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XframeFX

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  • Birthday 12/15/1956

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  1. I've seen some without a tilt wheel but find it hard to believe a Driver's outside rearview mirror being dealer installed as that would be the 1st factory option before all the rest. Also, quite a job to install along with the remote joystick (wouldn't trust a Dealer to get it right). I have the spare tire on the trunk floor. Mounting the right side mirror next to the door glass to match the left side, not now with what is confirmed here. TX! Mercedes Benz 190E had a significantly larger mirror on the right side, not matching the left at all.
  2. Jim, I had a similar observation. Thanks for bringing the broader picture to us. My '63 Riv has the Driver's Mirror further back. Making both sides to match the same location makes no sense. When doing my veneer, I drilled 3 pin holes to locate the 2 screws and hole saw in the center for the joy stick control. After finishing the veneer, only I can find those pin holes. However, I think I'll pass on a RS mirror too, have other priorities.
  3. Hello Rod, you have a beautiful Riviera and an excellent 1st post here! I temporarily installed a speedo with the "Speed Minder" in my '63 while I fix the Unit with that awful "Transducer". It is on the back-burner for now. So, glad to learn more from your dealings on the '67 unit. Achilles Heel that spring certainly is! Buick chose to not use the Perfect Circle unit that other GM divisions did. That one measured pulses and sent a Pulse Width (PWM) signal to the vacuum actuator. Buick's "Electro Cruise" measures the position of the indicator and attempts to create a PWM signal with the oscillating spring. Measuring the position of the needle ('63 Speedo) is not ideal but having an electronic system except for that flakey spring, should've named it "Mechano Cruise". The Spring in my unit is so far out-of-wack (damaged?) that I'm working with a 'real transducer' while maintaining measuring of indicator position, the original design. If successful, it will be 100% electro/pneumatic. I've tried several PWM controllers but a heated seat controller appears to work best. My attempt might be a long shot but, I'm a sucker for doing things the hard way!
  4. Holy Cow, if it's too good to be true . . . . . The rear control arm bushings have been beat-to-death in postings. We finally have quality replacements that James has in stock. I checked that link and a give away is that their offering fits Skylarks, full size Buicks, Rivieras and 8 pieces versus the required 6: This Kit is constructed using High-Quality OEM spec replacements for 1964-1970 Buick Vehicles. Vehicle Fitment: 1964-1970 Buick Lesabre, 1964-1970 Buick Wildcat, 1964-1970 Buick Electra, 1964-1970 Buick Riviera, 1964-1970 Buick Special, 1964-1970 Buick Skylark These parts are Factory Design and will only work with Stock Vehicles. This Kit Contains All Of The Pieces Below: Upper Rear End Control Arm Bushings (4 Each) Lower Rear End Control Arm Bushings (4 Each)
  5. With any website that has a "Canned Contact Us" app, I right click and copy before hitting 'send'. Many times it appears to be a placebo app and my dialogue disappears with an error. 5 years back, I have had only 1 minor back-ordered part that never showed from C.A.R.S. Slipped thru-the-cracks? Otherwise, parts from them was satisfactory. For parts sources, the back of ROA's Riview.
  6. Ray, Thanks for the details on your 4L60E install. Good that the swap is still fresh in your head! Thanks Tom on confirming bolt size. In hindsight, I now think the Pinion Flange is from a 1964 Electra. It has 3/8"-14 threads for sure. The drive shaft from that 1964 Riv has 7/16" holes. Regardless whether the Riviera had different bolt sizes or not, I'll have to punch them out to 7/16"-14 for fresh threads. Will use grade-8 socket head bolts which should eliminate a weak link. I have those Australian bushings for the rear including track-bar and plan to change the steering box. Considering George's Bilstein shocks as well. I have come a long way with this project and still have much more to do. At this point, I wish I could turn it over to a 'crew' and just-get-it-done!
