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Turbinator

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Everything posted by Turbinator

  1. Here is a pic of a few center caps for 64 Turbines.
  2. Good intel said he paid for the car in cash. Tom, had been saving gold up until he needed a more expedient way to pay for large purchases. Turbinator
  3. Available late Jan -early Feb. PM me if interested. Tur binator
  4. TelRiv 3/16’s is correct. The vacuum line most suppliers have is an offshore manufacturer that makes in millimeters them tries to convert to inches. Stay away fri\om these suppliers. Google automotive vacuum line suppliers in inches. Gates in NOT an inches vacuum hose manufacturer. 60 Flat is 100% correct on Corbin clamps not working on the plane you want Corbin clamps. Matter of fact I’ve just rebuilt my engine trying to use Corbin clamps no luck. Changed all corbins out. Please remember vacuum line are different then fuel lines. So you are after “3/16” automotive vacuum line “ Try McMaster C
  5. When you positioned the switch on the mast did you notice screws can be tightened to hold in place? My screws were broken inside the mast. I removed the broken screws and replaced the screws. I still found the switch han to anchored in the right place. The best I could do was lash the switch in place with zip ties.( get ‘er done) the signals still work! Turbinator
  6. Every one is different and likes their car to ride, handle , and steer a certain way. I put an ADDCO SWAY bar on the front, rebuilt with all new bushings. Put on Bilstein shocks. Just bought 1 inch lowering springs fro Custom Coil specialties in Kansas. New lower hall joints. Did same for rear. Love the way it handles and rides. Taught
  7. Gents, I’m in hopes of encapsulating the shine and prevent oxidation of cast aluminum turbines. The polymer resin film protects the entire wheelcover back and front. Easy to keep by washing with soap and water. No wax needed.
  8. Camarillo Brillo is one of my Zappa favorites. Dental Floss, Dont Eat the Yellow Snow Frank was truly creative.
  9. One thing I would recommend for this car if you do not already have it. Thank you for tip. I ordered one today for my 63. I’m sure it will come in handy
  10. Tom is 100 % correct. Bernie Daly suggested I ground the bulb socket to the frame of the car. I did that by soldering a pigtail to the bulb socket. I checked my fuses and replaced the ones that did not test out. Took off the turn signal switch and cleaned all the contacts. Placed the switch back on the steering mast and moved it up and down with the cable wire attached until it engaged the left and right signals. Make sure when you attach your wires to the bulb socket you don’t get your wires crossed. The dual filament bulb 1157 won’t work right. Test the bulb before you mount the whole damn a
  11. 443 in the Carriage House
  12. Ed, as I remember two hoses do go to the vacuum #3 and vacuum actuator #4. One hose comes from vacuum control panel that has a white stripe that goes to #4. The second hose, for #3 gets starts at# 3 port and T’s in another vacuum hose. ( I’m going on memory and I could be mistaken)
  13. Tom, assuming you have ID’d the noise coming from the tank and trunk would it be overkill to place rubber strips between the tank straps and trunk? Thank you Turbinator
  14. I agree. JB weld is good. I keep trying other adhesives for metal. The POR 15 two part proxy is real good. The best I’ve experienced for fixing dings or road rash on turbines is lab metal. Lab metal can be buffed to a shine. It is a lot of work as I have 2-3 applications of LabMetal for hairline crack or dings. The LabMetal works and much less expensive thanTIG weld metal fill. BTW, LabMetal is not good at all for joining metal as it needs oxygen to cure. A good metal joiner is USC All Metal. I try a lot of adhesives for fixing broken decorative ornaments and whatever else I can’t fix but
  15. Chuck, I cannot remember if one hose from the modulator was larger than the other. Just can’t remember. Since I went with the STV upgrade(?) the modulator was no longer needed. The electronic switch serves to engage or disengage the clutch on the compressor to keep the evaporator from getting too cold and freezing the evaporator. Turbinator
  16. Tom, let me correct myself. You didn’t put me under stress it was the work! You rascal you can set the pace for anyone.
  17. Here is the vacuum hose diagram for 1963 Riv Ac. I found the diagram in a book entitled “ Buick Preliminary Setup”.
  18. Tall John, I’ve done some dash pads and sold them. My experience is you’ve got to take off the old dash cover. Sliding a new cover over top the existing makes the pad to thick to my liking. Just my opinion. I use DashTop from Reno. CARID carries the DashTop brand. Turbinator
  19. The first gen zRiviera dashes take a measurable amount of work to remove the old cover. Doable, but a little on the nasty side. Getting the foam base is another trick, then stretching the vinyl can be tedious. If it was easy I wouldn’t like it. Turbinator
  20. Paul, what is the diameter of these emblems? Thank you very. Measurement in mm or inches is just fine. Thank you in advance of your usual very fine cooperation. I’m guessing they are 70-71mm in diameter. I’m happy to be wrong. Turbinator
  21. Tom, I recovered my dash pad. I made mistakes and banged up the from edges. As usual I had another do -over. Tom T suggested I take out the chrome A pillars for me to remove and replace the dash. Yes, it is probably more labor to take out the A pillar covers but when working by yourself you have to make adjustments. The dash goes in and out real easy. I had no room for scuffs on my dash pad. Got lucky and used DashTop and refitted the DashTop cover. Then primed and painted the dash. It’s been 24-30 months and no fading, cracks, chip or peel on the pad. I had the paint matched and mixed at a pl
  22. Tom, you rebuilt your fuel pump? Bob
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