arnulfo de l.a.

try this man . His name is Mario. He is in Cali. 9097865323

Yes you should. I hear a click on bothvericle and horizon tang. You don't need to pull your switch apart if working properly in fact I would advise against it. Use a continuity tester to check it before u take it apart.

Wanted to mention that the top picture is the position of the kick down at idle. You can see how power is being fed to the converter thru the micro in this position, then directly at mid point which would be part throttle. The bottom picture show where the contractor would be at full throttle with both the converter and tranny kick down solenoid receiving power.

Here you go . This is what David is talking about. Took mine apart too because my kick down was not working. The Kick Down sends power to the micro and the micro sends power to the converter at idle so you don't get that creep at a stop. Then at part throttle the kick down sends power to the converter again , this time directly ,bypassing the micro. At full throttle the kick down switch sends power to the tranny kick down solenoid as well as power to the converter. Hope this helps

Adjust limit switch? ( or otherwise known as micro switch )

You are welcome David. Wondering if you got the horn working also

That sounds better than air shocks and more durable . Going to look into them. Thank you for the info!

Did they go inside the coil springs any cutting involved? Don't want to cut my original coil springs . Great idea! But won't work for me. My car scrapes on the frame between the rear axel and transmission Thanks for that info Johnrex. It seems none of the manufacturers that used to make them for our gen rivis no longer do.( MONROE,GABRIEL,ACDELCO). Going to give KANTER a call Monday. Hoping I can use the 2nd gen AIRLIFT compressor with them. It's a digital controller . Eliminates the analog air pressure gauge . Thanks for all the help men!

First of all BEAUTIFUL CAR! I think 225/75/15 but could be wrong. Whatever you have on there now looks perfect. I tried a 225/75/15 recently with a 1” adapter and got rubbing on the top side of the fender. I don’t think the tire would have rubbed without the adapter. I also did not like the way the tire looked . Too balloony and big for my taste

Thanks Ed

Anybody have them in their first gen riv? If yes what brand? I'm considering them because I have a steep edge going into my driveway that my car scrapes on. I know long ago you could get them with a little compressor that you mounted in the trunk. That's what I would go with. Don't want to do air bags and for sure no hydraulics. Any insight appreciated.

WOW! That is a GREAT price assuming it's a quality triple plate job I.e. Copper,nickel,chrome. Time will tell if it is or not . It does not take long for a poor chrome job to show by way of fading and/ or chipping. At those prices it's worth shipping them

What Tom states is true. I switched to a hei distributor done by DAVES HEI. And in all honesty ,I see no real difference in start up, idle or overall performance from points ignition. The car started ,idled and performed as expected from a happy ,healthy engine with points so really not much room for improvement by just upgrading the ignition system. I do like the fact that there is no wear so no need to readjust gap and timing. That alone makes the change over worth it to me. Did the same to my 2 panhead Harley's (63 Frankenstein, factory 65 flh) so all I have to do is set em and forget em. So far no problems with the bikes or riviera.

Man I'm glad my heater or ac don't work! I would end up doing whatever necessary to remove the core from the inside so as to avoid cutting any metal. Would removing the front seats, dash , maybe console facilitate this task?

I live in Los Angeles Ed. When the need arises I will consider the 90 fin as a second option .