95Cardinal

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95Cardinal last won the day on August 5 2018

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About 95Cardinal

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  • Birthday 07/11/1956

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    SE Michigan

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  1. 95Cardinal

    Cam Bearing Help

    Good catch. How long has that place been assembling engines? And, Russ Martin is a GREAT resource!
  2. 95Cardinal

    Vinyl Top Material

    Try Legendary Auto Interiors: https://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/ For a situation like yours, I recommend calling. Not everything is on the website.
  3. 95Cardinal

    Garnet Red 57 Roadmaster 75

    Yep, I DO like the color combo! Hope to see you with it in June!
  4. 95Cardinal

    Garnet Red 57 Roadmaster 75

    Congrats, Adam; looks like a GREAT find!
  5. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    First step in assembling the front seat back was to clean, paint and inspect the seat frame and spring unit. The transverse spring wire that supports the individual zig-zag springs (essentially the lumbar support) was fractured and had to be replaced. This frame came from low-mileage car and was in excellent condition. The clean, shiny metal you see is as the frame appeared when the old trim cover was removed! It has been coated with a clear protectant to preserve it. Initial test fit of the trim cover and side panel to ensure that all the seams will be covered by the side panels as designed and sewn. I installed the 2 screws that will ultimately attach the ash tray to the seat back. Having the screw heads in place will make it much easier to locate the attaching points for the ash tray after the trim cover has been attached to the frame. Visible at the top of the above image is the first point of attachment of the seat cover. There is a wire-reinforced upper bolster that is attached via hog rings to the upper frame rail. The heavy felt isolator is installed between the two layers of springs in the seat back spring unit. The trim cover is drawn over the perimeter of the frame and retained with hog rings. After installing the cover and verifying the fit of the side panel, the upper bolster looks loose and baggy. The area beneath the french seam required additional padding to fill out the cover contours. I removed the cover and added thin layers of cotton/poly blend padding to better match the cover shape After re-installing the cover, fabricated stuffing tools like these make it easier to manipulate the last bits of padding into the necessary position under the corner: End view of the seat back after revising the corner padding. Front seat back, ready for assembly to the cushion: The 1958 Buick foam seat cushions were among the earliest applications of molded urethane foam seating components. The Special models retained the traditional spring and pad designs for the seat cushions and backs. The Century, Super, Roadmaster and Limited models were equipped with foam seat cushions, but retained "spring and pad" seat back pads with rubberized horsehair pads. I disassembled the seat frame and cleaned and painted the steel structure. Since the cushion frame had some surface corrosion, I used a more aggressive treatment and then painted the frame black. I inserted a stiff reinforcement layer of woven carpet material between the springs and the foam layer, hog-ringing the carpet to the zig-zag springs to ensure that the underlayment would not shift with occupant entry/egress. The carpet replaces the original layer of cotton burlap, which had long ago lost its ability to support the foam and isolate it from the springs. New foam is installed, along with a layer of non-woven cotton/poly felt to retain the rear edge of the foam to the frame. The felt also acts as an insulator/isolator between the rear section of the trim cover and the "bar cover", or rear bottom section of the frame. The foam is trimmed to shape and "skived" or contoured at the perimeter to give a smooth appearance of the cover after assembly. I have found that an electric carving knife works great for shaping and contouring the urethane foam. The pink chalk mark highlights the center of the frame and the center of the trim cover. I always start in the center and work outwards from the center to establish and maintain the proper cover position on the seat. Like the original design, I added a layer of padding and burlap above the foam, then applied the trim cover: The first step in retaining the cover was to hog ring the rear "tie-down" to the lower portion of the seat frame, just beneath where the forward edge of the seat back would eventually be positioned. Then, working out from the center, hog-ringing the perimeter of the cover to the frame. After building up the assembly, I determined that I needed additional padding to get the required comfort, fit and appearance. The cover was too loose on the pad assembly. I removed the cover from the frame and added a thin layer of padding over the entire seating surface, with additional layers around the perimeter to provide a more full looking perimeter. The second build-up was much improved Attaching the seat back to the cushion is accomplished with 6 - yes, 6! - 1/4-20 bolts. Adding the ash tray and robe cord to the seat back: It took 3 of us to maneuver the seat into the car, but we managed to position it without any injuries or damage: It will be challenging (impossible?) to install the seat side panels in the vehicle, but the side panels are still at the anodizer's facility. If necessary, the seat will be removed to allow installation of the aluminum trim panels.
  6. Guys, this car was posted for sale in 2011.
  7. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    Things have been moving quickly as I prepare the car for its maiden show. It will be displayed at the Detroit Autorama on March 1-3. Early in December, I visited my friend Pat who has been working on the seat trim. He had completed most of the covers and we planned to install the covers onto the frame & spring units. He had researched the correct appearance for the covers. Images of interiors of several other cars showed that there was a lot of variation in the way the trim covers were sewn. For example, these seats look "overstuffed" and the french seams at the corners do not line up with the outboard stitch lines on the insert areas: This seat has better contours, without the overstuffed look, but the upper (red) panel goes straight across the seat, instead of curving downward at the outboard corners: Here is the 1/3 section of the rear seat back. The short , angled french seam aligns perfectly with the insert stitch line and the corner of the tan and beige joint. The upper edge of tan/beige joint is contoured to match the images in the 1958 Buick color and trim book and images of original interiors. This is the initial test fit of the 2/3 folding rear seat cushion. Shape looks good, corners and edges still need some finessing: Looking better! Here, I am beginning to assemble the 1/3 section of the rear seat back. A perimeter wrap of non-woven polyester will help retain the shape of the side facings. Together in the car for the first time. I'm not happy with it, so I will disassemble it and start over. But my granddaughter gave it her approval for comfort!
  8. 95Cardinal

