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Everything posted by RIVNIK

  1. Recently installed an entire Waldrons exhaust in my '65. It's said to be an exact repro of the factory system. They offer different mufflers depending on what kind of sound you want. I chose the stock version but I believe it is a bit louder than original. Great service, nice people, long history, & good reputation. I did experience a fitment problem on one pipe which was ironed out with help from Waldrons. if interested you can PM me for details of my experience. Good luck! Drew
  2. Greetings,Mike. I recently had this problem also. Drivers side would release but not the passenger side. I contemplated removing the front pass. seat to get in there & push with my feet but on a hunch I got out a short wide prybar. You're kind of working blind, but remember the front of the seat has to go down & back, so stick the pryer up under there and search around for some purchase to push it rearward while pushing down at the same time. It would definitely help to know the configuration of the catch mechanisms. Maybe you can find a tutorial on Youtube, as most cars of the era use a similar method. Also remember the rear seats & center armrest are all bolted to a frame & come out as one assembly. The catch mechanisms are at the center of each seat. My problem turned out to be the combined thickness of sound deadening on the body & foil covered jute insulation behind the seat backs which prevented the seat bottom from going back far enough. I just had to compress it enough to release.You may have the same problem, as this is normally an easy operation. Before you reinstall the seat smear little grease on the catch wires. Good luck!
  3. I sprang for the Waldrons set. $$$ as Kreed mentioned, but 1st rate.
  4. Sorry to throw a monkey wrench into the conversation, but I never really needed a clock as I always wear a wristwatch. I recommend replacing it w an oil pressure gauge. Best "upgrade" I ever made. I get immensely more peace of mind from knowing my oil pressure than knowing the time. But I'm retired & have no place to be on time for. By the way, the clock is in a box in the shed for whichever one of you guys becomes the next owner (after you pry my cold dead hands from the wheel)
  5. that "0 replies" notification really bugs me so I'll answer myself. Sorry Drew, as smart & experienced as we are, none of us has the slightest idea about what to do about your wheel. You should have kept the wood one. So dig your thumbs into that annoying little slot & learn to live with it. & stop annoying us! Thanks, Everyone
  6. Any ideas on what to do about the missing decorative ring on my '65 steering wheel? It must be a common problem, but I haven't seen it addressed in any manner. Hoping for some brilliant suggestions. thanks, Drew
  7. Thanks Tom Ive never seen that 8track before. When was that first available?
  8. It would be no fun if it didn't have a few gremlins to eff with. What a great find! That car is a museum of under dash auto memorabilia! The 8track alone is a prize, & to capture that 60's feel you need to have tissues close at hand, of course. The Delco must be a reverb unit, but Im sure someone here knows for sure. anyhoo, congrats & welcome to the club. p.s. looks like there's still room for a triple gauge cluster under there
  9. To Tom T, I sent you a PM
  10. Thanks Ed. I will check Jon out. I occasionally read TelRiv posts but was not familiar w Jon. I don't want to rebuild it again myself, as I don't believe in sending in the same shmo to redo what he couldn't fix in the 1st place. I was considering a professional reconditioning since some of the moving parts feel a little sloppy, & Im missing that part which will probably not be included in a kit. As always, any advice is greatly appreciated
  11. Hey TelRiv! Are you there? Out of curiosity, what does your rebuild procedure entail? & what, aside from the obvious, are the advantages over a kit job. I kit-rebuilt my '65Carter a year or so ago & although the Riv runs better I sense it still has carb related problems. I lie awake at night wondering if there isn't a tiny spring, ball, o-ring, etcetera, lying where it rolled under something somewhere in the garage. Also, can you replace the thin metal plate which isolates the coil spring inside the choke body? That one did get away from me. I was able to fabricate a reasonable facsimile from sheet aluminum, but I wonder if that could be part of my problem. thanks, Drew
  12. Update: truly amazing chrome-like results, 1 mo. later looks like silver spray paint
  13. thanks Tom for the lightning response! My AC went So. many years ago. Later I took off the condenser, muffler & vac can to do some detailing & never replaced them. Since I'm a Floridian & a windows-down guy( & after reviewing the AC chapter in the shop manual) I decided I was fine w no AC. That's starting to get old. Now I'm pondering having an aftermarket system installed, but meantime I'm trying to make things look proper under the hood. It just seemed like a lot of weight to be sprung by those hoses, what w everything shaking like that. Thanks again. Drew
  14. Greetings! Q: Does the AC muffler hang in mid-air suspended by the AC lines, or am I missing something?(like a bracket). Thanks!
  15. Turbi is right! One of the best things I ever did was replace my clock w an oil pressure gauge. I quick disconnect my battery when not in use or when working on the car, so the clock was correct only twice a day, plus I always wear a wristwatch, so it wasn't missed. Its now in a box in the shed. After a little shopping I was able to find a gauge w a chrome ring & a font that matched the other instruments. Easy to install, fit perfectly in the clock-hole, hooked up the clock power to the gauge light, & no more oil pressure worries. & instead of hanging under the dash or cutting a hole in the console, it's right there in front of me for peace of mind. Idiot lights suck!
  16. Sorry I can't provide a link 'cause I saw it on my Apple TV, but on Youtube there's a great 8min time-lapse video rebuild of a 401, from lookin like it went down w the Titanic to brand spankin new. Worth a watch. Its a Hagerty Video," Redline Rebuild: Buick Nailhead V-8 Time-lapse"
  17. Must've taken some elbow grease to remove that surface rust. Look what it did to a brand new wire brush!
  18. Greetings Gordo, We welcome y'all to Fla w open arms! Not too many Rivieras around here, I guess thats why my auto-correct always insists on changing Rivs to Ribs. If you're near Orlando look me up. In fact till you get settled in I can put you up for awhile. That Trishield will easily cover a month or two's stay in my shed. You'll feel at home surrounded by used Rib parts. Drew
  19. Very funny Brian! Taking your NOS moldings out of the box & posing them as refurbished ones! I like it, but I'm being serious here. I kid, those rockers rock!
  20. Thanks T. sounds like a plan. I'll follow your 'structions in the a.m.
  21. Thanks for at least gettin me started guys. Had to take out some trunk cardboard to access the area, & found what you described, only on mine the threaded rear studs were also pushed in to retainers, making it quite easy to remove. Or would be, if the front end of said piece weren't held down by the quarter window trim molding, the removal of which requires taking out the rear seat to get to the interior side panels which must come out to access the screws holding it. This may require several days of contemplation. Thanks again!
  22. I am attempting to refurbish my ribbed rocker moldings. My plan is to try to polish the outer surfaces of the ribs with decreasing degrees of abrasive & then mask the ribs & spray the "valleys"w semigloss enamel. My question is: should all 3 surfaces of each rib be bare aluminum, & just the bottom of the valley painted, or should only the outermost rib surfaces be polished, & the entire valley painted?. The former would seem to be the way to go, since from a normal viewpoint the sides of the lower ribs on the door & below are actually what you're looking at, as the rocker plates are mounted at such an angle that the outer surface is aimed somewhat downward. Hope this makes sense,& thanks for any additional tips you might offer. Drew
  23. Greetings! I have a question regarding the small exterior spear shaped trim pieces at the base of the rear roof pillars(sail panels). They continue aft from the quarter window reveal molding. Not sure of the proper name, as they are not shown or mentioned in the body manual. Anyhoo, how do I remove the darned things?
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