fleajr

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About fleajr

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  1. fleajr

    Grinding gears

    I have a 1914 4 cylinder 4 speed manual transmission with factory overdrive in 4th gear. With the motor running or without running the only time it will change gears is when the car is NOT moving. I tried double clutching while driving and bringing the throttle down to idle but still no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
  2. My 1958 Cadillac Fleetwood had a rebuilt Rochester 4 gc 4 barrel carb. installed recently. My mechanic says that the engine runs very irradically with the new heat insulator and gaskets installed on either side of it. So, he ran the car with only the 2 new gaskets and NO insulator and the car ran quite well. Problem now is the car will NOT IDLE at all! He sprayed carb. cleaner around the carb. areas with the engine running at fast idle and the engine did not speed up at all , meaning there is no air leakage? Could it be a vacuum leak and where should I check first? Do I need the heat insulator installed under the carb. or is it ok to run the car with only the 2 new gaskets under it? Anyone in the Cadillac Club or? have any ideas of what the problem is or who I can contact to help with this will not idle issue? Thanks, Al
  3. I have a 1958 Cadillac Fleetwood with a rebuilt Rochester 4 barrel carb. It will not run correctly with a new heat insulator and new gaskets installed on either side of it. It only runs well with the 2 gaskets only, with NO insulator! Problem is when running engine with the 2 gaskets only, now it will not idle at all. I sprayed carb. cleaner around the carb. areas with engine at fast idle and the engine speed did not increase , meaning there was no leakage in those areas? Could it be a vacuum leak somewhere and if so what areas should I check? My mechanic is pulling his hair out trying to find a solution to this non idling issue. Any help would be appreciated including a person I can contact to help with this problem. Anyone in the Cadillac club that may be able to help? Thanks,. Al
  4. The ammeter reading while idling is at 12 the needle goes all the way to the right. The third brush only slightly at best reduces from 18 volts.
  5. I had my 1922 dodge 12volt starter/generator rebuilt recently and am having problems of overcharging . It constantly shows around 18 volts while idling,as it should read no more than 8 volts. I tried turning the adjustment screws on the unit but still shows heavy overcharging. I put in a new 12 volt battery and had the starter switch rebuilt with an electronic cut out by Meyers dodge parts co. Could the person that rebuilt it used the wrong gauge wiring or what? Please help as I do not want to remove it again from the car for the 4th time! There are two terminals on top of the generator. One goes to ground? And other terminal supposedly is not to have any wire connected to it ( per Meyers dodge)?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  6. I have a 1920 Brewster Knight Landaulet which was apparently the most expensive American car at a hefty price of $10,700.00. Brewster built only approx. 434 of there own automobiles from 1915-1925 which most people are not aware of. In 1926, Rolls Royce bought them out and they primarily built bodies for them. Is there any way to promote Brewster as a full CCCA Classic? I believe it is time for collectors to realize the importance of the early Brewster automobiles. I do know that the 1930's Brewster bodied cars have been recognized as a full classic for some time now.
  7. Why does my 1922 Dodge backfire through the muffler while driving acclerating then quickly decelerate the throttle? I advanced and retarded the spark lever when this happens with no change. I also had my 12 volt starter/ generator rebuild. Upon idling the ammeter shows a charge of + 4-6 and when accelerating needle moves all the way over on the charg side of the ammeter. At one end of the generator are 2 adjustment screws so we turned the screw all the way down, but it would not turn apparently low enough to get the ammeter rate to center 0 . The brushes look to correctly installed. Any thoughts?
  8. Anyone have a engine hand crank for my 1917 REO Speedwagon 3/4 ton . Also, need a intake heater flex pipe that attaches to carb. Then to exhaust manifold. Or what store I can purchase one from.
  9. Anyone know how to get in touch with person that rebuilds Stewart vacuum tanks that I met at Hershey this year. I believe his name may be Dennis Long from Beavercreek, Ohio. He told me he used to be a Judge in Ohio and he goes to Florida in the winter.
  10. I am seeking a 6 volt 3 terminal cutout and a condenser 3 terminal that attaches to my Remy model 254-A generator. Also, know of person to rebuild my Remy generator?
  11. During the previous owners winter storage...My early sleeve valve engine apparently had water freezing in cast iron block and resulted in a crack somewhere in the block. Heavy white smoke comes from exhaust and radiator bubbles while idling and bubbling increases with acceleration. There is no water in the oil or oil in the radiator so far. I Who and where should I consult as to correctly repairing this. Any response would be greatly appreciated. Repair company or individual that can repair this in Ohio,Pa.Ny.Mi,IN or states near preferred.
  12. i. I am interested in your Olds please call me at 440 479 0450 thanks ,Al
  13. Hi, i am looking for the condenser unit that is fastened to the "outside" of my Remy 254-A generator. This is on my 1917 REO Speedwagon Model F 3/4 ton truck. Also seeking a coil and cutout. Any help or if you know where I can find any of these please let me know asap. Thanks, Al