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About ply33

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    Spanish Village by the Sea

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  1. I got the ones I needed from Jamestown Distributors. Stainless instead of nickel plated but that is not too apparent once installed.
  2. Yes, US-101 is four lane divided with 65 MPH speed limit between Salinas and Santa Barbara (70 MPH between King City and San Miguel). CA-1 is a bit longer and quite a bit slower. Don't recall the various speed limits (faster south of San Simeon) but you should plan on something like 30 MPH with being caught behind slow drivers, etc. Driving straight through from Carmel to San Simeon (about 90 miles) is probably about 3 hours. Starting a little north of San Simeon and running on down to meet US-101 in San Luis Obispo it is mostly 55 MPH. Lots of good places to stop and sight see on the way. Lunch at Nepenthe near Big Sur is pricy and sometimes slow but the view from the patio is worth it. There are several state parks along the way and the entry fee receipt for one is honored at all the others. So if you like to stretch your legs a bit you can stop at each park as you go down the road. Not sure if the park receipt for Andrew Molera, Ffeiffer Big Sur, Julia Pfieffer Burns, and Limekiln is good at Hearst Castle. Probably not, and each tour there has a fee. Worth it though if you've never been. You can check for closures, etc. at At present it is open but that can be quickly subject to change. I've done that trip a number of times each way in my '33 and it makes for a nice drive. Heading south puts you on the ocean side with a bit better views. Be warned that cell phone coverage can be spotty so you may have to resort to old fashioned methods (sending for help, etc.) if you have mechanical problems. Pretty sure I wouldn't want to be in a car with the fellow that made it from Carmel to Santa Barbara in 3 hours. If you really want to be in Santa Barbara in 3 hours, cut inland to US-101 and take the freeway. CA-1 is really for poking along and enjoying the view. All that said, I think that US-101 along the Oregon Coast is every bit as good as and probably better drive and scenery than California 1 down Big Sur. It just doesn't seem to get the press. Maybe that is a good thing.
  3. Yes, the draft pads go outside the floor board. Not sure why you have two on that (each a different style). I believe only one is needed and the one near the top looks like the correct one to me.
  4. I am assuming this is similar/same as the '33 Plymouth as 33-34 Plymouth and Dodge shared a lot of mechanical designs. First, you should get a copy of the factory service manual. 1934 was the first year for that and you should be happy they made one and that there are (or were last I checked) people printing reproductions. Mine is a photocopy and the images are not good enough to scan. I'll quote from the Plymouth Maintenance Manual (First Edition, January 1934):
  5. I was hoping you'd be able to avoid that problem. The page is at
  6. I have to say that there were some YouTube videos that were very helpful for me when I had to do some work on my newer "daily driver". I probably wouldn't have figured out the easy way to get the dash disassembled to access the multi-function display without that resource. And the vehicle specific forum archive was instrumental in showing me which pins on which connector likely had bad solder joints causing the problem. A couple of hours searching the web saved me between $200 and $800 depending on new/used dealer/mechanic quotes I was looking at. In the end, it took me about 2 or 3 hours to fix the problem with no other expenses (I had the correct size wrenches, solder, soldering iron, etc.). Maybe a way forward would be for us older folk to make the same type of "how to repair" videos for our old cars that the younger folk seem to do for the newer cars. That might save some of the knowledge for the next generation.
  7. I've got a Bluetooth ODB II device that just lives plugged into the ODB port in my newer car. I use Torque (Lite) and Hybrid Assistant on my Android phone from time to time to see what the car is doing. The cost of the Bluetooth device is much less than most (all?) the dedicated ODB II readers I've looked at so it seemed a "no brainer" to get the Bluetooth device rather than a dedicated ODB tool.
