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ply33

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Everything posted by ply33

  1. My reprint of a 1931 Chilton Multi-Guide shows both the 1928 Whippet 96 (4 cylinder) and 98 (6 cylinder) as using a GJ-57-86 timing chain. Looks like that same chain was used on the 1927 Whippet 96 but I don't see any other vehicles in that list that goes through 1930 as using that Chilton cross reference number. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.
  2. If only short pieces are needed, say less than a couple of feet, shoe laces are the same weave and can be used. You can work it open or more closed to cover a (small) range of required diameters.
  3. Wow! Restarting a thread/topic that is over 20 years old. The 1928-33 Plymouth Master Parts List shows the Model U for domestic US used either a Carter 130-S or a 130-A.
  4. The brake drums and hubs are riveted together into a single assembly. For front an incorrectly adjusted wheel bearing could allow the drum to come out of alignment. For the rear, an improperly tightened axle shaft nut would do the same.
  5. I don't know the answer to that but do recall that the '66 Dodge truck factory service manual I once had showed an oil bath air cleaner that was for use in dusty areas. But that was for a pickup truck back in the days when a pickup truck was not a life style statement vehicle for driving to the grocery store.
  6. Sounds like a situation similar to my wife's. She is semi-retired from graphic design. I say semi because she is retired except for one old client that really likes her work and occasionally sends her jobs. Her work setup is a Mac with 10.13 configured "just so" with the last version of the design suite that one could purchase before the company forced people on to a cloud subscription service. Unfortunately that old Mac died recently. So she got another Mac of the same vintage off eBay for a couple hundred dollars and we were able to wipe it back to its original OS 10.8 to assure no malware, etc. Then install OS 10.12 from Apple, upgrade that to 10.13 via the Apple Store, then migrate her old computer's stuff from the Time Machine backup. She doesn’t have a big budget nowadays what with only an occasional job from one client so spending big bucks for a new machine that would not run her old design purchased software made no sense. A couple hundred dollars was within reason though. Amazingly, Apple actually has disk images and instructions to clean install operating systems going back to 10.7 10.7 Lion was released in 2010 which is quite a long time ago for computers and operating systems.
  7. What vintage Mac do you have? Just poking around, it looks like FreeCAD can run on MacOS 10.12 Sierra. And MacOS 10.12 Sierra can run on late-2009 to mid-2010 Mac computers which are pretty old in computer years. OpenSCAD can run on an even older version of MacOS but it looks like it may be more of a progammer's hacking tool than something for people just wanting to design parts. I have no experience with either of those. The only CAD program I had was back in the Pre-MacOS X days running on a PowerPC Mac from a company now defunct. I guess I ought to see what it takes to learn enough of a CAD program to try printing some parts. But I seem to keep busy enough with other projects.
  8. So true. I spent 40 years in embedded software and firmware development so I have some knowledge of computers. The '82 Plymouth I owned definitely had a computer but the setup was pretty simple. If I recall correctly they called it something like an engine control unit but it was definitely a computer. 1991 I purchased a new Jeep Cherokee and, of course, got a copy of the factory service manuals for it. When I was reading through the manuals my impression was that the Cherokee was more of a rolling computer network more than a traditional car. A bunch of processing units connected with CAN busses, etc. I think when they started putting fancy displays and navigation into the passenger compartment is when people thought it started, but computers have been in cars for many decades now.
  9. You are looking for an 1158 bulb (dual contact bayonet base, 21cp for brake filament, 3cp for tail light). In the Chrysler parts books that would have a part number of 142449. If the pins were staggered (called “indexed” instead of “bayonet”) you would be looking for an 1154 bulb. See https://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/lightbulbs for a list of bulbs that might be useful for you vintage Plymouth. A quick check shows you can still get them through O'Reilly Auto Parts, NAPA Auto Parts and probably other local and chain auto supply stores.
