ply33

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About ply33

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  1. If you are on a Mac, the built-in Preview app has the ability to resize an image. If a JPEG then it also allows you to set the quality when you save it.
  2. The Union Pacific "Big Boys" were quite a bit bigger. I just searched for "Nickel Plate Line 757" (based on the lettering and numbers in the photos). It is apparently a 2-8-4 Berkshire class locomotive built in 1944. I do like the photos of a period car adjacent to an old steam locomotive. I was given a wonderful "hour at the throttle" gift a number of years back where I got up close and personal with Southern Pacific 2472 and was able to get a similar photo that I included in a little video.
  3. On the very, vary rare occasion that I see an unmodified '32 Ford, I think its really cool.
  4. Not just 1900s. Prior to retirement I'd usually take a couple mile lunch time walk near work that took me past an elementary school. I noticed that the average weight child on the playground was as heavy as the "fat kid" that got teased/hassled when I was that same age back in the late 1950s and early 1960s. Too much junk/fast food and too little exercise nowadays for the average child. Strike that "average child" and make it the "average person".
  5. That would help confirm. But the engine number given, Q176265, is pretty low: 1266th of 67483 built so the engine likely originally shipped with a pretty early car.
  6. Now you have me worried. Maybe I should buy a spare set of wheels. And/or dial back the speed when I'm on the freeway going from home to the better backcountry touring roads.
  7. Both PC and PD had the instruments in the center. Do you have a serial number? That should be on a tag on the front passenger side hinge post.
  8. Split? That's scary. . . Any obvious reason for the failure (corrosion, using radial tires, etc.)? The fortunate thing is the 17" steel wire wheels are the most commonly available. Looks like there are some on eBay at the moment.
  9. ply33

    Welsh plugs

    There are enough people asking how to fix the “breaks” on their cars that I wouldn’t worry too much if someone calls a welch/core/expansion/freeze plug a “welsh plug”.
  10. Jim Benjaminson of the Plymouth Owners Club will be the person who knows if there is a lower serial number out there than yours. I think his contact information is available on the Plymouth club's website. If not, PM me and I can send it to you.
  11. I think pneumatic spring dampers (i.e. shock absorbers).
  12. The background in that photo sure looks like California. And the bus is fairly low slung. I’m going to guess, and I emphasize guess, that it is a Faegol Safety Coach from the mid 1920s.
  13. My only real “reference”, a book titled Over the Road printed back in the 1970s seems to indicate that by 1927/28 buses usually had a single door in front with a center isle. This looks to be older than that as it has doors for each seating position. There were a number of regional bus manufacturers back then with models that differed more in front grill appearance than in the 3/4 view from the back. If the photo was clear enough to show the bus company (most were regional then too) then that might give a clue as it seemed the regional operating companies often purchased from the local region‘s manufacturer(s). For example Pacific Greyhound lines (formerly Pickwick) would likely have something locally custom made, built by California Body Building or maybe Faegol. That said, a couple of the bigger manufacturers were Faegol and Yellow.
  14. I guess I didn't look closely enough at the first photos in this thread earlier. You've got an engine out of a 1953 Dodge that displaced 230 cu. in. from the factory. That is quite a step up from the original engine so I don't know how much you'd need to go with larger pistons to have a good performer. I'd be interested in how they worked the starter motor/bell housing/engine clearance when they put that engine into your car.
  15. Not sure how spraying oil where the tappet contacts the valve will make any difference on a sticking valve. Seems to me that the sticking would most likely be between the valve stem and the valve guide. Second most likely would be the tappet sticking. Taking the head off, removing the valve and cleaning or reaming the guide would probably fix it. If you have a valve spring lifter and the correct size reamer, and nothing unexpected comes up, it probably would take less time to do that than it took you to rig all that plumbing.