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ply33

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Everything posted by ply33

  1. Apparently yes. From https://dirtbikemagazine.com/remember-the-honda-elsinore/: “They were given the Elsinore name because of the race that was immortalized in the 1971 film On Any Sunday.” From https://www.rideapart.com/news/245811/honda-trademarks-elsinore-what-does-it-mean/: “The name obviously traded on the famous Elsinore Grand Prix, the California desert race that attracted all the fast off-road riders in the 1960s, including Malcolm Smith and Steve McQueen. Using city streets as part of the race course certified Lake Elsinore with the status of legend when it was featured in Bruce Brown’s epic film On Any Sunday in 1971.”
  2. I concur with @JACK M. Way back when, during the era of the 55 MPH speed limit, I pulled a small utility trailer loaded with all my spare car parts, including heavy stuff like extra transmissions, from Maryland to California with my 1933 Plymouth. I never weighed the trailer but am guessing maybe 1000 lbs. My biggest issue was lack of braking. You are talking a newer car than mine with more brake area surface (they increased the width of the drums after mine was built) so stock brakes in good condition will be better than mine were. So I think you are likely to be okay if you have a lightweight boat and trailer. That said, drum brakes are prone to fade and you don’t have power assist. So I can see where a brake update could be reasonable but since this AACA forum is targeted toward originality you will probably get more information on that following the advise of @plymouthcranbrook and head on over the the forums at https://www.p15-d24.com/
  3. Welcome to the retired engineers club. I’ve been in it for about 8 years now.
  4. It is not an electrical device what might have some partial short to ground causing rapid swings. It’s a pressure gauge measuring the vapor pressure of the ether in the bulb. If the needle is moving that quickly that means the pressure is changing that quickly and that means ether in the bulb in the head is heating and cooling that quickly. No other way around. Per @Pete O it could mean that the bulb is sometimes in hot water and sometimes in steam because the back of the block/head is filled with crud.
  5. I wouldn’t. That capillary tube is pretty fragile and if it is working at all, which it apparently is, then it is very likely to be reading correctly. The suggestion by @DonMicheletti is simply and can’t hurt. The next easiest is to pull and check the thermostat. After than I would follow @Pete O and try to get the block and head cleaned out. Pulling that sensing bulb and the capillary tube is the last thing I would do (been there, broken that).
  6. I don't know much about Buicks of that era but the typical temperature gauge of that era is a “mechanical” unit. It has a bulb filled with ether in the engine and a small capillary tube going to the dash unit. The dash unit is basically a pressure gauge, the higher the temperature in the engine the higher the pressure of vaporized ether. If your Buick has that type of temperature gauge then you can be sure that the rise and fall in temperature is really happening in the engine. First place I would look would be the thermostat(s) located on the engine on the hose(s) going to the top of the radiator.
  7. I think @Bloo has it correct. I do not have an extensive library, but from what I have the earliest shop or repair manuals with torque specifications were published in the 1940s. Since the Plymouth 6 cylinder engines in the early 1940s as basically the same as the 1935 engine (and similar to the 1933 & 1934 engines) those later books sometimes give values for the engines from the mid-1930s. See: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque For the 1932 and earlier vehicles I have never seen published torque specifications. However all is not lost as there are published torque specifications for fasteners based on size, thread pitch and grade. My “go to” for that information is a mid-1980s Machinery’s Handbook which is simply a huge fine print reference book for machinists with all sorts of information about machining and assembling mechanical things. So you can look up the bolts, studs, nuts, etc. by size and see what the torque values are. I haven’t checked but I bet there is a later edition of that book available new or you could pick up an old one from some used book vendors. The caution there is that I suspect that lots of things that now use grade 4, 5 or stronger fasteners probably used grade 1 or grade 2 back in those days. For example the compression ratio of the 1932 engine is probably about 1/2 of that for a modern engine so they did not need as much clamping force to seal the head and might have used common grade 1 or 2 studs, not special hardened ones. If you still have the original fasteners then you might be able to test them for hardness and guess what grade they were so you know what to look up in the machinist’s handbook.