  7. Thanks Ray & Ed My Pinion Flange and Drive-shaft is from a 1964 Riviera Super Wildcat and is intended for my Dynaflow-to-ST400 conversion. I believe the pinion flange is a direct swap for my 1963 pinion yoke. Something like 30 splines. The 1/2" thick pinion flange has worn-out 3/8"-16 holes but is otherwise OK. Again, fitting 7/16"-14 bolts should be the best fix. The 1964 Drive-shaft I plan to use has a swack of balance weights on both shafts. I will have to drill new holes into the X-Frame for the ST400 X-Member. Yet to copy/determine where they should be. Perhaps the transmission output shafts are at different heights between 1963 & 64, the reason why center support bearing has a difference of 1.25"? Dennis's Riv would've had new X-member holes drilled by a previous Owner. Too much thought here I know. Using OE parts from 1964/65 should minimize surprises when I'm into the swap. But, the Dynaflow isn't as bad as I remember back in the 80s! Thanks for responding.
  8. Source for 1964 - up Center Support housing. Made-In-USA? https://www.powertrainindustries.com/story/3R80-10?catalog_table=dsp_center_bearings
  9. Tim, with the engine idling and the air cleaner off, look down the primary throats. If the float seats are leaking, you may see dripping from over-flow. Except for the pump (will do that too), I went thru the entire fuel system. From a flushed fuel tank (with a soldered-on tag) to a rebuilt AFB carburetor using FI hoses and clamps. All good now. Yes, I wish my Dad did the same. Keep it!
  10. I didn't try a search on this because no accurate description. I agree describing it as a vacuum valve. Details on a replacement? Thank-You.
  11. An FYI alternative to the Pin. I used a bolt with a shank, washers and a "well-nut" from Lowes. This made for a sturdier pivot point. A design flaw? the longer "7" lever is at the top of the stack where the pin is more likely to wobble?
  12. A good post here. This confirms to NOT use the '63 center support on the '64 drive-shaft. I have been wanting to swap my Dynaflow to a 1965 ST-400 setup with a 12" switch-pitch torque converter for 30+ years now. After spending the last 5 years assembling my '63 Riv, I am appalled how it drives like an old car. The Dynaflow happens to be the best part! Having 98% parts to do the swap, I noticed the pinion flange has extremely sloppy 3/8"-16 thru-holes. My first inclination is to use longer bolts with nuts on the backside of the flange. Or, machine for 7/16"-14 bolts. The CV joint flange accepts the larger 7/16" bolt and appears to be a better fit. In fact, there might have been some movement here with the 3/8" bolts causing the threaded holes to be stretched-out.. Has anyone encountered sloppy threads such as mine?
  13. I've done this in wrecking yards with a battery pack to listen for a "click" from both the switch pitch and kickdown solenoids before extracting the torque converter and front pump. One time, this test had me abandon transmission removal. A trans rebuilt had removed the switch pitch. A painted torque converter, another clue.
  14. There's no mention what type timing chain set where 'tight' and 'slack' was experienced. The OE style inverted tooth or roller type. From previous communications, "tight" applies to the latter for sure. So, was there any Brand name on the packaging for roller sets? Vendors for our Nailheads source them from somewhere. For replacement, a roller set recommended over the OE style? For OE style, there's Cloyes, Melling (same?) and Engine Tech (made-in-China?)
  15. I've seen so many of these in GMs of my past where there's a "dead-zone" when rocking the crankshaft back and forth. All of those had the nylon coated cam gear. When I installed a roller timing set along with a performance camshaft in a SBC TargetMaster crate engine in the early 80's, no dead-zone. So, could it be that a dead-zone with the nylon gear was a purpose design? Of course with wear, the dead-zone would be alarmingly larger. I appreciate the wisdom shared here. I had this question for quite some time and since this post is on the topic . . . . . Also, are our Nailheads interference engines by design? I've heard of other GM engines with the nylon gear skip a tooth and the only symptom was an engine that no longer ran. Thank-You.
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