two new bed cross rails and the rear bed cross sill. None of the sills have any holes drilled in them plus the bed sills are a generic length so they needed to be cut. The bed wood mounting holes are small 3/8” ovals so they were marked out on the sills then the sill was put in the vertical mill. Using a 3/8” end mill is not ideal for drilling a hole but the sills are heavy gauge sheet metal so going slow it was easy to first make a hole then make the hole an oval. The nice thing about the mill is centering one hole centers them all, just loosening the vice and sliding the sill in the vice is all that’s needed. I did use a 1” square length of steel inside the sill so it would prevent the sill from collapsing when I tightened it in the vice. I still feel my mill has been the best single machine purchase I have made as it makes all of this type of work so much easier and faster. With all the holes done in the sills, the mounting block plates were positioned on the flanges, squeezed tightly with my vice, then peened to keep them in the correct position. Once all the sills are finished they will be going for powder coating.
  7. Took the olds for an inspection sticker today. About a 14 mile total drive. Highest the temp goes is 165F. Yes, I'm smiling! Now, hopefully the anxiety will go away driving this car. My head is on a swivel though as it seems no one knows how to stop at a stop sign or red light anymore!
  8. Your rumble seat is missing the right hinge, the lower deck rail wood and that is not the correct cushion. That’s all I can pretty much tell from the picture. Often the rear of rumble seat cars the wood gets rotted and will need to be replaced. This means pulling the sheet metal off and replacing, rebuilding, or repairing the wood body frame. If you look at my 32’ Oldsmobile DCR restoration thread here on the AACA forums, you will see the wood body restoration and the work done in the rumble seat area. It will give you an idea on what it will take to make the seat operational. If you don’t want to do the work, find a hinge, find a way to secure it, and just leave it closed.
  9. Finally, finally, finally, I can relax on my Olds. I put the radiator in yesterday, tightened up the hoses, bottom mounts, and top rods. Based on what happened last time I went no further with reassembly. I filled the radiator up until the water just covered the tops of the tubes as I’ve been told to do and I never had to stop pouring the water in as it went down as fast as I poured it in, something that the other radiator wouldn’t allow. I watched the water come up the top hose through the clear Gano filter I installed which is the right way it should fill up rather than run down from the top tank. So a couple pumps of the gas pedal and a push on the starter pedal and the Olds fired up immediately. Because of the auto choke and special automatic high idle setting featured(all connected to the starter pedal linkage) the engine starts with authority needing to have the idle turned down some right after it starts. It is an incredible starting engine, better than any other old car I’ve ever seen. Well, because of this quick burst of rpm when it starts, I immediately got a ton of air bubbles in my top hose. Slowing the idle down they dissipated but not completely. A rev of the engine and there was a ton of them. OH NO, NOT AGAIN I thought. Please don’t tell me I still had a combustion to coolant leak somewhere in my motor. I started worrying as they wouldn’t stop, only calm down at slow idle but come right back with speed. I shut the car off, went in the house and just tried to forget about it. Later in the night my brother texted me about the 40lb striped bass he caught in the Westport River earlier in the day and I told him what was going on with my car. He said not to worry and he would come over today to look at it with me. When he got here and we fired it up, it continued to exactly the same high rush of bubbles at start up then almost lose them all at low idle. He looked at me and said he didn’t like what he was seeing so we went through a bunch of tests like compression (all were 85-90), pressurizing each piston, and turning it over while rotating spark plugs in and out of cylinders looking for air in the Gano filter to show up but nothing. So we decided to put all the plugs in and put the cap with wires back on. Started the car then took it for a ride. We first went for gas then drove it about 15 miles with the temp only getting above 165 went we purposely stopped on the side of the road to see just how hot it would get. While we still had bubbles as we were driving (the hood was off so we could watch the Gano) the temp went from just under the 180 it finally got to back down to 165. So I mentioned to my brother that we should go back to my garage so I could top of the radiator. His eyes got the size of saucers and he said what do you mean top it off, you didn’t top it off? I said I only filled it to the top of the coils as what was recommended to me by many old car guys. He immediately insisted my problem was air getting trapped in the vertical tubes of the radiator and he bet me that there was nothing wrong with my engine. I should also mention that zero water had been pushed out of the overflow tube either nor was there any leaking anywhere. When we got back to the garage, and with the car running, I pulled the cap, then started adding more water/antifreeze mixture. Well