• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


JZRIV last won the day on August 31 2018

JZRIV had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,186 Excellent


  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    East of Pittsburgh (farm country)


  • Biography
    Live life daily by solid Christian values. Same ones our country was founded on but unfortunately are fading. Have a wonderful wife who likes Riviera's, loves to ride the 48 Indian Chief and do anything outdoors in the country where we live including riding her horse. No kids. I like American history and traveling by road trip in the USA whenever possible. Always attracted to anything with an engine especially pre-1970. First motorized machine I was the operator of was a Sears 3.5hp mini-bike at age 6. After that I was hooked, riding, repairing, buying and selling dirt bikes, then cars and was mostly self taught as no one else in the family was a car nut to guide me. Dad taught me to do the basics like tuneups, brakes, exhaust, etc on cars but being from near the depression era, he sees a car as a tool to get from point A to point B and no need to do anything other that what was necessary to keep it on the road. At age 17-19 I was full into the hobby and built a 4x4 Pinto. Dad sold me his rusted out 70 Bronco for the chassis and tolerated this project but know he felt it was a waste of money and time but probably figured at least I was at home and not out getting into trouble. No interest in todays stick and ball sports nor idolize movie stars (well, except for Clint Eastwood). Haven't played video games since Pacman in the early 80s! Didn't go to college but attended trade school during high school for Industrial Electricity which launched me into plastics manufacturing at age 17 in 1979. Except for 1 year as a heavy equipment operator after a plant closure, I've worked in all aspects of plastics manufacturing except sales.
    With Gods blessing I'll be able to retire around 65 and see more of the country by car.....and Indian with my wife.

Recent Profile Visitors

4,255 profile views
  1. I would cancel the Summit order and buy a good used set. No guarantee how the aftermarkets will fit unless someone here chimes in that has used them. Any aftermarket spindle won't be as good as originals. Spindles aren't in big demand as far as used parts go so there shouldn't be much problem finding a pair in good condition. You will have to remove coil springs.
  2. Is this a 55 Buick tail light grafted into this thing?
  3. Am I correct in assuming it does not turn over fast even when cold? Or is it still related to a hot engine. My experience has been a properly rebuilt original starter at a qualified local shop is far better quality than any big box parts store....note "qualified" being the key word. Does the shop have a long standing reputation for quality? All you get at the big box stores are Chinese quality and the warranty they have gives folks blind faith. If you do buy from a big box, DO NOT give up your original starter for a core. Did your mechanic do a voltage drop test on the cables or bypass the cars cables by connecting heavy duty jumper cables to the starter positive and the ground to the block. Either one of these simple tests will eliminate cables as a possible cause. I'd be hesitant to spend more money guessing. Any decent mechanic should be able to identify the root cause on this one. Long shot, but have you or mechanic tried turning engine over by hand just to make sure its not tight for some reason?
  4. If you want to stay with the single reservoir master cylinder send it to Apple Hydraulics http://applehydraulics.com/ or other qualified brake rebuild specialist and have your MC sleeved with brass. Then, since you'll have all new lines and wheel cylinders use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid instead of DOT 3 or 4. Primary reason master cylinders fail is moisture collecting in bottom of cylinder bore and rusting the bore which causes seal leakage. The brass sleeved master cylinder provides a more superior finish on the bore than any aftermarket standard rebuilt or new master cylinder will have. The brass of course is more resistant to corrosion/failure from moisture. By using DOT 5 fluid you will significantly reduce or eliminate brake system failure due to moisture since it does not absorb moisture naturally like DOT 3 or 4.
  5. I doubt $5 will deter most people. Jeez, that's a drop in the bucket for a 30 day listing with 24 pictures. I've made a considerable amount of money over the years advertising on CL for free. Nothing but good experience aside from the usual phishing responses. Not just the money but ease of selling stuff I would normally not want to be bothered with advertising in other venues. I will gladly pay $5 for a CL add to sell a vehicle. I've sold stuff in as little as 2 hours from the time of listing. FB marketplace has been drawing people away from CL for awhile so that's likely a reason for less listings if that's in fact the case. Having just placed a car on FB marketplace recently, its not that great a process to list and I ended up selling the car from a respondent on CL not FB.
  6. I exhausted every resource I could think of trying to find rebuild parts for a booster because I like doing things myself and avoiding the hassle and cost of packing and shipping and risk of a lost package, and like Tom said, Booster Dewey has to be getting the parts somewhere. I've had boosters apart and they aren't rocket science. I did find it odd that with so many GM boosters across model lineup that are likely the same internals why no aftermarket supplier offers rebuild kits. I thought it was just a matter of not looking hard enough to find one but not so. I contacted Dewey and ask about sending me parts and he would not nor would he reveal where to get them and really why would he because that would mean lost business. I checked with multiple other suppliers such as those for Chevy and Corvette parts as well and came up empty. I finally sent my booster to Dewey.
  7. Ken, Nothing to be ashamed of Ken. Only ones who don't make mistakes are those who don't do anything! Even though its never happened to me...... LOL, well maybe a few times
  8. Tom, I may have spoken without reliable enough info. The trumpet on my 67 GS was plastic but the option could have been added before I bought the car back in 92. Once I got the 66 and saw it was aluminum, knowing the one my 67 was plastic, I checked a trumpet on another 67 at one of the meets and it was plastic....but again, I do not know for a fact those came from factory so the chances I could be mislead by these two examples is probably pretty good because 4 notes have been a popular add-on option for decades. So you may very well be correct if you have an aluminum trumpet from a known 68
  9. Tom - Just a note (pun intended) The "trumpet" section of long horn on the 66 is aluminum and its plastic on 67.
  10. POR 15 and it’s derivatives are best for unseen areas. Its made to go over rust and encapsulates it such as floors and trunks or frames of non show vehicles. And yes one drop and it reproduces on hands very quickly and tough to get off. gloves are a must before even opening the can. Anywhere aesthetics come into play you’ll need to sand, grind and fill as necessary with normal topcoat. No magic potions.
  11. Winston, Just realized I never responded. Yes I will forward above info to Ray. Great tip! Thanks
  12. https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/d/yorkville-1999-buick-riviera-silver/6852008770.html
  13. No do NOT use clear coat. If you use a flat or satin clear doesn't matter it changes the original paint patina and you have no longer preserved its original appearance but destroyed it and can never go back. I know there is a TV trend to use a clear over old faded worn out paint to try and preserve but in fact changes the appearance and is not a good long term solution. Furthermore you can't prep properly to make it stick and hold up without changing the patina.
  14. I'd think so Pat. They were available in 67. Pics from Chimera's dream car!
  15. Parting 1970 in OH https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/d/tuscarawas-parting-out-1970-buick/6845721989.html Parting out 1970 Riviera. 47,000 original miles.Power everything. All glass is good.Dash pad is Perfect.Power strato bench seat Works $300. Rear Seat $50.Power trunk release $50.Original AM/FM radio $40.Fender skirts $75 pair. Set of 5 rally wheels $125. Black rally center caps $50 a set of 4. Jack assembly $30.Straight front bumper $75. Fresh recored radiator $100. 370HP 455 10 to 1 compression, Cranks over nicely, has good compression, Complete minus valve covers and water neck, carb moves freely $650. Call or text with other needs. show contact info 1968 1969 Skylark GS Electra 225 Lesaber G Body Regal