keithb7

You can make your own brake adjustment tool. I did. A few video on the topic can be seen. Search for “Mopar brake adjustment tool keith’s garage” on you tube. That’s my channel. Lots of help on there for you. Keith

I’m not in the big leagues. I figuratively play ball in a local beer league. Its fun to keep my cars going. It’s great fun to drive them and meet new people. I’ve learned so much. When I’m feeling brave someday, I might actually tackle bodywork and paint. I already know I’ll be great at making a mess of it. My ‘38 Plymouth is now reliable and safe. I drive it often. I’ve pretty-much run out of talent. I’ve exercised all my skill sets here at home. Bodywork , paint and upholstery are not on my list of skills. Yet I may still give it a go. Trophies are not on my radar. Having fun and feeling good about my work is the goal. In time, we shall see how far I’ll go. The going shop rate rate here is measured by motivation. It comes and goes.

I tried to stand in the exact same spot. I estimate about 100 years apart. Looking at the early cars am in the right period? 1924-ish? Thx. White Rock beach, BC Canada

A good way to get rid of anything in the block to remove the lower block plugs near the distributor and rinse everything out. Install new plugs.

Thanks Neil. @GAER I recommend you watch some of my YouTube Instructional videos. Some feature my ‘53 Chrysler Windsor, my ‘38!Plymouth, or my ‘38 Chrysler Royal. They are all very similar. Most all of the knowledge you pick up is shared between all cars. I don’t know enough detail about your engine to make specific suggestions. In general there can be tons of sediment in the block. Open your block drain spout. Does coolant flow out? Consider removing your rad and sending it to a rad shop for a good internal cleaning. Some videos here:

I really should take item #1. Is it still available? @Jolly_John

HI folks, for sale is a brand new, complete fuel pump kit. I ordered it in error from Then & Now Automotive. New price is $5-9.50 US Funds plus shipping. How about $45 US Funds including pre-paid shipping within Canada or the USA? Paypal preferred. I am in Canada Thx. Keith It fits the following Mopar models: Chrysler:1936 6 cyl, 1937 C16, 1938 C18, w/ overdrive Desoto 1937-38 S3,S5 Overdrive, 1939 S6,RHD Dodge: 1937-1938 D5,D8 Overdrive, 1939 D11 RHD, Swinging windshield Plymouth: 1937-1938 P3,P4,P5,P6 1939 P7,P8, 1940 P9,P10,P15

I don’t use my 240 buzz box welder enough. I’m working on a 1970 Chevelle. Been in a barn for 15-20 years. Snapped off a bolt while taking off the thermostat housing. I know I can weld a nut to it. Then turn it out. Yet, safely with confidence? Hmm. Think it thru. Take all safety measures into consideration. Stick weld. Let’s try negative anode. 70 amps. See how it goes. I don’t want to blow anything apart. Nope, no good. i’ll try positive anode. Turn it up to 85 amps. Just beautiful. Nice flow. I could hear it. Much better. Success! Broken bolt came out like butter. Sometimes its the small things. I love good heat on seized rusty bolt. I need to start a welding log so I can reference it next time.

I think I do alright. Re-saeled more than a few valves. Rebulit a couple valve train systems. Rebuilt a flathead engine. I really feel that a person attempts to seal valves, new or otherwise, you must confirm they are sealed. Each and every one of them. I like to test by ensuring each seat will not allow liquid to pass. Kerosene, solvent, diesel, whatever. A cylinder leak-down test at TDC works too. Never assume valves are sealing just because you had the seats cut and new valves installed. Do not cut corners to re-use guides or springs. You’re that far in. New springs and guides are cheap.

I tend to connect the black Pertronix wire to the bottom of my shop garbage can.

How did the axle shaft come out? I suspect you had the brake backing plate mounting bolts removed? I’d put the axle shaft back in. Re-install backing plate and bolts and pull that hub off the axle. Sure will be easier and do-able with the axle mounted back in place. Maybe my next video will help you?

