ply33

Why worry about cost for something that has been vaporware for many years? If they actually get into production then there will be an actual cost publicly available.

Should be shown in the factory service manual. Assuming they are the same as on my car, remove the driveshaft then you will see a pressed steel cover on the end held on with some fold over tabs. Carefully open the tabs and remove the cover, there is a spring under the cover that centers the driveshaft between the two ball and trunion joints. I believe there is, or might be, a paper gasket between the cover and the body but my memory is hazy on that. Then push back the body, there will be some resistance from the boot, to expose the balls and end caps on the cross shaft. The end caps should have some spring washers under them and there are a bunch of needle bearings inside the balls. That is about it. Clean, lubricate and reassemble in reverse order. These are actually primitive constant velocity joints and should go a really long time with little attention as long as the boots are not damaged. If the boots are damaged and dirt gets in they will wear out very quickly. So inspect the boots regularly and replace them when you see any damage. I prefer the better quality leather boots as easier to install and longer lasting than the rubber boots. All the rubber boots I tried must have been old stock with aged rubber which failed shortly after installation. I have heard of someone who found a modern CV joint boot that would fit but they never responded with the product information and none of the ones I found in catalogs had dimensions that seems like they would work for me.

Chrysler probably went to it earlier but Plymouth stuck with a third brush generator until the mid-1930 but starting in 1934 they added an external voltage regulator so they looked a lot like a two brush generator with both an armature and field connection on the generator. I don't have an AutoLite cross reference so I can’t tell what the OP's generator is but removing the brush cover will tell the story. Edit: Are you sure that generator is orginal? Plymouth, and I thought all Chrysler Corp lines used Delco-Remy through 1934 and switched to AutoLite in 1935.

When I was in school it seemed the CRC book was the one to get for all your math tables. CRC being short for Chemical Rubber Company if I recall correctly. Many pages looking pretty much the same as the image posted by Gary above. I disposed of my 1960s copy only a few years ago not having opened it since decent calculators and cheap computers came out in the 1980s.

How in the world did this question get left off the bingo card Matt posted?

Maybe if the vehicle it was in was totaled in an accident.

I am not in the auto insurance or auto theft business so my thoughts are probably way off base, but it seems to me that most auto theft is organized and organized theft is often to supply parts to the less scrupulous auto body repair shops. I know my insurance company’s policy is to require a repair shop to use new factory parts. Speaking with my agent, that policy is to reduce the market for stolen parts. It would not surprise me if many other insurance companies do the same. That implies the market for stolen parts is greater for popular cars that are old enough to be owned by less wealthy people who are trying to get their car fixed on a budget rather than through their insurance. So I suspect that the theft rate on new model cars, both EV and internal combustion, is lower than for ones a few years old. I guess I should see if there are some statistics on that. . . Riffing on the same theme, most EVs on the road are Teslas and Tesla has worked hard to make sure that you can't get the car repaired by anyone but them. That would have the same result as my insurance company requiring factory parts: Very little third party repair meaning very little repair by less scrupulous repair shops and thus low demand for stolen parts. So it would not surprise me if EVs on the road today are not stolen very often. That may change when there are larger number of older EVs from companies other than Tesla.

Yep. A slide rule only does the mantissa, you had to keep track of the exponent in your head. That gave you a pretty good feel for if the result was believable. The generation(s) after ours using calculators and computers did not get that training reinforced on every calculation which could lead to problems where the result was wildly off due to calculation errors or erroneous inputs.

I don’t recall taking a class in using a slide rule. In high school science class those of us who were nerdy got slide rules and figured out how to use them. In college it seems like it was just assumed you knew how to use one. For what it is worth, I think I was in about the last graduating class from college where most of the engineering students used slide rules. The HP 35 came out while I was in college but they were so expensive that only the rich kids got them. The prices on engineering/scientific electronic calculators dropped fast enough that I think they became affordable by most students shortly after I graduated. edit: Dredging up old memories. I do recall some drills in using a slide rule in high school. Not sure if it was in my advanced math class or in one of my physical science classes. So I guess I did have some lessons in using a slide rule but only as part of a class focused on other topics.

That is true, or at least true on my '33 Plymouth. Sharing stories, back in 1978 I loaded up my '33 Plymouth, attached a small utility trailer which carried all my spare parts and headed west from Baltimore following the old National Pike. I don't recall why, but I had the freewheeling enabled coming down into Wheeling, WV. As I came down a long downhill sweeping curve a red traffic light came into view. The narrow drum brakes on my Plymouth are definitely not up to modern standards nor even the standards of 1978 and with a full load and including a pretty heavily loaded brakeless utility trailer I knew I was in a bad situation. The 1933 Plymouth instruction book says to disengage the freewheeling you need to have the engine pulling the car. So I had to accelerate, disable the freewheeling, double clutch down to second to get some engine braking then use both the foot and hand brakes to barely stop at the light. That was the last time I ever used freewheeling other than on flat ground on known roads to demonstrate it.

The motorcycle tubes I used for a while had narrow diameter valve stems, like those on a bicycle. You may need to use some washers or other spacers to have them work with the larger valve stem holes found on automobile wheels.

Thank you for the link. Just to double check, I entered the Coker site fresh and tried to find that page. Near as I can tell it is not linked to by any of the searches for tubes or valve stems, etc. I have no idea how you found it. That looks like a lot better match my needs than what I have in the tires at the moment, I think you just cost me $221. 🙁

I believe the topic was tubes for tyres rather than valves for radios. How is your DeSoto coming along? I ought to pop over the hill to see what it looks like but Ortega Highway is a mess and often closed for construction on weekends.

