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About ply33

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    Spanish Village by the Sea

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  1. 1935 was the first year for Plymouth to have synchros in 2nd and 3rd. And it is the first year that they started using the newer fore-aft weight balance lessons learned when designing the Airflow. Result is the '35 Plymouth rides and drives much more like a modern (40s, 50s & 60s) car than the '34 or earlier Plymouths. And it is the first year for the full length water jacket so the engines are interchangeable with Plymouth 6 cylinder engines through '58 (and some industrial engines through about '72), so many mechanical parts are easy to get.
  2. My profile says I joined on January 3, 2000. It seems unlikely that I managed to find the forum and join it on the first day of existence. So I am guessing it started sometime back in the late 1990s when most people were still using dial up access to the Internet.
  3. We went for years without having to have our two older Prius cars smog tested. In 2017 we got a notice that a smog check was needed to renew registration for both the 2001 and 2004 cars. Turns out the check consisted of three things: Visual inspection for obvious modifications under the hood. Visual inspection for leaks under the car Check with an ODB2 reader to confirm no codes. For this 5 minute procedure we had the pleasure of spending $50 at the authorized inspection station. Let see: $50 for 1/12th of an hour or $600/hr labor rate. Testing stations in our state are private companies and I have no idea what portion of the fee goes to the state.
  4. "RIP" those CDs onto your computer and then share them with your phone. Possible with either Android or iPhone though the details of how to do it vary depending on your computer operating system and the type of phone you have. Of course you'll need a reasonable amount of storage on the phone (add a microSD card for Android, buy the iPhone with more memory). Then connect your phone to your car via Bluetooth and use an app on the phone to play all your tunes. Once I did that for my last car and phone I stopped using the multi-disc CD player it had. Far easier to set the phone app to the playlist and play mode you want and let it do its thing rather than fiddling with CDs every hour (single disc player) or several hours (multiple disc player). I hardly even noticed that the new car didn't have a CD player as I wasn't looking for one with the setup I had going. I can probably drive coast to coast and back without listening to the same symphony or Broadway show twice (play random album mode). Or in random song mode I'll be at my destination before my jazz, American songbook, 50's & 60's pop, or folk genre playlists repeat. Bonus points, when walking, doing yard work, etc. I can use earphones or ear buds to listen to that same music since I am very likely to have my phone within Bluetooth distance. p.s. As far as new car features go, I've found the radar adaptive cruise control to be very useful on Southern California freeways. Got to watch for lane changers and idiots still, cruise control doesn't deal well with either of those. Set the max speed for the speed limit (+10 MPH ) and sit in the #3 or #4 lane so you aren't holding up the people trying to get nowhere in a hurry. You'll get where you want to go much more relaxed than if you actually had to work the gas and brakes yourself.
  5. Weren't most of the antique electric vehicles powered with Edison batteries? Out of curiosity I did some reading up on those a while back and I think they used nickel on the plates and a caustic in the electrolyte. My layman's interpretation was they were a early form of a nickel metal hydride battery. So maybe some of the newer NiMH batteries would be a better match voltage and performance wise than lead-acid AGM batteries. My impression is that people have been using lead-acid batteries in those old cars not because they were better than the original Edison batteries but because they were available.
  6. Unless Google has changed their vehicles from when I first saw them going around Silicon Valley, that is neither a self-driving Waymo vehicle nor a Google Streetview vehicle. There are a number of other companies collecting street imagery nowadays and I think this is one of the other companies. Pretty sure it is collecting street imagery as the sensors for self-driving are not usually on a post or tower like this one but the imagery collecting vehicles often have that.
  7. I like that fellow’s response. It makes me want to buy a set of those tires even if I don’t have a vehicle they will fit on. It sounds like there is quite a bit of attention to detail and if he trusts his own life on them while racing at speeds my later car will never see he must have confidence in them.
