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Everything posted by chistech

  1. chistech

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    My own Logan lathe was given to me and was also found in a garage by a friend hired to do a clean up. It was in cleaner shape than yours and has a quick change but runs the exact same drive system with a motor pulley to jackshaft pulley to flat leather belt. I’ve been loving it ever since I got it. Picked a nice Alliant vertical mill with all the essentand a ton of tooling for $1,750 including a 5hp phase converter. They can be found out there for the right kind of money. In that box along with those feed screw gears are some guards for the belt drives. I see a face plate and other things in that box. It’s a goldmine of parts.
  2. chistech

    1935-36 Chevy Master ring gear

    Looking for a 132 tooth ring gear or flywheel with a very good ring gear for a 35-36 Chevy 207 master.
  3. chistech


    I have to agree, leave the holes no matter if you use the aprons or not.
  4. Purchased this car last year out of what appears to be a long time storage of a large collection of automobiles. With about an hours worth of time I was able to get it up and running and it ran well. I put it back in storage for about 6 months and recently started it's restoration. With a little research done off the sill data plate, I determined that the car was a early manufactured (first week of Feb) 6cyl, 6 wooden wheeled model, with just 249 produced. While it appeared mostly complete, there were some unique parts missing. What was missing was the decarbonizer, the Stromberg automatic choke, the proper air filter, the golf bag door lock, the rumble lid handle, and the rumble seats themselves. While the majority of the missing parts are year specific for the 32-33 model years, the rumble seats and the missing rumble latch are the same as 32' Chevrolet. Turns out the Olds DCR is almost identical in many ways to the 32' Chevrolet Cabriolet. While Olds called this car a "convertible roadster'' it is really a cabriolet with door windows. With the help of three fellow Olds enthusiasts, I've been able to procure all the missing parts but one. That one part was the golf bag door lock which I was just able to get the latch part, including the cam. The lock cylinder and lock tumbler were gone. I made up the missing cylinder with the help of a machinist friend and now have all the parts for my restoration. I will try and post all my progress as I go. First 4 pictures was how it looked when I first bought it. Second 4 show it when I stored it after purchase and quickly put up the roof and some fenders on for a look.
  5. Going through all the small detail parts and checking everything for fit before paint gets applied. My two spare tire locks, another factory supplied part that came with the deluxe option car, were both on my car. It’s made up of a formed steel lower metal bracket and a upper white metal casting that holds the lock mechanism. My white metal housings had a smooth finish but were dark and cloudy looking. I believe the housings might have been painted yet mine didn’t have any paint on them. I took them over to my neighbors and see if they’d polish up. Turns out the white metal, or whatever type of metal it is, polished up like chrome. They’re going to stay just as you see them. i also fit my windshield frame and lower gasket one more time to the cowl. The difference this time is I bolted it all down tight making sure it sat down correctly all along the cowl and new gasket. Alls good so off it came.
  6. Railroad cars with wood frames used tie rods with block standoff’s much like this to support the wood frames on the early wood cars.a
  7. Just thought I’d mention the efforts of those who post detailed restoration threads in this forum. For many, there are hours and hours of research spent on their project then hours and hours of physical work spent. While many understand those parts of a restoration, I don’t believe many realize unless they’ve done it, is the hours spent documenting their work. Many of us enjoy reading, viewing the pictures, and learning from these people, most don’t realize or fully understand the immense effort put in to make those threads so entertaining and informative. Time is spent by stopping ones work to take step by step pictures, more-time spent by recording measurements, readings, etc., Then, when the physical work is done, most relax by going