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About Turbinator

  • Rank
    Turbinator ( Formerly Red Riviera Bob )
  • Birthday 09/24/1950

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Lutherville, Maryland
  • Interests:
    music, outdoor activities involving landscaping and hardscaping, and playing music.

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  1. Rivnik, I bought a NAPA battery. I put a Delco battery topper on the battery. I turned the battery so the NAPA logo is hidden. Looks good and cranks the engine just fine. There is no prestige in needlessly over spending on items you can easily mask and still maintain good looks.( when I was working I bought really good shirts and ties and reasonably priced suits at Jos Bank.) Turbinator
  2. Bernie, a leather cover and installed for under $400.00? Hopefully, your estimate serves you well. I was thinking around $650.00. I hope I’m wrong. My home custom painted Dash To looks good. I had to revisit some fitting surfaces on the DashTop with some sanding and reattachment of the edges of the cover. Seems I overlooked some important areas that needed to be snugged. I use Loctite Ultra Control gel glue.The stuff holds better than any mastic I’ve used in the past. A little pricey at $4. For 4 grams(.14 fluid Oz). The price at $28.00 an ounce is a bargain for the utility you receive. I send a pic along after awhile I’m doing some electrical work under the dash for an accessory light and noise suppressor for the radio. im also trudging on with the AC. Turbinator
  3. PWB, thank you for your observation and input. I’m no metal finishing or auto paint expert in the least. Finishing the webs on the 63 and 64 take time..a lot of time. I’m powder coating the webs in an effort to restore for a better product. The powder coat has a harder surface and hopefully hold up better than paint. Cast aluminum powder coating is tricky. Not rocket science. If you don’t treat the metal correctly during the powder coating the finish can have tiny bubbles. Ask me how I know. Thanks again for the help. Turbinator
  4. Ed, your recipe format is correct. Walnut shells and the 2000, 3000 grit sandpaper will not cut the mustard. At least on the gems I’m bringing in!🤓 Turbinator
  5. Well done. Both speedo cable and noisy universal joint(s) on my 63 required repair. Good job! Turbinator
  6. It’s im[ortant to keep the little b and little d straight. When I’m at a real dinner with linen tablecloth and more knives forks and spoons placed at my plate I wonder where my bread and water are placed. Well, hold out your left hand and make the ok sign anthe formation resembles the letter b for bread. Now, do the right hand the same way and the form is d for drink. Now you don’t have to worry about drinking someone else’s water or eating another’s bread. I’m loaded with a lot of useless information. Turbinator Mr. Rivnik, this note is for Mr Rivnut. Thank you for the help. I’m happy that baby was not glued on.!
  7. Gents, are the webs in between the vanes on the 63 Turbine wheel cover anodized? Seems like the very best 63 turbine covers I’ve seen the metal in between webs does not have the same finish appearance as the circumference, top of the vanes and center cap crown. I speculated the webs had been treated with a different sanding treatment OR just anodized. I’m giving this topic a rest. Thanks to everyone’s helpful comments. Turbinator
  8. Gents, after pulling and tugging this way and that on A pillar chrome trim piece before I asked for help the thing feel in my lap with just a jiggle by hand. I cannot explain the goofy occurrence. i can go forward. Thanks to all Turbinator
  9. Pat, I saw those 64 Turbines. I thought they were in very fine condition. At $999.00 he is right on the $. I did not see where the center cap, two bar spinner, and emblem were listed? Turbinator
  10. Rivnik, thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to tell me what is obvious to most people. Many things mechanical mystify me. Mechanical work is a challenge I enjoy see coming to a successful conclusion. I’ll post a before and after pic of the project. Thanks again Turbinator
  11. Jim, thank you. The trim is the interior. I ve taken the screws loose of all the trim in the roof interior. I took out the trim piece at the junction of the A Pillar trim and the front and drivers side meeting place. I loosened the screws holding the plastic trim piece that snugs against the trim piece on the dash. The interior A pillar trim seems to wrap around material on both sides of the trim. I'm tight vertically and horizontally for trim piece movement. I do not want to damage the chrome trim piece trying to remove the piece. ( I have a compass with a light that mounts with the rear view mirror and I need to run the power wire down to the dash lights is why I want to remover the A pillar trim piece. Additionally, with A Pillar trim piece removed it makes it easier for me to get the dash pad in and out. Oh, I've removed the Dash pad. Thank you Turbinator
  12. Gents, I'm trying to remove drivers side A pillar trim. Without taking a lot of the car apart I have stumbled trying to take the trim off and still be able to use the trim again. If anyone knows of literature that shows how to remove the trim on the A pillar I would be grateful. Turbinator
  13. Jason, sound advice. I could not have said it any better. I stayed with the drum brakes did exactly as you suggested. my car stops real good. Turbinator
  14. Many worthwhile lessons working on my 63 Riviera. Stuff like basic electric circuit testing, making good electrical connections, understanding the value of a good ground. Learning to adjust the turn signal switch on the steering column was a lot of fun. Putting on new rubber bushings for the steering front and back, new shocks, newly rebuilt steering box, getting the speedo to work AND provide the correct speed on the speedometer. Right now I'm reinstalling my complete AC system with new components. If you have a whole pile of money you could pay someone to restore the car but it wouldn't be fun. Turbinator,
  15. TexRiv_63, this is my 3rd season trying to get the air straight in my 63. Ive had plenty of lessons on restoring the AC system. I finally just bought all the components new and gave up on the STV and will install the STV eliminator kit. The reason I bought all new was I could not find anyone in my area that would work on vintage AC. My system was contaminated over and over and the STV's were failing so I said for a few more dollars I'll get everything new and hopefully the AC will work. Over the past two years I've read manuals, talked to people on the forum off the forum and got a lot of experience trying to fix it myself. So, I bought gauges, vacuum testers, vacuum pump, dry nitrogen & gauges, vacuum switches, new vacuum hoses, new vacuum actuators. Yeah, if I didn't get measurable satisfaction from the learning process I would have given up a long time ago. The number of dollars spent trying to get the AC to work? I don't want to look up the receipts. Oh, I got the hoses rebuilt with triple wall specifications. Were I the person wanting to fix up GrandDads car I would welcome sage advice. If my pockets were deep and my arms were long I"d find a mobile Specialty shop in Florida, Texas where people have shops with experience doing complete aftermarket retrofits. Turbinator