  8. Well, I have received the LED lamps and think I have some debugging to do. . . First off, the beam is not as focused as the original incandescent or my current quartz-halogen bulbs. I expected that from looking at the photo of the unit. And the beam center does not change up and down the same way as those either. Those issues may or may not be a killer problem which I'll examine more closely in a bit. The big problem at present is the high/low beam doesn't work properly. I am guessing that the LED units sense which contact has power and decide which mode (high or low) to go into and that maybe a ground or other electrical issue can trick them. Or maybe the contacts on my lamp sockets are dodgy and the high beam contact on the lamp is touching the low beam contact on the socket. One lamp flashes into what I think is high beam occasionally while on low. The other flickers high beam continuously. This is unacceptable and I will try to chase it down. But the flickering bulb, with the lens removed from the headlight assembly, showed me what the LED is trying to do. The overall pattern for low beam casts light in an odd pattern rather than a spot or point with more light to the bottom than top. The high beam doesn't move the pattern up like on the incandescent or quartz-halogen but rather fills in the top center a bit more. I am not sure how this will pan out with respect to dazzling on coming drivers but it seems a bit dodgy. But with the lamps flickering or going into high beam intermittently while low beam is powered I think it is unsafe to drive with them. I've got some other engagements over the next couple of days but when I have time I'll try to chase down whats happening. It may well be a socket problem or grounding issue on my car rather than a design or manufacturing issue and I'd like to rule that out before calling the product defective. One thing I can say is they put out a lot of light. If I can get the flickering/intermittent high beam when low is powered fixed and assure myself that the focus and aiming won't blind on coming drivers, lack of lumens shouldn't be a problem.
  9. My reasoning when I got my 25w 6v quartz-halogen bulbs was that they drew about the same power as the #1000 32/32cp bulbs but put out as much light as the 50/32 bulbs. I figured it wouldn’t tax my generator, wiring and, especially, vintage headlight switch as much as the 50cp incandescent bulbs. My headlights aren’t bad but they are definitely less effective than headlights on late model cars. If these LEDs work it will be great. I’ve got the tracking number, just a little wait now.
  10. Few people ever saw it? Heck, I don't think anyone saw it. That movie was in the theaters for about 5 minutes. When the film was released I missed seeing if my car made the cut because I didn't see the film opening night and it was closed by the next week. I eventually found a VHS of it and if you blink you will miss the two frames that show a glimpse of my car.
  11. I need to check my garage, I think you stole my charger. Well, maybe not, yours looks to be a little less beat up than mine. I also have a 12v Battery Tender but that only gets used on the modern hybrid car if it is going to be parked for a significant amount of time (the tiny 12v aux battery on the hybrid car gets drained pretty quickly by the always on remote key sensing and other electronics if it isn't driven enough). I don't usually have problems with the electrical system in my old 6v+ car, so the old Sears charger is mostly used for electrolytic rust removal tasks nowadays. I wonder if you can do that with a modern “smart charger”. Probably not.
  12. Follow up on my previous post: I've ordered a pair of these "bulbs". When they come in I'll take photos of the beam patterns with some #1000 bulbs, my current 25 watt quartz-halogen bulbs and with these new LED units. I am not sure how applicable this information would be for other vintage headlight assemblies, but suspect the results I get would be similar to that for most other makes/models from that era.
  13. ply33

    logo lites

    See also the thread at
  14. The look identical to the Ba15 LED "bulb" offered by Classic and Vintage Bulbs in Australia. I've been running 25 watt quartz-halogen bulbs from Classic and Vintage Bulbs in my '33 for quite a few years now and have been pleased with them. I'd emailed C&V Bulbs a while back to see if I could order their LED version or if they now had a US distributor. I haven't received an answer yet. Since these look to be the same exact device, I may well order a couple. My biggest concern is that it seems unlikely, despite the wording on Logo Lites webpage, is that they focus very well. The LEDs are not a point source like an incandescent or quartz-halogen so I don't understand how the optics could work. But, as Matt mentioned "why not give them a try"? I think I will.
  15. Like this?