  10. Having an higher octane than required should not damage the engine. The main thing it will do is lighten your wallet. The L-6 engines used in Chrysler product cars all had hardened exhaust valve inserts from the factory and do not need leaded gas. As a rule of thumb, the octane required is often the same as the compression ratio, so your pre-WW2 car the cheapest, lowest octane gas you can find at a normal gas station is more than good enough. If the rubber components in your fuel system are really, really old (like before 1990) then they may be damaged by some of the additives in modern gas. You can get rebuild kits compatible with modern gas for your fuel pump and you can replace the flex hose to the fuel pump. Some carburetor kits had rubber tips on the float valve, if your car had that then you will want to replace that too. But if the car has been driven at all regularly in the last 20 or 30 years these things have probably already been taken care of. Basically, buy the cheapest gas you can find and drive the car.
  11. For my old car, which is basically stock, I have built up a cross reference database with as many modern part number equivalents as I know about. If/when I need to get a part at the local auto supply store I can call ahead and ask for what I need by using their specific part number. Since my car is way too old to be in their computer that is about the only way to go for things like ignition parts, bearings, seals, etc. which are still available if you know what to ask for. For a car that has been modified, I imagine the same technique would work but that database would be car specific. In the highly unlikely event that I'd buy a modified car I would look to the previous owner to give me all the documentation on all the modifications. If they can't provide that information it would be even less likely that I'd consider buying the car. In your specific case, you might want to take your existing coil to your local better auto supply store and see if they can match it up. Once you have that match, record the manufacturer and part number.
  12. First they have to fool me into calling them back as I have all unknown numbers sent directly to voicemail.
  13. Very early Chryslers used different fittings and, I think, a special seamless copper tubing. My 33 Plymouth used steel tubing and modern double flare fittings. I believe your 31 Chrysler is more likely to be like my 33 Plymouth. I used Cunifer when restoring my car so I think it is okay. Cunifer has a slight copper color so it will look different to a judge. Functionally, you can use mix of steel and Cunifer. But old steel lines can rust from the inside out so I wouldn’t trust any original steel lines on the car. Replace them all!
  14. Back in the day the used top dressing. I don’t know what it was but suspect it was a rubberized paint of some sort. I don’t know what a modern equivalent would be.
  15. Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a Then and Now Automotive) offers engine mount revulcanizing. Or at least the used to.
  16. Might have been the truth a number of years ago, but it is fiction now. Coal is behind natural gas and even renewables for electrical generation. p.s. Those are not box cars either.
  17. The only “Michigan Left” I can think of is on the north side of Tucson at the intersection of Oracle and Ina. I only visit that area maybe once a year and the first time after they changed it from a standard left it really confused me. The only place I’ve come across diverging diamonds is in Utah. Feels odd but after thinking about how it works, it makes sense and I think I could get used to them if there were any around here that I used regularly. There is at least one “single point urban interchange” in California, near the San Jose airport (Phoenix, AZ seems to be a big place for them). I feel a bit uncomfortable each time I am at one. They are slowly converting some intersections around here to circles. Maybe someday people will learn how to deal with them.
  18. Apparently you didn’t get the memo that all cars built before WW2 were Fords and all cars built in the 1950s were Chevys. At least that seems to be what many outside the car hobby seem to believe. If I had a nickel for every time I was asked what year Model T (or A) Ford my 1933 Plymouth was, I’d have a lot of nickels. The surprising thing to me is the number of times that is asked at filling stations where the clearly visible hubcap on the spare tire says “Plymouth” and the also clearly visible YOM tags say 1933.
  19. +10 on this. +10 for these. There may be variations over the years based on how closed up the engine compartment is so I won’t extrapolate too much. That said, my '33 can be hard to start under two different conditions: If it has been sitting for more than about a week. In this case the gas in the carburetor evaporates and it takes a little while for the fuel pump to get enough fuel to the float bowl for it to start. If the ambient temperature is high, I’ve been running at high speeds long enough to get everything very hot, the fuel has high volatility, and I am doing a hot start (think starting after refilling the tank while on a long tour in 95+°F temperatures when I have been driving 60+ MPH). In this case the fuel in the gas pump seems to vaporize and it does not pump well. The car will start immediately but once the float bowl runs dry the engine stalls. A quick and dirty (or maybe clean) way to get going again is to pour a little water on the fuel pump. I have noticed that California gas is less a problem than Arizona gas which surprised me until I did some research and found that California sets limit on fuel volatility and non-CARB states don’t. A solution to both of those issues could be to install an electric fuel pump for priming.
