rodneybeauchamp

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About rodneybeauchamp

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/09/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Encounter Bay, South Australia
  • Interests:
    1963 Buick Riviera, 1938 Series 40 Special coupe, model railway, tinkering, improving things, swap meets, living life.

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  1. Couldn’t resist. This is a “cars on the coast” event held at Port Noarlunga, a southern seaside suburb with a nice bakery and parking. Was just coming from our local “coffee and cars”@ Victor Harbor, on the way to the airport. The photographer snapped the photo as I drove in, pretty late in the morning. Only Riviera there, and only Buick too!
  2. Well, problem solved. Turn signals working as they should, one side at a time. Park lights working too, independent of turn signal. Many thanks to all and sundry for help and advice. And with the parcel arriving today with a replacement ammeter, oil and gas caps and wiring clips it felt like Christmas 😀😀 happy Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  3. Well, problem solved. Simple replacement of the LEDs with a pair from SuperBright results in the turn signals working as they should, flashing one side only at one time. Park lamps also working as they should. Many thanks for all the help and suggestions. happy Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  4. Hi Creamcoloured63 and welcome to the forum. The clock is possibly repairable and there are a couple of good articles here and on the net that describe the process! Mine is now working thanks to the help from these. I have also replaced the radiator core ( which is no big deal) however I think you might be meaning the heater core, which is fun. If you have replaced one, you get a medal and go into the Riviera Hall of Fame. 😀😀😀😀 Seriously the heater core is a long job. But like eating an elephant, just tackle it bit by bit by bit. The ROA site has some great procedures, just take lots of pics along the way. And the Harrison heater cores used as original equipment are well made and I was able to have mine repaired rather than rely on an after market core made who knows where. With some TLC, your grandpas Riv should come up to scratch, inside looks magic. Just keep doing “one thing everyday” cheers Rodney “down under” 😀😀😀😀😀😀
  5. Thanks Matt, email sent to Cars. BTW have led globes ordered from SuperBright LEDs, hopefully solve the problem. Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀
  6. As an aside, are the original ‘38 Buick parking lamp lenses glass or a type of plastic? If originals are glass, does anyone have a pair for sale? Driver quality is all that is required? Don’t mind buying the complete lamp if necessary. Thanks Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀
  7. I couldn’t have drawn it so good. Yes, you are spot on, because the park side of the leds are joined, both will flash.im just waiting on a reply from the supplier, and refund too I hope. I will then go back to SuperBright LEDs as I have had good success with my Riviera replacements. I couldn’t find the 6V ones until Matt gave me the information. Otherwise I would have ordered from them Rodney 😢😢😢😢😢😢
  8. Kongaman Your right, I was doing a lot of unnecessary work. You may wish to check my response in the technical forum where I tested them in a made up circuit out side the car. Same result! Im half tempted to put two diodes in the circuit at the park light power wire, thinking that this will allow current to flow one way in to the bulb but not back out of it. Have also contacted the supplier/ manufacturer and see what they come up with. Their bulbs are specified for brake, turn signal and park, so they should work same as incandescent bulbs. Again will keep you posted, cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀
  9. Ok, problem tracked. I think that the LEDs park and turn circuits are wired together so that the park set of LEDs light, then when the turn signal is used more LEDs in the same circuit light. I set up a test circuit away from the car with two bulb holders. Both park lamp power wires joined together ( as per the Buick wiring) and both ground wires together ( as it would be grounded to body and chassis). Touch the RHS flasher wire to +ve and the RHS bulb is bright (turn light) and the LHS is dull ( park light), touch LHS flasher to +ve and LHS bulb is bright and RHS bulb is dull ( park light) To work properly in any car or on test, park and turn signal need to have seperate circuits. Pity because these LEDs are super bright and run cool. Problem diagnosed, yet to be solved 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔 Rodney