Sounds like most of this has been sorted. I wanted to chip in and talk about shoe adjustment. If the shoes are set nice and close to the drum, they can impede drum removal. To remove any doubt, you can back off the minor brake shoe adjustment cam bolt. Half way up each side of the rear backing plate. I think they take a 3/4” wrench? Turning the bolts so the wrench is moving up towards the car’s engine hood, (both bolts) loosens shoe to drum clearance. Turning the bolts so the wrench is travelling down towards the ground (both bolts) tightens-up shoe to drum clearance. By backing off the brake shoes, you then know the shoes are not contributing to impeding drum removal. I agree, the hub is supposed to live on the drum. Here are couple of pics of a spare drum I have here. -Keith

A master cylinder kit is not expensive. Just measure the bore of your cylinder to ensure you get the correct kit. Just because you see another Mopar master cylinder that looks just like yours, it could have a different bore. I learned this the hard way. The original Mopar manuals that I have seem to miss the position of 1 rubber washer. It is seen in this image from my Motors Manual. Far left here, valve seat. Thank you to folks who are recommending my You Tube Channel. Its purpose is to help others with their old Mopars. https://youtube.com/@keithsgarage5831?si=0NPxciG-BsXeoUkF I have salvaged questionable looking master and wheel cylinders. A little elbow grease and emery cloth can usually get them sealed and working again. - Keith

This info may help you find something:

I own a ‘38 Chrysler Royal 6 cylinder. It does not have a floor button starter. It has dash button that I push to activate the starter solenoid. Is your ‘39 Chrysler a 6 or 8 cylinder? If an 8 cyl seek out a starter marked MAX4037. If a 6 cylinder seek out starter MAX4020A. If you search these on ebay you’ll see options. Personally I’d probably find a used starter core , marked as I indicated above. Then take it to a local starter rebuild shop and get it rebuilt there in your area.

Ay 52 I don’t qualify as part of the up-coming young generation, however I would be tickled to acquire a model T. What’s the attraction? Why? The car’s iconic past. The car that was such a massive success. Half the cars in the word were Model T at one point. The affordable, fixable car that changed the lives of so many. It brought secluded farmer’s wives and families to town easily and quickly. The massive behemoth car company Ford. The quirky downright stubborn ways of Henry Ford and the resulting car. I’ve read a few fascinating books about Ford and his company, up until he died. What’s hold me back from buying one? Brakes and power. Seriously. I live in a mountainous area. A long hill with 11% grade down and back up every time I leave the house. Drivers often seen speeding at 50 mph on that hill. No white lines and no shoulders. Nowhere to go. Poor rear lights and its slower than any car that modern driver expects to see on the road. I’m holding out for a Model T when we re-settle some day. Perhaps move into town. Live in the valley. Where there are flat roads pretty much everywhere….Someday.

Hoping to find a good home for these books. All as shown. I’m in Canada can ship via mail. How about $75 US for all including prepaid shipping via mail? Paypal preferred.

Are you guys referring to some type of built-in ballast resistor? Is this only needed for the 12V cars? Which this 1924 Dodge is. My 1938 6V Mopars do not have this coil resistor that you speak of. What is the purpose of the ballast resistor, if needed? To lower the voltage going to the coil? Thx. (Learning every day here) Keith

Indeed. A tumultuous time in the Mopar lineage.

I visited one my friends recently in Alberta Canada. I had not planned on creating a YT video. Yet when things start to go sideways I figured it was time to capture the moment. It was a fun outing.

Today it was a 1924 Dodge sedan. However we had to get towed home. It wasn’t far though. The coil is done. It fired up again after 2 hours of cooling time.

Try testing the actual fuel pressure near the carb fuel inlet line. Before buying a regulator. Holley offers low or high pressure options. This one here can drop it to 1-4 psi. I have one of these. It works. You can also rebuild it if the rubber diaphragm breaks down due to ethanol. You can also buy various springs to get the pressure reduction you want.

I went with this set up. Works great in my ‘38 Chrysler. Hopefully there is something valuable here. https://youtu.be/d2pQW_LIdiE

Hmm. Seems odd that you are getting hotter at faster travel speed. You have a ton of air moving through the rad at 60 mph. Plenty of air to cool the water. The rad is a new re-core and clean. Shouldn’t be the rad if it’s newly re-cored. At higher speeds the engine is working harder. Burning more fuel. Making more heat. The original cooling system would have been adequate. At higher speeds the mechanical advance should advance the timing. If the timing is wrong the engine will produce more heat. Is your advance working? You can check it by watching your timing light on the pulley and rev the engine up. What is your static timing? A lean air-fuel mixture will make more heat too. How’s the jetting feel at the higher travel speeds? Any possible air leaks in the carb? Float level accurate? What’s the age of your water pump? Have you looked at it?

Looks like you’re having a good time with it. These are fun cars to cruise in. I have uploaded lots of You Tube informational videos on maintenance and repairs of these cars. You may find them useful. Search for “Keith’s Garage”. Regards, Keith