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Paul K.

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Everything posted by Paul K.

  1. Hi All, Reviving my old thread. Been busy selling cars vs fixing - I'm down to 4 from 10. Feels good. @CTX-SLPR, the all connectors in the plug are in place. The switch has one less spade connector than the plug. It seems the replacement headlight switch I was given from NAPA years ago was not correct. If anyone has recently purchased one that is correct and operates the parking lamps correctly please post. If not, @Ronncece did a nice retrofit but maybe I'll try doing this first externally with an insulated jumper wire.
  2. Tom, can you provide an approximate price for one of your boxes? Any core charges? Thanks.
  3. With a 50KV coil, you may consider upgrading from the OE spec 7mm spark plug wires to 8mm.
  4. With your new quartz movement, does the clock's second hand have a smooth or "tick-tock" sweep? Older quartz kits only offered the smooth movement but I have heard some of the newer ones have a "tick-tock" movement like the original mechanical movement.
  5. Contact cement always worked well for me but the new and "improved" LOW VOC stuff available here in CA is not what it was. +1 on the Gorilla Glue mentioned as well as the spray contact adhesive (3M makes a good one).
  6. One of our members from Australia posted this question in his reply on the $135k 65 GS Mecum sale thread. I didn't want to hi-jack the thread but did want to offer my experiences and opinion to someone outside the U.S. I think a lot of us that have been around the old car hobby for some years have seen busy markets before but not to this level. "Here in Australia classic cars are increasing in value/price. Everyone thought that COVID would suppress the price of classic cars. Not so, they have gone up! Has the same thing happened in USA & Canada?" Same. Higher prices here in the USA for many but not all makes. I can only speak for the vehicles I own and follow. The Porsche 911 air-cooled market is not just on fire but an INFERNO causing previously less desireable models (mid-years and 996s) to now become desireable and the only "affordable" (under $50k) entry-level Porsches. All 911 prices have gone up sharply since January '21. C3 Corvettes including small blocks and automatic trans models are up 30% and more compared to 18 months ago. 70s, 80s and 90s Cadillacs especially the RWD models are up in value. Other big GM, FoMoCo cars up. Big Chryslers now going up as a result. However, 60s and 70 Rolls and Bentleys saloons are flat overall but some low production models are up a tick. These years or R-R and Bentley don't move much in value unless they are depreciating such as the 80s and 90s saloons. Still going down. However 80s Corniche dropheads are up 25% and the 90s Corniche even more. Underappreciated makes and models are now gaining steam. $50k for a Studebaker Avanti R1? I've owned 5 Avantis and love them but also accept they are not for everyone. However, they've moved more "center" and are now "cool" to some that never considered one. 80s American and Japanese cars have been going up too. Who would have thought?? - A new generation is getting into the hobby. High values and activity has happened before in auto and other markets (real estate) where "a rising tide floats all boats". There are a lot of uneducated NOO-Bs that just have to "get in" the market and buy something before prices go higher is a lot of what I see out there. There will likely be a "correction" of sorts but when who knows? Personally, my tact has been to sell cars this last year and keep only the cars that I really like and enjoy. I'm down to 4 cars now and if I hade to sell them, my 64 Riv would be the last to go. 🙂
  7. I've heard alluminum can be manufactured thinner compared to copper/brass offering more possible tubes in a radiator package. Regardless, I always recore my original radiators but my last two radiator "guys" are gone (one literally) so I don't have anyone at the moment to recore a radiator if I had to. Here is a FAQ page with #1 and 7 addressing our topics. https://www.griffinrad.com/general_faq.php
  8. Yeah, I replaced this switch 10+ years ago and I vaguely remember the new NAPA switch missing one male spade connector which I assume was for the parking lights. Can't remember for sure, it was a long time ago. My dash pad is off so I want to get this figured out now.
  9. The switch in the car now is a replacement from NAPA. The parking lights haven't worked since its replacement. Maybe I was given the wrong switch?