the bubbles and foam started immediately going away and the radiator continued to take more water while ever getting close to the overflow. Now there is only about 1 1/2” from the top of the tubes to the top of the overflow tube so it didn’t seem like it would take that much water but it did and continued to. Within 5-10 minutes of running at a high idle and adding water the air was almost completely gone and the hottest we could get it was 180 in the garage with no hood on and no air movement other than the fan. It ended up taking about 3/4 or slightly more of water and still never pushed any Real water over the overflow. It turns out the new radiator flows so well and the water pump is so efficient that when I would start the engine it would quickly suck the radiator down before the water coming back into the radiator top tank could cover the tubes causing tons of air pockets in the radiator. So I’ll say it again, finally I think I’ve got my cooling issues solved and I can relax!🕺🕺🕺🕺
  10. It was too much for him. He works full time in the trade, is a incredible guitar player who teaches students, and he plays out one or two nights a week normally (of course not during the virus). What he estimated as a time frame easily quadrupled. While it was a learning curve and experiment, I don’t want to go done that path again. The paint added at least an additional 6 months to the restoration bringing it right down to the day before I left for Hershey last year. It not worth the stress relying on someone else these days as 95% of the time, those we rely on in business, will let you down. I hated having to constantly be the guy on the phone calling and saying we have “X” amount of days and “you said you were coming tonight”, so where are you? I normally have the sheet metal ready to go early in my restorations so there is a year or more time for it to be finished. What I can’t understand is the inability of most all shops to get anything done in that time frame. The motor for this truck has been at the machine shop a year last December and this shop used to get me motors in 6 months. They moved and merged with another company and “bingo”, instant time expansion!
  11. Took my radiator to the repair shop a couple days ago and he soldered up the crack while I waited. Put low pressure air to it and found it leaked in multiple places so I left it with him. When I originally left it with him he was ready to move to his new shop and I’m starting to think he might have thought he worked on m6 radiator and didn’t, getting accidentally confused, thinking he had. I went to the shop today with my radiator shell and installed the radiator back into the shell then we leak tested it again. All was good so it came home with me and hopefully I’ll get it installed in the next day or so. He also got my clogged radiator and is going to try Evaporust and back flushing it to see if a good flow can be restored. Hopefully so as that radiator is in super good structural shape with not leaks but lousy flow.
  12. I sent a three vendor shopping list to the owner over a week ago and got confirmation all has been ordered. The door wood kits are on their way along with the bed crossmembers, new fuel tank, and other parts. Unfortunately, some parts are on back order but I should still have enough major pieces to proceed. Machine shop said motor might be done by tomorrow or early next week so I could get working on assembling and painting it all up. You might start seeing a lot of posts with lots of progress if all goes the way I hope. Even got a new paint guy I’m going to be trying out. He’ll be picking up the black parts like fenders, running boards, inner steel door panels, etc., soon and expects to get them done in two weeks. If he gets them done in 6 I’d be estatic but I won’t tell him that. I looked at some of his other work and its impressive so we’ll see how it goes.
  13. Jeff, would you mind pm me with the components you bought for your compressor, you are not the last to the party........that would be me!
  14. Reading through I thought I’d add along with the Merc coming along nicely is I have both the 4” and the 9” shrinking disks. I find the 9” works better as it heats the area faster and more of the high spots at one time. When you spray or wipe with the water the area seems to shrink more evenly. The disadvantage to the big disk is the size of the grinder so the workpiece has to be secured if it’s separated from the car.
  15. So that is my question, does the cam lobes need a different grind depending on which 425 block he has has.
  16. Thanks joe, kind of what I thought, all a bunch of experts in his ear! So one more question, if his block is the 39d or the 45d, it sounds like the cam lobes would be ground differently based on your description or am I reading it wrong and the cams are all the same?
  17. You’re actually better off letting the metal plate sit right on the bevel. Just open the holes for the pin slightly. If the metal is a little closer to the top that’s good plus the screw will contact the metal in the hole which will allow for it to be more secure. Trust me, don’t overthink it. Ask me how I know! LOL. The urethane comes from Specialty Resin and with the printed mold, you might have some release issues because of the “ribbed” texture the process leaves. Our aluminum molds were super smooth and polished but we were also molding much deeper in the mold than you will be.
