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About XframeFX

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  • Birthday 12/15/1956

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  1. Bill, I can't remember what I did here. Probably left it as incandescent. However, it had me perplexed. I lined it up to what I thought it should be and did not follow up with testing. I can't see how the design would work for illuminating the ignition switch. Simply cross-reference once you have identified the type of bulbs you wish to convert. Superbright is a start but google for cross reference charts. Many bulbs have more than 1 identifier. LEDs are polarity sensitive but 194s must have a built-in circuit as they can be inserted either way and functions regardless. The same w
  2. Coincidence both cars having wire 'caps! I like the Sport Roadster wire caps more. And oh, that red tonneau! Very nice, thank-you
  3. Tom, I still have the DynaFlow in my '63. Would there be any point in an optimized advance curve? Stupid question maybe but with the current transmission, my 'nail would guzzle fuel regardless!
  4. Jim, for the Instrument panel 194s and C9s (clock/heater control), cool white is absolutely awesome. However, without a PWM controller, the dimming function will be disabled. For intermittent indicator bulbs, I stayed with incandescent. For the 6 courtesy interior bulbs, I chose a COB style warm white 300 Lumen that's popular with RV'ers. Lighting is as nice as original 1143s with reduced current draw (image below). From Amazon I converted interior lighting only except for the Trunk which received a cool white 290 lumen 1156 equivalent and is bright (bottom image). From Superbri
  5. I appreciate comments and image on the Pertronix 1181. I've heard mostly good comments on Pertronix in general. However, there are various Pertronix conversions to choose from. I have been curious on their 'lobe sensing' 1181LS. Then, there's the DUI 1-wire. Expensive but a complete pkg, all new and advance set-up for our nailheads.
  6. 'Leather for 1963' I agree. For an original car, I've got that in my '63. Also to consider for 1st gens, Turbine wheels on 2 of the 3 production years. Then there's 2nd gens, undecided on 1969 or 70, like them both for their powertrains and styling For 1st gens, 401 cu inches is plenty displacement for me but I do like some of the features that 1965 Riviera's have. Not so much clam-shell headlights but retractor seat belts, ribbed rocker panels, awesome dashboard and switchpitch transmission. I plan to swap-out the Dynaflow to install the latter, so no longer original,
  7. OMG, very nice interior and you went the extra step with those seat belts! That is the last detail for my '63s interior and I gave up on it (for now). Not sure about 1964 but it appears seatbelts were black only in '63, mine being Brownlines as well. I see you have belt mounted retractors as well. I found and Industrial Supply place that does slings and cargo nets. They will do my seat belts if I supply the HW. After seeing your results, it has me thinking . . . . Thanks for posting.
  8. So, what other Buicks and model years shared finned aluminum front drums? My interchange indicates years mentioned above but I think the default is cast iron.
  9. For those who are not Buick Club of America members, the BCA is offering a free 6-month trial to discover this organization. It includes access to their "E-Bugle" periodical. I started my trial. Only until March 31st: http://www.buickclub.org/
  10. Looking for expertise on what Speedo gear is used on our Rivieras with the 3.23 final drive. Typically for the BR and BT Transmissions. I have 225-70R-15s spec'ing at 27.4" diameter which would make it in-between the 42 tooth green and 43T purple driven gear. I believe I have the blue drive gear in my 1965 BJ transmission. Thanks🔧
  11. The Riview showed-up March 10th for me. Thank-You. Our mail is still Monday - Friday.
  12. Good to hear problem is now licked. So, it was that old school V. Regulator. Those solid state replacements definitely a huge improvement. My charge system was good and the alternator noise did diminish after a while. But, it was a replacement 42A with the dual pulley swapped from the 52A original. Now I have a 61A with internal regulator. The 42A 10DN appears tight and spins freely out of the car. Not sure why it made that racket.
  13. Two things - 1) The AMP Light will illuminate when there's a differential voltage or if the voltage is below setpoint. 2) Have you considered updating to a 10SI Alternator? It has a dedicated terminal (#1) for the AMP Light. My 10DN Alternator made a racket at startup. I learned this after installing 2 shorter V-Belts bypassing the A6 Compressor and still had the noise. At the wreckers, I stumbled upon a dual groove 10SI 61A Alternator on a '78 LeSabre for $26. A low mileage OE original. To install, I believe jumpering terminals F & 3, 2 & 4 at the voltage regulator was all
  14. Jenner Motors was a downtown Edmonton Pontiac Buick dealer and I think Mike's Riv is a local car. Dealers were either Pontiac/Buick or Chev/Olds in Canada. Cadillacs were usually Chev/Olds and GMC on Pontiac/Buick enterprises. If Mike's Riv was indeed sold new in Edmonton, it counters my belief that Riviera's were not sold outside the US until 1965 models. I considered myself to be a 'car kid' when pedaling my 2-wheeler. I knew every 50's - 60's GM model, thought the Ford 289 was a type-o, knew only 283s. Then at 20 years of age, stumbled upon a '65 Riviera in upstate NY. This is a B
  15. This post is rubbing-in the details that I never got around to doing. Anyway, I'm past that now. No way I'm taking anything apart to get at those felts. When struggling with my gutted interior the last 2 years, those felts were not even on my radar. Brian S. and others are always setting the standard. No way of keeping up!😙
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