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    reside in Orlando,Fl...owned 65 RIV nearing completion after 20 yrs of restoration....orig.blue/wht int, now silv/ blk int....

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  1. Hey Ed! Is the '63 mirror close enough in appearance to the '65 that one would not notice any difference ?
  2. HEY ROCKIN! Are those '63 mirrors that your buddy installed on his '65s? I don't have my '65 in front of me to compare, but they appear to be identical in appearance to mine. Telriv says they are reversible but my '65 mirror definitely is not. If the earlier year mirrors are truly reversible I may add one to my '65. Although I hate to second guess one of history's greatest designers, I think the car looks much better with a passenger side mirror. (Aside from the fact that they are not fully functional) Drew
  3. Firestone P-225/75 R15s w 3/4" whitewalls look & drive like a dream. & they're relatively inexpensive. They do rub a little at full turn...I just don't go there
  4. I forgot to add I would also follow Seafoams advice about cleaning everything thoroughly prior to masking & painting.
  5. Removing the grille may be easy for some....on my Riv it is a huge PITA. Second time around I opted to leave it on & glad I did. Repainting the grille while still on the car is not what you would call easy. It requires some painstaking masking in an uncomfortable position, but if you throw down a blanket & a six pack & get into zen-like zone, you can do it. Step1: cover everything but the grille. I use an old sheet to cover the engine bay & fenders, & you can stuff excess sheet behind the grille to prevent overspray. (I leave that area open. On my silver car I find the proper silver color gives a washed out look w not enough contrast. My engine bay is all satin black & that is also the color I prefer on my grille, so overspray is not a prob. I also use satin black finish black on my rally wheels, clams,& rocker trim) Step2: Masking. Some recommend applying petroleum jelly to the chrome parts of the grille, paint, then wipe off the jelly to reveal the chrome. I have tried this & do not recommend it. It ended up a greasy mess. I have also experimented w pin-striping tape of a similar width with less than satisfactory results. The easiest technique Ive found is to use 3/4" to 1" blue tape.Tape the top horizontal rib 1st, taking care to follow the chrome line, then press the tape firmly to the outer surface of the rib. Next take a razor blade & using the rib itself as a straightedge slice off the strip you just attached. If done carefully this will a leave relatively straight edge for the next rib, and so on. Using this method, one length of tape will cover 3 or 4 ribs. Then mask the surrounding frame of the grille. Next comes the most painstaking part, which is masking the vertical ribs. (Now if you want a cool resto-mod look you can paint over these, leaving only the chrome horizontals. For years my verticals were blackened & the nerf bars under the bumper were removed, giving the Riv a very modern look. Later, when I decided to go back to normal, I just scraped the paint off.) I found the best way is to mass-produce short strips of tape of the exact length & then apply. You can even do half at a time & reuse the pieces. Step3: Paint. As for me, Krylon Satin Black is the go-to paint for a million purposes. There might be something better but I find you get an almost perfect finish every time w the Krylon. I prefer to use short, close, well aimed bursts, being careful to cover all 3 visible surfaces. If you over-apply the Krylon is very forgiving. I then follow up w a coat of Krylon clear for extra protection. For me the job took around 2 hrs. Results.....near perfection. Good luck
  6. Greetings Tony. On eBay you will find a set of stencils for painting the center sections( Goog 15" Buick Rally Wheel Stencils) however if you're good with masking tape & a razor blade you can do it yourself. It's painstaking work but do-able. The center sections came from the factory Argent Silver(someone correct me if that's not the correct name). This is the same color used between the ribs on the clamshells & rocker trim, & on the inner sections of the grille. As my Rivs body is also Silver, I prefer Krylon Black satin finish. This give more contrast & eliminates the washed out look I got from the Silver. I topped it off w a coat of satin clear for added protection. Google Buick Rally Wheel Images for pics of silver vs black & of the stencils. While you have the wheels off the car give some attention to the brake drums. They are often rusty which shows through the slots. I have painted my drums silver for contrast but if you choose silver for the wheels then black might look better. Also these wheels tend to hold moisture in a depression around the outer rim which causes surface rust to form, so make sure you dry them off after use. I wax mine occasionally which seems to slow the rust a bit. Usually a bit of steel wool will eliminate any that does form. Hope this is useful info, & good luck!
  7. Having said that, they can take my Riv when they pry my cold dead hands from the wheel
  8. I knew it was only a matter of time before this site went political. IMO, insulting & racist comments don't belong here and in my opinion should be edited out. I come here to talk about about Rivieras, probably the only thing some of us have in common, & don't give a damn about your political views. Thanks
  9. One of the worst regrets of my life, selling my gorgeous '73, but keeping it would have required buying a house w a bigger garage. Anyhoo I have a '73 rear bumper in very nice driver condition sittin out in my shed for 12 yrs now that should have a proper home. I can be had for a song (delivery could be pricey). Contact me if interested. Drew
  10. My '73 gave off a lot of heat but I never felt the fenders getting unusually warm. Hard to tell about the engine w no temp gauge, but you could be running hot from a faulty thermostat or fan clutch, or a clogged radiator. Just not hot enough to trip the idiot light or blow. However, when you do get the problem sorted out I have a very nice '73 rear bumper for sale....cheap! Rivnik
  11. Hackeration I would agree! But removing doorskins unnecessarily , especially ones that have never been off the car, is not a fun job, can be fraught with difficulties (like impossible to remove Tnuts & possible paint damage, or anything else that can go wrong),& should be avoided if possible. My widows were all sluggish, the driver's would almost come to a stop in one place. I even bought 2 replacement motors(which at the time were cheaper than the time & labor spent rebuilding one, (& no springs fly out, hit the ground,& disappear forever)). After fretting over the upcoming job I decided to try the WD "hack". Since then they have worked better than new.The passenger window practically flies up & down. And I guarantee there will be no rust forming in the doors and quarters. And after a short while not a hint of WD smell. BTW, I now have 2 motors for sale (at cost, w an added surcharge for Konga). As they say, sometimes the best things in life are free, or in this case the price of a couple cans of WD40. So there! )
  12. That is the best deal Ive seen on cathedral moldings(still, ouch!). You can't hold them of course, but the one pictured is quite nice, & CARS is a reputable supplier. It will probably cost more to have yours rechromed, & I know Ive seen used ones priced even higher.
  13. While on the subject there's another critique I have about the Grant wheel....the edges of the spokes are not finished off properly, creating a sharp edge which makes one finger steering uncomfortable. I remedied this w my Dremmel Tool, carefully grinding the edges nearest the rim to a fine radius. Huge improvement in minutes!
  14. looks like word got out that Grant stopped making the Riviera horn button.....there's a new Grant wheel w Riv button on eBay but asking twice as much as one w the tri-shield. Maybe you can contact seller & talk some sense into them. Listing is for" '63-'75 Buick Riviera steering wheel, horn button"