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About XframeFX

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  • Birthday 12/15/1956

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    Edmonton, Canada
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    Learning anything new!

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  1. It appears you're on top of the situation. Hopefully you'll find the problem licked after bleeding the circuit. One thing to note on power brake setups back in the '60s. They dropped the brake pedal down to the level of the accelerator pedal, There is very little travel because the push-rod is near the fulcrum. Manual brakes has the pushrod further from the fulcrum for more leverage/travel, a higher pedal. The power assist system relies heavily on the vacuum booster. Without vacuum, the pedal will be very hard with hardly any travel. Power front disc brakes of the '70s was similar, a dropped pedal with little travel. The valve in the vacuum booster, you mean the check-valve? Easy to test. John B.
  2. "Small Progress is better than No progress". Stick with it! Didn't know I had OCD until I re-started my Riviera project. If I was hired-out to do this (Riviera project), I'd fire me. Restoration or, resto-mod or aftermarket? Which-ever is faster! Enough research, get-to-work! Procrastination helped with my last cataract replacement lense. I procrastinated 12 years to get the 2nd eye done. By then they not only had the base model but 2 more upgrades! I splurged for the middle model and now have 'mono-vision'. one eye for reading and the other near 20-20 for distance! John B.
  3. Nothing's easy with this swap. Removed a LeSabre 340 cu. in. at the wreckers to get at a 13" switch-pitch torque converter and front pump from the BOP ST-400. Easy enough. Then found an Olds Jetaway with a seized 330. Made 3 trips to the self-serve wrecker in sub-zero temps to get it out, no torches allowed. Cost $25. I then took that 12" torque converter to a shop where they had a 12" ready-to-go! Received $75 core exchange after all that hard work! The 12" is also 25 lbs lighter - better throttle response! The Russ Martin Flexplate is dual pattern. Should be a big improvement over that 'Dynaslow'. One more detail. I wonder how the bead chain for the Electro-Cruise hooks-up on '65 Rivieras with that micro-switch in-the-way? Nice to know OEM setup before I improvise. However, too early for that. Still dealing with 2 bad '65 shifters. I snapped the push-rod on the seized unit, all junk.
  4. Correct on smaller powertrains and also for the 2-speed ST-300. I'm assuming the car would launch in high pitch, switch to low pitch and stay there until approaching WOT where I think the kick-down setpoint is above that. RivVrgn PM'd excellent images to me of the linkage area of his '65 nailhead. I got it now. I simply did not have a '65 shop manual for reference. So no micro-switch on the dashpot but there is one at the back of the linkage. I'll go back to the wrecker here and remove one from a LeSabre 300 cu in just in-case I need it down the road. Not sure how that figures in the setup. I will have all parts shortly Enough details. On with the swap!
  5. I found this thread (Nov 2017) where Bluesy66 has a '65 ST-400 in a '64 Riviera and questioning linkage arrangements. At least the '64 has the combination kickdown/switch-pitch with a harness for just the kickdown contacts. He is halfway there with the '64 setup. I'm replacing a Dynaflow with mechanical switch-pitch. Not so lucky. However, his image is for a '64 nailhead. Still looking for the same image for a '65 nailhead and wire harness schematic. If what you're saying Ed, it appears the '65 does have a dashpot with the micro-switch. So based on my assumption that the '64 ST-300 is the same, I'll start a search for a dashpot (have the switch) and build a wire harness according to my '64 manual in the ST-300 section. I modified a crimper for packard-56 connectors so it should look OEM. Only wish I had that stubborn bootie Joey (RivVrgn above) had to deal with!
  6. Thanks Ed. But, of my 2 shop manuals (1963 & 1964), my '64 manual shows the Switch-Pitch setup for the ST-300 which also had the 2 internal transmission solenoids. The same wiring for the 1965 ST-400? Also, Carburetor primary shaft linkage on the nailhead, the same components and setup as on the Buick 300 (again, '64 manual)? Under hood online images of 1965 Rivieras have the linkage area blocked by the air cleaner. The 1st image is of a 1964 300 cu in w/AFB and has the kickdown switch removed with no evidence of a dashpot/microswitch. Same setup on 1965 Rivieras? The 2nd image is not an AFB but shows all components on the linkage to the Rochester 2BBL. John B.