  10. Hi, I will try that. At the moment I am rechecking my globe sockets to make sure there are no stray wires that could create a circuit. I have just redone the RH one and checked for continuity and resistance. What I did test was that the LED lights up correctly on the park and turn circuits in the globe holder while it was out of the vehicle circuit. Will check again when installed. I have also removed all globes from the front and rear turn lamps as well as the stop and tail lamps. When wired back in I will test one by one to see if there is a stray feed anywhere. thanks for your help, will keep you posted. 😀😀😀😀
  11. Thanks for all your suggestions. The flasher does not seem to be the problem as the flash rate is acceptable, the bulb/LED combination drawing enough load to make it work. It is an electronic style so it is designed for variable loads. All the wiring to the new sockets is all new that I have made, with soldered connections, 5mm wire and seperate ground wires to each socket that terminate on a body bolt. So hoping that wiring is not the issue. The rear lamps have the same new wiring again with grounds from socket to body bolts. However, what I will do is recheck what I have done to eliminate wiring and ground issues. My other thought is to install diodes in the ground return wires, and perhaps in the park lamp power feeds. Will get back. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
  12. So, I thought all my problems were solved with my turn signal lamps on my ‘38 by using LED park/turn signal globes up front and standard globes at the rear in a seperate lamp. (Not though the brake lamps ) These are 6volt double contact LEDs and work fine when tested on the battery. What happens when they switch on either left or right is that both front turn signals flash along with the rear of that side. It seems that the power is feeding back via the common earth and powering the other globe. My test light shows this too! Currently the only way I can get it to work as it should is when I disconnect the park light side of the wiring on one or both lamps. When fitted with standard incandescent bulbs they work fine except they generate too much heat for my liking. Flash rate is fine with a 6V Tridon Electronic flasher ( not an LED type) with either bulb combination. I have yet to wire up the headlamp switch as yet, hoping that I could get these turn signals tested first. Any thoughts how I can get this working as it should?
  13. Thanks Kongaman, i have been able to get it to function properly on the flasher side by doing any the following, -removing the other side globe -cutting the wire that feeds the park light on both sides -removing the earth on the opposite side what seems strange is that when the flasher is on the park light circuit on that side has power enough to light my test light. Put it all back together with incandescent globes and it works as it should. Perhaps the LEDs I bought don’t have a diode feature to prevent back feed. Anyway see see what answers we get on the forum. cheers Rodney 😀😀😀😀
  14. So, I thought all my problems were solved with my turn signal lamps on my ‘38 by using LED park/turn signal globes up front and standard globes at the rear in a seperate lamp. (Not though the brake lamps ) These are 6volt double contact LEDs and work fine when tested on the battery. What happens when they switch on either left or right is that both front turn signals flash along with the rear of that side. It seems that the power is feeding back via the common earth and powering the other globe. My test light shows this too! Currently the only way I can get it to work as it should is when I disconnect the park light side of the wiring on one or both lamps. When fitted with standard incandescent bulbs they work fine except they generate too much heat for my liking. Flash rate is fine with a 6V Tridon Electronic flasher ( not an LED type) with either bulb combination. I have yet to wire up the headlamp switch as yet, hoping that I could get these turn signals tested first. Any thoughts how I can get this working as it should?
  15. One thing I appreciate on a vehicle is turn signal lamps that look appropriate to the period. A previous owner had fitted motor cycle signal lamps with orange lenses. Sure he had gone to a lot of trouble to make up some nice brackets that were chromed, but to me, they still looked what they were, motor cycle lamps. And the orange really stood out like a sore thumb against the black duco. I wanted to use the existing fender lamps and found that the Narva #49836 globe socket was a snug fit into the ‘38 front fender park light lens. With a twin filament globe fitted it worked really well, however as the lens was not glass but a heavy plastic material my concern was that the heat would discolour and possibly melt the lens. I wanted to have the park lights on full time at night too, so same issue. So I chose these 6V LEDs which run nice and cool and give out plenty of light on both park and turn when lit. So much so, I’m thinking of using them as a daytime running lamp. Price shown is for four bulbs with free postage! Anyway, pictures tell more! I did not end up using the spring as it was not necessary.