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RivNut

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Everything posted by RivNut

  1. Now it's a matter of finding out who the manufacturer is.
  2. Thanks Dave. Hopefully @MKUltra can get his cluster up and running now.
  3. Find a u-pull-it. Pull one, if it doesn't work return it for an exchange. If you can't find a good one, get a refund. Normally they're about $30 a pop when you pull them yourself.
  4. I don't know if this will answer your question but the 63/64 trunk release is not tied into vacuum created by the engine. The vacuum canister in the glove box creates all of the vacuum needed to pop the trunk. As long as the seals in the canister and the hoses are not cracked, the remote should work. If you have the lungs, you can pop the trunk by sucking on the vacuum hose.
  5. Go to the Reatta forum and inquire who they recommend. The Reatta and Riviera are basically twins under the exterior skin. These guys are good and know who's best. You might do a search the forum as well.
  6. Unless the manufacturer does a bunch of flow testing, the only thing an aluminum manifold does is save you a couple of pounds. Get rid of weight some other way. I always have to laugh at the good ol boys on Street Outlaws. They've lightened everything on their car, but the guy who owns/drives it weighs 300 lbs.
  7. Mine on my 90 quit same story as yours. I lucked out and pulled a good one from a u-pull- it yard. Otherwise, I would have sent my old one to the guy on the Reatta site to have it fixed. To find that car in a u-pull-it, go to www.row52.com. Don't waste a bunch of time putting in the year, make and model are sufficient. (Years seem to confuse the site.) https://row52.com/
  8. You didn't happen to measure it before you installed it, did you?
  9. someone needs to go out to the local vintage salvage yard and scoop up all of the bezels that came on the 63/64 cars that did not have a clock in them. No little protrusion for the clock stem. Just a clean round bezel. IF I put the o/d trans in my '64, I'm going to put a shift indicator in that place. I need to see who makes these gauges for a 1969 Chevelle SS and see if they can make one for a Riviera. Same configuration as the Riviera, but includes a tach and all gauges, no "idiot" lights.
  10. You be thikin' 'bout Mr. Hanky?
  11. Best photo I've seen of Silver Arrow I that shows the two tone paint and chopped top. The two tone isn't as obvious on the sides of the roof but still it's a great picture. Thanks for posting.
  12. Dad's pretty mad at mom. She got me a Roadmaster convertible and he has to drive that Chevy sedan.
  13. I think that you'll soon be asking people to make one for them. You should re-post this in the tips section. Do you think that you could do the same for a 1st generation clock?
  14. I had an older Ford van that was my camping/canoeing vehicle. After a certain amount of time following an oil change but not yet time for an LOF, I'd get a ticking noise in one of the lifters. Because the old 302 would burn a quart of oil every 700 - 800 mile, I would add a quart of ATF to the oil. Run it until it cleaned the junk from the lifter then do an oil change. Don't know why but that one lifter would get dirty and the ATF would clean it out for a while. This was something that I'd learned from my dad from when he used to work at the local Buick garage.
  15. Don't know about west coast rain landslides, I just Googled "New Orleans hurricane" and this is one of the pictures that came up. It's pretty much representative of others that I found.
  16. I think you forgot to mention hurricanes.
  17. It sounds like someone has replaced the original door jamb switches. Pull one (or both) and post a picture of what you find. There are three separate circuits. Turning the headlight switch all the way left (?) will turn on the sail panel lights. The courtesy light switch above the radio turns on the light above the glove box door and the lights on the side of the console. The switch on the back of the console turns on the light on the back of the console. 12V runs directly to each bulb. The switch is on the ground side. That's the only way all lights will come on when the doors are opened AN
  18. If rotating the headlight switch doesn't turn them off then the problem is in the door jamb switches. Your door jamb switches each have three wires going to them . On of the wires to each door jamb switch controls the rear sail panel lights. It could be that one of those two wires is going to ground. Going to ground is what completes the circuit. Pull the switches from the door jamb and see if the sail panel lights go out. If they do, there's your problem. If your switch(es) is bad, Gord Wolfgang can repair them.
  19. This stuff is great. It's not noxious, it stays where you put it, and it's water soluable.
  20. From Carbking's website, there is a link for finding the correct gasket for carbs based on year, model, and engine and stamped numbers. If I'm reading it correctly, the 3924 is for a 65 425 w/ automatic trans. The 3645 is the rear carb for a 2x4 setup with manual transmission. At least that's the way that I read it.
  21. You have a 5 digit number for the one carb. No 5 digit AFB's. I have a source but need a good number.
  22. Perhaps the seat motor, when in operation, was causing static in the radio?🤪
  23. The hardest part of replacing a rear seal in place on a first generation Riviera will be removal of the oil pan.
  24. Use a red bulb as well. That way you're reflecting red light. New red LED bulbs would reflect a strong red light, especially through a red lens.
  25. If you media blast the mesh part, is there a way to protect the part of the piece that you want to remain chrome plated?
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