  7. On this topic but on the other end of the wire harness, can someone post a snipit from a '65 manual showing the variable pitch / kickdown switch and dashpot arrangement? My '63 shop manual is to old and my '64 manual shows it for the ST300. Same? Also wire diagram/schematic for this wire harness? Thanks, John B.
  8. Gord, try Steel Rubber. They have sets or lengths, chrome bead or none. After spending too much time changing the outers and requiring more strips, I left the inner strips as is. John B.
  9. No mention here on what year 1st Generation Riviera. Original inner "whisker strips" are the same for all 3 years. However these were also on the outer as is the case with my '63. I thought original outer strips on the '65 were the "rubber wiper" similar to other GM's of that year. Correct? 1964 Riviera outer strips? I recall changing the Outer Strips without having to remove the door skins on my '63 because for that year it is attached to the stainless moulding with staples. Bernie's comment on quality, I agree and thought my expectations were too high. Or, having flakey fit and function part of hardtop evolution? Shouldn't that whisker strip contact the glass when fully raised and continue that contact as the glass is lowered to the full down (cruising) position? Adjusting the glass would be a lot of trial and error with the door skin off and on multiple times. Steele Rubber mentions felt strips for the inner panel only. GM was in transition with it's hardtops during production of the 1st Gen. Rivieras. The '63 Riviera was the 1st pillar-less hardtop with frame-less glass that was flat. 1964 saw the new A-Body hardtops with frame-less curved glass. 1965 this same feature was applied on full-sized hardtops, all with rubber wipers. So I thought '65 Riviera's were updated with the same rubber wiper mounted directly on the door skin without the moulding. John B.
  10. Ray, go for Tom's set-up! You will also need the Drive-Shaft and Pinion Flange. Will work nicely with the 3.23:1 in your Riviera. And oh, my pinion flange needs restoration too. The 4 threads are rusted-out! Switch-pitch torque converters are difficult to find today. I found mine the hard way. Tom, a '65 GS? Must be rusty.
  11. Thanks Dave and Tom for helping me with the planning stage. So many parts to fix before I can even begin with the Dynaflow - ST-400 swap and don't ask what these parts costed me thus far! I thought that ST-400 in my possession since the mid 80's was the bulk of the cost. It too needs re-building. If I had to braze-on a switch-pitch bell-crank, I'd have to remove the AFB Primary shaft (residual fuel). If I did that, might as well swap into my '63 AFB. Or better yet a new Edelbrock Performer Carb (inter-changeable?) On a new Performer Carb, 750 CFM on a 401 with original intake correct size? "Porting", you mean a dual plane conversion? If so, a larger Carb? Not keen on the latter as this is project is becoming bigger than a house. Keeping with an original AFB top on a new Carb will allow use of the original Air Cleaner. It is also a better casting for what its worth. Yes, that plastic adapter ring, but hood clearance is tight. In keeping modifications to a minimum, a 1966 Nailhead Spreadbore intake with a matching switch-pitch Rochester QJ would be nice. Won't be able to use the Riviera Air Cleaner though. 20 MPG back-in-the-day with such a set-up. Last weekend I bought a seized '65 shifter and this weekend I am combining it with another and fitting it inside the original '63 console. I found raising it 5/8" will allow for the longer throw within the Dynaflow console top. Spending way too much time on it. It won't un-seize and the other is missing the chrome push button. Somehow I have to pull off that chrome push button without damaging it! 1963 push buttons appear to be silver soldered-on. Ray, I was on the OD path when I swapped one of my Chev TH-400's for a TH-700-R4 in the '90s. I think the other Guy got a better deal. Procrastination was good in that I learned over the years from other 700-R4 swaps that it wasn't worth the effort. Sure there are other OD transmissions being better. A clean swap would be that Nailhead bellhousing for the 4L60E (no kinked speedo cable too!) Ask around how people liked the drivability of that swap. Still, has wide gear ratios like the 700-R4. On the ST-400, consider this, a smaller 12" switch-pitch torque converter may make my 3.23:1 final drive feel like it had a 3.49:1 on acceleration. So with that thought, spending $$$ to change to a shallower ratio will give you lower cruising RPMs while still giving performance when the switch-pitch is in high. Careful not to go too shallow of a ratio, the Riviera is heavier than the Skylark where the 12" unit came from. A high differential RPM at cruising speeds will defeat economy. 1965-66 Rivieras had 13" VP Torque Converters.
