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Everything posted by keithb7

  1. A boom out the exhaust generally leads me to ignition timing or exhaust valves. Popping through the carb leads me to intake valves. If you take the air filter assembly off the cab, you can have a real good listen down in the carb. As Rusty mentioned a stuck valve. A bent valve. When the piston comes up on the compression stroke, air/fuel may be pushed back out the intake valve. Make sure the popping noise is not coming from an exhaust manifold gasket. They sound similar. Yet the exhaust manifold gasket noise is sharper, closer to a popping sound. The intake noise more muffled. Agreed, a compression test will reveal what is likely the culprit.
  2. I have a small economy car to get back and forth to work. A 2006 Mazda 3 hatchback wagon. Cheap reliable transportation. Earlier this summer we broke all time high temperature records when we hit over 120F. One day I was driving my little Mazda thinking how spoiled I am to have A/C. The very next day it stopped blowing cold air. Oh boy was it hot. I started researching prices for all the AC stuff needed when you open up an AC system. The parts were not too bad, if the did all the labor to install the new parts at home myself. Then I was thinking I could just take it into and AC shop to be vacuumed down and charged back up again. I sorta failed to accept the notion of dropping the car off at a garage to get it repaired. I thought about it, as I am so very busy working on my old Mopar cars and other family vehicles. I was feeling like treating myself to a little "mechanic's rest". Maybe I'd just take this Mazda in, drop it off. Then pay the bill 2 days later and be done with it. I did not. Though I certainly was tempted. I researched the OEM shop manual to learn how to troubleshoot and test the A/C system components and switches, etc. I narrowed it down to the compressor magnet for the clutch. It was not locking on when the AC switch was pressed. I had voltage at the wire to the magnet. Yet the magnet was not activating. I found a new clutch kit on Ebay for an attractive price. I waited a month for it to arrive. (Ebay Global Shipping to Canada is brutal). I tackled the clutch kit tonight. It was not an exact fit. The new pulley was wrong. A thermal switch was incorrect. However the actual circular clutch magnet was right. An exact match. I tested the original old thermal switch. It had continuity. I figured it must work. Only 1 wire going in, though it and back out. So I chopped it up and made it work with the new clutch magnet. I practiced some soldering skills. A little butt-splicing. Some heat-shrink. I installed the old pulley over the new magnet. Clipped the wire connectoions back together. Tested. Voila! Success. The new magnet was now engaging the clutch. The compressor was compressing. I had cold air again in the cab! I drove out for ice creme in celebration, and cold air. Total cost out of my pocket: New Clutch kit on Ebay $30 USD New compressor drive belt $20 USD I am pretty confident if I had taken it in to a shop they would have told me the compressor needed to be replaced. Then when you open up the AC system you need a new condenser and receiver drier at a minimum. Then there is the refrigerant recharge fee. Then the shop labor charges. I haven't been to a garage in so long I have no idea what hour shop rates at these days. US funds $130 hr? A guess. The bill, had I taken it to the shop for the repair would have been $1500 USD easily. Stay in school kids.....Or at least get on the tools as soon as you can. If you like driving, and having some pocket money left over. Lol.
  3. @55fast see here. Brake set up tool, above. I still have a few more left. Price is $90 shipped. See instructional videos above. Stock brakes work just fine when set up.
  4. All I see is doom, disaster and death. What a nightmare. “Honey can you go up top and make me a sammich and a grab me a beer?I’ll keep driving. We’re almost at the Grand Canyon. Only 2 more days!”
  5. Today at a local car show I saw this 1930 Rolls Royce. I was very intrigued. 6 cylinder overhead cam engine. The body, like a van or a hearse was built for the sport shooting enthusiast. In the rear there were spots ts to store your shotguns amd ammo I was told. Cubbyholes in the rear for ammo, picnic lunch and a full tea set. 2 jump seats for your buddies. Tons of room for clay pigeons. It seems like someone knew how to have fun with the boys. What a rare treat to view this car in my area.
  6. I like a certain type of car. I can think of a couple of options. 1) Buy a car that looks like it just came off the farm and rebuild it. Spend $40-50k easily factoring in body and paint. There is no limit here. They sky is the limit on what you can spend. 2) Happen onto a car for sale that I like that has been restored and looks amazing. I cannot restore said car for asking price. Purchase price is nowhere near total cost to restore said car. What did I do? I bought the car that looks like it just came off the farm. I am fixing it up slowly. Body work and paint may or may not be in the budget. Then the car I really want to end up with, found me. I bought it too. I am driving it often and enjoying it immensely. I am wrenching on it a fair bit too. The "off-the-farm" beater keeps me challenged as well. It will continue to for years to come. Future sell prices? I gave up caring. I am living my life doing what I love. It brings me great satisfaction. I do practice the car hobby within a budget. My heirs can sweat about the future value sell price.