  20. What is the compression ratio for those two engines? 1923 is a bit early for the Ricardo combustion chamber design in the US so it is likely that even though the two engines have the same displacement they have quite different compression ratios and thus different efficiencies. An internal combustion engine is basically Carnot Cycle engine where the hot gas to expand is created by burning a fuel/air mixture in the cylinder. The power/efficiency of a Carno Cycle is dependent on the amount you can expand the hot gasses, call it "expansion ratio". On an Otto Cycle gas engine the expansion ratio is the same as the compression ratio, so higher compression ratios deliver more power for the same fuel input. So it is not just a matter of displacement, it is also a matter of compression ratios.
  21. We happened to have an early 1960s Encyclopedia Britannica in the house growing up and the article in it on internal combustion engines had an interesting tidbit: Above about an 8:1 compression ratio an L-head (“flathead”) engine geometry made it difficult or impossible to avoid restrictions in the flow of intake mixture and exhaust gasses. Prior to the 1950s the octane rating of gasoline did not permit compression ratios as high as 8:1 so an L-head really did not have performance disadvantages compared to an overhead valve design. Once higher octane fuel was commonly available and you are taking advantage of that by raising the compression ratio above 8:1 then the L-head design is a liability and you move to overhead valves to get better breathing.
  22. When I left Arizona for college in Upstate New York our family car was 7 years old which I considered pretty new. I was astounded when I saw the parking lot at the Rochester airport and noticed there were no cars as old as our "new" car. And many of the "brand new" cars had visible rust. People complain about all sorts of things that remove older cars from the road but it seems to me that road salt scraps out a lot more cars than any "cash for clunkers" program ever did. I bought my '33 when in college. It was at the time 40 years old and was originally delivered to a dealer in Rochester so I suspect it spent all of its years before I acquired it there. And it had the rust damage to prove it. If I had more coin or been smarter I would have passed it by. I used the '33 as my only car for several years and drove it in many Upstate New York winter storms as well as a few in the mid-Atlantic after I was out of school. The 5.25x17 Sears Allstate tires, high ground clearance and relatively low power did quite well in the snow. It seemed to be much better in the snow than the '60s and early '70s cars with more power and wider tires even if those newer cars had snow tires and I didn't.
  23. As long as we are sharing YouTube video stories, the infotainment system stopped working on my 2004 Prius when it was 12 or 13 years old with nearly 200K miles on the car. Since the heater and air conditioning controls were part of the touch screen infotainment I really wanted to get it fixed. The dealer wanted to charge me about the Blue Book value of the car to fix it. Shopping around, there were some units in junk yards but no guarantees about condition, etc. So I resorted to the Internet in general and YouTube and found that my early production car had a solder mask issue that led to early failure on many cars. I guess I was just lucky that mine didn’t fail during the warranty period. Anyway that led to the discovery that there was a single pin on a single connector between two boards that was the usual culprit. And some other YouTube videos showed how to quickly disassemble the dash. After watching those videos it took me about 1 hour total to remove the infotainment system, disassemble it, reflow the solder on the one pin, reassemble and reinstall the unit. Since I already own a soldering iron my material and tool cost was zero and an hour is, for me, much shorter time than most of my automotive repairs. Worked find for another year or two unit a truck totaled the car. There are a lot of junk videos out there. But if you look around you can often find exactly what you are looking for on repair procedures on things that are new to you. WIth respect to blacksmiths in the old days, it is my impression from reading literature of the time that many were very mechanically inclined. It would not surprise me if many did a pretty good job fixing the cars that came their way. But I am also pretty sure that, like now, there were some ham fisted ones who did not have a clue about how to fix a horseless carriage.
  24. The parts database on my website is fairly complete for the "standard parts" (group 18 in at least some of the parts books). So even if your 72 uses a different nut than my car I may have the description of it for you. The look up is at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric and you can search by part number, part type code or description. Or you can just go to the standard parts section at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18 and look for your part number.
  25. Got a parts book for the car? According to the 1928-33 Plymouth Master Parts List, the manifold stud nuts for my 1933 Plymouth were Chrysler part number 114547. Looking that up in the standard parts list the description is “3⁄8-24 (21⁄64 thick) Plain brass, free fit, regular hexagon nut”. So for my car they should be brass. I strongly suspect that would be true for the '29 Chrysler 75 as well.
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