clock replacement options

[rocky5517]

Time to get the clock working on 67 Riv. It seems the options are

- have the old one rebuilt back to original specs . Doubtful I want to got this route.

- send the old one out to be converted to Quartz.  Not bad idea; 2 week turn around, or thereabouts

- find dealer who will sell me a quartz clock that looks like the original, without having to send the old one out. Seem easiest of all.

Does anyone have any advice? In the Services section of the Riview I see some outfits that "restore" clocks. Does any just 'sell" them?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[rocky5517]

PS  Ditto for the speed buzzer/ anyone have a good one for my 67?

[rodneybeauchamp]

Rocky,

if the clock is electro mechanical, then they are repairable. Possibly be a Borg unit. This type uses a solenoid to rewind a mechanical Spring. Often the contacts are dirty and the clock needs a clean and lubrication, nothing more. Usually when they stop, they are left so there is not much wear. You will find some posts of mine if you search here. I got my '63 clock working sweetly and keeping ok time too. There is a post also on the Internet to find which describes the clock and how you repair them. Google Borg clock repair. Good luck, keep us posted ???

[Hazdaz]

How easy is it to even get to the clock to remove it (1st Gen cars)?

 

Does the entire dash have to be disassembled?

 

What kind of prices have you gotten for converting it to quartz?

[JZRIV]

Instrument Services will sell you a quartz kit and you can rebuild yourself. No one straight out sells rebuilt clocks for the 66-67. 

If your clock face happens to need a cosmetic resto it might be best to send it out or get  a good replacement and install a quartz kit yourself. 

 

I do love the nostalgia of old electromechanical clocks when they are operating. Unfortunately it’s not a robust design for something that runs 24 hrs day. 

 

As for the speedo buzzer check the big Chevy and Corvette aftermarket suppliers. They might have them. Make certain the buzzer is the problem. The hair spring contact in the speedo is notoriously at fault. Same trigger system is used for cruise control 

 

Edited November 3, 2017 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[telriv]

I have a few 1st. gen clocks sitting around as I'm sure many others have in the ROA. One of us could rebuild one & convert it to a Quartz movement for a fee paid in advance. As far as removing it's got to be one of the simplist things to do on a 1st. gen. Grab & turn to the left. dis-connect wires, done. If it WON'T come out or turn do a search on this forum for an explanation.

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

[PWB]

1 hour ago, telriv said:

I have a few 1st. gen clocks sitting around as I'm sure many others have in the ROA. One of us could rebuild one & convert it to a Quartz movement for a fee paid in advance. As far as removing it's got to be one of the simplist things to do on a 1st. gen. Grab & turn to the left. dis-connect wires, done. If it WON'T come out or turn do a search on this forum for an explanation.

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

The quartz clocks are noisy. wrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Disconnect the hot lead under the dash and check for continuity thru the clock.

If its good you more than likely need only a clean and lube.

Getting the clock out is the scary part. Radio and duct has to be moved unless you have mad skill skeleton arms.

[rocky5517]

Thanks once again to all. I think I'll pull it out and try to clean it up, then go from there. I have a battery disconnect, so when I use it, I'd have to re-set the clock every time. I assume the quartz clocks are the same, unless they have a magic source of power?

[Pat Curran]

I did a quartz conversion on my 69 and it was silent with no noise at all.

[jframe]

4 hours ago, telriv said:

I have a few 1st. gen clocks sitting around as I'm sure many others have in the ROA. One of us could rebuild one & convert it to a Quartz movement for a fee paid in advance. As far as removing it's got to be one of the simplist things to do on a 1st. gen. Grab & turn to the left. dis-connect wires, done. If it WON'T come out or turn do a search on this forum for an explanation.

 

 

Tom T.

 

What would something like that cost for my '65?

 

[RivNut]

If you're having problems with a clock in a 1st generation Riviera, the first thing you'll want to do is go back to post #3 in this thread and re-read it.  It's really a pretty simple DIY fix.  If you can get the clock out, you can fix it.  If you can't get the clock out, go back and re-read Tom's post #6 in this thread.  The videos referenced seem to run on a bit but all you're trying to do is clean the gears and make sure that the points are in good condition.