  7. I bought my first LED garage light today. Is it 4 ft long but has 4 tubes of LED lamps. Looks like 4 fluorescent tubes, but are LED. The entire fixture puts out 7,000 lumens. That was the highest output I could find at Home Depot here. I was shopping based mainly on lumen output. The length and size of an LED light matters less to me, than the total lumen output. I am very happy with my purchase. I plan to buy 5 more. For a total to 6 lights, amassing 42,000 lumens. I may need a welding mask on full time. Lol.
  8. Motorcycle fork, rebuild and new seals. New tire. Set up and maintenance. Ready to go! My son's MC. He worked overtime all day at his summer job, so I helped him out repairing his MC.I do enjoy the garage time. Do you figure he got good life from his worn out tire? We are changing it up to something a little different, better in the rain.
  9. My lovely wife helping out today with some detailing. Love it when she gets in there to give it her special touch.
  10. You have a good engine there. I have a 1954 25” long Canadian engine in my ‘38 Plymouth. It was 228 ci when new. I recently bored it over to 237 ci, stock Desoto size engine. No need to be concerned about the later year engine you have there, it’s very similar to the original engine. I suspect you likely have a 217.8 ci 23.5” long American engine. When your 1936 Dodge was new it also had a 217.8 engine, however it had lower a compression ratio. 6.5:1 Netting 87 HP. The 1954 engine had 7.0:1 compression ratio. Netting 97 HP.
  11. A couple months later cylinder #2 compression is now up to 85! Getting better. Will come up more yet I bet. This is great news.
  12. That filter looks about right for a 1930’s car that saw limited service intervals. It may even be considered neglect or abuse. Lol. Oil and filers are cheap. Change them often. These engines are not tight or efficient. Tolerances are loose and sloppy compared to today’s standards. Meaning oils degrade and contaminate sooner than you may expect. Keep up on your maintenance and regular inspections. You’ll reap the benefits! Resist the urge to save money on fluids and filers after you have spent $5K rebuilding that old flathead engine. 😉
  13. I have no experience with the push button tranny. Yet a dog-leg 3 speed with reverse and overdrive suits me just dandy!
  14. Fyi that little green wire going to the distributor base is crusty and corroded. This is the wire that travels up to your coil. The one that I’ve been talking about above, checking continuity. This is a good example of bad wires that cause trouble. In the last photo shown, it appears the points breaker arm is at or very near top of a distributor cam apex. Yet the points are not open. Are your points opening and closing as you turn the engine by hand?
  15. Sorry. Dizzy cap is short lazy slang for distributor cap. Not the center wire at the coil no. The smaller wire. It travels from the coil to the side of your distributor. It connects to the points. When points close connection goes to ground.
  16. Wow. I am pleasantly surprised to see so many, and such a large variety of American built cars in France! There is a very healthy mix of cars there. If not for the French language signs the odd Citroen in the background, you could easily think this show was in North America. Great job France car lovers. Great!
  17. The pinnacle of Chrysler maintenance! I hope to achieve similar heights maintaining my ‘38 Chrysler Royal!
  18. Thanks for the plug Jim! That’s my YT channel. I try to keep the Mopar topics stripped down for beginners, where possible. Mike you need a digital multi meter. You could attach the positive lead to a good, clean rust free ground point on the car. Loosen all spark plugs so you can turn the engine by hand. Take distributor cap and rotor off. Push the dizzy cap aside a little. Don’t unplug all the plug wires. Clip the end of other multi-meter lead to the point on the coil, right where the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor, connects to the coil. Set mutli-meter to continuity test. Turn fan blade. Watch points open and close. Muti-meter should produce a long beep when points are closed. No beep when points are open. A test light could provide similar results. Power from the battery. The light only comes on when points are closed.
