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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. Two other shipping options for large or heavy parts: Greyhound - you have to drop off and pick up at a bus station. I have shipped tires and fuel tanks this way for very low cost Fastenal - you have to drop off and pick up at one of their locations. I have shipped engines this way. You have to box or palletize your shipment.
  2. This is not necessarily a simple answer. The 1920 – 1922 Studebaker Light Six used a standard Morse Timing Chain (p/n 43567) with a 14-tooth accessory shaft sprocket (p/n 43309), a water pump shaft gear (p/n 43365) and a distributor gear (p/n 43873). For 1923 and 1924 the Light Six switched to a Morse Type 45 Timing Chain (p/n 120007) with a 15-tooth accessory shaft sprocket (p/n 120012), a water pump shaft gear (p/n 120010) and a distributor gear (p/n 120013). The water pump shaft gear is what I would call the distributor support housing drive gear and the distributor gear is what I would cal
  3. 1923 was the first year of an all steel body by Studebaker (stamped by the Budd Company) and that was in the Light Six Touring car. That’s what the doors are from. They hinge from the front. BTW - the door latch mechanism was made by Briggs and Stratton. Scott
  4. I’ve restored and readjusted the Remy ones that Studebaker used. They have a cover that is removed with a single screw. Once inside you can easily adjust the cut in and cut out voltages. If I recall, the internals of the Wagner did not have adjustment screws so you have to bend the arms to get the voltages set. I’m guessing the generator in a 1926 is good for maybe 10-12 amps so you don’t need a huge diode. You could reach out to Jason Smith from Advanced Electrical Rebuilders for some advice or just have him do the conversion. http://www.aerrebuild.com/index.
  5. For the the higher efficiency motors it requires rare earth elements like neodymium which requires an intensive refinement process. The power electronics requires tin, tantalum, tungsten and gold- all require mining and processing. While we make motors and power electronics today, we have to ramp up production of these which will require significant increased needs of all these elements. There is no free beer with switching to “environmentally friendly” EVs.
  6. If we change “pollution” to “environmental impact”, the EV benefit is further reduced by the negative impacts created by the manufacturing of the batteries, electronics and motors which require a lot of environmental resources which are in limited supply. My point is EVs are no panacea. Just like bio ethanol fuels, there are a lot of trade offs when you look at the entire picture. EVs will have their place as will some fully autonomous vehicles and ICE vehicles.
  7. I have this one but like every other one I’ve had, it is inoperative. Unlike the Remy cutouts, the Wagners were not meant to be serviced. You can cut the welds on the housing and use a diode inside then reassemble to keep the original look.
  8. You should be able to pick p/ns you need from this I find these assembly type pictures the most helpful but not too many for the Series 16
  9. I couldn't agree more. I just installed a new set of tires on my 1968 Pontiac Tempest. I had to order the tires since no one seems to carry 205/70R14s with a 3/4" whitewall. I took it to the "best" place around me. They're basically modern tires- how hard could it be? I specifically mentioned the valve stem length and make sure they are correct so they stick through the wheel cover - no, they screwed that up. I specifically discussed protecting my 3/4" whitewalls - tore one of those. No pride in work - just get it out the door. When I restored my 1923 Studebaker, I did all the w
  10. It's the air pressure inside the tire that holds the bead in place during cornering - doesn't really matter if there is a tube in there or not. If your tire is at the proper pressure the bead will stay in place, regardless of having an older rim. I run Diamondback radials on my 1939 LaSalle with no tubes and it corners quite fine. Now, if you want to argue that underinflated tires will start to unbead at high corner loading and all it takes is a little bit of unbeading to immediately deflate your tire without a tube, then I can buy in to your argument. I make it a point to check my inflation
  11. The little car that gave REO the bump start it needed in 1906 will be at the HCCA kick off for their museum on the campus of the Gilmore Car Museum compliments of the Lansing based R E Olds Transportation Museum in July. https://hcca.org/calendar-celebration-of-brass/
  12. What!? No "Godfather" fans? Sure, not a car film but has some great car scenes in it. Maybe it's overlooked since it is the best film ever made and you can only get so many accolades.
  13. Top failure - condenser. I know you tried three so probably not that. Next failure is a bad coil. Next failure is bad points. Just because you put in new doesn't mean they are right. I suggest getting a NOS set, as I previously suggested, or at least check the spring pressure. Maybe you already did this.
  14. I suggest looking around on eBay. This 284-Y looks to have a little different base that is clocked about 90 degrees off of the 284-S. The 284 series coils are built the same internally but the suffix number generally refers to variations in the high tension lead connection, base mounting and clocking of the coil. If your high tension lead can be mounted 90 degrees off nominal one way or the other, then this coil may work for your car. Of course, it may not function at all - that's the gamble buying old parts. I've had a number of these over the years and they all worked - some had a bit st
  15. I have this one. Send me a PM with some contact info and I can send it to you. Scott
  16. I really doubt the timing all of a sudden changed, so I wouldn't mess with that just yet. I had a similar issue on my 1939 V8 LaSalle and racked my brain as it sure seemed to be fuel related. It behaved similarly....would idle fine and run fine at higher rpms but as soon as you took it for a drive and put some load on the engine it would start dying out it as you tried driving faster. It turned out the spring pressure on my point set (which was new) was very low compared to the old set. I looked up the specifications and did my best to measure the spring load and it showed low.
  17. You should come to the "Cars and Coffee" type event on May 1st or June 5th (8-10am and 1/2 off)
  18. https://www.reoldsmuseum.org/ The RE Olds Transportation Museum is located in downtown Lansing, MI and is dedicated to Ransom Eli Olds and Lansing’s contributions to the automotive industry. It walks you through the early stationary engines of the late 1800s, Olds’ early development of steam (1883), gasoline (1896) and electric (1899) vehicles and the formation of Olds Motor Works which employed the first use of a progressive assembly line for automobile production. It then covers Mr. Old’s second car company, the REO Motor Car Company and when Lansing, for a short time, became th
  19. Personally I would just use a decent brand straight weight like SAE 30 and save your money. ZDDP wasn’t even around when your car was built. It wasn’t until high compression engines with high valve spring pressures were designed in the 1940s to support the war that the additives were needed. Post war automobile engines began to be introduced that used the learnings from the war to create more power and those engines required a balanced zinc and phosphorus content to reduce wear issues. Running a high ZDDP content oil won’t hurt your engine but it certainly isn’t needed. What will hurt is addin
  20. I have a spare I’ll give up. Just PM me an email and we’ll get it figured out. BTW “edinmass” on this forum can test a coil for you if you find one on eBay. He graciously offered that up to forum members.
  21. It’s the cam in the center but you have the incorrect rotor. It should be offset to the left as pictured. Also pictured is an original Light Six condenser for reference
  22. Dave, You want a Remy 284-A coil. They come up on eBay often (none currently). Attached is a picture of one. There are a number of variants of the 284 model which are mostly differences in high tension lead (socket vs clip), base mounting and orientation of the flange mount base. The only issue on the flange mount orientation is it will sometimes put you high tension lead facing 90 degrees one way or another (284-L, 284-D) and you have to wrap the high tension lead to meet it - they will work fine and you'll be the only one that knows. So, if you want the exact model, then a 284-A but s
  23. Remy 626A or a Wagner K97. Sounds like your Remy base plate is failing (Remy p/n 11301). Common failure. https://www.classicandexotic.com/store/p-783-delco-distributor-upper-housing-stutz-and-studebaker.aspx I’m pretty sure these folks are out of business but they were selling off inventory.
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