through their daily pictures, notes, and general mental thoughts to prepare their often daily posts. I personally spend hours and hours in my garage though my wife barely complains of being a “garage widow”. What she does complain about is all the time spent on my computer or iPad. She often says “you’d have more things done on your car if you spent less time on the damn forums!” So thinking of what she said I immediately realized that I’m just a small part of all spending the same amount of time posting their work. My hat goes off to those here like Luv2wrench, Mike Macartney, Ron Haussmann, Matt Hinson, Joe Puleo, Hurrst, Rich Bad, Laughiing Coyote, and all the others. This forum is the most enjoyable on the site because of all you.
  8. Thanks John, I feel the same way. Now because it’s so close to the painting, it seems like progress has slowed way down and we’re not getting anywhere but that’s really not the case, it just feels that way. It’s like it’s never going to get there sometimes! What’s really neat is those who have followed its journey on this thread will soon see it finished and they know all the steps it went through to get there. Most have been along for the entire ride with me and I really appreciate the help, comments, motivation, and the thumbs up I’ve gotten. I’m still shooting for sometime in May to have it done. Gilly told me he’s going to be coming more often so he can help me reach that deadline. I’ve lined up some extra hands when assembly time comes as they will be needed. It’s funny how guys like to stop by and see the progress but have now offered to help in those last few weeks. I think everyone wants to finally see it done. LOL
  9. Another issue was with just one fender. The front fenders have a small inner fender panel at the very front inside in the area of the headlight cross bar bolts down to the chassis rail. No one really knows why this small panel is there. On my drivers fender, it appears that the small panel suffered some hanger rash at one time putting a decent kink that needed to be taken out. The inner panel was held to the fender with four areas of braze along the bottom of the front fender edge bead. Using a dremel thin cutoff wheel, I cut through the braze to remove the panel. Incredibly, when the panel came out exposing a lightly oversprayed original fender surface, there was virtually no real rust to be found on 87 year old fenders. A couple tiny areas but that was it. I tin knocked out the crease and.ground off all the braze. I used my blast cabinet to freshen the metal to take the etch primer then primed it and the fender. Next night both got red padded and sprayed gloss black. Next night had me tig welding in the panel. Now just some touch up body work and this fender will be done too. Supposed to shoot color on the front fenders and both front and rear aprons.
  10. Been working with Gilly to get the front fenders ready for paint. Found a couple of issues that needed attention. One was the screw holes at the front of each fender had been repaired from most likely having the slotted 5/16 x18” oval head screws pulled through at one time which was very common with the 32’ Olds. Each hole had a washer brazed to the bottom to sure up the thin fender. These holes and washers needed to be countersunk enough to allow the oval head screw to fit flush as intended. The other three holes in the fenders have stamped in finishing washers to prevent the bolts from pulling through and they’re all in perfect condition. Many who restore 32’ Olds use polished SS screws and SS finishing washers on the two front holes but all that is incorrect, all hardware should be plain steel and painted.( I was fortunate that all the original fender mounting hardware was with my car when I purchased it. When the fenders were removed many years ago, all the hardware was removed and red oxide primed, the put in a coffee can. Every single nut, bolt, and washer, including the special shaped rear fender washers were in that can with not one of any needed fastener missing! Even all the rubber washers and fender/body mounting pads were there! Pretty amazing. Using one of the oval head screws, I counter sunk each front hole in the fenders deep enough for the head to mount flush as intended. There was enough braze in each hole to allow for opening up the countersink and allowing the washer to stay brazed to the fender. The extra thickness of the washer really surges up the front hole.
  11. chistech

