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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. I wasn’t aware that the early Studebakers had an issue with the oil pump gears. There are lots of cars driving around with original gears. Up until 1925 they just used splash lubrication so the pump just flowed oil around and there was little stress on those gears. It wasn’t until full-pressure lubrication that an upgrade was needed.
  2. The drive gear (p/n 16944) and the idler gear or driven gear (p/n 16946) we’re both die cast and used from 1916-1919 on all models and from 1920-1924 on the Special Six and Big Six models. In 1925, the gears were changed to steel (p/ns 110599 and 110600) but the entire pump was modified so they probably are not interchangeable with the die cast parts. Scott
  3. Checked my books from 1913-1925 and it looks like the oil pump was unique for 1916-17. Scott
  4. The Light Six (EJ Model) started production in 1920 with an aluminum head, aluminum timing chain cover, aluminum accessory support housing, aluminum fan support and aluminum distributor support but, more importantly, it had Studebaker's first "modern" monobloc engine design that was used for the next 10+ years. The Light Six was their base model car of their three model line up, followed by the Special Six and Big Six. In 1923, the Light Six received a number of improvements and was given a new model designation of EM. The 1923 Light Six Touring Car was Studebaker's first all metal body which was stamped out by the Budd Company in Philadelphia and rail shipped to South Bend. That same year, about mid-way in 1923, the engine was redesigned to eliminate the aluminum head and replace it with a cast iron design which required design changes in the block also. The reason for the change is as you suggested, too many issues, especially with the early aluminum castings. The car for sale has a cast iron head so, it is a late 1923 build. 1924 was the last year for the model. My 1923 Light Six has an original aluminum head. I have a several thousand miles on it now with no issues (knock on aluminum),but my spare head has a weld repair as you can see in the photo. They are really thin castings over the combustion chamber. The aluminum head also acts as an intake manifold which Studebaker patented as a "hot spot" to help vaporize the stuff they called gasoline back then. If you follow the flow it runs through the head and makes a u-turn through the block. Scott
  5. Late 1923 Light Six. Lots of issues - looks like very amateur restoration done on it at some point. From these pictures I see….missing splash panel under the front of the radiator, wrong tail light, wrong headlight lenses and the trim rings don’t look right, running boards missing cut outs for shackle oilers, genny and cutout relay missing some parts, wrong horn and mount, someone added a key start, handles broken off light/ignition switch, rear foot rest missing, wrong interior door panels and rear carpet, missing interior door handles, incorrect robe rail, missing several trim pieces on the front toe board that wrap the pedals, missing the top bow holders and it just doesn’t look like enough top under that boot, engine is the wrong color, body paint job doesn’t look very good in the photos which means it must really be bad, the rock behind the rear wheel doesn’t inspire confidence in the brake system. I like the duct tape holding the fan belt together. I hate to be the Debbie downer so on the plus side…..it does have the disc wheel option.
  6. Hi Scott, You are in a good place to start but you will eventually want to post in the "Buy/Sell" section too. If you want to garner any interest for the car, then I would highly suggest some photographs and a price accompany your post. If you are looking for help with value, then this Studebaker forum is the right spot to start.
  7. For 1913, both engines were offered. The 5 passenger Model E had the 32hp 4 cylinder and the 7 passenger Model G had the 49hp 6 cylinder.
  8. Interestingly, the engine features full-pressure lubrication which is pretty early for that innovation. He is asking $50,000. https://video-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t42.3356-2/243081133_4482801225096274_8457848196940148532_n.mp4/video-1632619148.mp4?_nc_cat=103&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=060d78&_nc_ohc=qwVScmhw_WAAX_4qvdN&vabr=2593632&_nc_ht=video-ort2-2.xx&oh=9a5155ae871f80d1158b02114386c33b&oe=61510598&dl=1
  9. This car has been sold. I attempted to purchase it but apparently, that same day, the local mailman mentioned it to the owner's neighbor down the road (who didn't know about it) and he bought it. I'm switching to UPS!
  10. NLGI rating is basically the “stiffness” of the grease. The additive packages differentiate the properties. Not all 00 greases are created equal. The EP properties are different depending on application. A steering gear box has a lot of high contact pressure sliding friction. Personally I don’t mind paying a bit more for something formulated for that. Maybe it’s all hype but steering box fluid is once and done so a few extra bucks is piece of mind for me.
  11. I used the Penrite 1200w Steering Gear Lube Since it is a semi-fluid it is hard to get in. I used two methods to help. One was to put the container in super hot water and use gloves to handle it and it will pour- still thick though. The other was using a syringe - they sell a “drench” syringe at farm supply stores that works pretty well. Doesn’t have a needle…has a decent diameter plastic tip. I thought about combining the two methods next time. Scott
  12. One of the primary advantages of the hypoid gear is to move the driveshaft down lower to allow the body of the car to be lower with a flatter floor. So unless you need to modify the body to either lower it or flatten the floor, there is no benefit there. Another benefit of the hypoid is the pinion gear is larger along with the gear contact area which allows for greater strength. So, for the same size differential housing you can run more torque through the unit. This might be important to you if you planned to put in a higher horsepower engine. The down side of the hypoid vs a spiral bevel is that you get more sliding friction at the gear teeth interface which requires special, extreme pressure (EP) additives to the gear oil, necessitating using a GL4 or GL5 (preferred) rated "Hypoid" oil. A hypoid makes more heat and is also less efficient than a spiral bevel - both of which go in the wrong direction with higher offsets.
