JZRIV

The transition point from door window weather strip to the special quarter window is right where the quarter window and door window meet. If original there is some sort of black nylon tape covering factory joint and there is a metal reinforcement piece that protrudes inside both pieces that can be reused. If the nylon (order whatever its made from) tape is in good condition and with careful removal it can be reused using black RTV to make it stick. Take you time here. Always best to start cutting a little towards the door window side and work your way back to insure a clean joint. To expand on the hard rubber quarter window top seal, that is a specially engineered piece and must have added a lot of manufacturing cost for what it does. Its a complex formed metal housing with all the rubber vulcanized to it, hence why no reproduction. For the most part these held up well in cars that didn't have years of exposure in arid climates. I will say if buying a 2nd gen Riv I wouldn't want to buy one that needed these seals! Very difficult to find good used.

Remove the box/housing from engine side firewall. Very easy with no A/C.

I've replaced just the pitman seal with unit in car. Looks like you also have a leak at the end cap which is just a large oring behind the cap which is held in place with a spring ring. Go to RockAuto.com and drill down through and you will see pic of the pitman seal.

Thanks Steve. I knew I had seen the car before at the nationals but just couldn't place it. Always enjoyed spending time with Al and Kathie.

Yea it does look really nice and a great color combo. I see it was in the 2011 Jan/Feb Review if someone wants to lookup the article and who owned it back then.

Not uncommon. Field winding insulation is breaking down and the heat exaggerates it. Hopefully you have a qualified shop nearby that can rebuild it.

Good Lord! - That is a stunning car you have Matthais. Wow! Thanks for posting pics

Agree not original owner, at least writing the ad anyway. Power door locks and delay wipers.....things that make me go hmmm.

Chris, let me know if you need assistance in decision on which one to like best.....but you probably already know what I would say so its rhetorical I suppose. Congratulations! Amazing that cars this special still turn up and were previously unknown.

That has to be the best for sale photo backdrop I ever saw for a door panels! Nice job Tom

In the case of bearing clearance, I would only trust plastigage because it shows precise clearance after torqueing the bearing cap to spec. Yes one can base clearance using stock rod/bearing specs and how much the crank journals were cut down, but humans make mistakes as well as bearing manufacturers. Plus, unless measuring instruments are calibrated, do you want to trust their accuracy to such a critical part of engine build? Not me! Plastigage verifies the theoretical clearance. How would one accurately measure the ID of a connecting rod with the bearing cap installed and bearing shells in place? Seal installed or not, it won't have effect on bearing clearance check.

Would not use rope. The "One-piece" rear main seal in this link is what I would use. https://www.bopengineering.com/buick_v8.shtml Also if you haven't already, plastigage your rod and main bearings and record readings for a baseline. Yes it will take time but if you have have a problem when engine is started, you'll have confidence bearing clearances are not the issue.

Digging that beautiful rim blow steering wheel and the coolest floor shift console of any Riv!

That is a lovely photo MrAG Riv. Thanks for posting

Lower performance in rpm range vs what it was designed for. Vacuum can also be affected. Many variables play into it though. Typically on a stock cam installed straight up you may not notice in seat of pants feel if its off a couple degrees. The more one is seeking high horsepower, the more important it is to degree it. In my opinion its wise to take the time to check/verify it when assembling the engine no matter what. If you get the engine together and have a problem, you will always wonder if cam setup is the root cause. If it was degreed, then that can be crossed off. Its no fun pulling engine back apart after the fact.