Hazdaz

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About Hazdaz

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  • Birthday November 10

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  1. Looks cool. Curious what folks in Germany have to say about this car. There were so few non-European cars there when I visited Germany a few years ago, and very, very few old classics.
  2. I'm through Hagerty as well and you basically set the price to what it would cost to replace the car - and I'd recommend including any extra cost you think you might have to go through since parts aren't exactly readily available. The cost difference for even a few grand extra is really minimal. They know their market - cars they ensure are typically someone's baby, and as such they tend to be cared for better than a daily driver. Plus the fact that an older car would typically not be driven that many miles, the odds are in the insurance company's favor that you won't need them because of an accident. Insurance is all about odds and statistics.
  3. Give me some details, mate. Price, etc...
  4. Never seen this before but I was ordering a starter on one website, and the list of choices for my 1964 401 is engine code KT or KV. On another site, they asked for the part number on the starter itself. Is that even easily found on the starter without disassembling everything? Its been pretty much non-stop rain over here (whole summer has been a wash-out!), so haven't had the chance to go out and grab the engine code off the block or look under the hood to see if I can even find any codes on the starter. One of the ones I was looking at was from Jegs: https://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/9501/10002/-1?ymm=4294829682+4294829225+4294829199 Autozone has one for TWICE the price: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter/duralast-starter/120294_23521_0 RockAuto only has the solenoid and not the entire unit. Kanter is the one asking for the tag number on the existing starter: https://www.kanter.com/productdetail.aspx?DeptNo=3100&MakeName=Buick&MakeYear=1964&CategoryID=400&ProductCode=4000&Router=Catalog
  5. Have you looked at Walnut shell blasting? It's not nearly as hard as sandblasting and shouldn't damage the base metal but can take any finish off of it.
  6. Much more common on classic pickups and ratrods, but a Mexican blanket would do it.
  7. I won a couple of cans of this glass cleaner at a car show last year. Best glass cleaner I've ever used.
  8. Do you have a website? Or at least specs/info? I'm also in CT, where are you located?
  9. Is it really? My current set up had a resistor on it already. The car was rebuilt before I even bought it, so not sure if those guys didn't know that it was built in or what. My understanding is that the resistor helps increase the life of the points, but reduces the spark going to the distributor (and thus spark plugs). I had been searching here and some people were talking about Petronix Ignitor upgrade to their stock distributor. Does anyone have further opinions on this set up? Worth the cost? If I am correct, it helps improve the responsiveness of the motor.
  10. Chrome is way harder than steel. About 8.5
  11. Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a shot with the cleaned-up coil I have, but probably also going to order up an MSD Blaster II coil (with resistor) unless folks think there is a better option out there. This coil was mounted horizontally and everything I've read states that its recommended they are mounded vertically.
  12. Looks like windshield glass is about 6-6.5 on the moh's hardness scale, and steel is roughly at a 4-4.5 (but can vary quite a bit). According to that, you should be fine with steel wool. I still would be very reluctant to do it myself.
  13. So I've been having issues with the '64 not starting and I think (hope) I've diagnosed it down to it having a bad coil. Took it off the car and long story short, the wire from the condenser coil snapped not giving me any way to solder it back on. I checked the resistance on the primary and secondary coils and only the secondary one looked within spec, but the terminals did have gunk on them too. I cleaned the corrosion and gunk off the terminals on the coil and I was hoping to test it out, but I'm guessing that might not be a good idea if the condenser isn't attached to the circuit. I'm seeing that regular coils are about $25 and MSD ones are around $40-50. None of them have a condenser on them though. Are these newer style coils that don't need a condenser? Is it built into the coil itself? Does the car need to have one installed? Or does anyone have an even better solution altogether (like a more modern ignition system)?
  14. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-buick-riviera-6/ This color combination is stunning in my opinion. My '64 is a similar exterior, but combine that with the tan/brown interior - WOW. BTW, is it me, or does that nailhead seem to "shake" more than normal when he popped the hood? I don't have any other ones to go by, but the one in the video seems like it vibrates more than I was expecting. Could be just my imagination.