 

These clocks are mechanical.  They run off of a main spring.  The main spring is wound with a very quick jolt from a 12V source - your cars battery.  When the points close and allow the 12V to wind the main spring, the clock will run until the main spring runs down. The points are connected to the main spring.  The main spring runs down, the points make contact, and the main spring is wound again.  This cycle just keeps repeating itself over and over.

 

Tom's reference to remove the clock tells you how to get a better grip on the clock bezel.  

 

Once you've cleaned the year's accumulation of dirt from the gears, and have filed the points down, you can manually depress the points arm to wind the main spring.  The clock should start running and continue until the main spring runs down.  If it doesn't start, hold the clock in your hand with the face in your palm.  Then rapidly twist your wrist back and forth a number of times to get the gears moving.  Once they move on their own, you're good to go.

 

 You'll need to remove the cover from around the clock. There are some small Phillips head screws that hold the cover on. Should you need to remove the bezel, you'll need to remove the winder from the stem.  With a very small pair of needle nose pliers, grab the stem behind the face of the clock.  You can then unscrew the knob from the stem.

 

When you first get the clock loose, you'll need to take the wires off. One wire is for the lamp. One wire is your 12V source. Make sure the 12 wire doesn't come in contact with something that will ground it. You'll create a short and blow a fuse. Have fun.

 

Ed

[NC1968Riviera]

On 11/3/2017 at 8:42 AM, Pat Curran said:

I did a quartz conversion on my 69 and it was silent with no noise at all.

Ditto for my 1969 Chevrolet Caprice clock conversion to quartz movement. Silent and accurate with a much lower drain on your battery. If you follow Instrument Services instructions you will have no problem converting your clock to quartz movement. Just be very gentle with the clock arms as they are very delicate and can be easily bent . 

Edited November 10, 2017 by NCRiviera (see edit history)

[petelempert]

I have to admit...I love the quiet little click the clock on my 63 makes when the battery rewinds the main spring. All the other cars in my garage are quiet and never make any noise when parked. I had my 63 for years (before I pulled the clock, cleaned it, painted the arms and bezel) and the clock never worked so I never heard it. Now, whenever I hear that little click it's a small reminder of a task successfully completed. IMHO, if you can get the old clock to work...do it...it's rewarding. PRL

 

[NC1968Riviera]

After reading this thread I was inspired to try to get the inoperative clock in the Aqua Zephyr running. 

After removing the clock I took the back off and wound the main spring and found the unit would not operate. I shot a very light coating of silicone lubricant on the gears. It immediately started functioning. 

I let the main spring wind down then rewound the main spring a few more times. 

After confirming the clock mechanism is functional I plugged it back on to the wiring harness. It immediately activated the arming switch. I watched it through a couple of rewind cycles to verify it is fully functional again. 

Thanks to everyone for the excellent information that saved me about $82 (for a quartz movement). 

[JZRIV]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1966-67-Buick-Riviera-GS-Gran-Sport-BORG-Dash-Cluster-Clock-GM-1374269/352164938939?hash=item51feaa84bb:g:2GwAAOSw9DVZuaCr&vxp=mtr

 

[wimpyv6]

Not sure what happened to my first try to post this.  

 

Thank you to all who contributed to the threads on clock repair.  I've had the car for over 40 years and the clock never worked.  Never bothered me in the least until recently, not sure why.  Some filing, light machine oil and manually winding the spring for a couple of days and it's 'thunking'  once again.   

 

thanks, len.

