Jump to content

Eclector

Members
  • Content Count

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Eclector

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Chicago Metropolitan Area

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looking for a driveshaft for a model 130. Also door handles and fender lights for same. Also could use a whole bunch of OEM screws that someone ripped out and replaced with Philips heads.
  2. I'm looking for a driveshaft for a 1929 model 130 sedan. Please PM me if you have one or know of someone who might. Thanks!
  3. Looking for a set of hubcaps for a model 130 with wire wheels. Need 6. Thank you.
  4. I'm looking for both brake and clutch pedal levers as well as the pedal pads for my 1929 model 130. Let me know if you have them or know of someone who might. Thanks! Steve
  5. Looking for a driveshaft for my 1929 model 130. I understand that it is shorter than the 135 or 137 models. Let me know if you have one or know of someone who has one to sell. Thanks, Steve
  6. Spinneyhill, Foot brake on rear wheels contracting. Hand Brake linkage goes to rear wheels and then disappears inside so I'm assuming internal.
  7. 1924 Dodge Bros Roadster Driving forward, wheels will randomly lock up. Car is fully immobilized and can not go forward. Engine strains and will stall unless clutch is disengaged. Unable to push forward even in neutral or with clutch disengaged. Shifting to reverse allows the car to move backward without restriction. After doing this, you can put the car in a forward gear and move forward without restriction. The first time this happened, I heard what sounded like a clunk coming from beneath the floor. It was followed by a smell of burning rubber. That may have been due to t
  8. 1924 DB Roadster When letting foot off gas to shift, there is often a very loud POP that comes from the tailpipe. Can also be replicated standing still by running engine at a higher than idle RPM (ie: 1,500 RPM) and then suddenly taking foot off the gas. Happens when car is warmed up. Spark is set at full advance, adjusting advance does not seem to affect it. Using an electric fuel pump Problem became noticeable on the last day of a 2,200 mile trip. Not a problem before that. This is NOT a backfire that comes from the carb but rather an afterfire that come from the tai
  9. I have a 1924 DB roadster. Should the radiator cap seal tightly using a gasket, O ring or the like? I find that sealing the cap tight, pressurizes the system which is good for a system designed for that but I understand these cars did not use a pressurized system. So seal the cap tight or not?
  10. 1924 Dodge Bros Roadster. Enough slop in the steering that it makes me very uncomfortable to drive, especially at speed. Main issue seems to be with the steering box. Other linkages seem to be okay and the steering wheel moves the wheels with ease once you get past the slop. I can't seem to find sources for parts needed for a rebuild. Open to any suggestions for finding parts or other solutions.
  11. I am looking to start fresh with some new trans oil in my '24 DB Roadster. I've been reading the various forum articles and a lot of folks seem to like the Meropa 1500 product that is repackaged as Lub164 as sold by Restoration Supply Co in CA. I've also read favorable comments about Penrite T-250. As far as I can tell, both products seem to be in the same viscosity range LUB164 is an ISO 1500 and Penrite is an SAE 250. Restoration Supply Co. sells both although, the Penrite product is significantly more. I don't know enough about oil specs to know if one product has a clear advantage over the
  12. Well, it's going to be a task either way. We own a '29 Franklin that was stripped mostly for body and interior parts. What was left was a perfectly good frame, engine and running gear. A previous owner then fashioned a body from spare aluminum sheet stock. He decided to go with something that had a classic roadster look.
  13. Back to dealing with my bent steering linkage. Has anyone successfully removed the end caps from a series 11 drag link? The caps are fine but the pipe is bent and needs replacement. I am concerned because the drawing indicates "Braze" at the threaded connection so I don't know what I'm in for. Also interested if anyone has an intact series 11 link that they would be interested in selling or otherwise parting with. As an aside, I am curious about the marking on the tube which looks like the letter "C" in a hexagon. Any info is helpful and appreciated.
  14. An addendum to my comment on John Deere Corn Head Grease: The steering box on our '24 DB has only a grease fitting to fill the box. I removed the fitting and used a needle attachment at the end of my regular grease gun to shoot the grease deep into the box. At the same time, I jacked the front end just so the wheels would clear the pavement and then ran the steering back and forth, from end to end, in order to work the grease into the gearing as much as possible. Refill to the filler hole and repeat.
×
×
  • Create New...