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Everything posted by AB-Buff

  1. Matt i’m just remembering you had Lock and Stitch work on that block. You obviously sent the whole engine to them. Did you have the water elbows off at all? Could they have possibly stuffed a rag in it to keep water from leaking on their bench or in their area? Did you check any of that? Also I’m still thinking that you were just not priming the pump I think at this point I would surgically drill a hole for an 8 inch pipe tap, make a nice plug that just fits the ID of that centrifugal pump and not sticking up too far so it looks nice and slowly fill that radiator with that plug out, when water comes out of the top of that pump put that plug in and fill it up. But first check to see if they happen to stick anything in that engine. It’s possible some worker bee stuffed a rag in it to keep water from leaking out of it I don’t know. Just a thought. Easy to do without tearing anything down. if you look at the sketch of that water pump there’s literally 8 inches of air space above the inlet and the outlet. I’ve got a swimming pool and I can let water into my centrifugal pump and it takes it quite a while before it picks up water and flushes the air out , takes a lot longer than you think. L
  2. I keep going over this in my mind and I am inclined to think you are just not getting water flow. All those things you mentioned above in your last post might cause concern. I don’t think you can put the water pump impeller on backwards in that you would not be able to install it into the housing I think it would hit. When you had your water pump off, the elbows on each side of your engine that the water flows through to feed the cylinder blocks, did you happen to look through or push anything through that tube that crosses through your crankcase that water pass from one side to the other? Maybe there is a blockage there? Also on the driver side, that elbow has a fitting on it, somebody added that I’m not sure what that fitting does may be water heater? But I would make sure there’s no blockage there. Also I still think your water pump it is not priming correctly. Like I told you before mine was a booger and for some reason when I filled it through the radiator in allowing the water to flow through radiator first direction that it managed to flush out that bubble quickly. When you do that you cannot have the water lines pinched off anywhere, The engine needs to vent through the upper hoses. I don’t think one tooth on your cam either direction would cause it to heat that fast, if you were running down the road pulling a long grade or something like that I could see it happening. But not in the timeframe that you’re overheating. I believe it’s a flow issue. Somewhere you have a blockage or that pump is just not priming. Also Ed and one of his posts mentioned that at one time his water pump sucked the oil out of the grease cup and it sucked air into his water system. You have a grease cup on your water pump it’s not supposed to. it’s supposed to have a grease zert with a cap to keep it from siphoning. In the meantime take it off and put a plug in it just to see.
  3. Matt just when you think you’ve got everything perfect and ready to go some thing else pops its head up and you have to deal with it. Happens all the time. Right now the hood grill and Radiator are out of the Lincoln. It developed a leak on the passenger side, a previous mechanic decided to put a bolt that holds the hood hole down clamp to the radiator side on with a bolt that’s a half inch too long and it went into the radiator. Hopefully my guy can fix it reasonably fast and reasonably inexpensive. But crap happens. More than you want. Lynn I thought this was a pretty cool picture so I thought I’d post it.
  4. Pretty sure the park lights don't stay on while the headlights are on. I didn't see any thing in your diagram that lead me to think they would. Cole Hersee used to sell an push pull 4 position switch that would work good We use them in the Bantams. Off. park. low and high L
  5. Matt The headlight switch is a little hard to find as is all the piece parts to work it. My 34 was missing all of it also and it took a couple of years to locate all the pieces. Like you said, run it like you have it and just keep an eye out for the parts. You may never change it out but the next guy might. I tried to find a sketch of all the parts on the PC and could not, I will look far a hard copy and scan it for you. Model A switch is a different configuration inside. L 1934-35 headlight switch, maybe through 39?
  6. Hi Alan. It’s a fun one. But just like Matt hardwoods. Lots of years of neglect in semi Standard maintenance. At least in the last few years. But we’re sorting it all out and having fun with it. How is your project coming? Lynn
  7. I had just talked with one of the VPs of the LOC. He said the club is planning on next year. I’m guessing it’s going to be in conjunction with Ford, probably a big event. They are planning a very nice event this year but I don’t think it’s the 100. I’ve been planning on going next year. When Matt wrote it was this year I panicked. I need to find a trailer to use to get my Lincoln there and back. I don’t have an extra $27,000 in the bank to buy a new one, wish I did. Anyway this year‘s festivities look great, But I think the official 100th is next year.
  8. Matt I have been hearing conflicting stories on when the LOC will celebrate the hundredth anniversary. Everybody I talk to now says it is in 2022. 100 years from when Ford bought it from Leland. Anyway maybe there is another hundredth celebration somewhere you’re talking about? Lynn
  9. I’ve got a friend restoring a 33K a Roadster right now. I’ll check with him to see if he’s aware of the shop manual, he’s pretty up on that type of stuff. I’ll get back with you. Still want to see a photo of that car! L I just checked with him. He knows of nothing. Would love to know if there is one.