  12. Art, the last 2 pages of Section 10. Your fuse block is consistent with my '64 Canadian Buick Manual for 4400 to 4800 Full Size Buicks on page 156. 1963 Buick Manual has it all crammed in to 1 page. The early '63 Riviera's had a separate harness for the power antenna like the Electro-Cruise and power windows. It was a 12 circuit fuse block limitation until the 17 circuit fuse block common with your '64 was used. Both '63 fuse blocks used the 'clock' slot. as mentioned earlier, GM had some reason for your arrangement. Continuity between the 2 circuits is 1 thing, voltage is another. perhaps the 2 Red wires melted in the harness as no GXL or SXL automotive wire existed back then. Test by removing the Courtesy & Clock fuse and test for 12V at the clock or simply if the Clock keeps going on the power antenna circuit.
  13. Art, so do you have 12V to the Clock? As for the wiring, the '64 Shop Manual shows no fuse for the 'fuse' slot but the 2nd from the top is labeled 'Courtesy & Clock'. It has the double Red crimping on the fuse clip. Not very good protection if you ask me going from 2A to 5A. The power antenna has a single Red termination on that fuse clip. No Clock on it. Note that one side of the fuse block is 12V live (Red feed) and the middle and opposite side are 12V switched (Brown feed). Also, those fuse clips are rusty on practically all old GMs even from dry climates. So removing and re-installing a fuse in a suspect circuit might make for a better contact. Using 'NO-OX-ID' for all fuse clips even better. I see you still have the odometer reset knob!
  14. Thanks TelRiv, using just the primary throttle shaft from that 300 V8 LeSabre AFB was my intention. I was hesitant when the wrecking yard was firm on $100 (just for the shaft!) But, I was also thinking about a new Edelbrock Performer 1411 750 cfm with not only the old AFB top on it but also that Primary shaft. It's been a while, I think I have to grind the tip of those screws with a dye grinder. Okay to re-use those screws with thread locker? Would that AFB (4331S) primary shaft with the desired bell-crank fit in a new carb? 750 cfm a good match? Could anyone scan a page from the '65 shop manual showing the throttle linkage on our nailheads with that kickdown/variable switch? I have only 1963 & '64 Manuals. Ray, TH-400s are not plentiful if you want the integral nailhead bell housing. Also, as mentioned here, there's simply not much room within the confines of the X-FrameFX (my handle LOL), ie: kinked speedo cable Thanks All, John B.
  15. Dave, I've had TH-400s in previous projects, all good and is the reason for going this route to rid myself of that Dynaflow. Yes, no 4th gear but, a daily driver it is not. So, I've convinced myself the Variable Pitch feature is just as desirable as that OD. Also, the conversion will be OE quality. No messing with multiple adapters, TV cables and an altered drive-shaft. I have all parts but being core quality practically every part requires restoration before I can begin with the conversion. I just purchased a 2nd '65 Shifter to combine into 1 good shifter. I have an incorrect AFB from a 300 cu in '64 LeSabre but has the correct bell crank on the primary shaft. And so it goes. On the TH-700-R4, I've seen conversions on non Rivieras with Owners not completely happy with the results regardless of what final drive is used. Less than a 3.00 : 1 since it is such a wide ratio transmission. Too much of a jump between gears for the nailhead. John B.