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About XframeFX
- Birthday 12/15/1956
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Me like too, I have a White '63 Riviera. The window has closed on Cooper Trendsetters.
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Looking to improve my Radio/Sound (64 Riviera)
XframeFX replied to atencioee's topic in Buick Riviera
https://www.tech-retro.com/aurora-design/home.html -
Adam, did you navigate to any of those links? Again, much dialogue on this already and more links if you search. The 1st link is 4-pages long. On Page #3 and quoting Rivnut on WSW width: "The wider 1.5” white sidewall series 75 tires would be the closest you could get to the original. I think it’s a matter of what we’ve become accustomed to rather than what looks correct. Once you mount a 1,5” white sidewall and get used to it, you’ll agree that that is THE tire that belongs on the car for an authentic look. I’ve run 70 series tires on a few of my Rivieras and they rub at full lock. For me the 75 series tires are best in more ways than one." Nowadays, WSW width is whatever you can find available for purchase. Unless of course you are OK spending $$$ for Diamondback, Coker and Kontio
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No, there's been plenty of recent discussion on this, triggered by fewer options available today. They are deemed a "Trailer Tire Size" Search some more. I'd copy and paste my research on WSWs, but it is already out-of-date. I went with SureTrac "Power Touring" 225/70-15 that has a 1.4" WSW. For 225/75-15s, the WSW is 1.5" wide. This is a Driver quality All Season tire, do not expect perfection. Another Cheap All Season still offering WSW is Ironman RB12. Nexen N'Priz AHS is a better quality All Season. TigerPaw AWP discontinued, Radar Dimax and Hankooks Kinergy are forever out-of-stock. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/395036-ww-tire-options-for-first-gen/page/4/#comments https://forums.aaca.org/topic/358448-diamondback-triple-whitewall-tires/page/2/#comments
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So, it appears we are all in agreement that 225/75-15 size is closest but slightly larger to the optional 7.60-15 originals. 225/75-15 comes in at 28.4" diameter. I couldn't find that size in WSWs so went for a set 225/70-15s at 27.4" diameter. A 28.0" diameter tire would've been perfect and that would be a 235/70-15. Good luck finding that one in a WSW. Vitour comes to mind, common everywhere except North America. This size will probably rub slightly Lock-to-Lock. A visual comparison:
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Ditto. Although re-skinning with Clarks Leather was also a 3X for my Riviera. On the 3rd attempt, I attacked the power seat adjuster cleaning out old grease before installing the seat with front U-Brackets switched in reverse position to gain an extra inch rear-ward. The reason the leather skin had to be removed, I broke a spring contorting my frame under the steering column to re-install the Brake Power booster. I had to pay for the re-repair of course, no warranty. When 1st installed, my upholsterer tore a strip off me complaining what crap off-shore seat skins I provided him. Seat bottom too big at the front and too small over the horn at the rear. He kept picking up the old seat skin showing the quality the new ones did not have. Regardless, it all turned out good, LOL.
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Another path would be to install one of these. However, late model Jeep Wranglers (JK) are a rare sight in wrecking yards. The Pump would wear out quickly having to run constantly due to the leak.
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Still working on a plan which may include a dual circuit conversion. I didn't do it earlier because I had too many issues needing attention on the Riviera. Now, I still have numerous issues but the power booster is at the top-of-the-List. Plus, another project needs to be returned to "roller" status once WSWs arrive - busy!
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A heads-up on 1st generation power brakes. Not only did the 1963 Riviera miss out by 1-year on the good ST400 but also the Power Booster and master cylinder. Of course after my botched rebuild, I now know the path I should've taken. Typical Riviera luck, need to address the same issue 3 times and more wasted $$$! I dropped into a local Brake & Clutch shop who is a Dealer for https://mbmbrakes.com/gm-1964-1966-9-single-diaphragm-delco-style/ The counter person spent a great deal of time with me explaining most everything on the top end of the Brake system, much appreciated! Yes, they can rebuild Bendix, Delco-Moraine, Treadle-Vac or sell me a new MBM Unit. He too agrees the Bendix Multi-Vac can be rebuilt incorrectly and if it needs rebuilding, better to switch to the Delco-Moraine unless originality is important. He explained many details regarding the swap for pushrods and master cylinder compatibility. Also, I now regret re-sleeving my master cylinder with the inferior cap & wingnut in the center. The Bendix Unit has a floating control valve at vacuum source. The reason there's an external vacuum reservoir. The Delco-Moraine Unit keeps vacuum on both sides of the diaphragm until the brakes are applied. When they are applied, obviously air is rushed-in to one side but he went into great detail on feathering of the pedal and kind of lost me. I've noticed accordion diaphragms under the caps of many single and dual circuit master cylinder caps. Easy to understand it expands when the reservoir level drops while not permitting the fluid to be exposed to more moisture laded air. However, that diaphragm is not possible in the '63 cap with that wingnut down the center! There is a "mini-cap" under the wing nut in an attempt to shield the vent. Older master cylinders have a denser body (higher pressure casting) and have a better chance of success when machining. After-Market Power Boosters that look OE with even "Moraine" in the stamping, cannot be rebuilt. I encountered another helpful Parts Counter Person at Cummins this week. Extra effort to bring a specialty tool from Service to examine for duplication. Brick & Mortar businesses and Cash & Carry still far better than online resources! !964 Power Booster and Master Cylinder:
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The Master Cylinder is back on the power booster and the seal scrutinized, definitely no leak there. I isolated the Power Booster from the tank and check valve. Pumping frantically on my Mity-Vac, I can produce a few inches of vacuum. When I stop, it plunges down to Zero immediately, a massive Leak. More on the Bendix power booster. I found a 10-year old post where a member was informed by Booster Dewey to use the 1964 - 66 Power Boosters as many 1963 Units are rebuilt incorrectly. I wish I knew this before I had my '63 unit rebuilt! He charged me plenty and returned it painted black. Also, a 1964-66 power booster would include an integral check valve and no unsightly accumulator tank with the dent for 4-note horns I do not have. I am now looking to source this superior unit to replace that incompetent rebuild. Rockauto forever sold-out. MBM below?
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Today, EVs and PHEVs have a whiny noise below say 30 KM/hour as to let pedestrians know you're in close proximity. Very annoying. Unplugging the speaker might throw an error code so I rollered-on a scrap piece of DynaMat. It helps but, I can still detect when it kicks-in.
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I like this totally. But not for X-Frame chassis😞
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