  10. I posted this once in under trucks. I thought I’d try here. Back in the 70s I owned this truck partially restored and sold it. Looking for the owner of it now, if anybody knows the whereabouts please let me know. I have historical information about it. Lynn
  11. Hi Berry. The book of instructions (owners manual) is a little difficult to find I would recommend searching eBay, may take months to find. But David Clement in the Lincoln Owners Club has them. They are a little pricey. But it’s a very good book to have. Also through the Lincoln Owners Club there is a set of service manuals that covers from 1931 through 39K and some Zephyr. They are also worth getting. I can’t remember what the price was or who to get them from but that information I believe was in every fork and blade issue. Post some pictures of your Lincoln. We’d love to see it. Lynn
  12. No, I use the material I had laying around here. I’m almost embarrassed to tell you what it is but it works fantastic. I cut a piece of it up threw it in some gasoline for a couple of weeks to see if it would dissolved and it didn’t. It’s actually a roofing material called tiger paw. It’s advertised to last 20 years in the sun by itself. It worked fantastic for the diaphragm. If you want a piece I can send you some. It’s not rocket science it’s just a diaphragm and as long as the gasoline won’t eat it up and it doesn’t leak vacuum and it functions properly. It’ll work. L took me a while to grind a photo of the diaphragm
  13. Matt after you get this engine running (hopefully soon) put a vacuum gauge on the port just below the carburetor On the manifold and see what it is. Then when you install it in the car check it again. You may end up having to go through your brake system. There’s a couple of vacuum diaphragms that can go away in time. One is the adjustment that you have on your steering column there’s a diaphragm in there that can develop a leak and then there is what I call an actuator switch controlled by the brake pedal. When you press the brake on it pulls a rod which allows vacuum to go through your selector switch on the steering column to the brake booster underneath the car. When I got mine somebody had rebuilt the booster but they did not mess with the selector switch on the steering column or the actuator switch off of the brake pedal. Both diaphragms had holes in them. The car still ran well but I was losing vacuum. selector, mounts to steering column bad diaphragm actuator mounts to break linkage
  14. Hi I just noticed this post. I’ve been getting a lot of notifications on another subject and I overlooked it. I think I am good on the wheels I managed to find four and they are on their way. Thank you for responding though. Lynn
  15. Matt there are service manuals for K available through the Lincoln Owners Club starting January 31 and runs through 39 and cover some Zephur. I want to say you can get them through Joe Rogers? Or maybe Jim Griffin? Anyway the info is in the LOC fork and blade Lynn
  16. After you take the rear cover off the differential don’t forget to count the teeth to make sure you have what you think you have as far as a ratio. There are a couple of felt seals like the ones on your front hubs, mine were in good shape I didn’t have to mess with them. But there are also two more felt seals up in the axle housing near differential gears, you can’t see them with the third member in. I didn’t change those either. In order to do that you’d have to remove the third member. So be careful removing and replacing the axle. Lynn
  17. I thought I would run out to the shop pop a hub cap off and take a picture, the screwdriver is pointing to where the ring ends come together. It comes out pretty easy.
  18. Matt it’s been about a year since I took my rear hubs off. But I want to say there’s a snap ring or something that looks like a snap ring that goes around the outside of the hub it comes right off after that the axel will slide out and then you can get to the nuts it is a full floating differential. I usually take a lot of photos unfortunately I only took these two. Hope it helps
  19. Matt if you’re going to drive it those are all wonderful suggestions. They’re easy to do and doesn’t take long.
  20. I’m looking for a couple of nice six lug 18 inch wire wheels for 1932 and 33 master. I’m trying to find some that are “round”. Basically when you spin them they don’t go up and down a lot, I would like to find some within a 1/32 of an inch. Let me know if you have any.Thanks Lynn PS I’m looking for some within a 300 mile radius of 95376 ZIP Code. The cost of shipping this is quite expensive.
  21. Ashley a NAPA store should carry what you looking for, I would ask for “water pump packing” material. It’s a “square” rope type material with graphite impregnated in it. Cut it to length and cut the ends at 45 and make sure they mate together to make a seal. It comes in a lot of different sizes from about 1/8” up.
  22. I agree, I did not put them in mine and it’s fine. I didn’t throw them away, I still have them but so far so good.
  23. Good deal, buy it and don’t leave home without it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/373612171174 if you don’t win the bid, Ray Theriault has a few of them. It’s a fantastic wrench. You need it for both front and rear.
  24. If you make one do not breathe any of the dust from this. Even a small amount will cause major issues. It’s nasty crap. I have three left if you’re interested.
  25. Matt make sure you polarize the generator before you start it.
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