edinmass

A bit long in the tooth to be a driver and left as is.........and the price is steep, even for a very rare Buick coupe. Looks like a small series car.

Rivke....did you buy the 41 that was for sale at the lawn mower shop last year in town? It was a coupe. Yonkers has had many streets removed and renamed, just last week I was researching an address for a company there in the 20's and 30's. The book was assembled decades before on line information became accessible and it literally was the Bible of car history for decades, and still is. Entire new companies have come to light with local historians posting the details that would have been impossible to find source material anywhere else at the time. Knowing both the authors of the book, I can assure you they were the best automotive historians IN THE WORLD AT THE TIME IT WAS WRITTEN. I have published articles with Bev Kimes back in the 80's and 90's. Her knowledge of the automobile we second to NONE. PS- Im from Ludlow......

The car has a torque tube drive line.......which means you need to pull the rear springs and rear end out or back to get the clutch out of the car. It's not a big deal. Just nuts and bolts. It is more work than a drive shaft set up. The Buick is fairly light weight and simple compared to many other cars. If you need a clutch disk or pressure plate rebuilt there is a company called Fort Wayne Clutch........best in the business for getting any clutch done.

That was me saying........Just one more!

LOOK AT THE WHEEL WEIGHTS ON THE RIMS..........tells you EVERYTHING you need to know. We won't comment on the hood and body fit...........

Poorly made front end bushings are a huge problem today. Many people have stuff made and have no clue what they are doing. I just did a Caddy front end that when the bushings didn't fit correctly, the SHOP replaced them with cut up heater hose, and gave it to the customer. That is the state of the world today. I find almost no shop that services modern cars had people who are qualified to do an actual alignment. Most .........set the toe and go.........A proper alignment on a 39 12 would take many hours..........and almost no one wants to pay a shop rate of 150-300 per hour to have a truly correct alignment. Making shims and adjustments could easily take 6-12 hours of time. Also, spring sag, ride height, air pressure, worn parts, and loading the seats with weight are all part of properly aligning the car. As to how you set it up, I don't use specifications from back in the day........I set them up like modern trucks from the 60's. I would also be suspect of the equipment you are using. I don't like the magnetic units most people use........I work off the rims..........Ed

Unattractive body, poor restoration, and a RHD Gemmer steering box............run, don't walk.

Correct.......but it was not "high compression" it's just a marketing tool.

A 1930 V-8 Series 353 didn’t use the fake covers. And the 1932 V-8 Series 355B didn’t either. There are a bunch of other things…….but the cover is most obvious. I have owned more than a dozen 1931 Caddy Series 355A cars over the years.

Give up all my secrets? 🤔

Great car……too bad about the color.

It’s absolutely a 1931 Cadillac Series 355A engine, produced from September 1930 to March 15 1931………..give me the serial number, and I can give you the day it was assembled.

A printed gear will fail………

Hi……pm me with your phone number……..Ed

Bloo- I agree that I don’t like all that resistance and heat in the circuit on a car this early. Ultimately using three Optima 6 V batteries is really no different than the original set up and just grabbing a tap off of it to run six or 12 V really isn’t a big deal. Keeping everything hidden as well as done in a safe and workmen and like manner is the biggest issue. For my particular car I did what I thought was best with 11,000 miles and it being totally original except for the tires and hoses I didn’t really wanna make any changes to the car. It has the original 1917 valve gaskets on it. The definition of original. Ed

Well…….I would guess it’s more than ten percent under low estimate. Apparently no interest in it at that venue. Crazy how one venue is hot, and another isn’t. It’s rare for ANY Stutz to sell below market numbers.

Pfitz - great explanation of the brake system and how to get correct contact and function……two thumbs up for someone who actually knows what they are doing! 👍👍

ABear....I think your response was fine and spot on....no need to qualify it. I would install three 6 volt optima batteries, and pull 12 volts off the set up so I could install better bulbs than 6 volt. My 17 White is 12 volt from the factory, so I converted to 12 volt halogen bulbs in the front and led bulbs in the rear........BUT my conversion left the factory lights alone......I made a quick attachment light bar in the front and tail lights in the rear so they come on and off with only one bolt. The lights plug into a custom harness that hooks to the battery and completely eliminates any alterations to my 100 percent original car. Only drawback to my system is the light switch is under the car next to the battery shut off......no big deal as I only drive at night with the added lights here in Florida at night when its too hot in the summers. Best, Ed Photo shows the quick attach headlights.......of a 1920 Chevy.

They were sim cad or nickle brush finish on MOST cars......not all.

I edited my post......as after I responded I looked up some information. Below is the battery set up with the 6 volt lug to pull power. It is NOT used on a White. The information I have is they used 18v bulbs. Of the three 18 volt White cars I have driven, all were converted or altered in some way, so I have not clear indication of what was stock factory. I would guess by 1920 any 18 volt cars still driving were partially converted to 6 volts. Just pure conjecture. Anyway, you can see the battery was a single 18 volt unit. The entire system is strange with the crazy starter/generator that actually moves on a hinge to engage the flywheel. The car uses the "two wire system" common to the era. Thought the photo would be of some interest. Ed

Put the brakes in a toaster oven, set the unit to broil and leave in one hour. It will burn off the fluid 100 percent. It's the only way to do it, as brake clean will NOT get it all out. Also works for oil. Been doing it for over 45 years, and no issues. PS- Be sure you don't do it in the house for fumes..........or your wife will kill you!

It was a mistake to use the gas tank sealer, and the rtv. You should have used only what was available back in the 30's for gaskets. (Rtv and silicone sealers will cause lots of issues across the board.) Gas tank sealer may not be stable with heat cycles, you should have used pump casting epoxy to seal it. As far as the gasket and bolts........Indian Head would be the best thing.......a little goes a long way. I recommend leaving it alone now.....unless you start from square one and take it apart.

George.......weren't you already driving when the quake hit in 1906? Didn't you have a plate on your car then? 😇