  8. If his tool is set for the smaller clearance then he can set the larger clearance at the same time by having a feeler gauge between the tool and the shoe. I am lucky to have picked up an AMMCO 1750 tool a long time ago. Even with that tool, I find it easier to set it once for the smaller clearance then use a feeler gauge to set the larger clearance. Yikes! I just did a quick search on AMMCO 1750 and am astounded at the asking prices I am seeing. Maybe I ought to move mine out of the garage and into a safety deposit box.
  9. Please accept my heartfelt apology for suggesting that you perform a compression test.
  10. Neither Gottlieb Daimler’s nor Wilhelm Maybach’s daughter but rather Mercedes Jellinek, daugher of Emil Jillinek. See: https://www.mbscottsdale.com/blog/where-did-the-name-mercedes-come-from/ Dr. Ferdinand Porsche probably didn’t consider himself to be female. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferdinand_Porsche The Kia Sedona is indirectly named after Sedona Schnelbly the wife of the first postmaster of the town of Sedona which was named after her. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sedona_Schnebly
  11. Wow! Could valve stems bend that much from just heat or did they make contact with something?
  12. I believe that they used those same strike plates for a lot of years. And even lots of other makes (the indeterminate vintage Chinese trucks I saw in China in the 1980s had identical looking parts). Anyway, here is a vendor that carries strike plates for a bit newer Dodge trucks: https://dcmclassics.com/interior-kits-seats-dash-parts-handles-knobs-gauges/1302-i-232-door-striker-wedge-plates-48-56.html There are probably other vendors but that is the first I found in my search. I can’t be sure all the measurements are exactly the same but they sure look close. If someone has the appropriate Dodge and Dodge truck parts books we could verify the part numbers are the same. Edit: It also would not surprise me if the Ford strike plates here were the same: https://www.macsautoparts.com/early_v8_ford_truck?p=carline%3A"early_v8_ford_truck"&pagetype=boolean&category-filter=Body Components>Body Hardware>Door Latches and Related&rows=30&view=grid&start=0
  13. Just went out and examined my '33 Plymouth more closely. Several things come to mind: First, the plate that the striker screws go into is floating so you can adjust the location of the striker. I actually just got mine on my passenger side door out of adjustment just now when I loosened the two screws holding to verify. Took me a couple of tries to get it back to where the door closed nicely. Second, I think the striker is made out of brass. Way back in the 1970s I had my driver side door open when I hit a bump. Not a good thing on front opening doors as your instinct is to grab the door to close it and the wind will throw it open and pull you out. I was lucky in not getting hurt and not having massive damage to the hinges or rear fenders, etc. Turns out the striker was badly worn. I used a brazing rod to add material and then filed to shape. Point being that you could, if needed, shorten the striker plate with a few swipes of a file if the floating adjustment is insufficient. Third point, at least on my car, moving the inside handle to the lock position extends the lock tongue just a little bit farther than the simple closed position. I always check that both doors are locked before driving the car just as a little extra insurance against ever having a door come open while moving.
  14. On my '33, your second image is fully latched. If my latch is on the intermediate position then my door edge is out about 1/4" from the body. I am not sure why the bothered to have two positions but it seems to be pretty common for the era.
  15. If you can pull this off (camera with wide enough dynamic range) then I agree. Unfortunately you might end up with either the view out the windshield blown or washed out or the interior too dark to see any details. I guess the answer, at least for us amateurs, is to try it and see how it looks. I would not be surprised if the pros add strategically located lights inside of the car to balance the inside and outside exposures.
  16. That sure looks like a neat contraption but is also looks older than the 1920s. A quick search turned up a website that mentions a more believable early 1900s for that and a Leyland steam lawnmower from the late 1800s so we are well over 100 years now.
  17. Interesting to read about precursors to today’s ubiquitous cup holders. The first car I got with modern style cup holders was a 2001. I know the 1992 Jeep Cherokee I had did not have them though mine was a stripped or base model. There was a more upscale trim with a center console that might have had them. So, in my mind, cup holders “came in” during the 1990s. But what do I know, I don’t buy a new car very often and usually get a lower trim version.
