ply33

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About ply33

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  1. Please give a source, my quick search has turned up nothing on this.
  2. I didn't see links in the above article but I think I've found the videos:
  3. There is a thread on these forums about the restoration of Daphne, a 1932 Dodge, that includes the rebuild of the Delco-Lovejoy lever arm shocks. That is a long thread so it might take some time to find the shock section in the thread but it is worth a read.
  4. I happen to have driven Prius vehicles (3 different generations) over the Grapevine on I-5 and on other mountain roads and freeways. I can assure you that if you have the cruise control set to anywhere near the speed limit you will have regenerative charging of the battery on the downhills. I can only assume that a full EV could do that much longer, that is recover more energy, than a hybrid (the hybrid battery gets full so the car starts to use engine compression and/or brakes to keep the speed down).
  5. There is a "cars and coffee" gathering at the local mall/shopping center in my town. They get several hundred cars showing up each Saturday morning. I attended once and found that there were a handful of original or restored to original older cars, maybe 6 or 8 including mine. Only two of those, including mine, were pre-WW2. There were a fair number of modifieds. But the biggest group seemed to be late model expensive and/or performance cars. The point for for the spectators and most people showing cars seemed to be who wrote the biggest check at the dealer recently. So basically lots of cars but none of interest to me or, I assume, many on this forum which is dedicated to original or restored to original vehicles. In my mind there is not much difference between owners of late model Corvettes, Mustangs, Ferraris, etc. getting together and owners of Teslas. Some may have slightly customized their cars with aftermarket appearance or performance parts but to me they are all "exactly the same except color." By all appearances, there are more people interested in those than in cars from 1900 through 1970. So we are a minority. Yikes! For a daily driver I want something that sips gas, is reasonably comfortable and, of course, reliable. My 2004 car averaged just under 45 MPG in the 201,000 miles I drove it. I'd still be driving it if it hadn't been totaled. My new car is averaging about 83 MPG so far at 25,000 miles. Though I see lots of them everyday, I can't imagine having a daily driver that got such lousy mileage and is hard to park because of its size. Yes, my '33 gets between 14 and 18 MPG depending on how it is driven, but that is basically a toy for when I feel like puttering around some back roads. Not something for going to work and doing errands in (though I do some errands in it when it isn't raining and the mood strikes me).
  6. Can't say about Seattle, but they are still running electric trolley busses in San Francisco: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trolleybuses_in_San_Francisco
  7. Does your buddy do that as a business? If so can you share the contact information? Thanks!
  8. It doesn't really matter when the car is plugged in: All the cars I've read about can be set to charge during specified hours. So you set your car to start charging at midnight no matter when you plug it in. I picked midnight as that is when the "super off peak" rates go into effect for "time of use" (TOU) billing for my utility. The nice thing about charging at home is you only have to charge enough for the miles you travel each day. Just plug the car in when you get home and it will be "topped off" the next morning. The energy needed depends on the efficiency of the vehicle and the distance you drive it. Looking around on the web it seems that 4 miles/kWh seems to be typical for current EVs. If you have a 40 mile round trip commute to work then you'll be putting in 10 kWh overnight. Assume you want to do that between midnight and 6 AM (that is when my local utility has the cheapest power when you are on a TOU billing plan) then you'll need 14 amps at 110 volts for 6 hours. That is far less than your home air conditioner draws in the afternoon and early evening. So one or even two EVs per household being charged during off hours could easily be supported by the current electrical system. If you decide to pay for a 220v home charging station which are typically capable of more than twice the output of the 110v ones (dedicated wiring rather than using a 15 amp outlet), you still are putting no more demand on the grid than your home air conditioner but you are doing it during off peak hours actually leveling out the load on the grid and making it easier for the utility to manage. And with a 220v charger you can put in something like 80 to 100 miles worth of charge per night. If you take a longer trip, up to 300 miles round trip for the better current EVs, then an overnight charge will still get you to work the next day. And little by little the car will charge itself up to full over the course of the next week or two. Or if you have a 220v charger you'll be topped back up in a few days. For trips longer than 300 miles you'll need to recharge on the road at a public charging station. The better currently shipping EVs can get a 80% charge in about 20 minutes. The point being you don't need a public charging station at every corner to fill up the car like you do with a gasoline powered vehicle. I am actually surprised that companies are bothering to put in charging stations that seem to be targeted for local driving where the big real need is for long distance driving. You don't need those charging stations: Most people will charge at home, much cheaper and more convenient. The need for public charging stations is mostly for long distance driving. It seems to me that most public or semi-public charging stations will be at restaurants that cater to long distance travel (like Harris Ranch on I-5) or at hotels and motels. For local driving there is very little need for a public charging station so I don't understand why places like WalMart are putting them in but I do understand why the appear to be totally unused even in my area where it almost seems every other car is a Tesla Model 3.
  9. My '33 Plymouth with a 6v electrical system and mechanical fuel pump will start reliably after being parked months. It can take a while if it has been parked a long time for the fuel to get pumped up to the carburetor, but it will start. On the other hand my 2017 with its fancy keyless locks always listening for the correct FOB to be in range and other always on electronics will drain its 12v battery in a couple of weeks of being parked. So if I'm going to be gone for a couple of weeks I put a battery tender on the new car and don't worry about the old car. Isn't that backwards of how it is supposed to be?
  10. At least on a few cars I've looked at in detail the fuel gauge is designed to be pretty voltage insensitive. Some work by measuring the difference in current going through a reference resistor versus that going through the sending unit. I am not as sure about the thermostatic type dash units but since the automotive electrical system suffers from pretty big voltage swings it would not surprise me if they were relatively insensitive to voltage too. With respect to the switch from ammeters to voltmeters, I suspect that it was cost. By the 1970s there were enough electrical stuff in cars (power windows, power seats, etc.) that higher currents needed to be handled. Cheaper and easier to put a voltmeter in that to put a much more expensive high current ammeter. And those cars that still had ammeters, like the '82 Plymouth I once had, started putting the ammeter on a shunt. In that particular case the connections on the shunt were prone to corrosion so after the car was a few years old the ammeter ended up measuring 0 regardless of what the alternator was actually doing. All that quibbling aside, I agree with you that a 6v car does not need and should not use a 8v battery.
  11. Looks like the typical form fit trunk offered on various Chrysler built makes in 1933. Very much like the optional one for the 1933 Plymouth for example. I haven't any idea about whether it was actually made by Chrysler or purchased from a component supplier by Chrysler.
  12. Per my page at https://www.ply33.com/Repair/lights listed above, I picked the 25 watt quartz-halogen because they draw just about the same power as the #1000s. At that time they also had a 35 watt quartz-halogen bulb but I thought that would be stressing the headlight switch and generator too much so I went with the lower wattage bulb. They still list a quartz-halogen bulb but I don't see the wattage rating on it. Their description is:
  13. Regular spares are a good idea. I've got several #1000 incandescent and one 25 watt quartz-halogen headlight bulbs in my spares. And I carry some of those spares in a small box in my car's glovebox.
  14. That is a question that I'd ask before buying. But it is my understanding that the basic high output LED chips have about a 3 volt drop. To make them work properly they need to be properly voltage and current controlled. So that hidden somewhere in the assembly is some circuitry that limits the voltage/current to the LEDs to the required 3v and maybe deals with polarity inversion (to allow a lamp to be used on both positive and negative ground vehicles). So the devil is in the details of that control circuitry and the description on that website says almost nothing about that.
  15. FYI, the top RHS looks like the ones on my '33 Plymouth.