  8. Look up either speedometer or navigation on the Android Play Store and you'll find a number of apps that can use the GPS to display speed, etc. I like OsmAnd and for navigation as they use downloaded maps so I don't need mobile data for them to work (you won't have traffic information which requires data). OsmAnd can be setup to show your current speed as well as the map. To power the cell phone the easiest way is to just get a separate USB battery. But it is, in the long run, more convenient to have power from the car. On my '33 I hid a 6v+ to 12v- inverter from Custom Autosound, cost about $60 (far less than $500). I use it to power an accessory plug clamped to the bottom of my dash. Then I just use the same 12v to USB adaptors people use in newer cars. So far, a couple of years now, that has worked just fine.
  9. The temperature sensing bulb has an adaptor with a seat that screws into the head. The bulb slides into that. There is a ridge on the bulb that the gland nut presses against to hold the bulb in place and to seal it. Leave the adaptor threaded in the block and remove only the gland nut (one wrench to hold the adaptor in place and another one to remove the outer gland nut). Even with the gland nut off it may be difficult to remove the bulb as it is likely locked in place by mineral build up, etc. On my '33 Plymouth there is a core/welch/freeze plug on the top of the head above the sensing bulb. I believe you can remove that to get access to the part of the bulb that is in the head. I think you can then insert something to push the bulb out. (Not positive on access with the plug removed because I didn't notice it until after I'd twisted the bulb off the capillary.)
  10. There are a fair number of 60s and newer old cars around here. But you rarely see a pre-WW2 car. And nearly all you see on the road are obviously modified. SF Bay Area seemed to have more unmodified older (pre-WW2) cars actively being driven. Possibly that is because there is relatively quick access to nice, slower, back country roads there versus having to drive an hour or so on a freeway to get out of horrible traffic in the greater LA metro area. At least that is my impression having moved from the SF Bay Area to SoCal just a few years ago.
  11. Mine is a fairly early Lockheed with six bolts holding the top cover on. The vent on the cover is 1/2" pipe threaded, so my adaptor simply gets me to the pipe thread. The adaptor is brass and I soldered a tube extension on it to have the fluid come out at about the height I wanted the reservoir level. Regarding leaking: There is a paper gasket between the cover and the body and there are little copper washers on each cap screw holding the cover on. It doesn't hold much pressure before it leaks around the cover bolts, but it doesn't do too bad with 15 PSI. And since I am using DOT5, the leakage doesn't act as a paint remover. I guess you could use a pump from a 1 gallon sprayer in a 2.5 gallon body. But that would have meant buying two sprayers and ending up with a much larger device to store, etc. Since I have an air compressor it seemed logical to me to simply put a Schrader valve into the upper part of the reservoir body.
  12. FWIW, I usually work along in the garage and I've never had luck with the Mighty-Vac style brake bleeding kits. And the pump and hold the pedal method is definitely not a one person job. So for about $20 I picked up a small garden sprayer (on sale), a Schrader valve and stuff to make a master cylinder cover adaptor specific for my car. The resultant home made pressure bleeder made it real easy to get the little bit of air out that I was never able to achieve with other methods. The key part in using the garden sprayer as a base is don't use the built-in pump as that forces air into the bottom of the container and will create bubbles in your DOT 5 fluid before it ever gets into the master. I use the Schrader valve mounted on the sprayer body above the fluid level to pressurize the bleeder. If I recall correctly, I regulated it down to somewhere around 15 PSI on the tire chuck when bleeding the brakes. Too low and you don't get enough fluid. My guess is too high could create a real mess when the cheap plastic garden sprayer parts gave way. So I just bumped up the PSI a little at a time until I got enough flow at the wheel cylinders to flush out the bubbles.
  13. Antique Auto Parts Cellar/Then and Now Automotive makes some heat riser kits for later cars. It would not surprise me if the bi-metallic spring they make would work in your application. The other parts needed are brass bushings which can be made, etc.
  14. It is a fairly solid wire that can both push and pull.
  15. The automatic clutch is missing on my car too. I've attached a photo of the lever on the bell housing that it attaches to and a scan from the "Operators Manual" showing the general hookup.