    help on 1929 dodge brothers doctors coupe

    Had a look on the internet and it appears that’s the way they look. Possibly the grass is helping it look lower.
  12. chistech

    help on 1929 dodge brothers doctors coupe

    The look of that car strikes me odd. It looks lowered to me. I don’t know the DB models so I’m just stating the impression I get from the photos. The tires almost look too close to the fenders too but I’m probably wrong.
  13. I might have a line on a 30 dodge for a very reasonable price. A friend had it and it didn’t need much. Interior was redone and perfect but not sure if absolutely show correct but it is period correct. Paint was decent other than the hood needed a repaint. Hadn’t run in a while and needed the typical things like brakes and vacuum fuel pump work to get it on the road .
  14. It looks like I might have a 31’ Caddy coming in for some work so I had a couple short messages with Ed about it. He did mention some finicky things and said to contact him if I did end up getting the car. By what I’ve read, heard from Ed, and others, I don’t think the caddy would be a good entry into the 20s-30’s era for the OP. The average everyday man’s car sold back then would fit the bill better, no matter what the make is. Just my opinion.
  15. Walt, Yes, I was aware of the short chassis in 28' being their last but the OP did say late 20's to early 30's cars so a 28' would qualify in my book. I'm really just making a point that a ton of cars in those years had plenty of wood and they are all good cars. There's more than Fords and Budd bodied Dodges to consider. Actually steel was the abnorm, not the norm for those years. Wood always gets a bad rap because of the work to restore one with bad wood and many just can't handle working on them. Once one has been restored, there's literally no issue in most examples. When buying a restored car (wood restored or checked for soundness) there's not much to worry about. In the future, on sites like this, the talk will be about how steel is inferior and stay away from any steel bodied cars because polymer and carbon fiber is the way to go. LOL
  16. Now, if you were fortunate to purchase a 31-32' chevy that has had it's differential gear set changed to a Larry Jackson 3.5 ratio set even that overdrive A would have a hard time cruising with that Chevy all day long.
  17. All three of these brands would have wood framed bodies and the Franklins even used wood on their chassis. Just pointing that out. But again, if the wood is good, it will most likely remain good for todays antique car usage. Because a car has a wood framed body, it shouldn't be disregarded or not recommended as a candidate for the OP's consideration. Hey, Rolls, Pierce Arrow, and Packard used wood longer than GM did and nobody disregards those cars at anytime. I'll take my 32' Olds DCR over any steel framed bodied car in its price and year range any day! Yup, I'm biased!😀
  18. While many of us here Mike do exactly as you say, and won't settle for anything but our best work, there are many these days who are very satisfied with the "good enough" thought process. My dad always said to me it usually takes no more time to do something right than doing it fast with little thought as doing right means you will most likely only do it once. Doing it to just get it done and get it done fast often results in it having to be done again, taking more time than doing it right in the first place. My son is 28, an electrical foreman in a large company, doing HD industrial work in big mills and power plants. I told him exactly what my dad told me and it is how he does his work. This simple work ethic has quickly propelled him within his company to his current position. He tells me how frustrated he is with many who work under him and are in the trade who have the "good enough" attitude as that sort of attitude doesn't cut it when dealing with thousands of volts in an industrial setting. He tells me this is not just with the younger workers but the older guys (my age, my son reminds me of! LOL) that just seem to care less about having pride in their work. I understand the younger workers being that way as many have been raised in the time of everyone gets a trophy and no one stays back in a grade but the older guys shouldn't be that way but they are. Many wonder why other countries manufacturing goods are making better products than those made in the US and simple worker self pride in workmanship is one reason. Not sure how things look over your way but we've been seeing it for years.
  19. Been following the posts and I would use a 1/8" end mill to make the holes for the springs too. On the vane material; I believe my 31' chevy's original vane oil pump had fiber vanes. I know the vane slots were not straight 90d from center out but angled from the rotor cross line. Not sure though and might try to find that pump and take some pictures. The vanes in that also have springs in them. I always enjoy every post of this thread!
  20. " Would like a driver car I can take out in the evenings that is solid, dependable, and not rare by any means. A car that is easy to grasp and learn on." What I get from this question is the OP is not looking for a car needing much restoration work, but if it needs some mechanical upkeep, it should be basic and easy enough to work on. Not rare would mean parts should be readily available and the OP actually states that as another criteria later in the post. What amazes me is all the negative comments about wood framed bodies and parts availability for Chevy. If the OP purchases a "SOLID" car as he stated he is looking for, wood won't be an issue. Today, we never put our cars through the weather that they were put through when they were new. There are plenty of wood body cars, with excellent condition wood, out there in the same price range as an A and some T's that are in great shape and actually, have a much more "solid" feel and sound to them than a steel bodied car plus better HP and drivability. Close a door on a 32' Chevy and a 32' Ford and you'll know what I mean. Drive a Ford A or T all day at 35-40mph. Drive a 31-32 chevy at 45-50 all day with more power and better brakes. Kind of a no brainer. If someone buys a good solid wood bodied car, they will not have any more issues with it than those without the wood. The OP states a $20-$22K budget. I can tell you a very nice, reliable, completely solid, wood framed car can be purchased. That kind of money would buy you a very nice rumble seat coupe and virtually any restored sedan. I restore different brands of Fisher bodied cars. Great driving and super easy to work on mechanically. I do woodwork but again, I restore them and once they leave my shop, I'm confident the owner will never see a wood issue in his lifetime. To try and scare someone away from a wood bodied car with all kinds of horror stories or lack of parts availability is not proper advice based on the OP's original question and his budget. To inform him, if looking at a wood framed bodied car, to make sure the wood is solid and if he's not sure, to have someone experienced look at it for him, would be proper advice. As far as original and aftermarket parts for Chevy, 330,000 31' chevys were made and another ton of them in 32', both years outselling Ford. Yes, there are a lot more Fords on the road because of the steel bodies, but there's still a ton of original parts out there from the chevys that aren't on the road. Aftermarket parts are also very plentiful for the 29 and up Chevys.
  21. chistech

