Jump to content

jframe

Members
  • Content Count

    690
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

224 Excellent

1 Follower

About jframe

  • Rank
    100+ Posts
  • Birthday 01/12/1970

Recent Profile Visitors

2,056 profile views
  1. Looks like he did. His threads seem to be gone, although the responses remain. Just as well.
  2. Well, it sure wasn't for hooking grocery bags, because plastic sacks were but a dream in the Sixties.
  3. Mine has the regular 1181. If I ever had to replace it, I'd use the 1181LS. No plate or shims to install. Personally to me, that DUI unit, along with all GM distributors that style, look hideous. May work great, but just don't think they look good sitting in the engine bay.
  4. My last adventure with my 65 was similar, except mine was lighting the gen light because it WOULDN'T charge. I replaced it with a NAPA regulator, the old style. like what was on it. Still had the gen light on at start up. Checked the new regulator with the voltmeter, and it was putting out 185 volts, just like Winston's. Shut the car down and bought an electronic one from AutoZone, and no more issues. Thing is, my gen light was coming on with the overcharge condition as well as when it was not charging at all and running off battery voltage.
  5. I have the old style that had the plate that you had to put in. Bought the car 5 years ago, and it was in there then. No issues whatsoever, other than the hot wire came off the coil this past November and grounded itself out, but that had nothing to do with the performance of the Pertronix. I believe in them.
  6. I second what Jason said. I have a 65 I just replaced the hose from pump to carb, and it was 5/16 all the way. 3/8 from tank to pump.
  7. As an aside, and I hope, FINAL question on this, how do you get the bulb out of the holder that surrounds the ignition switch and lights the key faintly? I still gotta tape up the wires and get the switch back in the dash, and that bulb appears WELDED in, lol.
  8. Yep, will prolly do that. Only difference in the two are the rivets and the old one marked Delco Remy.
  9. Jim, you were spot on, apparently. Put the new Napa standard regulator on and amp light was on, but the voltmeter was showing 17-18 volts. Too much. Took it back off, put original on and back to square one showing 12.25 at alternator. Researched what you told me about electronic regulators and found my local Autozone carried one part number VR715. 51 bucks, and the cover IS riveted, but it's tall like the original, just no markings. Installed it and voila no light. 14.5 volts or so at alternator, 14.2 at battery and horn relay and thats with full load of bright lights. Did read on a Camaro for
  10. It's a standard replacement. Car acts like the belts aren't tight enough, but they appear to be as snug as they were before the alternator swap, at least to me. Jim, I may try your suggestion as well. Still got to get under this thing and replace that battery cable from the horn relay to starter.
  11. Swapped to a new alternator today, and now the amp light is on at idle, but goes out when I rev it up. Put on a new Napa voltage reg at the same time. I am tending to think like XframeFX; an ipgraded internal regulator alternator may be in the future. One thing I DID notice is that I cant get the two wire connector to click into place on the alternator, so I ordered a new pigtail for it today. That may also be a source of trouble.
×
×
  • Create New...