  19. It ran 5 years ago. So what changed? Ethanol in the fuel may have corroded rubber parts in the fuel system. It also leaves scale and residue inside the carb. Plugging up fuel ports. Tiny opening called jets get plugged. Not allowing fuel to pass. Air moisture corrodes bare exposed metal parts. Ignition contacts like points, cap, rotor. Clean them up. Hopefully there are no engine valves stuck. It happens. Rodents may chew on wires. Especially important, is the wife from the coil to the distributor. If you have a mutil-meter, the wire from the coil to the distributor makes contact to ground only when the points are closed. Ensure this is correct. Remove the fuel line where it enters the carb. Put the end of it in a bucket. Have a helper crank the engine over. Is fuel spewing out at a good rate? I always like to perform an obligatory compression check on all 6 cylinders. That tells me a lot about the condition if the engine. These are a few places to start. Could be other things too.
  20. Thankyou. I do love the old prewar Mopars. I also own a 38 Ply sedan. Yup. Spoiled rotten.
  21. I must admit ya’ll are making me blush a little. I’m no pro mechanic. I have just a habit of focusing very hard until I find the solution. It’s invigorating to me. I never spray a problem with new parts and pray for it to be fixed. I truly perform one step at a time. Then test drive. Rinse and repeat. Don’t stop till it’s done. I’ve learned a ton by sticking to these guidelines. I may be picky but I want it running as best as it can. I've been just a tinkerer most of my life. It all adds up, compounding. I literally got my first flathead vintage Mopar in 2017. I’ve spent the last four years neck deep in them. Before that, my last vintage car was my daily driver 33 years ago. A 1976 Dodge Dart. I love the hobby. Too much fun.
  22. Below here is a summary of the past two months. I've been dialing in my new '38 Royal. It's been a fantastic journey to get here. I gained some great skills that will help me look after my 2 old Mopars for years into the furture. I thought that others may gain from my learnings if I document them here: I found quite a few things to get this car dialed-in. In summary: -Coil wire at internal rear of coil. Exposed wire strands possibly going to ground intermittently. -A non-stock spring inserted above check ball, under set screw for accelerator pump circuit. Removed spring. -Bad points anchor bolt. Stripped threads. Would not lock down and hold the set gap. Updated. -Incorrect sized steel BB balls in the carb valves for intake and outlet of accelerator pump. Found both BB's same size. Replaced with correct sizes. -Valve lash found to be between 0.002" to 0.0035" wider than published spec. Re-set to spec. -Oil mist inside distributor cap. Cleaned up/degreased inside distributor cap and points/breaker plate. -Air leak at carb base adaptor place. Gasket shriveled up and shrunk. Replace with new gasket -Accelerator pump leather cup hard and stiff. Could not maintain steady flow of raw fuel stream. New accelerator plunger assy, spring and spring top retainer plate installed. -Adjusted float level to spec -Re-tensioned spark plug wire caps that anchor to spark plug. Getting loose. - Added carb base plate heat shield plus new gaskets -Added heat shield at front bottom of exh manifold to assist keeping fuel pump cool -Removed incorrect fuel pump and pressure regulator. -Installed stock type mechanical fuel pump, without built-in air pump - Found 1 cylinder with lower compression. 75 psi versus 95-100 psi across all others. -Cleaned all carb passages -Tweaked and set dwell and timing. Published spec for timing is 0 degrees. This is not really appropriate for today's fuels. Advanced timing 2-3 degrees. Every step that was addressed seemed to add some improvement to the engine's performance. I will add Marvel Mystery Oil to my fuel tank indefinitely in an attempt to free up possible stuck ring on piston #2. I will measure the compression again in a few months to learn if it's up. What a car. It's been fantastic so far. Lots of good times and memories to come. It's hard to drive it anywhere on any type of schedule. It attracts a ton of interest. People of all walks come to see and enjoy this car. I get it out as much as I can. I drive it lots and show it to the public regularly.
  23. Hi folks, there is no crack in the main bearing. Just a mark from the dial indicator used to check specs. I have all the assembly parts here staged and ready to go. All machining work done. I have not started reassembly yet. Perhaps I should start a new thread on engine reassembly from scratch, for the beginner. Then I will pick up on everyone's helpful comments. It's been 35 years since I last rebuilt a car engine. I reassembled the first couple of engines I rebuilt somewhat correctly. They ran well and made good power. Longevity? I can't say. I sold them off a few years later. Time is hard to come by right now, to reassemble this engine. I am working diligently on my newly acquired 1938 Chrysler Coupe. I have been working out all the little gremlins. Getting it sorted and in a fine state of tune. I wait all winter for good driving weather. We're in the peak of great weather now. I want to enjoy driving my 38 Chrysler, and attend car events right now. I'm quite busy . The engine reassembly will have to wait. I will probably poke away at it a little here and there. The majority of work to be done over the coming winter months.
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