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Everything posted by rodneybeauchamp

  1. Wow. This is amazing stuff. Many many thanks to you both. I lusted after a ‘67 GTO years back but never happened when I was into Pontiac. FYI am writing an Automotive fiction novel and one main character has a ‘67 GTO so it features prominently. I want the details to be accurate for the reader so information you both provided and video Glenn provided about the his/hers shifter are gold. If it didn’t come as an option someone fitted it. It makes for an exciting action scene. Dave, those photos of your restoration underway are magic as they give me lots of accurate details that I can pop in. The idle specs are important as when you start these GM engines, they immediately go to fast idle. So the shifts into reverse and drive in the automatic transmission are always going to jolt the driver. I enjoy reading but a pet peeve is books that gloss over technical things or leave them out or worse get it wrong because the author didn’t research. Anyone can describe stone walls and green trees or a picture on the wall. So having the “ GTO driver slow and pull over left, then make a wide U turn. Gunning the big 400 back up the highway, slamming the his/hers shifter into second and chirping the tyres as the needle sweeps the hood mounted tachometer” is probably a bit more exciting as well as being technically correct! many many many thanks Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
  2. Hi? Can someone advise the correct fast idle speed and normal idle speed for the GTO with 400cu in motor. A/C car specs preferred. Does the hood mounted tachometer read left to right or right to left? What is the red line marked at. Does the His / Hers automatic shift hold gears 1-2-3 without shifting? thank you Rodney 😊😊😊😊😊😊
  3. Keith, nice video. Great to see all the gremlins sorted. From what is posted in the forums, 99% of carburettor related issues are electrical. May pay you to make up your own set of wires, if they are copper core you can solder the connections. All the bits are available including vintage cloth covered wire. BTW, noticed the symmetrical dash design that could fit both LH and RH drive. Interesting note about the build in Canada and exports to Commonwealth countries. In Australia and New Zealand, Britain was always “the preferred supplier”, hence the abundance of Pommie Austins, Vauxhalls, Morris etc which for our vast continent were underpowered, heavy and slow. American cars were much more suitable for the poor roads and long distances experienced down under. However, the USA was not part of the Commonwealth, therefore making cars and trucks in Canada was a smart move. Lots of them were sent over as CKD (completely knocked down) or as chassis with driveline but without the body. Bodies were built here because of the high import tariffs imposed on fully imported vehicles. Many of the Commonwealth countries were RHD, so made sense for the lower production to be produced and exported from a different factory. Being next door to the US automakers, LHD for Canada consumption was probably a no brainer. Certainly the strong ties to Britain “ the Mother country” had a big influence for many many years on the automotive landscape throughout the Commonwealth countries of Australia, New Zealand, South Africa. Look forward to the next one. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  4. There is a f/b site dedicated to 61-63 Special and Skylark with several folks selling parts. Worth joining and post your needs there, as well as here. good luck Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
  5. Well, not a weekend, today is Wednesday but when your recently retired, everyday feels like Saturday. A friend and I went to look at a collection of cars at a large rural property, so took him out in the Riviera. Mainly a collection of Ford based hot rods and later model Australian Ford Falcon sedans. The owner had just rebuilt the Ford engine in a Willys Ute and the guy who helped him with the rebuild had also come over for the initial start while we were there. He had driven up in his ‘76 Chevrolet Monte Carlo. After a few tries and working out the timing was 180 degrees out it burst into life but would run out of fuel. A loose connection on the electric fuel pump soon fixed that, so we left them both to break in the camshaft. And a photo opportunity presented itself, I suppose they are probably distant cousins? Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  6. Hi Paul, what a great project. Looking forward to following your thread. Really admire you guys that take on the challenge of not just a full restoration but a true Pre-War car. They evoke a feeling of a different time, a different world, a different mindset! Dont forget to go over what the previous owner has done ( or not done ) as you can never assume it was done properly. Enjoy! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
  7. Looks like it, they are both Right Hand Drive 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔 Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  8. Was thinking the plug size would not need to be too large. Early Buick used one of the 3/8” - 7/16” lower hold down bolts for the back cover as a drain, so something that size may work. Might take longer to drain but that’s not a big deal. Just my thoughts Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  9. They would look smart! The Special have a four stud bolt pattern which limits what you can do. A few convert them to five stud but that means drilling the axles. Have seen four spoke Cragars that look good, but think what you have there is spot on. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  10. Ted, nice little wagon. Love the rear end, very unique. Sad that GM decided to upsize their compacts in ‘64 as they were really the right size in 61-63. Really jealous of those 15” wheels, they would look great with the wire wheel covers off a first generation Riviera. Interested to know your plans and follow your thread. FYI there is an active FB forum for these cars. Members seem a mixed bag, some are happy to do the “ gotta fit disc brakes and a Chev 350” scenario but there are enough who keep them as they should be. cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  11. Still plodding along, seems like it’s taking forever but …… New ignition switch now installed, all good. Was given the correct lock without a key by a friend and surprisingly my key fits. The correct lock fills the entire hole in the surround unlike the NOS set I bought that leaves a gap. Now it looks like it is supposed to look! 😀😀😀😀😀 Managed to get all the OIL, AMP and TEMP to light up but it did not turn the starter over so need to check what’s not right. That’s for another day. And starting to install the sound deadening materials, will possibly finish up the front floor first and pop the seats back in. Still trying to figure the best way, thinking I just want something to go back together 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔 Finished up taking the driver seat trim apart again. When it was in the car there was something inside the cushion pressing against the trim on the RH side and figured it would tear through eventually if left. Found a section of spring had dislocated from the rest where it had been joined with a metal joiner. Managed to tie it back together with some heavy wire to keep it in check. Little things but they all take time. Photo with arrow shows where it was pushing against the trim. Anyway, unless there are pictures, it never happened. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  12. That license plate frame is priceless! Would love a pair of those on my Buick too! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  13. Hi John, welcome to the AACA forum. Nice to see another South Aussie on here. Forum is great place to find information and get help from people who have good knowledge. Enjoy! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  14. Final one I think is either grandpa or grandmas parents. Not sure, wasn’t thought of then. Not certain of the make of any of these cars! Enjoy Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  15. Next one is grandpa, don’t know who is passenger in the next.