  13. I would still do the spark plug grounding test. Just use a wire with alligator clips and ground one plug at a time, do a quick drive and accelerate and see if one of the plugs makes a difference. It's not going to run so great on 5 cylinders but it's just a noise test. If you find one where the knock goes away then you know what cylinder to go after to dig a bit deeper.
  14. Just to expand on what Ed suggested....If there is too much clearance in one particular connecting rod bearing, you may get a knock vs a tick. What you are doing as you ground each spark plug is eliminating the downforce on the connecting rod and rod bearing at the crank during the power stroke. If you do a have bad rod bearing, you will generally hear a change in the level of knock. It may not totally go away but it should be a noticeable change. I would just use screwdriver to ground each plug to the head (make sure it has a well insulated handle). Another reason an engine may knock is too much spark advance so you should try fully retarded vs advanced or just put a timing light on it and verify you have correct ignition timing. Also, do you notice the knock getting worse when you apply more power? Like when you open the throttle rapidly at idle (you don't need to hold the throttle open and keep it revving, just during the time you are accelerating the crankshaft). Good luck!
  15. Fusick carries some trim parts https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/
  16. The brake lining is available from a number of vendors - just do a google search. For my brakes and clutches, I've used the Clutch Doctor 40167 Flink Ave, North Branch, MN 55056 (651) 674-4175 Super helpful, great work and prices are crazy reasonable. He may be able to help you out with lining material if you are set on doing the work yourself. I suggest giving him a call and checking on options. Scott
  17. Well it's easy if it is the entire engine - It will have 'Cadillac' cast in the heads, the water outlets in the heads would be completely different, the distributor would be a water tight design and would have an rpm drive and many have no fan provisions or dipstick breather tube provisions which require a little modifying. It looks as though this may only have the tank engine block (sorry, missed the engine photo in the listing). In that case it is more subtle. The serial number for the 1941 should be located on the left side rear of the engine next to the distributor whereas the and tank engines (and 1942 cars and later) will have an added flat boss above the water pump that has a serial number that will correspond with none of the car serial numbers. So, yes, you can tell it isn't the original engine if you know what to look for. Does it matter all that much? Not really. I'm sure it's a great car and drives as well as my 1939 LaSalle, but if I was spending $62K (which I consider top dollar), I would want a car I could say is original and doesn't have a later model block. That's me though. I don't really know what the price point is that would sway me personally. BTW - I really appreciate you searching around and listing all these "For Sale - Not Mine" vehicles. It's kind of like a free search service to all of us on the forum that I don't think you get enough kudos for. So - "THANK YOU and all the others that post here!"
  18. Really nice car but I think the non-original engine (which is a V8 by the way) takes it out of the running for top dollar though. The tank engines are fairly easy to spot for a Cadillac enthusiast so if you are looking for show quality (part of the top end price tag) you’ll lose some points.
  19. Otto’s Gas Engine Works for the rings http://www.ringspacers.com/ Egge for the valves https://egge.com/
  20. Originally your car would have come with AC Titan SAE-T plugs which are really hard to find unused. I use Champion 1-COM plugs but it will run fine on the colder 0-COM or hotter 2-COM. I find them on eBay all the time - NOS or unused. The 1-COM and 2-COM date back to the mid 1930s. You can occasionally find some Splitdorf 7/8 SAE Standard plugs dating to the 1920s for the most period correct look. Alternately, you can use the newer Champion W-14 or Autolite 3076 (same heat range as 1-COM) or W-18 (same heat range as 2-COM).
  21. 1920-mid-1923 Studebaker Light Six (EJ and EM). The aluminum head is interchangeable for all these model years. Halfway through the 1923 production run, they change to the cast iron design which also changed the block, intake/exhaust manifolds, and carburetor from Stromberg OS-1 to Stromberg OE-1. The Antique Studebaker Club is primarily the pre-war club and uses this AACA forum as their own. The Studebaker Driver’s Club is primarily the post-war club. The Light Six was the high volume car and had the modern engine design which carried info future Studebaker models and went to full-pressure lubrication in the 1925 Standard Six. BTW- Studebaker also had a Light Six EH model in 1919. That is a totally different car so don’t confuse it with the EJ and EM models. It was more like a Special Six.
  22. Let us know what you find out. A few of us that drive our cars a lot may be willing to buy a spare which may help get the cost down a little. I’m just waiting for the day that number 1 cylinder cracks across the top of my original, weld free head. Most heads I see have a weld in that area or across a couple of cylinders.
  23. There might be. It would most likely be in a bin that has other gauges.
  24. Just to interject here....the evening was similar to the show "Drunk History" on the Comedy Channel 🤪
  25. I’m pretty sure I sold all I had. Sorry. Scott
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