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About AB-Buff

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  1. Looks fantastic. The two window town sedan is a very very nice looking car
  2. Hi Well I thought it was necessary. When you are looking for a V-12 "K" part it's much easier to not have to sift though a lot of Zephyr and Continental parts. There are completely different. Lynn
  3. Hi Matt. I want to reiterate that I’m not having a heating issue and I’m not losing water. But I do feel the water isn’t spending enough time in the radiator. They put a pretty darn good pump on these things so I think I’m going try slowing it down just a little with restrictors . I made two of these today they’re a half inch thick cupped on each side leaving a quarter inch thick web then I put a full radius on it the ID is 5/8 of an inch. I think this should work well if not I can always slip them right back out. And you won’t see them. I think the in-line thermostat is perfect. If I would’ve
  4. Yes there’s a gentleman in the club that has kept track of Lincolns for many years, he is getting up in age and isn’t doing real well but if something happens to him I believe the book will end up with Ray Theriault. Somehow it needs to be archived somewhere. I don’t think the club has ever done a roster of any type on K’s. Linus Tremaine has done one on L or is working on one. I took a picture of my number that is on the rear of the engine by the motor mounts. It’s the same as on the front but my engine number is much lower, 38xx
  5. Matt I'm pretty sure you have the correct engine, I believe Lincoln just cast engine and as they were cast they just put a number on them to keep track of the casting date etc, When they wanted the next engine case no one when out to look for the next number they just grabbed the next block. After the engine was assembled and tested it got an ID number and when a body was set on the chassis it got a matching ID number. On my 34 and 35 those numbers don't match either. I doubt if any of them did.
  6. Matt I am not familiar with time-sert inserts, I have had extremely good luck with that type of insert though. I looked on there web site and under FAQ they state this TIME-SERT will state that if the thread repair is done correctly and with the proper length of insert used for the application e.g. the insert is the same length of the original thread engagement, the result should be a hole that should match the original torque specification of the hole.
  7. Ed Yesterday was a 70 mile drive, some freeway and some back roads, I ran between 50-65, mostly 59 (about 2100 RPM) it was 83 degrees outside temp, and the temperature on the gauge was in the middle which when I checked with an infrared gun that was 180 degrees. So far so good. An interesting observation. When I got the car there was not a front radiator shutter system. What I noticed when I put it on and it opens up fully at temperature it tends to direct the air under the hood to each side where the hood vents are. Clever if that was the intent but I think my car feels a LOT cooler i
  8. Mine has a little bit different filler neck add it to the top that I can use a pressure cap it also has overflow relief built into that section. You can also see how I mounted my little diverter.
  9. Ed asked if I had solved my water issues. I would say that I have about 80%. I still wanna do or try a couple of things. When I found out is in 1935 Lincoln moved the radiator cap underneath the hood. It no longer is at the very top of the radiator. I am also finding out it wasn’t the best of designs. Water comes out of both heads through a 1 3/8” ID hose and comes together into a “Y” casting that’s mounted to the radiator, that’s where it measures temperature. Right off that “Y” there’s a little elbow with the radiator cap. When the engine is running you cannot leave that cap off water will c
  10. Hi Ed Thanks for the tip on the runningboards. I was hoping there was some kind of magic solution that would help protect them a little bit more. I guess armor all might work but that only is there for a short time and goes away. But thank you. I would like to answer you about the water question on the Lincoln model K area. I have more to add to that. But basically I drove my car 100 miles the last coupe of days and it hasn’t dropped a drop of water but there’s been a few modifications to keep it from doing that and I’m not done yet. Lynn
  11. Hi Maybe this topic has been discussed before, not sure. On my 1935 Lincoln the runningboard rubber is original and they’re in very good condition however they are hard. Does anybody recommend a treatment to keep them from getting any harder, cracking and falling apart? I don’t plan on buying new rubber for them anytime soon. Would like to keep it as is. Lynn
  12. In a conversation with Ray Theriault I mentioned if there were any replacements for the front shock, he mentioned that usually nobody changes them. But to me they look like shock rubbers mounts. I would be willing to bet you could find something close in a shock absorber rubber mount. 1940 Bantam uses a couple of rubber mounts like that for the rear mounts that are the same as shock absorbers. I’ll look tomorrow and measure them to see if they’re close. L
  13. Matt It sounds like you took a peek at them and if they look good you will be OK, I could tell on mine they were not doing a good job, I think over 50% of them were leaking a bit so I just did it. It is a lousy job for an older man to do in the car, It took me a while, I have a crappy back and it wasn't happy. On the heads, if they are not badly eroded around the water ports and if you have access to a hot water parts washer they will be OK. I will attached a photo of what they look like inside, just flush a lot of water through them. They can be eroded a little , place a head ga
  14. Hi Matt. Looks like you’re making some headway on that Lincoln. Did you do a compression check before you tore it down? I know when I went into mine I figured I’m this far I’m gonna pull the valves and do a valve job I had one valve that was bent so bad I didn’t know how it was sealing, barely maybe. All of my cylinders are now up to 100 to 118 pounds. I think it’s worth doing while you’re there I hate to say that, I don’t know if you can do it yourself or not. I have a machine and have done them before so and it’s a miserable job in the car. If the Engine is out of the car and on a stand it s
  15. Well I re-torqued everything for the third time the other day, barely got any turns on any of the nuts maybe three or 4° in a couple. So it’s settling down good I’ll check it one more time (or 2) after I run it around some more. Runs great I did set the timing at 10° before top dead center and as you can see from the vacuum gauge I have a good vacuum I’ll have to see what I can idol this down to sometime but I had it at 300 RPMs and it was chugging right along. I did move it back up to about 500 rpm. Runs great has good acceleration now. Actually when I step on the throttle I can feel it sent
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