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  1. How far over from a 5/16 stud would you recommend as far as clearance on the heads bolts? I have a pretty good machine shop.
  2. John Kocsis took over everything Ernie was doing, he still has heads made per Ernie's specifications. To my knowledge he doesn't make the acorn nuts. That is really good advice about giving the stud a little more clearance, hadn't thought about that. That is the issue when trying to take one of these heads off that been on for a long time that had a little water seeping in past the threads, makes a long day of in taking them off... or week or more!
  3. Thanks Matt I am pretty exited about it. I have about 500+ miles on it just messing around and sorting it out, love to drive it. I took a couple of photos of the studs, they are 3.250" long. With that length I think you can use them every where. There are only two of them on each side that are a little longer and that's the two you refer to that hold the spark plug conduit bracket, it's like .125-.187 longer. I think with this stud length they will work in all the holes, as edinmass said you have to check each one to make sure the acorn nut doesn't bottom out. As long as you have 1 1/2"
  4. Fresh from the Chrome shop. This is a solid brass replication of the 1933-34 Lincoln gas cap and is truly "Pebble Beach Quality". The brass billet alone cost close to $100.00. The cap is probably better than any original gas cap in that it has been machined and plated instead of investment casting, buffed and plating. You don't get any better than this. The detail is superb, I only have 3 left and don't plan on making anymore, ever. If you want the perfect gas cap for your Show Lincoln, here it is... Comes with a gas resistant gasket. ..450.00 Free S&H in the USA. PM for purchasing de
  5. I also decided while I have tall the manifolds off to have them redone. Originally they were coated with porcelain. That looks extremely nice but has a tendency to crack and pop off. I was told by a number of Lincoln guys if you want to drive it just do them in Ceramic, it looks good and wont's crack of pop off. Because I will never show this car seriously and want to drive and tour with it I went with the Ceramic. You can see a before and after. I will post a finished picture when they are installed.
  6. I have a set of Ernie Foster heads and may use them, I was saving them for another project but I may never get to that one. The heads that were on the car appear to be original and in excellent shape but I will probably go with Ernie's . I have some steel NOS head gaskets that I will use. The water pump looks excellent inside, it was rebuilt when the heat exchanger was replaced a few months ago. As far as scoping the block, there are 3 large holes that apparently held the core when these were cast, you can fiscally look to the bottom when yo look in them. These cylinder block have no se
  7. Replacement for the Auto-Lite IGM-16 rotors. These rotors are made from a nearly unbreakable polyurethane (you will not break one with normal usage). They come with a new conductive graphite button .050” longer than stock and a new spring. These are made in a very limited number and will not be available forever. If you need one now is the time to pick one up. You will get a rotor very similar to the one pictured here. Used on Lincoln 1932-39 V12. $130.00 FREE shipping PM me for purchasing details
  8. I'm not trying to pick a fight with you, I am an old fart also with 50 plus years of old car experience, this is not mu first rodeo. You just relied don't do this and that without any suggestions so I asked why. I think you misread my Post, I am not going to close up any water passage, re read my post, the thought was to fill it and re-drill it so there was more meat next to the cylinder to get a better chance of head gasket sealing. Other Lincoln owners have suggested this to me as a good fix, I am still thinking about it. The car runs excellent does not overheat, just pisses water ou
  9. Lets see, I got a lot of I should have and don't??? So if the engine did not have a heating issue why would the heads be bad? What's wrong with ARP studs? they are designed to stretch and maintain the torque. So no JB weld and do not TIG silicone braze the block. So just leave it alone? Are you familiar with that process?
  10. I recently bought a 1935 LaBaron coupe, I feel like I was in the right place at the right time to purchase it, I am extremely happy to have it. I have spent many hours sorting it out to get it in driving condition as it sat for 4-5 years? I want to tour with it, not show it. It still has a few issues that I will attend to shortly. The biggest issue it has (had I hope) was that every time I started it up and let it warm up it would dump some water out of the over flow tube on the radiator. At first I just thought it was just trying to find it's happy spot in the radiator but every time it
  11. I needed a new carb spacer for my Lincoln, the one that was on it had holes .200" so small for the carburetor bores. I guess I had a restrictor plate 🙂 . I made 4 of them and have 3 left. They are made from Garlock G-11 material, very strong, heat resistant and an excellent thermal barrier. If you need one they are $120.00 potage paid in the US. PM for address. Cross manifold not included 🙂
  12. The Lincoln "K" Model 1931-1939 Group was created to try and get Lincoln type “K” owners together to share there knowledge about the later Lincolns, possible find parts and share technical information etc. It is in no way to substitute or take away from the Lincoln Owner’s Club “LOC” in fact if you are not a member of the club you can do that at this address http://loc.clubexpress.com/ Lets get the information going! Lynn
  13. I am modifying the Tillotson carburetor seats to adapt to a new style needle and seat. This is a flat bottom seat, compatible with today’s gas. I will only do it on an exchange basis, you mail me your original Austin or Bantam Tillotson seat body (M10-A, M10-B and M10-BX) and I will mail you back an original Tillotson seat body that has been machined and a new needle and seat with gaskets. So if you want to be able to walk off from your car without worrying about the gas dribbling out of it or tired of you trailer smelling like gas now is the time to get one. $50.00 post paid. PM me for add
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