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About 1965rivgs

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  1. I spent years running road calls as part of my employment responsibilities (which proved to be a great motivator to do the job well in the heat, and light, when next to a fully equipped tool box) and with some common sense and the tool combinations available one can put together an effective setup. Think consolidation and universal application. Use a screwdriver with changeable bits, combination wrenches, adjustable wrenchs, slip joint pliers, socket size adapters so one 3/8ths ratchet with extensions can accomodate 1/4" up to 1/2" sockets. I`d also add a decent size prybar and a small and med
  2. Hi Art, Yes, that is the first version in `64. Both versions are listed in the parts books. Pretty sure the later version started later in the `64 model year because I have a parts car that`s pretty late with the first version. Maybe owners can chime in and we can come to some conclusion? Tom M
  3. Hi Jim, Off the top of my head I would say yes but I`m not 100% confident of my memory. I would need to check the parts/cars I have on hand or the parts books. Yes, the rear cardboard is larger. Tom
  4. A test light and a jumper wire which stretches from the battery to the coil...at least for awhile! Tom
  5. Art, As far as I know the `63 style is on the left, `64 style in the middle. I suppose there could have been some carryover from `63 into `64 or if a `63 accessory kit was installed... but I`ve closely examined alot of first gen cars over the years and those are the model years I associate each unit with...and the slotted screws ARE definitely factory. Tom
  6. Off the top of my head I think the positive from the starter solenoid makes its way to the engine harness plug via a 2 wire male and female plug in the area of the positive junction block/horn relay...there should be a purple wire which is the trip wire for the starter solenoid and a yellow(?) which eventually sends voltage back to the coil. It would be very, very easy to check for voltage on the yellow wire while cranking to troubleshoot the contacts in the starter solenoid....literally a 2 minute troubleshooting task Tom
  7. Both the ignition switched resistant circuit and the ignition positive which originates from the starter solenoid combine, or come together, at the terminal in the plug which feeds the engine harness at the firewall. From there, the two combined circuits feed current to the positive post of the coil via a single pink wire and a single terminal at the coil. Any failure of the crimp/splice at the terminal in the engine harness plug, in the pink wire, or a failure in the crimp between the terminal at the coil and the pink wire could mimic a failure of one or both circuits. Mark described the hors
  8. Correct...issues with the resistant wire and the ignition switch are very common. Kind of weird that it would happen at the same time the wire came off at the coil though...but coincidences happen. Tom
  9. Morning Bob, Not sure how you tested each of the components but I`m assuming you tested the latch mechanism via the hose which originates at the pull knob cannister? If so, did the test of the latch mechanism hold vacuum? If so, you might have a piched hose or quite possibly the latch mechanism is binding and the bind cant be overcome by the actuator. Try testing the latch mechanism at the mechanism itself and see if it retracts. I`m sure you have this covered but if you need any components I think I have one `63 and one `64 system left in my parts stash. Tom
  10. Hi G-G-Go, I would be interested in the switch marked "rear defroster" if you would be willing to remove same. Sending a message, Thanks, Tom Mooney
  11. Hi Jason, The NOS drums I pictured do have the 3 holes to accomodate rivets...but who knows exactly when they were manufactured? The used drums I pictured were removed from a `70 Electra Tom
  12. 1965rivgs


    `64 has a one key system Art, Tom
  13. Another very common leak that is "sneaky" is at the speedo adapter...large o ring on the OD of the adapter and a small o ring with retainer in the center Tom Mooney
  14. Check for voltage on the positive wiring terminal with the terminal removed from the coil. A bad module could be shorted to ground, same with the coil windings, basically "robbing" voltage away from your test light bulb because a short could be the path of least resistance. Even if you have a serious mechanical problem with the motor you still need voltage to the coil to have an ignition system. The starter, when engaged, should be sending full system voltage and the ignition switch, when "on", should be sending a reduced voltage to the positive wiring terminal. Tom
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