[RIVNIK]

Sorry to throw a monkey wrench into the conversation, but I never really needed a clock as I always wear a wristwatch. I recommend replacing it w an oil pressure gauge. Best "upgrade" I ever made.  I get immensely more peace of mind from knowing my oil pressure than knowing the time. But I'm retired & have no place to be on time for. By the way, the clock is in a box in the shed for whichever one of you guys becomes the next owner (after you pry my cold dead hands from the wheel)

[EmTee]

2nd gen Rivieras already have factory oil pressure and temperature gauges.  There was a thread awhile ago (https://forums.aaca.org/topic/354102-thinking-to-reinstall-air-conditioning-in-my-67/?tab=comments#comment-2138276) where someone was modifying their 2nd gen clock to accept a custom tachometer.  Scroll down to the photos of the gauge cluster...

[Turbinator]

Gents, I had my clock set up with a new quartz movement. 
I put a water temp gauge and oil pressure gauge in the ash tray. The ash tray closes the gauges out of sight.

[Paul K.]

With your new quartz movement, does the clock's second hand have a smooth or "tick-tock" sweep?

 

Older quartz kits only offered the smooth movement but I have heard some of the newer ones have a "tick-tock" movement like the original mechanical movement.   

[Turbinator]

Gents, I put in an original 63 clock that had a quartz movement  put in the clock.  I know about the jerky motion of the sweep ( second hand) on quartz movement. Truth told my quartz movement is rather smooth. I'm a wrist watch & clock person so another clock in the car in addition to my wrist watch is not too much.

Turbinator

[Turbinator]

On 11/3/2017 at 7:03 AM, telriv said:

I have a few 1st. gen clocks sitting around as I'm sure many others have in the ROA. One of us could rebuild one & convert it to a Quartz movement for a fee paid in advance. As far as removing it's got to be one of the simplist things to do on a 1st. gen. Grab & turn to the left. dis-connect wires, done. If it WON'T come out or turn do a search on this forum for an explanation.

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

Tom, I took my clock out and reinstalled the clock after I paid a clock shop to put the quartz movement in the clock. Turning the chrome bezel on the clock was hard for my weak hands, but I got it done.

[RivNut]

For those of you who have trouble removing the clock from the dash, the old ROA trick is to put the plastic lid of an aerosol paint can over the clock.  It will give you something to really hold on to.

[jframe]

I've discovered that once you get it loose the first time, the next time seems to go easier as well.

[kegart]

The rubber gripping toolbox drawer liner works better than spray can top for me.

 

Kevin 

[XframeFX]

On 10/21/2021 at 5:21 PM, Turbinator said:

Turning the chrome bezel on the clock was hard for my weak hands, but I got it done.

I saved a Liquid Tide measuring cup (that fits over the spigot). Excellent tool.

 

Story:

I ordered a conversion kit in 2020, did the conversion upon arrival. Then looked over parts from spare clocks to pick the best chrome bezel. A month earlier someone gave me parts and the bezel came off his clock as it was perfect. Then while out of the can, I noticed it worked! Tested over night, perfect time! I swapped the bezel and used the converted clock anyway - - - Typical BUICK Luck, bad timing, again.

[Turbinator]

On 11/9/2017 at 7:56 PM, NC1968Riviera said:

saved me about $82 (for a quartz movement). 

Saving money is like making money plus 20%. I throw in the 20% extra because the savings gave you legit tax avoidance.

[JFranklin]

3 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Saving money is like making money plus 20%. I throw in the 20% extra because the savings gave you legit tax avoidance.

I figure plus 20% federal but also 9% in my state. I tell my friends this but don't know if they get it.

[65VerdeGS]

I use one of those thick rubber bands they wrap broccoli stalks with.  Works great to grip the clock bezel.

[Turbinator]

11 hours ago, 65VerdeGS said:

use one of those thick rubber bands they wrap broccoli stalks with

GS65…… Among the best pieces of info or tips I can use. Getting the clock bevel off had me going after a pipe wrench! Thank you Turbinator 

[Turbinator]

On 10/24/2021 at 11:29 PM, JFranklin said:

figure plus 20% federal but also 9% in my state. I tell my friends this but don't know if they get it.

BFranklin, it’s all about the Benjamins!

