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On 11/21/2023 at 12:10 AM, nick8086 said:

Looking at a trip to Turks and Caicos Islands or Hawaii.. Not sure on which one will win..

 

It is car related.. I will have to let a another car go to fund the trip..

 

Any one have any in put on these places?

 

Yes that car will not fund the trip but it will help..

 

 

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PM me about T & C. 

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Taking care of the results of many years of leaking rumble seat lid at rear floor pan of my 34 Plymouth PE convertible coupe.  Cut out a 24 inch section of the bad metal for a patch but then remembered that my brake is only 20 inches wide--made the patch out of two pieces with 1/4-20 nutserts.  Thankfully the only really bad rust in the entire car.  The saga continues... .  SMB

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Carburetor and ignition issues. Auburn speedster 851SC. Took less than two hours to dial it in. Five lanes wide on 95 at 70 mph. 
 

 

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Slightly less exciting than Ed's adventures, I was able to tear down and reassemble the driveline last week to replace the failed clutch pilot bearing - so silly a failure after 3kmi due to an incorrect bearing model# install, oof so much work to drop springs and rear etc., but the car drives so nicely now that the correct bearing is seated in the flywheel, thankfully no harm done to the tranny and other bearings due to the failed bearing.

Clutch lining showed very little wear, and was quite uniform on the outer edges of both sides of the clutch lining.

Pic shows dry fitting the correct bearing on the end of the tranny input shaft before seating in the flywheel...

 

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Today I had a bit of time so I laser cut new gaskets for the water pump for the big Sterling model 'FT' in the 1919 Lombard Tractor-Truck. Tapping them out with a ball peen hammer would work as well but I have the technology at hand so what the heck, plus now I can cut as many as I want with just a push of the button. Not that there will ever be a big demand. (LOL) We disassembled the pump so we could 3D scan and reverse engineer it while the engine itself is undergoing a teardown.

 

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Edited by Terry Harper (see edit history)
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Today my wife and  I changed the battery in her "bought new" 14,000 mile 2019 Ranger ....... It would have been easier to sell or trade the thing, and the battery cost $392 bucks !!!! I've bought decent, driveable cars for that amount. The next thing I did was put a bracket in my friend's 2021 Jeep that supports the sun visor stem that breaks in them. A very common  thing the dealer said. 2 screws out, 2 guys holding and grunting, 1 clamp held in place, then 2 new longer, different type screws to lock the clamp in place, but, it worked ! And, whoever heard of visors that had electric wires in them, sheesh. Give me something made from 1972 back any day.... Next jobs will be changing the oil and filter in our Sunbeam Tiger and fixing a small gas leak in the 55 Studebaker, things I understand, lol.  No pics, Jeeps and Rangers are boring and the pictures wouldn't show all the bad words we let fly.

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I've tried to have time for the last month to fix two little problems with my '30 Model A. Time has not been kind to me. The A's generator had said it was done...and while looking at it, it was clear the radiator hoses had also seen their last shift, with cracks all over. I ordered a 6-volt positive ground one wire alternator and bracket since this is a driver. And I found a new set of red stripe hoses still in the bag in the car. I FINALLY got them changed this afternoon. I was a bit disappointed in the perceived quality of those hoses, but maybe they will work. Hopefully this weekend I'll get the alternator installed so I can get back to the '52 and get it reassembled and buffed.

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59 minutes ago, John Byrd said:

and the battery cost $392 bucks !!!!

I knew battery costs are increasing, but that seems outlandish! What kind, brand, model did you buy? You didn't tell them its intended use was a space launch, did you?

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3 hours ago, pmhowe said:

I knew battery costs are increasing, but that seems outlandish! What kind, brand, model did you buy? You didn't tell them its intended use was a space launch, did you?