  18. Hello, trying to help my brother out. He’s been working on his 67’ cutlass that is a street/strip car and is currently rebuilding his motor. While he was at the track this past year he said many guys were asking him if he had the wedge motor and old him the intake plenum angle was different on that motor. (425 only). When I looked it up all I find is a statement that ALL Olds engines were a 90 degree bank angle and the “wedge” term refers to the shallow 6d valve angle in the heads. Putting a angle gauge on his current manifold I got a reading of 45d which makes sense with a 90d bank angle but he’s insisting to me that many guys all asked him the same question and that they were older, knowledgeable Olds racing guys. Of course, I’ve run 6.2 diesels for years with no issues and many miles yet continually have diesel “experts” tell me how bad they are, how they were converted gas engines, made by Detroit diesel, etc., which are totally incorrect statements. So the question is did the 425 engine, my brothers is a toronado, run different angles at the intake plenum angles?
  19. That is the Peterson electronic regulator and mine also works perfectly. It reads the voltage in the battery and maintains the amount of charge it needs while driving. At daytime mine will drop to only a few amps after a long ride and will show about a constant 0 amps at night rather than showing a discharge like a standard generator and cut out. The Peterson regulator still needs a cutout or a diode.
  20. Jerry, don’t have the metal tight on the pins as it won’t release from the mold easily. We put metal into our parts and experimented with different things to get it right. A slightly larger hole will rest on the beveled area of the screw hole pin and will allow for it to separate easier. Joe used two part urethane and the stiffer product he used was called Shore 70. All our we gravity pours and we had few air bubble issues. You will need to really get a clean mold and use plenty of mold releasing agent for the urethane to flow good.
  21. Thank you guys. I was able to get the 31’ Chevy up and running today. I put the carb back together and on the car. It started right up with some choke and ran perfectly. It never needed choking before and would easily flood over so I now assume it was probably a float issue for a long time. With the holes in the float on the top, it probably took a fair amount of time to fill up.
  22. Well, a couple days ago I installed my restored fuel tank and that went off without a hitch. I went through the whole underneath of the car cleaning off the spatter from my radiator pushing water out and then greased all the fittings and drive shaft as I only put some light lubrication in the fittings originally. I then decided yesterday to install the other radiator that I had cleaned and serviced. I removed my blocked one from the chrome shell after I took it off the car then installed the serviced one. Put it in the shell and car then hooked up the hoses. I started to fully assemble the car and my brother, who was helping me said "don't do it, test it and run it before putting it all back together". Well I put in a gallon of water and went to add another when we noticed a lot of water running on the floor! WTH! Pulled it back out to find a 1" long vertical fracture crack in the front corner of the bottom tank. I know it wasn't that way when the radiator shop finished it and it wasn't dropped or anything like that. It does fit tightly in the shell but that shouldn't have caused it either. The radiator shop said things like that can just happen and to bring it back. What a bummer. I then realized the one person I know with the worst mechanical bad luck having stuff just go wrong is my brother and I had him helping me. I told him it was his fault! LOL Anyway, now it's back to the shop with both radiators to have him fix it again. And did I mention, I went to take my 31' chevy out for a ride and the carb was flooding over. Replaced the float valve, it started up then stalled flooding over more. Turns out the brass float had three pin holes and it was FULL of gas to the point you couldn't even feel it shaking around until you shook it for a long time to start getting some gas out. So last night, armed with some advice from Jon from the carburetor shop, out came the soldering iron and I repaired the float. All I wanted to do was to drive one of my antique cars yesterday and go to the cemetery to visit my dad's grave. I didn't get there, Damn it! At least I can get some pictures of the new tank in and I'll post those. Here's a shot of the Olds outside for the first time this year.
  23. Kind of at a standstill on the truck. Waiting on the motor still and the owner is supposed to be purchasing the two door wood kits from KC wood but they haven't hooked up yet. I currently have the cab level and correct so don't want to remove it from the chassis until I rewood the doors and make sure all is correct. I have another car I need to start on so I might do that until I get back on the truck. Should be getting underway soon hopefully.
  24. That’s exactly it with doing a quality restoration even when doing most the work. It’s the journey of the restoration rather than the value of the finished product. Of course, try explaining that to the significant other. I have over $50k into my Olds, and as you know, did most the work. While the Olds is only one of 249 built, one of three currently known, and the only one restored to an as correct and high level, I believe it would be difficult for it to bring enough to even break even. It’s just an Olds and doesn’t carry the prestige of even GMs next marque, a Buick, yet there were a lot more of them. I think of my 6 wheels alone with 943 hours total in them. If I paid someone $50hr for that work it would have cost $47,150 alone! Now that’s really 😜! The MG is looking beautiful so when done, just sit back and enjoy as you deserve it plus you know you did it yourself.