The more you can keep the tax man from taking a horrendous bite of your money the easier it is to build a nest egg. I’m no tax expert but I have advised 7-11 and John’s Hopkins Hospital they were taxing wrong. Had to do with what qualified as groceries. I got my tax money back from JHU after writing the Comptroller of the State. I pay my taxes legit, but if you are going to tax me get it right. Ive asked friends what is your “effective tax rate” been over the years? Most don’t know. Can you imagine?

[cquisuila]

i have a new conversion kit quartz for this clock !!

 

if someone is interested...

 

I already put this kit in my  car and it is efficient !!

[NailheadBob]

After taken apart and cleaned, a friend of mine uses "WURTH" contact cleaner ol , comes in a 5.5 oz small spray can, # 0890-101-101

[Byondxtrme]

I cleaned and oiled my clock, then it started spinning really fast till smoke came pouring out, so I guess I need a new clock lol

[kegart]

Things  never seem to work the same after you let the smoke out of them.

 

Kevin 

Edited December 15, 2021 by kegart (see edit history)

[PWB]

The replacement quartz clock power terminals are polarity sensitive.

That’s how they get smoked.

Ive done it without knowing and my Chevy clip once went on either direction - it had both negative and positive in one terminal clip.

 

 

Edited December 15, 2021 by PWB (see edit history)

[Turbinator]

On 12/15/2021 at 1:24 PM, kegart said:

Things  never seem to work the same after you let the smoke out of them.

 

Kevin 

“I can’t feel the fire or see the flame I found a matchbook with another man’s name. Oh, baby ain’t it a shame it’s you to blame I smell smoke” Jon Tiven “

“I Smell Smoke”

I took my clock out and sent it away for a quartz movement. Works good.

No way was I trying that rebuild when it’s all I can do to install a radiator!

[RivNut]

Getting the original clocks to work is relatively easy if you understand how they operate.  First thing you need to realize is that the clocks are not electric, there’re driven by a spring, like your grandpas old pocket watch except that the spring needs to be would about every minute or so.  The clock has a 12V wire running to it but it’s only function is to provide a spark that ends the main spring.  To get the clock to operate, take off the housing and find the “Points.” At least that’s what they look like.  Clean the with a points file (your wife’s emory board will do.). Spray the clock with some canned air like you use to clean computers.  Ground the base and put 12V to the + terminal and see if the man spring will wind.  If it does and the clock won’t start, grab it an start twisting you wrist as if you were shaking a martini.  That should get things moving.  Watch it for a while, around a minute or less until the spring completely unwinds. When it unwinds, the “points” should close.  Applying 12V to the + terminal again should rewind the clock and it’s all mechanical again.  That fraction of a second of 12V every so often is all it takes to keep it running. Once the old dust and dirt has been cleaned from the gears, a couple drops of oil should be all it takes to keep the clock running for a long time.  If your clock loses time, every time you reset it, you are internally adjusting it to run faster.  If your clock gains time, every time you rest it, you are internally adjusting it to run slower.  Never reset it forward or backwards 12 hours or you will really mess up the internal adjuster.  The clock is perhaps the simplest apparatus in the entire car.  Try it and let us know if you were successful. 

[Turbinator]

On 9/9/2021 at 7:03 AM, RIVNIK said:

 I get immensely more peace of mind from knowing my oil pressure than knowing the time.

I must go along with you on knowing the oil pressure and water temp. I put my two gauges in the ashtray. No one commented. That's ok I know what I need to know.Your idea of putting a gauge in. where the clock is makes plenty sense. SMITHS makes a dual function gauge with water temp and oil pressure. A little pricey at $150.00 or so, but it's good quality. I had the SMITHS in but a mechanical accident occurred and had to take it out.

Turbinator

[XframeFX]

7 hours ago, RivNut said:

Once the old dust and dirt has been cleaned from the gears

If the light socket has been out or missing, the innards have obviously been exposed.

Someone gave me a clock from a parts bin. It still had a light socket with the cut wire. It worked fine, not needing anything. It just kept ticking!