  18. May also want to check out the Slant 6 Forum: https://slantsix.org For what it is worth, the first car purchased new from the dealer that my family had when I was a child was a '61 Valiant station wagon. The image you posted brought that back to me.
  19. Maybe it is different elsewhere, but the gas stations in my area do not seem to have backup generators to run their pumps and billing systems: When the power fails it is not possible to purchase gasoline. I don’t know how others handle it, but I usually don’t fill my tank until it is 1/4 or below, so on average I have 3/8 to 5/8 of a tank of gas. Depends on car, but that would be between 80 miles (my old Plymouth) to 200 miles (my PHEV). From what I have read and my experience with my PHEV, EV owners (at least the ones who live in a house) typically top up the charge every night. With Time of Use billing the middle of the night is usually the cheapest time to “fill” the car. Just plug the car in when you get home and the scheduling built into either the car or the charger (or both) automatically starts charging when the price is lowest. If you have a fairly typical current model EV with 220 to 260 mile range and you have a longer than average 60 mile commute then when you get home you will have 160 to 200 miles of range left when you get your fire, flood, etc. evacuation orders. Not much different than for a gasoline fueled vehicle.
  20. Looks like 1933 Plymouth DeLuxe (engineering code PD) to me based on the mounting hardware and lack of "guide" on the lens. Diameter is correct though when I measure my buckets I am a little off from your 9" number. Twilite also supplied to GM and the 1933 Chevrolet and some GMC trucks into the late 1930s used nearly the same lens except the Chevrolet and GMC truck versions had "Guide" on the lens in addition to the Twilite logo.
  21. Chrysler created the Motor Parts Corporation in the early 1940s (possibly the late 1930s) to supply factory parts for repair and maintenance work. That was quickly shortened to MoPar and later Mopar. Anyway, there is no mention of Motor Parts Corporation, MoPar or Mopar in the 1920s or early 1930s. Does that mean that my 1933 Plymouth isn’t a Mopar vehicle?
  22. Speed kills range on an EV. The EPA range is based on a mix of highway and city driving so it can’t be relied on for long trips as the city part bumps up the average. There are a number of websites and/or YouTube video channels that perform 70 MPH range tests which might be a bit more realistic (weather and terrain not really controlled for). I don’t recall any of the EVs that caught my fancy as getting anywhere near 350 miles on one of those 70 MPH tests. Varies from one model to the next but I suspect that you can knock off 10% to 20% off a typical 250 to 300 mile claim getting you somewhere between 200 and 250 miles. And less than that, sometimes considerably less than that, for cold and/or inclement weather.
  23. Getting off topic but. . . I did write “Initial cost and finding an EV that fits your use case are big obstacles to EV adoption.” Your use case is not well matched to most current EVs.
  24. Near as I can tell looking at their specifications, nearly any EV being charged at nearly any location in the US will have a lower cost per mile for fuel than an internal combustion engine vehicle. Initial cost and finding an EV that fits your use case are big obstacles to EV adoption. On the grand scheme of things, the recent oil spill off the Southern California coast is only a drop in the bucket of the world supply. I suspect that any price hits due to this will be localized to California. Unless, of course, it is being used to justify some profiteering That is definitely in US dollars. Not sure where that photo was taken but there are a few spots going up California 1 between San Simeon and Carmel where gas has always been quite a bit above the state average, it would not surprise me if that photo was taken somewhere along that route. And California’s state average is quite bit above the national average. Just filled my daily driver at the local cheap gas spot with 87 PON for $4.259/gal. Since I have a PHEV I get a good comparison of cost per mile for internal combustion and for EV driving. With the MPG and M/kWh my car gets, charging at “super off peak” hours (midnight to 6 AM) gets me the equivalent of $0.90/gal gas. If I was on the other EV-TOU rate with my local utility it would be about $2.20/gal equivalent. In either case EV cost per mile is way less than gasoline cost per mile in my area.
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