Yes sir, it is outlandish, but here in Hawaii, everything has to be shipped over 2400 miles from almost any manufacturer. ( Paradise Tax the locals call it ) We lived in TN and AL before here, and some costs here are still shocking, but so worth it .  As it says in my post, it was for our 2019 Ranger, and unfortunately, it is a Die Hard which is exactly what the other ones I've had did, died hard and were short lived. BUT, it was all that was available and part of the price was for delivery as one wasn't available at the "bargain Big Box stores", and we had to have one asap. Sometimes we just have to put up with it, but then again, we have to have no AC or Heat in the house, boots, jackets, frozen pipes, storm doors and windows, insulation, and bought a house with solar panels which means a 26 dollar a month electric bill. Besides, it's my wife of 48 years truck, and she said "get it fixed quick", and I have finally learned not to argue, ha ha !. (I ride a scooter that gets over 110 mpg that now has nearly 30,000 miles, so I claim my lack of gas use evens things up, lol)

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Well, after a week of work and time running the lathe, I finally was able to pull number one sleeve. I can definitely say that this engine has been rebuilt before. The sleeves have no flange on top. It took about 30 minutes to pull the sleeve. The sleeve is .095 thick and an od of 3.376. None of my books show what the sleeve bore should be. If it has .090 sleeves, and the bore is 3.187, then the sleeves should be 3.367. I mic the sleeve I removed at 3.376. I don’t know if my calculations are correct so chime in if you can. Mike

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Hoping to finish this 1960 300 F engine rebuild assembly this weekend and take it to dyno for break-in and tests in about a week or so and then install it + the rebuilt transmission soon after.

Also still working on sorting couple of electrical gremlins in the shifting system of the 812SC transaxle I recently rebuilt along with few other issues (most were caused by previously done substandard repair work and/or proper maintenance) and building/modifying replacements for failing OEM CDI modules in ‘72 V12 Ferrari scheduled to come in after the Cord is finished.

And also rebuilding couple of Chrysler coaxial power steering gear assemblies, one ‘56 & one ‘57, former having sat since mid-sixties & latter having had some type of recent “rebuilding” (not sure by who ?), but apparently quit assisting/working after less than 100 miles.

 

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Edited by TTR (see edit history)
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Today we had a cookies and coco meet and greet with Mrs and Mr. Santa Claus. Arriving early and in between greeting visitors we cleaned the flues, smokebox, blast pipe nozzle and ash pan on the 1907 Lombard. Took a few elevations on the Lombard road and exercised the 1934 Lombard tractor-truck.

 

Wild temperature swing. We started off the day (5:30 am) at 4F and ended (7:30 pm) at 30F

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Edited by Terry Harper (see edit history)
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Got the new one wire alternator on the A. It's charging well, changed the fan belt too. Found out the ammeter flat isn't working.  Drove it a couple of miles to test it. I really wish I had someone near with a similar car so I'd know what sounds are normal. But it seems to be ok. Maybe now I can drive it some.

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I am looking for a bottle of sparks if anyone has any extra, lol .... I cleaned and adjusted the points and fooled with a few other things on our little Tiger yesterday ( NEVER bother a car that is running perfect ! ) and now I have no spark. I think I'm going to be a "parts changer" as my Daddy called them instead of a mechanic for a few things, it's time anyway, then I'll solve the problem ( this means find what I messed up, lol ! ).

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31 minutes ago, John Byrd said:

I am looking for a bottle of sparks if anyone has any extra, lol .... I cleaned and adjusted the points and fooled with a few other things on our little Tiger yesterday ( NEVER bother a car that is running perfect ! ) and now I have no spark. I think I'm going to be a "parts changer" as my Daddy called them instead of a mechanic for a few things, it's time anyway, then I'll solve the problem ( this means find what I messed up, lol ! ).

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Boy, that is a fully packed engine bay.

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38 minutes ago, TexRiv_63 said:

Boy, that is a fully packed engine bay.

Yes sir, the Tigers were tightly packed, so much so in fact, that the air thru' the radiator doesn't have a good way out ! Good radiators, holes other than the radiator opening stopped up, clean water ports and jackets, an extra electric fan, the rear of the hood up and a couple other things are not unusual for folks to try. So far, mine has not got over 205 F even in heavy traffic here in Hawaii, so things are in pretty good shape. My 1st Tiger would heat up into the scary range when it saw the key come out of my pocket, lol. Love the little cars tho'.

