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About 65VerdeGS

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  • Birthday 08/16/1965

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  • Location:
    Vancouver, BC


  • Biography
    I've owned my '65 Gran Sport since 1983.

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  1. Hi Ricky, Well my friend you may be in luck. The turn signal switch for tilt column for '63-'65 is being produced again by Shee-Mar. See here: https://www.shee-mar.com/sm221-buick-wtilt-wheel.html This switch has been out of production for some time and none of the usual parts vendors had any when I checked a few weeks ago. Today I thought to call Shee-Mar on the off chance they might have one available again. Turns out they've made another batch and have updated their website accordingly. This switch is also available through Rock Auto:https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1482186&jsn=272 I suggest you call Shee-Mar to confirm whether this switch is correct for your '66. From the photo you posted, it sure looks like the exact some switch to me. Good luck,
  2. I've seen lots of variation in the color of the woodgrain stain. Some do appear rather reddish, others more of a neutral walnut brown but vary in how dark or light they are, perhaps related to sun fading. The woodgrain optional plastic steering wheel and the top of the shift knob are a neutral medium brown, not reddish in any way. These seem consistent from car to car. When I redid the wood paneling in my '65 I did my best to match the original color of the veneer as seen where it was not exposed to light (i.e. under the door panel stainless surround mouding), which was not reddish in any way.
  3. Hi Gene - what are you wanting to get for that '65 rear bumper? Is it a rechromed core? Or good original? Any dents?
  4. That's pretty cool seeing a '65 Riviera rolling around London, UK! In my few visits there I never ever saw one. This one has Gran Sport badging, so if original making it even more rare. Driving a 60's American car in the UK is a challenge as most streets and country lanes are VERY narrow. I'm curious if the exhaust in this car is routed out the hole in front of the rear tire? Never seen that done before, it kind of gives a semi-sidepipe look... The tangerine color is not original, but looks good! These cars were imported into Britain when new. The RH drive conversion was mandatory, and was done by several companies back in the day. I think the cost of conversion added about 50% to the car's list price, so this was by no means cheap! So, owning a '65 Riviera in the UK meant you had some serious cash at your disposal. I wonder what the history is behind this Riv? I could well have been imported/owned by a celebrity, or wealthy person of some sort.
  5. Hi Steve, Thanks for your offer of a template for the seat base - good idea! Until I find all the right brackets and pieces to get it as per factory, I'm using two plastic seat base moldings that approximate the look of the original bases. I got one for the drivers and one for the passenger side from a friend who restores Buicks. I'm not sure which car they came from, but suspect they came from another '60's Buick as they fit under the seats reasonably well. I painted them my dark green to match my interior and nobody would know they aren't correct unless they knew what to look for. Here's the driver's side, held in place with one screw. As I leave the power seat in the same position most the time, the base molding just rides there, held by the single screw. If I move the seat the molding pops off the screw hole so it won't slide with the seat as the original would. No big deal. Thanks again for your offer.
  6. Hi Brian, Thank you for the info on how you tacked this problem! Good idea to check my passenger seat track to see if something might have fallen into the track to stop the seat from going back as far as it can. Cheers,
  7. Hi KongaMan, My ability to detect colors isn't so great and the wiring is old and somewhat faded... Here are two pics of the wires I tested. This one is from the left (driver) side: Here I'm testing the wire that feeds the parking light filament - tester glows steady, as does the bulb. When I turned the signal on to this side and put the tester probe to the other wire NOTHING happens. So, I then tested the Right (passenger) side. Here you can't see which wire I've inserted the probe into because the connector wired to the turn signal housing isn't long enough to pull it out beyond the top edge of the fender. On this side when I tested the wire feeding the parking lamp the tester lights up solid. When I tested the dark blue (?) wire which feeds the turn signal filament, the test light glows in unison with the signal bulb flashing. This was my way to find out if the problem is 'upstream' from the lamp socket and associated wiring. From this I take it the problem is with the wiring to the signal switch, or inside the signal switch itself. Your thoughts?
  8. Hi Bill, Are you selling just the metal bracket? Is the black plastic trim piece included, or for sale separately? Thanks,