    New Years Drive today in the 1929

    I had my 31’ Chevy out, here in south eastern Massachusetts, for a nice breakfast run for New Years. Weather was nice and we haven’t had any salt spread on the roads yet this year so I figured, “why not”?
  22. chistech

    Thinking about a 1927 "T"

    One thing to note on a 26-27’ T, if it’s a coupe or roadster, there is less front seat room than 25’ and earlier. I grew up with a T and totally enjoyed driving it when I became of age. Now that I’m older and enjoying antique cars, I thought I’d might want to buy a model T because I really do like them that much. I’ve always liked the looks of the 26-27’ coupes, roadsters, and roadster pickups especially with the wire wheel option. I had a chance to purchase one from a friend who deals in T’s and it was he who told me that. Forgot what the reason is but someone of my 6’-1”, 235 frame, would not be as comfortable in the 26-27 compared to the 25 and earlier cars of the same body style. I never realized they changed the size of the cockpit in those last two years.
  23. chistech

    1967 Mercury Cougar

    Car has been sold!
  24. chistech

    1967 Mercury Cougar

    Trying to help out a friend who helped out his best friend. This car was in storage for the last 25 yrs and the owner who planned to restore it got in financial trouble recently and his best friend bought the car from him to help him out. He has asked me to help him sell it and it’s on my property right now. the car is 98% original and has 57,xxx miles on it. It’s an autowith a 302. The car was originally purchased by a woman who towed a trailer so she had a hitch put on the back (remember when hitches on cars were common). The interior of the car is in very nice condition other than the bucket seat bottoms and the door armrests. The head liner looks like it was installed yesterday. The dash alllooks very good also. Supposedly the car was under a roof most all it’s life but some of that was just a carport. The last 25 yrs has been in a dry garage. The body is extremely straight and the only areas of rot is the very bottom of the passenger side rear quarter behind the tire and the front edge by the center point on the hood.The trunk looks super solid inside as do the doors and most other areas of the car though there is surface rust showing through the paint. Don’t know if the car was ever repainted. Headlight doors open/close as they should and I was told the sequential taillights work but are slow. Heater blower motor also works along with the wipers. The PO stripped the hood to stop the rust/rot on the front edge and surrounding areas and that is why it appears a different color. Car started right up and trans works but there’s no brakes so I didn’t drive the car. The PO changed the carb (original is included) but it’s not adjusted correctly and it bogs with a hard acceleration of pedal. The PO also told me the torque boxes will need repair which I understand is very common on these cars. Original hubcaps are also included. Doors close super solid with no sag and so does the hood and trunk lid. Windows crank up and down and no broken glass. Windows appear tinted but not sure if it’s a factory tint or not as I didn’t look that close but will investigate and answer questions from truly interested parties. $5,700.
  25. chistech

    Thinking about a 1927 "T"

    I had my 32’ Olds connecting rods rebabbitted by Russ at Paul’s rod and bearings. He did great work and turn around time was pretty quick. I also asked him about main bearing work and he said that if a block is sent to him he can redo the Babbitt and line bore the bearings to what ever dimension your machine shop polishes the crank to. He told me his prices for the whole job it is was quite a bit less than the machine shops that do Babbitt quoted me. (1/4 the cost of local Babbitt machine shops) Shipping a bare block is not that costly either if you crate it yourself and take it to a terminal. There are other very capable Babbitt shops and some post here. Paul’s was the shop I worked with and I’m very happy with them but I would check with others too. One thing I’ve found that many machine shops offering Babbitt work are sending the customers parts out and doubling the actual cost to the customer. There are ways to get quality work and not cost you your first and second born. I had heard horror stories of others rebuilding 31-32 Chevy 6’s for $10-$12k and know some who paid that. With a little creativity and research I rebuilt my own motor including rod and main bearings, line bored, balanced, all head work, new pistons, valves, springs, guides, etc., for $3,400. My Olds didn’t require new mains but needed custom made pistons and cut valves along with new Babbitt on the rods. I totally rebuilt that motor for just under $4k and that included the machine shop totally assembling it plus delivery to my garage. I’m currently in the middle of doing my third Babbitt 6cyl in the past 18 months. They no longer scare me as far as cost and difficulty. If you want some tips on how you can save considerable money on a rebuild, PM me.