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Got the "parts changing" finished and it fired up instantly and is running great again. I did what I always tell people to not do, changed several things at one time instead of one at a time, lol. Hood down, tools cleaned and put up, ready to go ! Happy boy (and wife, she loves it) !

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What’s today’s project? Pulling a transmission out of a five ton dump truck. Interestingly, the dump truck is a Cadillac with a V-16 engine. I think Phil and I will need hernia surgery next week. More to come. Your gonna get to see the crankshaft also. 
 

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3 hours ago, edinmass said:

What’s today’s project? Pulling a transmission out of a five ton dump truck. Interestingly, the dump truck is a Cadillac with a V-16 engine. I think Phil and I will need hernia surgery next week. More to come. Your gonna get to see the crankshaft also. 
 

 

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Can't wait to see the rest...

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Since my new to me 1924 Buick is being worked on, I decided to restore some 1924 state tags to go with it.  One turned out pretty good but the other is just questionable.  I'll use which ever one looks the best.  The colors used back then were light grey and maroon.

Although the city did not have municipal tags back in 1924, I replicated the 1987 municipal sticker and changed it to 1924.  Do you think the authorities will notice?

 

Wilson Fausel

Cary, NC 1924 Buick Touring 24Four35

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We built our house 6 years ago and I wanted a beam in the garage to aid with pulling engines etc. 

I was advised that that wasn't going to happen.

Well, when the house was originally designed there was a 10 foot opening between garages and the joists were made to support that. Then I decided to open it to 12 feet and the engineer missed the change, so I have cracks forming 1 foot in on the header on both sides.

The obvious fix was to put in a steel beam and support posts. So now all I need is a motorized hoist. 

No objection this time as the problem is fixed.

 

 

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Well some good news and bad on the Ford 8N project. I would like to wish you all a Merry Christmas. I was able to pick up the engine block yesterday morning. In the afternoon I was able to get the valves and guides, lifters and cam out. I have set up a space in the barn about 10 X 10 that I can heat so I can continue work on it. I need to go through all the valves and cams to see which are the best. Bad new is that the ford 8N have three different set ups for the bore. We are use to going to a parts store to pick up parts and there are only one or maybe two options. They made blocks that have no sleeves, .040 sleeves, and .090 sleeves. Mine has no sleeves. You can’t go be the serial number either. You just need to open up the engine to check what you have. I was planning on getting the block cleaned at a machine shop. Now it will need to be bored out for sleeves. I just don’t know which sleeve to use yet. I’m leaning towards the .090 sleeves. I’ll be calling the machine shop next week to see how long it will take to get in. More to come, Mike 

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41 minutes ago, lattrm said:

I'm working on 2 projects. A 1952 Allard K2 and a '54 Kaiser Darrin

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You might want to contact nick8086 on this forum for Kaiser parts.

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The 41 Chevy STILL I think I finally found the problem rebuilt carb rebuilt fuel pump got the car started ran beautifully went for a ride broke down halfway down the driveway looked at glass fuel bowl noticed bubbles in the fuel coming from around the bowl and the fuel level dropping took the bowl off and where th gasket seals at the pump housing is very pourous 

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21 hours ago, keiser31 said:

You might want to contact nick8086 on this forum for Kaiser parts.

Thanks Keiser, I noticed Nick and a couple of others - I'm a new member to AACA so just working on my 15 posts before I'm allowed to message.

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I don’t use my 240 buzz box welder enough.
 

 I’m working on a 1970 Chevelle. Been in a barn for 15-20 years. Snapped off a bolt while taking off the thermostat housing. I know I can weld a nut to it. Then turn it out. Yet, safely with confidence? Hmm. 
 

Think it thru. Take all safety measures into consideration. Stick weld. Let’s try negative anode. 70 amps. See how it goes. I don’t want to blow anything apart.  Nope, no  good. 
 

i’ll try positive anode.  Turn it up to 85 amps. Just beautiful. Nice flow. I could hear it. Much better.  Success! Broken bolt came out like butter. Sometimes its the small things. I love good heat on seized rusty bolt. I need to start a welding log so I can reference it next time. 
 

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