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Everything posted by JZRIV

  1. Everything has its time. Its normal for us to re-evaluate priorities as we age. I'm sure the decision was not made in haste as you have been around an awful long time with #603. Old vehicles can definitely become a bit of a pain to keep on the road. If I was not able to do all repair and maintenance, I would not have an old vehicle. You're not the first one to give up a Riv for a Vette. Seen it happen a handful of times over the years. Thanks for the update Mike and Happy Trails to you! I will guess there is probably an old black rusty Escalade hooked to the front of that U-haul trailer. 🤔
  2. So Jerry, did your car come equipped with a wide oval single white line tire or red. Nice Video and story. Here is the link to the youtube video
  3. Senior moment LOL - hit wrong button. I have 3 real nice lighters. All tested and work. I think 65-67 but not real sure. They came out of 66s. I'd prefer to sell all 3 at once. Looks like they go for $20-$25 ea on ebay. Asking $45 plus shipping for all 3 or best offer.
  4. Uncommon piece to find today. Has typical NOS shelf and handling scuffs but really nice overall original example. As you may know NOS does not mean perfect show chrome condition. I have detail pics if interested. Local pickup. I really don't want or have time to ship this. Trying here before ebay. Let me know if interested and we'll work out a price. ROA member will receive preference and discount.
  5. Note that there are silver balls that are one size and black/dark gray balls that are maybe .010 smaller diameter. As I recall I think they go in alternately. From memory I am pretty sure my 66 had 22 balls. I always said it takes a lot of balls to rebuild one of these. Not many people want to tackle it. Good work.
  6. The short skirts are not easily found but do show up occasionally for sale on ebay, swap meets, here, etc but be prepared to wait awhile to find a pair.
  7. Congratulations and welcome to the forum. Wow that car is loaded! Cruise control was not very common in 68 for some reason. As Tom mentioned the silver and black is a great color combo on that car.
  8. You are correct Tom, of course. For some reason I thought all 67 GS's got a wide oval in white or red. Probably an old piece of inaccurate info that stuck. The whitewall on GS was definitely the triple stripe 8.45. Never seen a 67 or 68 radial but would like to. If there is one out there it should be in a museum!
  9. I can't tell if its an H70. If its not then not correct. In 67 Didn't the H70 whitewall come standard with GS option? The redline was optional. I have seen original H70 redlines but can't say I recall ever seeing an H70 white line
  10. 9 times out of 10 too much movement in pedal on drum brake car is adjustment. Raise each wheel and adjust by hand by hand as Tom states. though less likely you could also have an issue where the shoes need arced "fit" to the contour of the drum. Back in the day this wasn't a concern but with all the crap chinese parts out there today it has become a little more common. I don't bother with aftermarket MCs on old cars anymore "especially if using the single reservoir MC. I send to a shop that specializes in brass sleeving and rebuilding. Nope ain't cheap but it will be right. Brake fluid is not compressible so assuming no air in system, no leaks and a functioning MC as soon as the piston in MC is moving forward (brake pedal pushed) its forcing fluid through the lines and will continue to do so until the shoes are pushed tight against the drum with no more travel. Too much travel before contact equals increases pedal travel
  11. I too have noticed cars and trucks from the 70s have been hot for the past 4 years and 80s are heating up while 50s are in the gutter and 60s are on a flat or downward trend. Generally speaking Hazdaz nailed the reason. Of course there will always be exceptions. The big auctions can be a good indicator for what's trending but these infrequent high spikes we see on a Riviera don't equate to reality of selling prices in general, even in a different comparable big name auction. There is a demographic of people that go to the big auctions that do it for entertainment. They have deep pockets and don't care if they pay too much and then sell it a year later for 10s of thousands less than what they paid. Winning the auction in a heated back and forth bidding war is more important. By far the large majority of Riviera's are sold outside the big auction venue where the prices fall inline to reality. One reason I prioritized selling my 66GS last year is because I could see the trend away from 60s cars and was afraid the longer I waited, the value would diminish beyond what was acceptable to me as I had a lot invested. I have not seen any indicators in the market that changed my mind in the past year its been gone.
  12. If you have the downtime time you can ship yours to https://shop.rareparts.com/ for rebuild. Or you may find a used supplier in US to send a core to Rare Parts for rebuild then return it to you. Rare Parts is trusted and has a great reputation. Basically you will have shipping cost if you send yours. Otherwise if you find one in US from a used supplier you could have them send it to Rare Parts then on to you maybe cost a bit more but less hassle for you. Rebuildable cores usually go for around $40 or $50US
  13. I just saw this. Congratulations on doing a wonderful job on the video Alex. Great story for a great car. It was a good production to have you do most of the talking.
