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Eclector

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  1. I'm searching for a pair of fender lights for a model 130. I understand that they are smaller than those used on the 137 and 137. Would appreciate any leads.
  2. I have recently acquired a 130 that has everything converted to 12 volt positive ground EXCEPT for the generator which is still at 6 volts positive ground. Is there a means to rework the existing generator to charge 12 volts? How about an alternator option that might fit in the case? What manufacturer produced the original 130 generator?
  3. 1923 Depot Hack with a 1926 engine and who knows what else. Car starts and runs fine on battery Switching to magneto yields unpredictable results. Sometimes the switch from battery is seamless and car runs fine albeit with a slight increase in RPMs. At other times, the switch to magneto power results in marked roughness in the motor. Missing and rough to the point of stalling. Voltage measured at magneto post yields about 8.5 VAC at low idle. Volts increase commensurate with engine speed. Cleaned/Tightened all wiring connections at magneto post, terminal block and back of switch. Removed and cleaned the magneto post. While under magneto power, I have tried wriggling the key switch, wires and connections with no effect. So as a Model T and magneto newbie, I have some questions: I have not been able to find a good reference regarding the post. Should the contact point be sharp and needle like? Is there any guidance for making sure that everything regarding the post is set up properly? Assuming that the output of the magneto is good, what are the other areas that could possibly cause these symptoms? Am I correct in thinking that since everything works fine on battery, the problem is somewhere between the magneto post and the switch? Other than checking voltage output of the magneto, is there anything else I can measure or observe without tearing things apart? Any help is much appreciated, Steve
  4. Looking for a driveshaft for a model 130. Also door handles and fender lights for same. Also could use a whole bunch of OEM screws that someone ripped out and replaced with Philips heads.
  5. I'm looking for a driveshaft for a 1929 model 130 sedan. Please PM me if you have one or know of someone who might. Thanks!
  6. Looking for a set of hubcaps for a model 130 with wire wheels. Need 6. Thank you.
  7. I'm looking for both brake and clutch pedal levers as well as the pedal pads for my 1929 model 130. Let me know if you have them or know of someone who might. Thanks! Steve
  8. Looking for a driveshaft for my 1929 model 130. I understand that it is shorter than the 135 or 137 models. Let me know if you have one or know of someone who has one to sell. Thanks, Steve
  9. Spinneyhill, Foot brake on rear wheels contracting. Hand Brake linkage goes to rear wheels and then disappears inside so I'm assuming internal.
  10. 1924 Dodge Bros Roadster Driving forward, wheels will randomly lock up. Car is fully immobilized and can not go forward. Engine strains and will stall unless clutch is disengaged. Unable to push forward even in neutral or with clutch disengaged. Shifting to reverse allows the car to move backward without restriction. After doing this, you can put the car in a forward gear and move forward without restriction. The first time this happened, I heard what sounded like a clunk coming from beneath the floor. It was followed by a smell of burning rubber. That may have been due to tire skid, I don't know. Once it starts moving forward, everything seems to operate smoothly until it randomly happens again. Looking under the car, there is nothing that appears to be grossly out of place. Any ideas of what I'm looking at here? E brake link? Transmission? Clutch?
  11. 1924 DB Roadster When letting foot off gas to shift, there is often a very loud POP that comes from the tailpipe. Can also be replicated standing still by running engine at a higher than idle RPM (ie: 1,500 RPM) and then suddenly taking foot off the gas. Happens when car is warmed up. Spark is set at full advance, adjusting advance does not seem to affect it. Using an electric fuel pump Problem became noticeable on the last day of a 2,200 mile trip. Not a problem before that. This is NOT a backfire that comes from the carb but rather an afterfire that come from the tailpipe. I have heard a number of theories on the possible causes such as fuel mix to rich or possible leak in the exhaust system. Are these cars prone to this and if so, what are the likely causes? Thank you!
  12. I have a 1924 DB roadster. Should the radiator cap seal tightly using a gasket, O ring or the like? I find that sealing the cap tight, pressurizes the system which is good for a system designed for that but I understand these cars did not use a pressurized system. So seal the cap tight or not?
  13. 1924 Dodge Bros Roadster. Enough slop in the steering that it makes me very uncomfortable to drive, especially at speed. Main issue seems to be with the steering box. Other linkages seem to be okay and the steering wheel moves the wheels with ease once you get past the slop. I can't seem to find sources for parts needed for a rebuild. Open to any suggestions for finding parts or other solutions.
  14. I am looking to start fresh with some new trans oil in my '24 DB Roadster. I've been reading the various forum articles and a lot of folks seem to like the Meropa 1500 product that is repackaged as Lub164 as sold by Restoration Supply Co in CA. I've also read favorable comments about Penrite T-250. As far as I can tell, both products seem to be in the same viscosity range LUB164 is an ISO 1500 and Penrite is an SAE 250. Restoration Supply Co. sells both although, the Penrite product is significantly more. I don't know enough about oil specs to know if one product has a clear advantage over the other. I need someone to help me clarify the data as it pertains to these old gearboxes. Thank you.
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