  16. These come from my family albums. First is my mum and her two brothers and sister on the running board, her mum standing and her dad in the car. Her dad ( my grandpa) died quite young but I got to know grandma well! Not sure about the car but Essex maybe? BTW these are in Australia.
  17. Matthew, nice looking conversion. FWIIW I installed headlamp relays on my ‘38 inside each of the headlamp buckets so they could not be seen. Then used the 6 volt QH globes from Anthony Pearson. However if you find the LEDs suitable you should be fine. Looking good! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  18. Did this exact same process the other day with one bolt holding the seat track mechanism on my Skylark. These bolts rust where they protrude past the seat frame and fight all the way out until they break. I managed to break at least 3 out of eight on the Riviera seats. Filed what was left of the bolt flat and centre punched. Drilled out with a 1/8” drill, then used the correct tapping size drill I keep just for 5/16 UNC. Tapped it out easily. Most difficult part I have in all of this is getting the centre punch in the centre., this one worked a treat! Now if someone could learn me that skill! 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 Rodney
  19. Great news about the terminals. They turn up where you least expect them. And re the Speedhut gauges, am pretty chuffed with mine. Thought they were going to be too large but once fitted, thinking they look OK. Haven’t tested them yet as am waiting on an ignition switch to turn up. And can’t resist showing them off with a photo! cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
  20. Hi Jim, nice looking convertible, looks like it will be a lot of fun, Enjoy! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  21. And here is the second seat. You can see the outline made by the bumper hidden under the trim. A bit more use and there would be a hole. Second photo shoes it screwed into the correct exposed position. After undoing the trim, exposed the bumpers and these two metal contact plates. Third photo shows one bumper is shot and needs to be replaced. Surprisingly this frozen screw drilled out without too much hassle. Must be getting better with all the practise. 😀😀😀😀😀
  22. And the last couple of days chose to become a motor trimmer and fix up the two front seats while they were out. The professional trimmer had made some errors with the placement of the rubber bumper pads and metal contact plates where the seat squab meets the cushion. Even though they were not really noticeable to the average punter, I remembered these well from my ‘64 Skylark as one needed repair. On one seat the bumpers were correct and exposed, however there were no metal plates for them to rest on. Over time, the action would wear the trim and create a hole or a tear. Undoing the hog rings on the seam revealed both plates were missing and a holding screw had broken off. That took what seemed a lifetime to drill out but eventually it resisted no more. Had made up some plates using some steel strip that was drilled and countersunk to take the oval head trim screws I had. These fitted well and eventually got the trim back together. Removed and lubricated the slides, tightened up the release knob Allen screw and put the slides back on. Seat number two wasn’t so easy, yet took way less time! Unfortunately it is missing the chrome domed cover that fits on the end of the pivot shaft, so will need to address that also. In the meantime broke only one of the slide hold down bolts, so drilled and tapped that to 5/16UNC and found in my stash an identical spare bolt with the star washer. So far so good. On this seat, the trimmer had chosen to cover over the two bumpers with trim, which again would create a hole over time. This meant undoing a lot of the under side trim to expose the back of the cushion. Thankfully only one frozen screw here needed drilling out but that did not take long. The other came out OK with an impact driver. Unfortunately one bumper is really shot so will improvise until I can locate the proper part. Not too critical but needs to be replaced. Thought I could feel the outline of the contact plates on the squab, so undid the hog rings on that area and surprise, surprise …… two metal plates. Took those off and will probably use the ones I made until I find the right ones. Again not too critical but would be nice to replace them. Called it a day, will finish up the trim tomorrow! Lot happier now I know the folding seat contact points are correct. Don’t know what the trimmer was thinking, no excuses. We have digital cameras, IPads and phones to record every detail of every item that we are repairing. No excuses! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀 This is what it should look like. These are the plates that were made and fitted to the first seat. Screwdriver is pointing to the bumper. The broken screw for one of the plates was a bear to remove, seemed like it took a week to remove it!
  23. Plan was to replace the engine immobiliser with a simple kill switch as I figured if keys were lost or misplaced, then car would certainly be immobile. I can always carry or hide a spare key. Was going to incorporate the neutral start switch as well as ground the ignition but changed my mind after seeing the huge wire size that goes to that switch. I was not super confident that the switch I was using would carry the current so chose to just ground out the coil. That Micronta multimeter has been with me for around 30-35years and apart from a new set of leads and a few batteries, is a good friend to have. The diagram I drew in the box lid when I first bought it was a great help to me when learning to check resistance or voltage in identifying which lead goes where. All mounted, all good, just need to test but should be fine.
  24. Hi Mark, you will find those OEM terminal covers on most of the GM cars from the early ‘60s and perhaps even earlier. They look to be the same type of connections that are on my ‘63 Riviera and on my ‘63 Skylark convertible and appear identical to yours. If you have access to any GM parts car close by, you should be amply rewarded. You will also find that the original brass terminals will easily clean up with a Dremel with a small wire brush attachment as they may be harder to source. Good luck with your Special! Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  25. Hi Jim, great news, welcome to the “Special World” for special owners. Hope you start up a thread in “Me and my Buick” as always interesting to read others stories. Love to see some pictures when you bring it home. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
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