  10. Thanks Rich, I appreciate your response.
  11. Do you still have the original drum brakes? If yes, are you happy with the braking with of your new brakes? If also yes, could you share which brand of brake shoe your mechanic used? It would be good to know a good brand as I had a set from NAPA years ago that were not good at all and required a lot of pedal effort. thx.
  12. Tom, Thanks for your response. I'm familiar with that relay but never knew what it was for. It is working. I edited my original question/post because I was mistaken. The parking lamps work only when the low beams are on. They don't work as parking lights like the original headlight switch. Is there a replacement switch that will get me back to the original function?
  13. I found this quote below from an old thread but it had many topics and I didn't revive it. " '64's had a relay. When the headlights were on low beam the orange/yellow parking lights would be on. When you hit the high beams the parking lights would go off ". I replaced it years ago with one from NAPA and since then, my parking lights work only when the low-beams are on. Did '64s have a different headlamp switch? Was the mentioned relay part of the switch or external?
  14. Thanks for this post and the photo. How many bulbs were needed to do both gauges and the console on a 64? There are many choices on Amazon for LED 194 Super Bright bulbs. They might all be the same but maybe not. If you could post the Amazon link to the actual ones you purchased that would be helpful. I like the look of yours and want to achieve the same results. Thanks!
  15. I think your correct. When I watched the video, It reminded me of the Cash for Clunkers program here in CA (maybe elsewhere too). The engines were "disabled" (ruined) by adding a concoction to the crankcase that seized the engine. https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1033857_killing-your-clunker-correctly-how-a-dealer-disables-it#:~:text=The 135 pages of Cash,of your traded-in clunker.&text=It's a combination of water,is drained and disposed of.
  16. Hi Tom, I've greased a few speedo cables but seeing an earlier thread saying the Riv cable won't come out from the bottom caused me to ask. Thank you for the VERY detailed instructions including the recommendation for the brand of grease. This is excellent information which will give a long lasting fix. I'll follow up with the results. Paul
  17. Hi All, Happy New Year. My 64 speedo is noisy and erratic mostily after the car sits after long periods. Sometimes its quiet but its always a little jumpy. Before it zeroes coming to a stop, it "growls" and sounds very rough. I've read the threads I could find here and I want to clarify I have to remove the cable from the top, assuming that lubing is the first thing to try? Can I remove the cable separate from the housing as possible on other makes? BTW, my dash pad is removed right now for an unrelated repair. Here is a YT video of the noise. Thanks!
  18. Don't see the link in this thread so here it is. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/1965-buick-riviera-gs-2?refer=news&utm_source=edaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2020-12-07
  19. Interesting Ed. I would remember one like that which is nothing like the one I had. I'll look for some photos.
  20. Its been 30 years since I sold this car but pretty sure our 65 GS with AM/FM had the radio reverberator switch or maybe it was a knob mounted there. The marking said "Reverb".
  21. Concensus from people on other forums is to never coat the inside of a fuel tank. It seems the coating eventually begins to peel and block the fuel lines. I'm curious if the first gen Riv shared its fuel tank with any other GM products before or later? Just going by number of gallons, later GM A bodies used 20 gallon tanks - same amount as the Riv.
  22. Hi Dave. Nice Riv and thanks for the photos. I see you are new to the forum so WELCOME!
  23. FYI for the Group. Needs a little work. 😁 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Riviera-GS/283968071954?hash=item421dd0e912:g:k1sAAOSwavNfKGWK
  24. Not sure if the same on 65 but on my 64 the trim plate where the courtesy light and accessory switches mount will be labeled "Courtesy" in the center positon and "Accessory" to the left of center or "Antenna" to the right depending on how the car was originally equipped. My 64 originally came with no power antenna or rear defrost so it has only one switch in the center of the trim plate for the courtesy light and only labeled "Courtesy". I installed a power antenna some years ago from a car in the Pick-A-Part and also took its trim panel and switch. This panel listed "Courtesy" in the middle of the plate and " Antenna" to the right. Nothing on the left, however, there are pre-drilled holes to mount a factory switch. Pretty sure this is all correct. 🙂
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