• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

559 Excellent

About Turbinator

  • Rank
    Turbinator ( Formerly Red Riviera Bob )
  • Birthday 09/24/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Lutherville, Maryland
  • Interests:
    music, outdoor activities involving landscaping and hardscaping, and playing music.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,860 profile views
  1. Tom, Actually I do not have any real experience with a pro level spray gun. I believe Bernie has good information on the MarHyde 2K primer. The trick is to get the primer to stick. I’m pretty sure applying the 2K Primer with a spray gun is a level or two above rattle can application. If you get runs and or orange peel with the primer you have a problem with the finish. The primer has to be smoothed out when you get runs and orange peel. Spraying for me is not something that comes natural.
  2. It is true what you say; however it is a test of his software and calculations. Like a trial run to see what changes, etc. he has to make so it is 100%.
  3. I am assuming the price of the vehicle would be in new condition adjusting for inflation based on today’s dollar. Pretty fancy work developing the solution in computer language and data gathering. I was always value and utility oriented as opposed to what the dollar was doing. Tough calculations keeping Up with inflation and measuring returns on investments. Thank you for your good work. Turbinator
  4. That is where the water came in on my car. I used a cup of water poured over the trim piece corners. No US currency needed. Turbinator
  5. Prevarication? I don’t think so. But, to check out this miracle chemistry bond I ordered My Hard Primer you friend told you works. we will see how it turns out. Turbinator
  6. Ed, I’m delighted it works for you. My experience has not been so good. So, being fairly intense I said I’ll fix this sucker and blasted it clean to the substrate. The paint sticks good. For powder coating the metal must be bare and de gassed as well. After messing a number of turbines I’m starting to catch on. Turbinator
  7. The pic is attached. The reason I used a “ hard rubber” is because that is what came off the door. Probably the guy before me put on the rubber. I was trying to get a decent seal without slowing the swing of the door. The rubber measured 7/32” thick. The adhesive I used was 3M 1357 Neoprene High Performance. The adhesive has a high resistance to heat. I bought the glue from Amazon. Be satisfied with whatever adhesive you use you are certain it is going to stay. You don’t want to have to do it again. Hope this helps you. Turbinator
  8. Bernie, I’m certain your information is solid from your pro friend. The information you provide is known as anecdotal evidence. The chemical bond the primer has with a chrome finish I’m sure is impressive. Since I have a pretty good blast cabinet and plenty media blast tape I’ll take the plating off with aluminum oxide. Evidence is a good start toward the proof.The evidence must be proven for it to be the truth. And then the truth may be spelled with the lowercase t. Turbinator
  9. Only, but a thought. Leave the trunk lid open. Poor a cup of water over the corners of the metal piece in front of the trunk. Watch the corners inside the trunk standing outside of the trunk. Another tell tail would be rust inside where trunk lid mounts. Turbinator
  10. I just finished replacing my worn and misaligned rubber on the doors you mentioned. I’ll get pic out of the rubber I used To replace the old worn stuff. Ive learned using adhesive both surface (s) must be free of dust and everything else. The grease and wax removal fluid does the trick. I’ve had bad luck with many adhesives. 3M makes some really good adhesive. Many companies make good adhesive. The 3M “ 857” or “1357” comes in a quart container is real good. Turbinator
  11. Ed, no argument from me on The how they etched and masked in mass production environment. We both know the factory didn’t use rattle can paint. The burning question remains is how much chrome plating has to be removed. The work piece Needs a surface the paint or powder coating to stick. If and only if the surface of the newly chromed needed scuffing with a simple abrasive the chrome shop would do the work? I bet the chrome Shop did not finish the job because it was not profitable for Them to treat the surface for paint. Since a customer goes to the trouble of having the thing chromed they would want the paint to stick for the next 50 years. One thing for sure your Suggested method can work for a period of time. The big BUT, how long will the paint stick? If the paint comes off it can be repainted.
  12. Ed, If you can paint over chrome and make it stick with a 3M scuff pad I’ve been doing it all wrong. The chrome must be removed so the coating can adhere to the substrate. Im happy to be wrong. I remain teachable. Turbinator
  13. The chrome plating has to be removed from the substrate so your coating ( paint or powdercoat adheres). Personally, i media blast the work piece with appropriate media like 80 grit aluminum oxide. Then chemical treatments for cleaning and improved finish of the coating. Of course all the dings and deep scratches have to be repaired before you paint or powder coat. Turbinator