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Everything posted by XframeFX

  1. Root Cause for breakage is age, poor design or in my case, man-handling my disabled Riviera in and out of a Service Bay without Power Steering. This after installing my rebuilt Dynaflow in 1989 only to find it leaking severely. Frustrated, I had it towed back to the same people who broke my turn signal cable with large knuckles.
  2. Searching here in Canada, I found 4 of these plugs at a motorcycle shop in Quebec City but didn't purchase because another 4 are unobtainum and have been for quite some time. Like trying to find a 12" Switch Pitch Torque Converter here in 2021! From Bosch:
  3. I peek at that XLS occasionally just to see where we're at for Member number. I've downloaded a few for quick reference and to sort if I wanted. Just scrolling down, I could pick-out Canadian Members as I go. As for rarely seeing a Riviera, they come out of hiding when an owner wants to sell. I've noticed several 1st Gens for sale. In April 2016 I counted Ten 1st Gen Rivieras for sale on Kijiji in Alberta alone! One of those listings was a '64 w/Super Wildcat Engine. Because of it's low price, a local flipper purchased it and who knows where it is now. Another severely rusted '64 w
  4. Bill, I can't remember what I did here. Probably left it as incandescent. However, it had me perplexed. I lined it up to what I thought it should be and did not follow up with testing. I can't see how the design would work for illuminating the ignition switch. Simply cross-reference once you have identified the type of bulbs you wish to convert. Superbright is a start but google for cross reference charts. Many bulbs have more than 1 identifier. LEDs are polarity sensitive but 194s must have a built-in circuit as they can be inserted either way and functions regardless. The same w
  5. Coincidence both cars having wire 'caps! I like the Sport Roadster wire caps more. And oh, that red tonneau! Very nice, thank-you
  6. Tom, I still have the DynaFlow in my '63. Would there be any point in an optimized advance curve? Stupid question maybe but with the current transmission, my 'nail would guzzle fuel regardless!
  7. Jim, for the Instrument panel 194s and C9s (clock/heater control), cool white is absolutely awesome. However, without a PWM controller, the dimming function will be disabled. For intermittent indicator bulbs, I stayed with incandescent. For the 6 courtesy interior bulbs, I chose a COB style warm white 300 Lumen that's popular with RV'ers. Lighting is as nice as original 1143s with reduced current draw (image below). From Amazon I converted interior lighting only except for the Trunk which received a cool white 290 lumen 1156 equivalent and is bright (bottom image). From Superbri
  8. I appreciate comments and image on the Pertronix 1181. I've heard mostly good comments on Pertronix in general. However, there are various Pertronix conversions to choose from. I have been curious on their 'lobe sensing' 1181LS. Then, there's the DUI 1-wire. Expensive but a complete pkg, all new and advance set-up for our nailheads.
  9. 'Leather for 1963' I agree. For an original car, I've got that in my '63. Also to consider for 1st gens, Turbine wheels on 2 of the 3 production years. Then there's 2nd gens, undecided on 1969 or 70, like them both for their powertrains and styling For 1st gens, 401 cu inches is plenty displacement for me but I do like some of the features that 1965 Riviera's have. Not so much clam-shell headlights but retractor seat belts, ribbed rocker panels, awesome dashboard and switchpitch transmission. I plan to swap-out the Dynaflow to install the latter, so no longer original,
  10. OMG, very nice interior and you went the extra step with those seat belts! That is the last detail for my '63s interior and I gave up on it (for now). Not sure about 1964 but it appears seatbelts were black only in '63, mine being Brownlines as well. I see you have belt mounted retractors as well. I found and Industrial Supply place that does slings and cargo nets. They will do my seat belts if I supply the HW. After seeing your results, it has me thinking . . . . Thanks for posting.
  11. So, what other Buicks and model years shared finned aluminum front drums? My interchange indicates years mentioned above but I think the default is cast iron.