Can you link to the page with the tube? I am looking at https://www.cokertire.com/accessories/tubes/17_1.html and I don’t see one for 5.25/5.50 with a center stem. One thing about Plymouths of that era is that most of the mechanical parts are readily available. Most, not all. The big issue is with trim items that are specific to a single year or even for a few years: There is not a lot of good surviving parts to use original and the market is too small for most to be reproduced. Starting with a new to me vehicle, I would rather get one with really good trim parts and mechanical issues than the reverse. You are correct though, even with free labor you will dump a large amount of money into the car to make it a reliable driver and you will end up with more in it than any plausible market value. But for me the car is a hobby, not a profit center.

When following the instructions @61polara gives, have the hub nut on the axle shaft but loose. That does two things: 1. If place at the end of the shaft it will help keep the threads on the axle shaft from being damaged by the puller. 2. Sometimes when the hub and drum come loose it can be explosive. Having the nut on the end of the axle shaft can keep it from flying across the room and damaging someone or something. I would avoid applying heat if you possibly can. Some people have success in using a 1/2" impact gun on the puller's hex head instead of using a hand sledge on the dog bone. But apparently my 1/2" impact wrench does not have enough impact so I use the hand sledge on the dog bone.

I used motorcycle tubes in my 33 Plymouth for a few years until one just disintegrated about 60 miles out while coming home from a fairly long distance trip. There was nothing I could find inside the tire that would have caused it. I was lucky that it didn’t happen 100 yards further down the road as the shoulder on that mountain road ended and I would have been stuck on the pavement in traffic while I dealt with it. After talking with the people at one of the antique car tire places who suggested tubes for a larger diameter but smaller cross section tire. So that is what I have in them now. Sorry I don’t recall the size. So far no problems but I have only done low speed local driving since and I am not sure I can trust that setup for longer and higher speed trips. So my experience is that there aren’t good options for tubes for the 5.25/5.50-17 wheels with the non-offset valve stem.

I know of a fellow who had access to a machine shop who made a custom back plate for a later water pump. So that is possible. Internally the parts are the same as later water pumps so a kit for a 1935 and up should work. But there are also a number of vendors who can rebuild it for you. Most recently I used Gould.

It has been a long, long time since I had mine apart and my memory is failing. With that in mind, are you sure it isn't either a compression fitting or a flare fitting. The hard line from the dash unit through the firewall on mine got plugged up and I had to make a new one and I vaguely remember it being a tube nut and flare for the connection.

On my '33 Plymouth the cover on the hand crank hole is held on with a spring clip. The original spring was rusted to the point where it failed shortly after I bought the car. It would not surprise me if others in that situation would rig something where they would just permanently bolt it on. At the time, mid-1970s, I was working at a place where the old timers knew how to make an appropriate spring so mine is still retained by a spring clip.

I am not familiar with the Airflow, but for other applications the pulley (or on later water pumps a flange that holds the pulley) is actually pressed on to the shaft. Then the pulley and shaft are drilled and the pin driven in to make sure nothing comes loose. Point being that even if you could drive that pin out, you will probably need to put that water pump on to a bench press to get the pulley off. Way, way back when I had access to a machine shop with a fellow who was a good machinist and we went through the whole process of rebuilding one of these. Nowadays, without access to a full machine shop and machinist to help me I send the whole unit, including the pulley, off to a reputable rebuilder.. To remove the water pump itself, you should just be able to remove the nuts from the studs holding it to the block.

The title suggests that Plymouth might be one option. But Plymouth never had that buggy spring setup with a wishbone so that is not possible.

I have a set of Klein tools consisting of a pair of lineman’ pliers, a diagonal cutter, and a pair of needle nose pliers. All inherited from my father who, I believe, got them when he was being trained as an electronics technician by the navy in WW2. It is the set of tools he used when he taught me to solder and wire things when I was a child so they have some special meaning to me. More on topic, most of my Craftsman tools are from the 1970s. About 15 years ago I needed some tools I didn’t have and checked out what Craftsman had and decided they weren’t any better than Harbor Freight. And the Harbor Freight staff were a lot more knowledgeable and helpful than the Sears people.

I can assure you that the fuel system on my old car never had an evaporation control system. There is a vent on the gas cap and a vent on the carburetor bowl and that is it. In the old days the building codes, at least in California, allowed for that and required vents near the floor with the total area of the vents based on the number of cars that could be parked in the garage. Once evaporation control systems were on the majority of cars that part of the building code seems to have been removed. My current house has a garage with no floor vents and if you walk into the garage you can definitely tell from the smell of fuel evaporating out of the carburetor if it has been run in the last few hours. I am not sure when evaporation controls became required, all I know is my 1963 did not have it (only positive crankcase ventilation) but my 1982 did and I have never owned a car built between those two model years. The survey apparently went to people with 1974 and earlier cars. It would not surprise me if 1974 is about when evaporation controls were introduced.

I know that my cars get quite a bit hotter when parked in the sun rather than in the garage. With a vented gas cap it would not surprise me if there is more evaporation and release of the lighter hydrocarbon fractions in the fuel when the fuel tank is hot. And unburned hydrocarbons are a primary cause of air pollution.

That suggestion to modify 1/4-28 bleeders is brilliant. Even though I have an adapter I made up differently I think I might go that route. I don't know about how the modified Dorman bleeders will work, but my home made one doesn't make a good seal around the threads so a little air can get in. I solved that by making up a rubber washer to go under the head of the adapter. If there is too much air leakage on the threads you may want to try that.