  14. I've done this many times. I got real good at R&R'ing the dash. Not something I wanted to be good at though. 😬 I had it down to 15 or 20 minutes but as in your case persistence will pay off. Before putting speedo back together and instrument panel back in put an ohmmeter across the hair spring contact and make and break it 100 times at different speed setpoints. You want to see less than 1 ohm repeatedly. Otherwise risk intermittent operation. I am pretty sure I did an in depth tech article in the Riview on the 66/67 cruise systems a long time ago. The hair spring contact is the Achilles heel of the system. Very delicate to clean without damaging and sometimes the thin spring gets partially worn through. The Speed Alert option used same hair spring design. On working systems, when not using cruise always good to keep the set point above the speeds you travel to avoid unnecessary contacting of the hair spring. When these systems working properly they will consistently hold +/- 1mph. Very impressive for the time period.
  15. Are you a member of the AMCA? https://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/ Single best resource out there. Local chapters, many national meets, members can access free any original documents and manuals they have scanned in and the list grows every year. Indian 4s are special and not a lot of people have good knowledge of them especially when it comes to rebuilding the engine and knowing what is correct for each year as there were many changes so you need to be careful where you get your information from. Jerry Hatfield has a restoration guide but it starts at 1932. It covers a lot but its not detailed enough to do a full correct restoration though it is a good Indian resource to have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153862455252?hash=item23d2eabfd4:g:H5EAAOSwfF1eapZv Another possibility: https://indian4club.org/
  16. I have found using email to resolve issues with online purchases almost always ends up in frustration no matter who the vendor is. Forget the email. There is no substitute for picking up the phone and talking in person and always start the conversation politely. Trust me selling Buick parts is not a glamorous business. CARS was a pioneer in the business and began selling and reproducing parts when no one else was. I can tell you if CARS was not there when I got into Buicks I would have moved on from Buick because obtaining parts for project would have been more trouble than I wanted to deal with. I dealt with CARS for 35 years and issues were VERY rare but always resolved. Anyone that has had a Buick for any length of time and did any amount of restoration or refurbishment to it knows there WILL BE be challenges getting the right parts whether its used or new.
  17. Hmmmm. Saying a 73 is not a boattail is like saying the world is flat......whether it be from a scientific point of view or merely what has been widely accepted for decades. The boattail nickname is used loosely to begin with as the term refers to tapering of the rear on the stern of boat. This term even applies accurately to "boattail" type bullets used for reloading ammo. The rear of bullet is tapered slightly. Since the whole rear of the 71-73s are NOT tapered, we can speculate the term boattail may be in reference to the center section/hump of trunk that is tapered wide to narrow which the 73 maintained, though a little less pronounced. Just my personal opinion.
  18. Old vehicles will emit some fuel vapor smell after parking in a garage but it should subside in a couple days and completely after a couple weeks as the fuel evaporates out of the carb. The smell should not be so strong to go throughout the house. Is there an HVAC duct to the garage? Check for gaps or vents in ceiling or walls of garage for any other way air could easily transfer from the garage to the living space. Even when there is vapor smell in garage so little should transfer to living space that it would be noticeable especially at the level you indicate. I used to live in a small house with integral garage underneath and no special barriers and never had a problem upstairs with migrating fuel vapor. As others mentioned I almost always leave the car outside until it cools down. So I'd suspect there is a fuel or vent hose leak in car or there is consistent air exchange between the garage and the living space. Surely there is not a HVAC cold air return ducted into the garage but stranger things have happened. Was there a home inspection done when you acquired the home? Often that will pickup any deficient issues related to the garage/HVAC as there are strict codes governing that. It should not have taken several weeks for the smell to subside after removing car from garage. I expect in 1-2 days it would be gone. Especially in an older home that is not very air tight. I'm a uncertain why that would be. There isn't anything else stored in garage the smell could be coming from?
  19. In my experience the tendency for creep between high and low stall is minimal and has little effect on idle and certainly not enough to make it stall. I suspect a tuning problem. Ignition carb and/or vacuum. When did this problem start?
  20. I was going to say if you have a competent shop that is familiar with the Dynaflow, getting yours gone over and resealed would be the best route by far vs starting down modification road which could leave your car undriveable for a long time. Along with being first year, to me the Dynaflow is what gives a 63 Riv unique character.
  21. Thank ye kindly Tom. Had a member contact me looking for one.
  22. Several months ago or more there was a 66-67 rear bumper posted here for sale and it was pickup only no shipping I think in eastern PA. It was an early take-off. For the life of me I can't find that post in the search function. Does anyone recall it and/or who had it? Thanks
  23. Rockauto online - Airtex 40927 or Carter M4511. Or go to NAPA and ask for stock replacement pump
  24. DO NOT run the car if you have fuel in oil. Change fuel pump, change oil and replace oil filter. Hard to say about the starting issue as there can be many causes. First order of business is to get the fuel leak issue fixed.
  25. Tim, For now I'd apply some JB weld over the plug. Of course you'll want to scrub clean the area before applying.
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