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JZRIV

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JZRIV last won the day on August 31 2018

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  1. If you have the downtime time you can ship yours to https://shop.rareparts.com/ for rebuild. Or you may find a used supplier in US to send a core to Rare Parts for rebuild then return it to you. Rare Parts is trusted and has a great reputation. Basically you will have shipping cost if you send yours. Otherwise if you find one in US from a used supplier you could have them send it to Rare Parts then on to you maybe cost a bit more but less hassle for you. Rebuildable cores usually go for around $40 or $50US
  2. I just saw this. Congratulations on doing a wonderful job on the video Alex. Great story for a great car. It was a good production to have you do most of the talking.
  3. I've done this many times. I got real good at R&R'ing the dash. Not something I wanted to be good at though. 😬 I had it down to 15 or 20 minutes but as in your case persistence will pay off. Before putting speedo back together and instrument panel back in put an ohmmeter across the hair spring contact and make and break it 100 times at different speed setpoints. You want to see less than 1 ohm repeatedly. Otherwise risk intermittent operation. I am pretty sure I did an in depth tech article in the Riview on the 66/67 cruise systems a long time ago. The hair spring contact is the Achilles heel of the system. Very delicate to clean without damaging and sometimes the thin spring gets partially worn through. The Speed Alert option used same hair spring design. On working systems, when not using cruise always good to keep the set point above the speeds you travel to avoid unnecessary contacting of the hair spring. When these systems working properly they will consistently hold +/- 1mph. Very impressive for the time period.
  4. Are you a member of the AMCA? https://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/ Single best resource out there. Local chapters, many national meets, members can access free any original documents and manuals they have scanned in and the list grows every year. Indian 4s are special and not a lot of people have good knowledge of them especially when it comes to rebuilding the engine and knowing what is correct for each year as there were many changes so you need to be careful where you get your information from. Jerry Hatfield has a restoration guide but it starts at 1932. It covers a lot but its not detailed enough to do a full correct restoration though it is a good Indian resource to have. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153862455252?hash=item23d2eabfd4:g:H5EAAOSwfF1eapZv Another possibility: https://indian4club.org/
  5. I have found using email to resolve issues with online purchases almost always ends up in frustration no matter who the vendor is. Forget the email. There is no substitute for picking up the phone and talking in person and always start the conversation politely. Trust me selling Buick parts is not a glamorous business. CARS was a pioneer in the business and began selling and reproducing parts when no one else was. I can tell you if CARS was not there when I got into Buicks I would have moved on from Buick because obtaining parts for project would have been more trouble than I wanted to deal with. I dealt with CARS for 35 years and issues were VERY rare but always resolved. Anyone that has had a Buick for any length of time and did any amount of restoration or refurbishment to it knows there WILL BE be challenges getting the right parts whether its used or new.
  6. Hmmmm. Saying a 73 is not a boattail is like saying the world is flat......whether it be from a scientific point of view or merely what has been widely accepted for decades. The boattail nickname is used loosely to begin with as the term refers to tapering of the rear on the stern of boat. This term even applies accurately to "boattail" type bullets used for reloading ammo. The rear of bullet is tapered slightly. Since the whole rear of the 71-73s are NOT tapered, we can speculate the term boattail may be in reference to the center section/hump of trunk that is tapered wide to narrow which the 73 maintained, though a little less pronounced. Just my personal opinion.
  7. Old vehicles will emit some fuel vapor smell after parking in a garage but it should subside in a couple days and completely after a couple weeks as the fuel evaporates out of the carb. The smell should not be so strong to go throughout the house. Is there an HVAC duct to the garage? Check for gaps or vents in ceiling or walls of garage for any other way air could easily transfer from the garage to the living space. Even when there is vapor smell in garage so little should transfer to living space that it would be noticeable especially at the level you indicate. I used to live in a small house with integral garage underneath and no special barriers and never had a problem upstairs with migrating fuel vapor. As others mentioned I almost always leave the car outside until it cools down. So I'd suspect there is a fuel or vent hose leak in car or there is consistent air exchange between the garage and the living space. Surely there is not a HVAC cold air return ducted into the garage but stranger things have happened. Was there a home inspection done when you acquired the home? Often that will pickup any deficient issues related to the garage/HVAC as there are strict codes governing that. It should not have taken several weeks for the smell to subside after removing car from garage. I expect in 1-2 days it would be gone. Especially in an older home that is not very air tight. I'm a uncertain why that would be. There isn't anything else stored in garage the smell could be coming from?
  8. In my experience the tendency for creep between high and low stall is minimal and has little effect on idle and certainly not enough to make it stall. I suspect a tuning problem. Ignition carb and/or vacuum. When did this problem start?
  9. I was going to say if you have a competent shop that is familiar with the Dynaflow, getting yours gone over and resealed would be the best route by far vs starting down modification road which could leave your car undriveable for a long time. Along with being first year, to me the Dynaflow is what gives a 63 Riv unique character.
  10. Thank ye kindly Tom. Had a member contact me looking for one.
  11. Several months ago or more there was a 66-67 rear bumper posted here for sale and it was pickup only no shipping I think in eastern PA. It was an early take-off. For the life of me I can't find that post in the search function. Does anyone recall it and/or who had it? Thanks
  12. Rockauto online - Airtex 40927 or Carter M4511. Or go to NAPA and ask for stock replacement pump
  13. DO NOT run the car if you have fuel in oil. Change fuel pump, change oil and replace oil filter. Hard to say about the starting issue as there can be many causes. First order of business is to get the fuel leak issue fixed.
  14. Tim, For now I'd apply some JB weld over the plug. Of course you'll want to scrub clean the area before applying.
  15. An ROA member from Australia is looking for both sides of the rear quarter glass for a 66-67. I am not 100% sure if 68-70 is exactly the same. I have a right side but he would like to find both at same time and ship together to save on shipping. If you have a left side let me know, or if you have both in decent shape you can just deal direct with him. Otherwise if I can find a left, I will purchase and ship it together with mine.
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