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ply33

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  1. My reprint of a 1931 Chilton Multi-Guide shows both the 1928 Whippet 96 (4 cylinder) and 98 (6 cylinder) as using a GJ-57-86 timing chain. Looks like that same chain was used on the 1927 Whippet 96 but I don't see any other vehicles in that list that goes through 1930 as using that Chilton cross reference number. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.
  2. If only short pieces are needed, say less than a couple of feet, shoe laces are the same weave and can be used. You can work it open or more closed to cover a (small) range of required diameters.
  3. Wow! Restarting a thread/topic that is over 20 years old. The 1928-33 Plymouth Master Parts List shows the Model U for domestic US used either a Carter 130-S or a 130-A.
  4. The brake drums and hubs are riveted together into a single assembly. For front an incorrectly adjusted wheel bearing could allow the drum to come out of alignment. For the rear, an improperly tightened axle shaft nut would do the same.
  5. I don't know the answer to that but do recall that the '66 Dodge truck factory service manual I once had showed an oil bath air cleaner that was for use in dusty areas. But that was for a pickup truck back in the days when a pickup truck was not a life style statement vehicle for driving to the grocery store.
  6. Sounds like a situation similar to my wife's. She is semi-retired from graphic design. I say semi because she is retired except for one old client that really likes her work and occasionally sends her jobs. Her work setup is a Mac with 10.13 configured "just so" with the last version of the design suite that one could purchase before the company forced people on to a cloud subscription service. Unfortunately that old Mac died recently. So she got another Mac of the same vintage off eBay for a couple hundred dollars and we were able to wipe it back to its original OS 10.8 to assure no malware, etc. Then install OS 10.12 from Apple, upgrade that to 10.13 via the Apple Store, then migrate her old computer's stuff from the Time Machine backup. She doesn’t have a big budget nowadays what with only an occasional job from one client so spending big bucks for a new machine that would not run her old design purchased software made no sense. A couple hundred dollars was within reason though. Amazingly, Apple actually has disk images and instructions to clean install operating systems going back to 10.7 10.7 Lion was released in 2010 which is quite a long time ago for computers and operating systems.
  7. What vintage Mac do you have? Just poking around, it looks like FreeCAD can run on MacOS 10.12 Sierra. And MacOS 10.12 Sierra can run on late-2009 to mid-2010 Mac computers which are pretty old in computer years. OpenSCAD can run on an even older version of MacOS but it looks like it may be more of a progammer's hacking tool than something for people just wanting to design parts. I have no experience with either of those. The only CAD program I had was back in the Pre-MacOS X days running on a PowerPC Mac from a company now defunct. I guess I ought to see what it takes to learn enough of a CAD program to try printing some parts. But I seem to keep busy enough with other projects.
  8. So true. I spent 40 years in embedded software and firmware development so I have some knowledge of computers. The '82 Plymouth I owned definitely had a computer but the setup was pretty simple. If I recall correctly they called it something like an engine control unit but it was definitely a computer. 1991 I purchased a new Jeep Cherokee and, of course, got a copy of the factory service manuals for it. When I was reading through the manuals my impression was that the Cherokee was more of a rolling computer network more than a traditional car. A bunch of processing units connected with CAN busses, etc. I think when they started putting fancy displays and navigation into the passenger compartment is when people thought it started, but computers have been in cars for many decades now.
  9. You are looking for an 1158 bulb (dual contact bayonet base, 21cp for brake filament, 3cp for tail light). In the Chrysler parts books that would have a part number of 142449. If the pins were staggered (called “indexed” instead of “bayonet”) you would be looking for an 1154 bulb. See https://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/lightbulbs for a list of bulbs that might be useful for you vintage Plymouth. A quick check shows you can still get them through O'Reilly Auto Parts, NAPA Auto Parts and probably other local and chain auto supply stores.
  10. Having an higher octane than required should not damage the engine. The main thing it will do is lighten your wallet. The L-6 engines used in Chrysler product cars all had hardened exhaust valve inserts from the factory and do not need leaded gas. As a rule of thumb, the octane required is often the same as the compression ratio, so your pre-WW2 car the cheapest, lowest octane gas you can find at a normal gas station is more than good enough. If the rubber components in your fuel system are really, really old (like before 1990) then they may be damaged by some of the additives in modern gas. You can get rebuild kits compatible with modern gas for your fuel pump and you can replace the flex hose to the fuel pump. Some carburetor kits had rubber tips on the float valve, if your car had that then you will want to replace that too. But if the car has been driven at all regularly in the last 20 or 30 years these things have probably already been taken care of. Basically, buy the cheapest gas you can find and drive the car.
  11. For my old car, which is basically stock, I have built up a cross reference database with as many modern part number equivalents as I know about. If/when I need to get a part at the local auto supply store I can call ahead and ask for what I need by using their specific part number. Since my car is way too old to be in their computer that is about the only way to go for things like ignition parts, bearings, seals, etc. which are still available if you know what to ask for. For a car that has been modified, I imagine the same technique would work but that database would be car specific. In the highly unlikely event that I'd buy a modified car I would look to the previous owner to give me all the documentation on all the modifications. If they can't provide that information it would be even less likely that I'd consider buying the car. In your specific case, you might want to take your existing coil to your local better auto supply store and see if they can match it up. Once you have that match, record the manufacturer and part number.
  12. First they have to fool me into calling them back as I have all unknown numbers sent directly to voicemail.
  13. Very early Chryslers used different fittings and, I think, a special seamless copper tubing. My 33 Plymouth used steel tubing and modern double flare fittings. I believe your 31 Chrysler is more likely to be like my 33 Plymouth. I used Cunifer when restoring my car so I think it is okay. Cunifer has a slight copper color so it will look different to a judge. Functionally, you can use mix of steel and Cunifer. But old steel lines can rust from the inside out so I wouldn’t trust any original steel lines on the car. Replace them all!
  14. Back in the day the used top dressing. I don’t know what it was but suspect it was a rubberized paint of some sort. I don’t know what a modern equivalent would be.
  15. Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a Then and Now Automotive) offers engine mount revulcanizing. Or at least the used to.
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