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About WPVT

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  1. The sediment bowl is full of gas, not sediment. The pump works fine when the engine is running, but doesn't suck or push gas when the engine is being turned over by the starter. I disconnected the inlet and outlet lines and checked, so I know that no suction was being created at low rpm's. Things are fine if there is leftover gas in the float bowl. Engine starts, runs fine. But if, perchance, the float bowl gets drained by someone trying unsuccessfully to start the engine for a period of time, then the pump doesn't have the strength to get gas back into the carburetor. No start, everything dry. Carb is fine, inlet needle etc. The problem is a pump that works OK at 1000 rpm, but not at 30 rpm.
  2. Am I correct that a mechanical fuel pump could be become marginal to the extent that it would run an engine fine, but could not suck or pump gas at the speed of a starter motor ? This is on a 1953 dodge flat head 6.
  3. Nice work and good advice. Thank you.
  4. Thanks C49er, I jumped the gun and bought tappet wrenches. I didn't want to get the cover off and find that I didn't have what I needed. Now I see they are so long they'll probably be in the way. So it goes... Thanks for the good advice.
  5. Does anyone have a favorite brand or type of ignition wires for a 50's era truck with a flat head engine ? The "original type" set I purchased has uninsulated connectors at the plug end that don't fit the plug terminal very well. Doesn't seem right that they should be difficult to get on, and then rattle around.
  6. Sounds like DIY floor mat heat forming is impractical.
  7. Molded rubber floor mats are no longer available for my 1954 Dodge C-1 pickup. There is a transmission hump, so flat matting won't lay very well. I am considering using a brush on bed liner such as Durabak on the hump and maybe firewall, and then flat floor mats for the driver and passenger feet areas. I'm a little hesitant, since the stuff sounds impossible to remove once it's on. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience along this line ? Could vinyl be heat molded in place ?
  8. I went ahead and installed the new needle and seat. Smaller orifice and no spring. The truck didn't run very well when I bought it, probably due to a number of things, not necessarily the spring loaded needle. I'll hang on to the needle with the spring, just in case. I just started the engine and it runs fine. I'll do some road testing (but no off-road testing). If the fuel bowl gets enough gas for the engine to do what's asked of it, and the needle doesn't stick, then I'll be happy. I have a feeling it probably would have worked OK either way. Thanks to both of you for your sound advice.
  9. Thanks CarbKing. So I am faced with the choice of using the inlet needle and seat that are already in the carb, or replacing it with the one that came in the kit. The existing needle has a blunt polished steel tip and the orifice is .116". It has a spring, and a small brass plunger that fit inside of the needle. It seats well and works properly. The replacement that came with the kit has a conventional Viton tip and an orifice of .090". It's a Dodge 218 engine with a mechanical fuel pump. It's a half ton pickup that will be driven on the road, with an occasional slow trip into a hayfield. Are either of these good choices ?
  10. Thanks. Is there a down side to having the needle spring loaded ? Will the incoming fuel be fighting the spring pressure ? In this instance, hard to believe the spring was a well informed retrofit. The truck just didn't get that kind of attention. The truck, by the way, is a 1954 Dodge C-1-B6.
  11. Should the inlet needle and seat in a Carter BB carburetor be spring loaded ? The carb is a DTE2. When I disassembled mine, a small spring and brass plunger fell out, which was a surprise to me. Most kits (and diagrams) don't include a spring. I am wondering if some do and some don't, and whether I should use the old spring with the new Viton tipped needle.
  12. I need to adjust the tappets on a 1954 Dodge 218 flat head. When I remove the side cover I'd like to have the right wrenches in hand. Can anyone tell me what size wrenches are needed ? I currently have no tappet wrenches in my tool box and I'd like to buy the right sizes ahead of time. Also, does anyone sell just the side cover gasket ? Thanks.
  13. WPVT

    Worn out door handles

    Rusty, I thought of that but had visions of the handle going up in flame like magnesium in high school science lab. I think I could fill and redrill the holes, but the problem is really the square hole being worn, as TinIndian pointed out. I'm not sure I could broach or otherwise reproduce a blind, square shaped hole after the filling the existing, worn one. Stay tuned...I'll experiment later this week. And thanks.
  14. WPVT

    Worn out door handles

    Thanks. I'm going to have to take a close look next opportunity and see why the handle was able to get that loose to begin with. The square hole must be pretty rounded over at this point is my guess. I'm going to review the different metal filled epoxies that are available. Some of them are designed for adding wear resistance to material chutes, etc., so they must have a certain kind of strength. Sort of like sintered metal. I would never use an epoxy to stand up on its own, or as a weld, but as a filler, it might hold up. I may also try tapping the spindle and using a flat machine screw instead of a pin. That way it would be holding the handle tight to the spindle. I like to try fixing what's there before I replace with another part. Just as a challenge.
  15. WPVT

    Worn out door handles

    Thanks. Who is the "handle man" ?