JZRIV

Can't open photo Chris.

Yep that one is toast alright. As Tim said unavailable. This piece is an overengineered marvel. A complex geometry stamped steel frame channel with the rubber vulcanized onto it. The shape of the rubber is unlike anything reproduced so retrofitting something common is a challenge but where there is a will there is a way. My experience has been that they survived pretty well in geographic areas far away from low humidity, cooler arid climates such as the northeastern US. I've found good ones on rust buckets that appeared to have few if any good parts left. I'd expect they are out there but it may take some networking and patience to find. 66-67 is same but not sure about 68-70 maybe someone can confirm.

Great info Bob! Thanks for posting Pat G can you post a pic of the witness marks and their location. Just curious if its close to the location of stripes on the page bob posted.

In the Riviera world, I'm the only one I know that concerned myself with restoring the driveshaft paint strips when restoring the 66. Fortunately there was enough paint left to determine the colors. Hopefully someone will respond that can answer, but if not its highly unlikely anyone will be able to prove the colors you used are wrong. The 66 had one medium orange stripe and splash of yellow on the front most U-joint.

No need to remove the seat to remove the power unit/transmission and repair. I have moved power seats by disconnecting the drive cables at the transmission (assuming you are able to get to them) and using a drill motor to chuck up the square cable (just like a speedometer cable) and spin it in correct direction.

Sounds like a classic case of the internal workings of the power seat transmission mechanism being gummed up with ancient grease which causes failure to engage the output drive gears to move the seat. A simple disassemble and fix after removing the drive unit which is not difficult. I'm sure there is a video out there somewhere on Youtube.

Copying this from the Buick for Sale Forum. Be sure toi click on the "Load 8 more images" after the first few. Actually looks decent in the rough. Well optioned. Just rolled this long-neglected gold ‘71 Buick Riviera out of my dad’s garage tonight and rinsed it off. Has been in the garage since 1990 when it last ran (rough estimate). Was unable to pop the hood open, but the tires held air long enough to roll it out and back in. A tow truck will be necessary and the driveway is very tight. Location: Milwaukee, WI Album: https://imgur.com/a/DAtAyzo No sale is possible at the moment since we’re waiting on the probate office to give legal ability to transfer the title. That said, we’re trying to get people over to see the vehicle and make offers so we can move forward with a sale as soon as we are able. We’re hoping to have a response from the probate office next week.

Definitely a repaint. Seats have been recovered, new carpeting. No where near $15k in my opinion but thinking he may take way less just because of where its at.....but who knows. Going into the holidays there may not be much interest.

This was just put along highway Rt 380 near Saltsburg/Apollo PA area. No connection to it or the owner. Don't see many 67 Cats so figured I'd post it. I did not look underneath since it was raining steady.

That $1 converted to today's money is $9.69. Still cheap....especially if made in USA!

Seeing as how most museums have an admission fee, they would need to pay me to go inside at look at it. 🤣😉 Rare is the custom Riviera that aesthetically improves what the Buick engineers came up with.

Condolences on the passing of your father. Welcome to the forum. Good chance the tires will pump up and hold air at least for awhile. Small 12 volt air compressors are terribly slow when pumping a car tire from total flat. If tire is off the bead, you may need to get the weight off it and use a more substantial source/burst of air to reseat the bead. Maybe a neighbor has a portable compressor with tank you can borrow? I'm not a big fan of covers if a car is sitting outside, sometimes they'll do more damage than if left without a cover by flapping in wind and trapping moisture. Many factors play into this. These cars didn't seal real well even when just a few years old. If floors and trunk interior are already rusted there is no point or financial benefit in trying to cover it. If they are solid, any water penetration won't have time to do damage assuming it gets sold within a year or less. If you google "best outdoor car cover" you will get results with tests and reviews from reputable organizations where you can make a decision. If insistent on using a cover, don't go cheap. A high quality outdoor cover will be in the $180 range give or take. DO NOT set the emergency/parking brake as the cables can seize to where you can set the brake with the force of leverage on pedal but there is very minimal spring pull for return and its is not enough to release it. Then you have a MUCH BIGGER problem. I think you already know, considering what you have stated on the situation, do not spend any resources or money to get it running.

As EmTee stated, replacement OEM rotors are non-existent for 67-70. If the ones on the 68 are in decent shape and can be trued up you'll be good for a long time as long as you don't have a caliper seize. These early rotors were over engineered compared to rotors in the last 3-4 decades. Many conversions to front discs have been done needlessly on aluminum drum big Buicks. These big Buick drum systems were probably the most effective drum brake system offered on production cars. I've driven countless miles over decades and braking was NEVER a concern. The competition of the time period in mass could not compare in stopping power and fade resistance so the general public perception in following decades disc conversions became wildly popular one of the first things to upgrade on an old car....and in many cases rightfully so, but not relative to big Buick systems of the late 60s. As time went on, mechanics that know how to properly setup a drum brake system for peak performance declined and aged out. Then, inferior aftermarket parts further exacerbated the issue. Couple those issues with public pressure in the hobby telling people they need to convert to discs for safety, and there you have it. So owners that have weak braking and not realizing the root cause and convert to discs then say "wow what a difference discs make" when in fact had their original system been properly attended to the difference would have been barely noticeable especially the way these cars are driven today.

MORR fan as well and yea I saw that a while back and was very surprised when he showed up there. I should have seen it coming but just didn't make the connection.

I think I know who's that is! LOL. With the values of 65 GS's these days, A BS code tranny could have significant value