RivNut

Those orange stickers are Biohazard warnings. This one did not turn out well.

Further update: FYI When I was taking apart the transmission for my power seat, Bill ‘The Seat Guru’ Mawby told me to be aware of a small, thin washer that was on the shaft that connects to the motor. I knew that my transmission needed cleaning because I couldn’t turn that shaft with my fingers. It took some doing but I was able to get the shaft out of the case by tapping it out with a hammer. I contacted Bill and asked him about the nylon bushing on that shaft. “What bushing” was his reply so I sent him a picture of my shaft, the small washer and the nylon bushing. It turned out that the shaft had corroded itself to the bushing and in tapping the shaft out of the housing I dislodged the bushing from the case. So be aware that you might just pull the shaft and washer from the casing or, you might dislodge the bushing from the case. After a long soak in Evaporust, I was able to coax the bushing off the shaft (making sure to keep tack of the washer.) Knowing that if the bushing would still hang up on the shaft out in the open, it would hang up when I reassembled the transmission. I took the shaft, chucked it into my cordless drill, and spun it. While it was spinning, I took some Aluminum Oxide paper cleaning the shaft, removing the corrosion and polishing it. Now everything is copacetic and I can proceed with reassembly. Basically I’m saying “Be aware, a steel shaft can corrode itself to a nylon bushing.”

FYI. Power bench seats are 6 way seats, not 4 way.

Look at the FB number on your data plate. Buick limited the number od Rivieras sold in 1963 to 40,000 units (that’s exactly how many were built and sold.) Your FB number should be way below 40,000 if your car was built in October 1962.

Update: With some phone help from Bill Mawby, I was able to disassemble a seat transmission and use the cables to check the operation of the power seat functions. I’m happy to report that using my cordless drill on one end of a cable with the other end connected to the seat gears that I have fore and aft movement as well as up and down movement. Clean up some old hardened grease, regrease and assemble, and keep my fingers crossed that everything works when I get it in the car.

I’m adding a power seat to a car which did not have one to begin with. The car itself is about 6 hours from me. All I have here at home are the frame, a couple of motors and transmissions, and a couple of wiring harnesses that are attached to the seat frame; no switch or intermediate harness. All that stuff is with the car. Am I SOL until I can get with the car?

Bill, I’ve got everything ready to go except bench checking everything. The harness and switch are about 6 hours from me so I need to improvise. 1) I thought that I could try to raise/lower and move the seat forward and back to check movement but the cables from the transmission are secured to the transmission by a bracket that appears to be riveted to the transmission body. Is it possible to remove that bracket and release the cables from the transmission? I thought perhaps that I could connect a cable to my cordless drill and check the movements. 2) I can figure out how to check the motor, but how do I bench test the transmission? Thanks, Ed

On Jon Hardgrove’s website for his The Carburetor Shop, he shows both carburetor numbers and a different kit for each. This goes for early and late carbs for both the 400 and the 430. What are the chances that ordering a late kit for the early carb would bring it up to the later specs?

It may be too late now but usually it's easier to pull the parts trough from the back side rather than pushing them through from the front. Pulling stretches them and makes them narrower whereas pushing them compresses them and makes them fatter.

Here’s what I’ve found. First discussing the early and late 1968 8-430 carbs (7028240 -> 7028248). The only difference in these carbs is that Rochester made a modification to the float to improve fuel control; all calibrations are identical. Perhaps Jon at the Carburetor Shop could explain what the differences are and make a suggestion to bring the ..40 up to ..48 specs.

It is really difficult to get those book binding rivets to tighten up. If you tighten them to the point where they won’t come apart, you will have to make them so tight that they will interfere with the operation of the window. Use the tubular rivets and some brass bushings.

I soaked one power seat frame in molasses but during the soak all the rust came off but This piece was eaten and I had no threads for the cable attachment. When you did the Evaporust soak did it bother this piece. My seat frame is rusted in the down position and I have no access to one of the two bolts that secure this piece. I can soak everything if this piece will be safe. Your knowledge will be most appreciated. Did you also soak the relay? Thanks, Ed

7028240 from a 1968 Buick. Says it's rebuildable https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3612473942416323/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A565f8b11-b8f9-4785-8db2-8b981d0559b5

Has anyone disassemble the power seat frame for cleaning? I also need to insert a glide into the channel. I am not concerned with the motor, cables, or transmission, just the frame work. I need to clean the surface rust off EVERYTHING so it operates flawlessly. Thanks, Ed

If the rivets are removed, you can fit a 65/66 drum on a 63/64 hub. Center holes on 45 fin drums have the same diameter. 63/64 drums fit hub centric on the hub. 65/66 drums are centered with the wheel studs.

I think that if you use a nut and bolt approach, you’ll find that you’ll have clearance problems. Probably better to replace with a new rivet and bushing. Look for an appropriate sized tubular rivet. Tubular rivets do not require heat or a press.

Even though the hubs are smaller starting in 1965, the hole in the actual drum is the sane size as the earlier drum.

With so few built and they were custom built by the manufacturer and the convertible were assigned a body style different than the coupes there’s probably a good chance the company whose site you’re using is not aware of these specially built convertibles. The convertibles had serial numbers starting with 1G4AZ67 rather than 1G4AZ57

https://www.rivieraconvertibles.com I go along with the idea that seats were mixed up at ASC. Don’t worry about it. 99% of us don’t have a build sheet to complain about. I copied and pasted this from the linked website. Note what happens at station 1. …the front seats ….. are removed… “The Conversion Begins.... The car, complete except for backseat and headliner, rolls to Station 1. Here, the front seats and remaining trunk and interior trim pieces are removed and the car body is covered for protection. Almost immediately, the top of the car is removed. Using three separate tools, an air shear, air chisel and reciprocating saw, two workers actually cut off the top of each Riviera”

It depends on how quickly you can do it. The clock is mechanical an is wound with an ultra quick shot of 12 volts to wind the main spring. If you can get the wire off, covered, and back on quickly, you shouldn’t have to reset the clock.

Have you contacted @Peter Gariepy about this? As the administrator, he might know something.

If you’re rebuilding a core, chances a rebuild kit will have ethanol proof gaskets.

What shifter are you using to control 4 forward speeds? Looks like something stock. Nice!!!

First of all, WE HAVE REFERRED TO BOTH THE CHASSIS AND BODY MANUALS so that’s covered. New rubber seals, et al but the rear 1/4 glass and the door glass overlap, more at the top than at the bottom. The 1/4 glass fits against the body well as long as it’s not rolled up completely. Rolling it up seems to push it forward at the top. The door glass looks as if it needs to have the top rotated to the front. The vent frame fits the A pillar perfectly. A number of years ago, some guy at a restoration shop took the 1/4 windows and channels out. We finally got those back in and the glass in the tracks - after a few cuts, scraped knuckles, and lots of F bombs. Anyone have any clues as to what we can do now to try and get the 1/4 window glass and door glass to line up? The manuals cover “fore and aft” (thought I was on a boat for a while) and “in and out”. Until the two pieces of side glass are rolled all the way up, they look fine. With the doors open, everything looks fine. Any and all suggestions will certainly be appreciated. Ed

That PNDLR is the same pattern as the original Chevrolet Powerglide. Maybe a supplier of early Chevy parts might have something.