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  1. Matt, Is there any fore-aft tilt in how you have the engine mounted in your test stand? I don’t know how your engine is fitted in the car but many of them have the front slightly higher than the rear which would help bleed any air from the back of the engine when you fill the cooling system. If you don’t have that then a pocket of air in the back would create a very hot spot which might blow the water out of the front of the engine. You have aluminum heads which are very good at transporting heat (which is why they use them for higher performance applications) so once some place in the engine gets very hot that heat will be transported across the whole top of the engine. Might not make any difference, but making sure that the fore-aft angle of your engine in the stand is the same as it will be in the car just to make sure any air can get out the way the factory intended.
  2. I missed that earlier. There is no way that an unpressurized system using water or water and a mix of antifreeze could get that hot which pretty much means there was no water there. So either all the water in that area vaporized very quickly and/or there wasn’t very much water in the upper water neck to begin with. So while I still wonder about valve timing (a compression check should show if it is way off) I am becoming sympathetic to the concept that there is a lot of air in the cooling system that shouldn’t be there.
  3. Definitely a puzzle. And I am no expert. I am wondering how the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe can get that hot that fast. Seems like there is combustion happening in there. There have been others speculating on ignition timing which seems a good guess. But I am also wondering about valve timing. Is there a way on that engine to check the valve timing without ripping everything apart?
  4. Also, like 31plymouth, I have never had much success using a one man vacuum bleeder. What has worked very nicely for me was making a pressure bleeder. For my car the reservoir is built into the master cylinder and the vent tube on top of it is a standard pipe thread, so I made an adaptor that replaces the vent. The 1929 uses a remote reservoir so my solution won’t directly work but maybe there is some other way of rigging a pressure bleeder on it.
  5. 31plymouth's photos, however blurry, show the setup if using the original bleeder screws. The original “Wheel cylinder bleeder screw”, part 77671, is drilled and tapped for a “Bleeder screw dust cap”, part 123291 (there is also a “Bleeder screw dust cap lock washer”, part 120380). Turns out that 123291 is simply a “1⁄4-28x5⁄16 Cad plated steel hexagon head cap screw” and 120380 is a “1⁄4 Cad plated steel lockwasher (standard)”. I made an adaptor with a 1/4-28 bolt (“hexagon head cap screw” using the parts book lingo) and some metal tubing by drilling a hole down the middle of the bolt then pressing the tubing into the hole. Or, alternatively, you can replace the original bleed screws with something like part 1263929 which was used on the P15 era cars and is readily available at places like NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP11410?impressionRank=1&keywordInput=up+11410
  6. Top looks good. Where did you get the material? It doesn’t look like the usual Model A cobra grained stuff. Maybe the angle or lighting but it looks closer to the original than I have seen for sale. I wonder if the padding around the metal edges of the insert make an issue getting it installed. . .
  7. Probably possible though I haven’t actually checked. . . Without checking maps, I think there are a fair number of back roads along the same corridor that I-15 uses between San Diego and Riverside. I know I can get from the Riverside area to around Escondido by reasonably back roads but haven’t actually tried from Escondido to San Diego. From Riverside, old US 66 will get you over the Cajon Pass to CA 138 where you can go west to pick up some back roads through Lake Elizabeth, Lake Hughes, then to Gorman on the Old Post Road and get into Frazier Park via Ralphs Ranch Road. West through Lake of the Woods and Pine Mountain Club onto Hudson Ranch Road to CA33/CA166. Either north on 33 to maybe CA 198 and then pick your way up the Salinas Valley. Or west on 166 to pick up some way along the coast until you get north/west of SLO where you then go up CA 1 to the Monterey Peninsula. A number of years ago I led a small group of old cars from San Jose, CA to Tucson, AZ for a car show. We made the entire distance without a single foot of freeway driving. Options are a bit limited in places, for example there is only one non-freeway route that I am aware of across the Colorado River which happens to be at Parker. (There is a non-freeway bridge in Yuma but, near as I can tell, on the California side you will need to be on a freeway for a while to access that bridge. And then east from Yuma presents some issues.) Figuring out long distance routes that avoid the freeway is probably easier in the middle and eastern parts of the country but here in the west it can be a fun challenge to figure out those routes and I am often studying maps to figure out the possibilities.
  8. I don’t know the current back office situation, but about 10 years ago I read that the California DMV was hobbled by the fact that its data systems were still running custom assembler code for 1970s era computers. Being in the software development business that horrified me.
  9. ply33

    PA vibration

    The PA was the first year with floating power and was advertised for how smooth it was. . . Seems like something is wrong but not being an expert I don’t have any suggestions to offer on how to chase down and isolate the problem.
  10. Joe Cocuzza is correct, the serial number should be a tag on the left (driver side in US) front door jam. It will be simply a long number. Getting the build card might be difficult at present, apparently the historical collection is still impacted by COVID, see: https://p15-d24.com/topic/56028-current-build-card-request-status/?tab=comments#comment-602192 Also, the Chrysler historical services do not have complete records, they generally only have information for vehicles built in the US so if the car was assembled elsewhere they may not have the record at all. The tag on the firewall pictured is actually a body tag. It looks like it might have some interesting information on it but I am not knowledgeable enough about late 1940s Chryslers to help there.
  11. Odd. I noticed something in 1937McBuick’s reply to E-116-YH’s post that I hadn’t paid attention to in the post itself: E-116-YH’s user ID. I had never thought to use my car’s serial number as a user ID. Serial Number E-116-YH Found in range E-001-WP to E-193-PH Serial 11553 of 19213 Year 1930-31 Make Dodge Model Name Eight Model Code DC Plant Detroit Engine 8 cylinder 220.7 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 114 inches Chrysler was still using the Dodge tooling for making nuts and bolts when my 1933 Plymouth was built so there are a lot of bolts marked with DB and I tried to save as many as I could. About 10 or 15 years ago I did a search and came up with a screw and bolt manufacturing company in the Pacific Northwest that claimed to be able to make bolts with any markings you wanted. But the minimum quantity was far higher than I was willing to go for my one car. But it sure seems like a thing that a vendor serving the Dodge (and 1928 through at least early 1930s Mopar) restoration business might want to consider. I would certainly been willing to buy a box or two of appropriately marked new bolts. Just not a pallet load.
  12. There are modern spin on oil filters that are for bypass use. My understanding is that they use a different thread to avoid having them confused with full flow filters. If possible, I think you should try to use a bypass filter as they are lower flow with a “depth media” and will help keep your oil pressure up and filter out smaller sized contaminants.
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