    Large Garage concrete sealing.

    If I were doing a new floor, I would probably go with polished concrete. Here's some work done by a company in Atlanta: https://flawlessgrind-polishflooring.com/projects/ This is what you see in many commercial and industrial facilities.
  9. 95Cardinal

    1969 GTO Judge Convert

    What a combination... 68 grille, 69 Endura bumper (or possible a 68 with the arrowhead emblem holes filled), 69 front valence & park lamps, 69 instrument panel and seat covers, 68 quarter markers as mentioned, 69 deck lid and bumper. If only these cars could talk...
  10. 95Cardinal

    Deduction for Flare O Flames

    Skip the imitation flames and go for the real deal! This is Bob Fryz' "Sh-Boom": But, it'll cost more than $4 every time you light 'em up! And don't forget extra fire extinguishers....
  11. 95Cardinal

    1958 Caballero

    I had to delay making the quarter trim panels until the rear door trim panels were finalized. The two-tone split line on the quarter trim should align with the 2-tone line on the doors, so I had to confirm that location before making the quarter trim. I marked the location of the 2-tone split on the rear of the rear door opening and used that to finalize the trim patterns for the quarter. This is the preliminary assembly of the quarter trim, for mock-up in the car. And in the car: I still need to add one decorative stitch line, above the color split. Just waiting for my friend to wrap up the seat covers so I can use the proper color thread for these pieces. I've learned to take lots of photos and notes when disassembling a project. I also try to retain as many original parts as possible, just in case they can be useful. These remnants of the quarter window gaskets came in very handy. The witness marks on the outer surface indicated the correct orientation of the exterior molding clips and the dimensions of the gasket helped indicate how much material had to be removed and where it had to be removed. I used a fresh razor knife blade and a disc sander to shape the gasket. It took many iterations, removing only a few shavings each time, to get the gasket to fit into the opening. When the glass and gasket could be fit tightly into the opening, I removed the gasket from the glass. I applied a bead of bedding compound into the glass channel of the gasket and re-inserted the glass into the gasket. A small amount of bedding compound is visible at the gasket edges: With a bead of bedding compound applied to the inside of the quarter window and some liquid detergent as a lubricant on the gasket, it was finally time to install the glass. The glass is retained by 4 stamped retainers on the inside on the body. The exterior reveal moldings are retained by a variety of clips and threaded rods. With the exterior moldings installed, the interior garnish moldings are next. At the front of the quarter window, the C pillar trim consists of one painted steel garnish molding, a vinyl-wrapped trim panel, the polished aluminum roof rail molding plus a cloth windlace. The vinyl-wrapped panel is installed first and is visible as a sliver of dark tan between the upper steel trim molding and the polished aluminum roof rail trim. Originally, I had wrapped the steel panel with a single layer of cotton felt and the vinyl cover, which was exactly as the original piece was constructed. The part was too thick and it couldn't be loaded properly under the edge of he headliner panel. I had to remove the layer of padding and re-apply the vinyl directly to the steel substrate. I had not realized that the new vinyl was significantly thicker than the original material; with the padding removed, everything could be properly installed.
  12. 95Cardinal

    What did you get for Christmas this year?

    And here's the proof! Click on the image, then click on the "Play" arrow if the video doesn't automatically start.
  13. 95Cardinal

    52 Super Estate Wagon model 59

    Yes, those arms are the front pivots for the folding rear seat. The seat bottom (cushion) folds forward and the seat back folds down to create a flat surface that extends from the tailgate to the back of the front seat.
  14. Doug, if you want the rad checked out, I can highly recommend Ferndale Radiator. http://ferndaleradiator.com/ Mel is the 3rd (or 4th?) generation owner in that operation.