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Crazyred

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  1. Keith, Glad you received it back and all's looking good. I'm excited to see some assembly videos!! Looking at your pics and by no means am I an expert but does the bearing have a crack in it?
  2. I will give Andy B a call to see if they carry these rubber pieces. I have another dilemma now. I took my keyed exterior handle and ignition to two different local locksmiths and neither one had the know how to rekey these. Does anyone know of a locksmith in the Houston area that could handle this? What have other's done in order to get the keyed handle usable so they can lock up the car?
  3. @TTR, there are 3 firestone deluxe champions on the car now. How do these handle a wet road as I haven't experienced that yet? For these, as old as they seem, they are in good shape with some minor dry rot cracks. Do you know if the date codes on the firestones are accurate or just part of the old mold that's used? I am leaning towards the Firestone or the Goodyear. The goodyear appears to have a more aggressive tread pattern similar to what Ply33 had with the Bedford's. I have read that the coker tire company will make the tires and then store them for sometime years. Is this the same for the Firestone and Goodyear tires?
  4. Thanks Ply and Grimy! Just looked at the Bedfords, nice looking tire but not offered in the 16". When replacing the tires, do you normally replace the tubes as well? They are holding air with no issues.
  5. I have a 1933 plymouth PD sedan and needing to replace the 4 tires currently on it. I know everyone has their favorite brand of tire and have read many posts on the web in that regards. I will be putting bias tires back on them, it currently has 6.00x16 whitewalls (3 firestone and 1 coker). The firestone tires have a 3 digit date code of 248, which I think it means they're pre 2000 year? The coker, has no date code that I could find but the PO put it on around 8 years ago and has the best tread, maybe I could use for a spare? The coker whitewall has small cracking but the firestone whitewall is in great condition but more cream in color. Does anyone know what brand came on the plymouth's originally? Some 1933 sales brochure pictures of the car, look like it has goodyear tread but I can not find anywhere stating the oem tire brand. If the plymouths came with goodyear's, how do these perform on the road? I found these made at Kelsey tires in the correct size. Looking at the coker site, they offer the BFG, firestone and coker in the correct sizes but higher pricing on the BFG and Firestone. Does coker make all 3 at their factory with the same rubber, cords, etc but just use different molds for the name brands? If so, I guess you are paying for the name brand design? Sorry to be so wordy but I am trying to make an educated decision since I'm on a limited budget. Thoughts on the 4 brands that I mentioned?
  6. While I was freeing up the door latches I found two pieces of rubber (one in each front door) laying in the bottom, that I have no clue what they are to be used for. Also, I have a broken window bump stop that I am looking for a place to buy it from. Any idea on the flat piece and cylindrical hardened rubber piece might be used for and are they needed? Who might sell these three pieces?
  7. Thanks Knobless for letting me know. I received the springs early and was able to install them. Since I was afraid of breaking the tabs on the keepers (now I know about knobless stash) I modified the spring some what. Looking at how it installs I slightly bent the straight portion of the spring that locks into the keeper. I was able to give it enough angle and then place it into position and carefully using channel lock pliers pushed up and with the spring flexing it slide through the keeper slot and into position. This worked fine for the drivers door but not so well on the passengers door. On the passengers door it over flexed or sprung the spring. The spring was then too loose and did not provide enough tension for the locked position. So then I decided to take the keeper off very carefully. Once I removed the tabs on just one side I had enough working room to remove the spring. I reshaped the spring, reinstalled it into the keeper and carefully bent the tabs back successfully. Both doors now operate as they should. Again, I REALLY APPRECIATE everyone's help! This forum helps ease the angst when diving into the unknown.
  8. Thanks Ply! I'll order these and give an update once I get them installed. Hopefully it goes well like your installation. I have the keyed handle and ignition switch at a locksmith hoping they can get them working and rekeyed.
  9. Are these the correct remote handle lock springs? I am always leery of ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1933-1940-Dodge-Chrysler-Plymouth-Desoto-Door-Lock-Latch-Remote-Springs/393183827610 I didn't see anything on Andy's site so I'm looking elsewhere.
  10. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I was finally able to remove the front passengers assembly. I did have to wiggle the outside handle in order to remove it from the assembly. Once removed I was able to determine that the latch assembly needed cleaning and a thorough oiling. This freed up the handle in order to return to the up position on its on. In order to make the re-installation on the door easier, I did remove the window gear assembly. This proves to be a much easier way to remove and install the latch assembly if your glass is not glued in. Fortunately mine is held in with a canvas material. The rear passenger latch assembly needed a good oiling once I removed the door panel. I was not able to figure out how to remove the assembly since the window track was blocking the removal. Either way, after oiling it now operates as it should. So now on to the drivers side this week as time allows. Now I need to order the lock springs for two doors and also figure out how to get the keyed locking door handle working. It appears that the key hole outside disc maybe chromed plated to the handle!?!
  11. Lol Scott couldn't tell if I've ever had a tetanus shot before. On this passenger front door the interior handle when used returns via spring with no issue. I know the lock spring is broken as it has no resistance when moved in to or out of the locked position. The two back doors lock spring still work. Since the inside handle returns that make me think it's on the outside handle part or latch. I soaked the internal parts with some pb blaster and I'll let it soak overnight. Things have freed up but not working as it should. As this handle has a keyed lock and i don't have the key, is there a certain way it has to be removed? Thanks again for the guidance!
  12. Ok so after removing the two screws that hold the outside handle on, the handle won't pull out. Is there something inside that holds it as well?
  13. Thanks Scott. With your info i was able to remove the panel easy enough. I realize what the have fun refers to 😄. Now i have to shrink my hands to work this assembly out. Any tricks to it?
  14. On my 4 door sedan, two of the four outside handles will not return up unless it's manually lifted. The other two need a slight lift and the they raise up with the spring. All four doors are covered on the inside. Before i start taking things apart i wanted to figure out how the inside handles are released. Since there are no exposed screws on the fabric, i assume they have some type of push snap to hold it to the door? I searched but was unable to find any posts regarding the removal of door panels and handles. Any advice is greatly appreciated so i can get these door latches corrected without breaking anything.
  15. Thanks Reg, I did as this is the same site I used to look up the serial number. Ply33 has some info about exports but mainly on the pcxx models. I was surprised that it might be an export and curious to know how it ended up back in the states. That may not ever be known though.
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