  9. Last night I did some more troubleshooting of the left front turn signal that fails to flash. I traced the wires that come from the turn signal housing up the fender to a junction where they're plugged in via a connector to the engine compartment harness on each side (Left and Right). Using my handy test probe I checked the connector from the turn signal housing where it's plugged into the wiring harness in the engine compartment. I first checked the working Right (passenger) side to determine which wire feeds which filament in the bulb. Here's what each wire feeds: PURPLE - parking lamp BLUE - turn signal Then I turned on the parking lamps and engaged the Right hand turn signal. When I probed with my tester to the Purple wire, the tester lamp glowed solid. When put to the Blue wire, the tester lamp flashed in unison with the turn signal flasher. All good. Next, I did the same for the Left side. All good with the Purple wire (parking light), but NOTHING coming from the Blue (turn signal) wire. I tried this same test various times, and the results were always the same. This tells me the problem is between the connector at the fender and the turn signal switch, not the bulb socket or wiring behind it. So, before I condemn the turn signal switch, anywhere else I can test to isolate the problem? How would I test the turn signal switch itself? I don't think there is enough room to get the ice pick probe in to the back of the switch to test it this way. I do have a small Voltmeter - how would I use this to test the operation of the signal switch? Sigh... 😑
  10. In a recent post about carpet replacement, Brian (71GS) said: The carpet I removed was cut exactly like yours so I assume that’s correct. I requested Clark’s not to cut mine as I relocated the front seats back 3”. I'm 6’4” and needed the extra room. Big improvement for me. Brian - if you see this post, how did you relocate your seats to gain more legroom? My Riv is a '65, with 4-way power driver's seat and manually adjustable passenger seat. If it matters, mine has the deluxe interior. I'm only 6 foot tall, so the driver's seat can stay as-is for me. However, it sure would be nice to afford the passenger a bit more legroom. The passenger seat won't go back quite as far as the driver's seat will. Not sure if that's the way they were made. So, what did you to to obtain more travel for the passenger seat to go back further? Thanks,
  11. How do I remove the front turn signal housing to replace, repair the bulb socket? I can't see an obvious way to get to the rear of the housing to remove it. Does part of the wheel well liner have to come out first? In pawing through some old boxes of parts I found an entire front turn signal housing with cover, grille, etc. The contacts in this housing do move back & forth on their little springs. So, if I can't get what's on the car now to work because the contacts are seized, my backup plan is now to replace the entire housing for the spare which has a good socket. Thanks for all your advice and tips.
  12. Thanks Ed for posting the video, very helpful! How coincidental the guy used a '65 Riv front turn signal hosing to demonstrate the fix! But fIrst I'll try KongaMan's tip to see if I can free up the original wires with some lube. Maybe WD40 would help? If that doesn't do it then I'll do the repair as shown in the video. But to back up just a bit - if the problem is the frozen contacts in the socket, shouldn't I confirm that current is actually getting to the socket contacts first by using my circuit tester before tearing into the socket repair? Here's the procedure I'm thinking to follow: Remove bulb Turn on parking lights Tun on left front signal Place tester probe at each contact in the socket, with the tester grounded to the car's bumper (or battery?). The tester should light at each contact to indicate current is getting to the socket terminals (steady for the parking light, flashing at the signal contact.) I'm hoping this procedure will exclude the turn signal switch as the source of the problem. Do you agree with the above suggested testing procedure? Thanks, and have a good weekend, everyone!
  13. Hi Ed, Thanks for your input. I'm the OP. I did check the offending socket last year. I can't recall if the contacts were springy, or not. My circuit tester confirmed there was no power to the contact that ignites the bright filament. That socket is the original 55 year old unit and it was somewhat corroded. So, I took some steel wool and removed whatever corrosion I could get to. Another hassle is the bulb is very difficult to replace. I usually wind up breaking the bulb when trying to remove it. Is there any sort of 'lube' that can be used to make bulb Re & Re easier? Also, the bulb doesn't sit well in the socket and I've had to cram a piece of crud around the base of the bulb to get it to make proper contact. I've read here that these sockets can be a source of trouble, so replacing mine will be a next step. I don't have a spare bulb socket on hand, so that's another thing to get if tonight's "wiggling of wires" doesn't solve my no front left signal problem. Cheers,
  14. Thanks guys - you may be on to something! I'll wriggle under the dash (again - I've done it enough times to be quite adept at it by now) and fuss with the signal switch connector to see if wriggling it will bring the circuit back to life. Also, will check the bulkhead connector under the hood. I hope the wiring from the switch to the bulkhead is identified in the Shop Manual or I won't know which of the 6 wires sends power to the front left signal.. Oh, could do this by elimination, but I don't think the wife has the patience to be my eyes on the outside while I fiddle under the dash to find the offending wire. Update to follow...👀