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JZRIV

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JZRIV last won the day on August 31 2018

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  1. Agree not original owner, at least writing the ad anyway. Power door locks and delay wipers.....things that make me go hmmm.
  2. Chris, let me know if you need assistance in decision on which one to like best.....but you probably already know what I would say so its rhetorical I suppose. Congratulations! Amazing that cars this special still turn up and were previously unknown.
  3. That has to be the best for sale photo backdrop I ever saw for a door panels! Nice job Tom
  4. In the case of bearing clearance, I would only trust plastigage because it shows precise clearance after torqueing the bearing cap to spec. Yes one can base clearance using stock rod/bearing specs and how much the crank journals were cut down, but humans make mistakes as well as bearing manufacturers. Plus, unless measuring instruments are calibrated, do you want to trust their accuracy to such a critical part of engine build? Not me! Plastigage verifies the theoretical clearance. How would one accurately measure the ID of a connecting rod with the bearing cap installed and bearing shells in place? Seal installed or not, it won't have effect on bearing clearance check.
  5. Would not use rope. The "One-piece" rear main seal in this link is what I would use. https://www.bopengineering.com/buick_v8.shtml Also if you haven't already, plastigage your rod and main bearings and record readings for a baseline. Yes it will take time but if you have have a problem when engine is started, you'll have confidence bearing clearances are not the issue.
  6. Digging that beautiful rim blow steering wheel and the coolest floor shift console of any Riv!
  7. That is a lovely photo MrAG Riv. Thanks for posting
  8. Lower performance in rpm range vs what it was designed for. Vacuum can also be affected. Many variables play into it though. Typically on a stock cam installed straight up you may not notice in seat of pants feel if its off a couple degrees. The more one is seeking high horsepower, the more important it is to degree it. In my opinion its wise to take the time to check/verify it when assembling the engine no matter what. If you get the engine together and have a problem, you will always wonder if cam setup is the root cause. If it was degreed, then that can be crossed off. Its no fun pulling engine back apart after the fact.
  9. Welcome to the forum MrMajstyk. The floor mounts for seats in the 65 can be extended rearward with basic fabrication skills. 2-3 inches works for most. Doubt you'll have a problem with the 71/72. Generally the center support bearing and mount needs replaced only once on 1st and 2nd generation Rivs and majority of time its because the rubber dries up and breaks apart. Love that 68 Caddy with the stacked headlights. Those are awesome cars. I had a 70. Join ROA if you haven't already. You'll get access to a searchable index of articles from 39 years of Bi-monthly magazines among other benefits.
  10. It is within the realm of possibility that without Glenn C at CARS back in the 80s I would have given up trying to find Riviera parts and sold the Riv and bought a mainstream car. Their booth was the most welcomed site at the big Carlisle swapmeets. Their printed paper catalog was well worn and treasured tool for the hobby.
  11. No, 67 did not have any interior GS designations/ emblems. 66 1 year only glove box emblem.
  12. Do you mean putting clear over old paint?
  13. I am amazed at the condition of car overall for 95k miles and especially driver door armrest. This thing had to be pampered. The quality of the re-paint would be one of the biggest concerns for a car priced in the 50k range.
  14. EmTee what you have circled is the gas tank vent loop. They looped it into the trunk high above tank no chance of fuel spillage at any angle......other than upside down. LOL. One end of pipe is connected to tank via hose and the other end is left open to atmosphere near rubber grommet where it exits back out of trunk. Big wide open vent as far as gas tank vents go. This vent can get clogged when car sits idle outdoors for long periods from mud dobber type wasps but I digress. Yes the drains are unusual but very effective. I've never had them get clogged to where water would back up. Its a very special hose that dumps out above axle. Probably 1.5 or 2" in diameter. The exit end of hose has a very thin rubber flap valve of sorts that lets water out but nothing in. Similar to what you might see on drain boots for older vehicle A/C systems. That hinge cavity is also open to the rear cowl vent (screened) below window.
  15. I sent a PM to Mike NC1968 for you. If he is available I'm sure he'll post. 11D = 4th week of November 1965
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