  12. For those who are not Buick Club of America members, the BCA is offering a free 6-month trial to discover this organization. It includes access to their "E-Bugle" periodical. I started my trial. Only until March 31st: http://www.buickclub.org/
  13. Looking for expertise on what Speedo gear is used on our Rivieras with the 3.23 final drive. Typically for the BR and BT Transmissions. I have 225-70R-15s spec'ing at 27.4" diameter which would make it in-between the 42 tooth green and 43T purple driven gear. I believe I have the blue drive gear in my 1965 BJ transmission. Thanks🔧
  14. The Riview showed-up March 10th for me. Thank-You. Our mail is still Monday - Friday.
  15. Good to hear problem is now licked. So, it was that old school V. Regulator. Those solid state replacements definitely a huge improvement. My charge system was good and the alternator noise did diminish after a while. But, it was a replacement 42A with the dual pulley swapped from the 52A original. Now I have a 61A with internal regulator. The 42A 10DN appears tight and spins freely out of the car. Not sure why it made that racket.
  16. Two things - 1) The AMP Light will illuminate when there's a differential voltage or if the voltage is below setpoint. 2) Have you considered updating to a 10SI Alternator? It has a dedicated terminal (#1) for the AMP Light. My 10DN Alternator made a racket at startup. I learned this after installing 2 shorter V-Belts bypassing the A6 Compressor and still had the noise. At the wreckers, I stumbled upon a dual groove 10SI 61A Alternator on a '78 LeSabre for $26. A low mileage OE original. To install, I believe jumpering terminals F & 3, 2 & 4 at the voltage regulator was all
  17. Jenner Motors was a downtown Edmonton Pontiac Buick dealer and I think Mike's Riv is a local car. Dealers were either Pontiac/Buick or Chev/Olds in Canada. Cadillacs were usually Chev/Olds and GMC on Pontiac/Buick enterprises. If Mike's Riv was indeed sold new in Edmonton, it counters my belief that Riviera's were not sold outside the US until 1965 models. I considered myself to be a 'car kid' when pedaling my 2-wheeler. I knew every 50's - 60's GM model, thought the Ford 289 was a type-o, knew only 283s. Then at 20 years of age, stumbled upon a '65 Riviera in upstate NY. This is a B
  18. This post is rubbing-in the details that I never got around to doing. Anyway, I'm past that now. No way I'm taking anything apart to get at those felts. When struggling with my gutted interior the last 2 years, those felts were not even on my radar. Brian S. and others are always setting the standard. No way of keeping up!😙
  19. This is exactly what I need. Many Thanks! I assume the measurement is 13mm. Also, the view at another angle reveals how my left tang is entirely different. Will go at it again in short order. Snow is starting to melt! John B.
  20. I thought I'd bring this back since this original post post might've been too far back as it is for me and to provide a current link. Hilarious Ford Sales piece to their people. Scroll down for 2nd link. Part-1: Part-2:
  21. You mean with a "Lead Wire"? Here in Canada, we have PICO Wire. They have a negative 4AWG with lead wires. Two actually, a 32" and a longer 48" https://picocanada.com/products/596 For the 32": https://picocanada.com/view_product/6259-0-11
  22. Good point. This is not the original hood to my Riv. I'm not happy with the drivers door to fender gap. But the Hood-to-Fender gaps are fine. Images are with the latch in. But the Hood drops right down the middle when I had the Latch out. I tried having all 3 bolts loose so that it could float and find it's position. Oh boy, had to play with it a long time to get it open. I tried tilting the Latch using washers for shims. No Luck My image #3 at the start of this post shows paint gouged away well to the left of the left tang. I think this is where main catch has trouble sw
  23. 2 inch wide? Oh my - I'm at 2 3/16", up from 2" after bringing that right tang down from 2 5/8" where I couldn't make both latches to function and the hood still stuck closed. Unsafe! Thinking out-loud: The Latch "Tongue" is 2" wide and I know the Hood opening has to be pretty close to that to keep the hood from slipping past the main catch and for the safety to work. My latch is positioned to the left extreme. Hole in the Hood, not centered? Judging from Gungeey's image my left corners are different. Someone bashed up the left tang and is why the catch is uncooperative?
  24. Today, it will have to be NET because, they're slipping in traction motors where the torque converter was for PHEV powertrains.
  25. I just finished-up with our 1st claim on our best daily driver last month where the 5-year Replacement coverage expired 18 months prior. Did I know we'd be left with a "Goose-Egg Policy" after that! I've been with them since 1980 and 10 days of continual haggling got me an extra $2K on a total loss -whoop-dee-doo! I'm 'done' with them, a bad experience overall. I too am looking for insurance (for everything) and have been shopping here in Canada. I can actually go with my regular long time driver insurance as I've had fire and theft with them on my 2 projects for 30+ years.
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