AHa

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About AHa

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/21/1956

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    NC
  • Interests:
    Antique cars of all years and shapes and sizes

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  1. Ok, I was wrong, I can buy a new tank for my truck. A google search turned up nothing but a call to Jim Carter produced a new tank for $380 with $180 shipping to my location.
  2. Thanks Matt. You are right on so many levels but I'm invested in this process now. It's me against the tank and I can't give up. Its a man thing. I'm sure you can understand. It is really foolish on my part but isn't that what it means to be a man?
  3. The reason I chose Red Kote is because of the many great reviews. Also the fact I could buy it at my local Oreillys. All the other coatings have some detractors and must be ordered. I am not saying my problem is Red Kote's fault; I don't know what problem I'm having yet but I think it is prudent to document the problem for other people trying to coat their tanks. I spoke with Damon Industries again this morning. The Chemist does not know what is happening but agrees that something is not allowing the Red Kote to adhere to the tank and the result is the Red Kote is repelled from those areas. She is recommending a 30 minute bath in Hydrochloric acid, 4 to 1 ratio, with a quick wash of Acetone afterwards. She said to never use phosphoric acid. So, I am getting pretty good at this now. Maybe I should start a business.
  4. OK, I have failed again. To recap, I had the tank sealed some thirty years ago and the sealer failed this year. I stripped the old sealer out using MEK, but the tank was clean other than the sealer. After stripping the metal was clean except for some surface rust. After treating with the Red Cote the first try I could see the tank was well coated but after a couple of hours there was spots with no sealer. Today, I recoated the tank after stripping the Red Coat out and again after sealing everything was well coated but after work I came home to find dry spots in the sealer. Something is chasing the Red Cote away. My next strategy is to restrip the tank and use some metal prep. I can't find a replacement tank for a 1940 Chevy pick up. The 1940 is really a one off year. The 39 is different and the 41 is different. Plenty of places sell 1940 car tanks.
  5. So I finally got all, the Red Cote out of the tank and resealed it. Red Cote may be the best gas tank sealer out there but it is extremely finicky. I noticed that even at 65 degrees it started skimming over quickly so it is a quick dry sealer and there is no time to dawdle. I suspect my experience is atypical but a word of caution is deserved. NEVER try to seal the tank when it is warm.
  6. So back in the early 90's the gas tank in my 1940 Chevrolet PU sprang a leak and my mechanic sealed it with some gas tank sealer. Fast forward to this year and the leak returned. So I went out and bought some MEK, stripped the old sealer out, and proceeded to recoat with Red Cote. I read where one guy thinned the Red Cote out and put two thin coats on instead of just one. I thought that was a good idea so I thinned the sealer, poured it in the tank, sloshed it about, and poured it back out. I looked in the tank and everything was well coated but an hour later it looked like there was air trapped in the rust and the air had escaped leaving small round areas with no sealer visible. So I thinned the remaining Red Cote and repeated the process. The problem began when the temperature had risen and the sun had chased my shade away. The second coat puddled inside the tank before I could get it back out. Red Cote will not dry once it has puddled and the gas will leach it out and gum up the carb. So now I had to restrip the tank of Red Cote because it had puddled. I am now pouring in the acetone, sloshing it about, and pouring it back out but each time I repeat this process, the acetone comes out red. Damon Industries informs me that all the Red Cote has to be removed because it will not stick to itself once you have tried to remove it. I am so frustrated with the whole process I can't see straight. It is looking like I'm going to have to buy 16 gallons of Acetone at $20 per gal, fill the tank up, then drain it out to get all the Red Cote out of the tank. I don't know if anybody makes replacement tanks for 1940 Chevrolet trucks. My tank overall is in good shape and I coated the outside bottom of the tank with POR 15 and there is no leak in the tank anymore. I just can't seem to get the Red Cote stripped out. I did a lot of research before choosing Red Cote and couldn't find any warnings not to use it in warmer weather. So there you go.
  7. AHa

    Radiator cap

    Perhaps $130 is too high? New price $115 or make me an offer.
  8. If you clean the outside of the metal felloe there should be a name stamped in the metal that will indicate the maker.
  9. That's a great starter kit. Now you need to find the car.
  10. I need an Atwater Kent rotor button for a 1922 Velie model 48.
  11. I need to find a new rotor button for my 1922 Velie. It is an Atwater Kent for a 7r continental motor. can someone provide with contact info for who is selling these parts? thanks
  12. Interesting read. I suspect the truth for many of us is somewhere in the middle. Personally, I couldn'y afford to play with cars if they didn't have value. The fact that I can buy basket cases, rebuild them and have the joy of bringing them back from the dead, then sell them and recoup at least most of my money, if not all, makes it worthwhile. We have been told that antique cars are a better investment than stocks for several years and all kinds of traders have speculated. Cars are bought on the east coast and sold on the west coast for a profit. Some years ago a friend restored a mid 30s Hudson coupe/ roadster. He took it to an action and got 60,000 for it. Turns out the auctioneer bought it and took it to the next auction where it brought 80. He no selled it and advertised it in the next auction where it brought a higher price but once again he didn't let it go. I think it finally brought around 120 and he let it go. Maybe those days are gone but how would I know? Why shouldn't I expect my car to increase in value?
  13. Greetings, It has come to my attention there are times that I don't know all I think I know. With that in mind, I'd like to ask a specific question concerning how to hand crank a car to start it. I have always cranked my T by grabbing the handle and spinning it as fast as I could, usually by first jacking up the rear wheel. However, I remember an instance years ago when I stayed late on the Hershey show field to see the cars being cranked to drive off the field. There was a Locomobile there of around 1910 vintage, a huge 6 cylinder car, and the man looked to be around 80. He set the levers on the column and then walked to the front of the car where he slowly rolled the crank over and the beast fired up. The question is: how much difference does the speed at which you turn the crank have to do with whether the motor starts? And thankyou for taking the time to respond, A
  14. Rather than toss out the Buick running gear willy nilly, why not check out what you have first. Lots of people have big ideas but few are able to bring their ideas to fruition. It is much easier to rebuild than it is to re-engineer. Without checking, you don't know what kind of condition your parts are. I would attempt to get the motor running, check the compression ratio, open up the trans and rear to see what the gears look like, etc, before junking everything. My two cents.
  15. AHa

    Radiator cap

    Really nice cap