Terry Harper

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Terry Harper

  1. Alan, As mentioned earlier you want one for Marine use. I have used Interlux with good results. If you really want to weather proof It you could epoxy saturate the wood and use the varnish as a UV protectant. West Systems or MAS epoxies will work well. - brush on-sand and varnish.
  2. Hello Alan, Nice work! I would second a good quality marine spar varnish. I use it to protect the epoxy on my wood kayaks. Without the spar varnish it would turn cloudy. I am actually in the process of re-varnishing one kayak now. It was last done about 10 years ago. Its not because the varnish failed its due to a unexpected encounter with a rock requiring the repair of a hole Along with taking care of numerous scratches etc. from day to day use. If it does get dull or needs re-doing just wet sand and re-apply.
  3. Thanks Jon! That's easy enough to do! Best regards, Terry
  4. Thanks Jon, It didn't want to idle down without sputtering and dying. That makes shifting using the forward & reverse lever interesting with all those heavy bits and pieces whirring around fast.
  5. Thanks Jon, Lombard was affiliated with Linn for a short time when Linn was affiliated with Republic. Here is one of the 20 ton beasts. It was powered by a Climax Engineering 6 cylinder (6"x7") The 10 ton 5-3/4"x7" was a Wisconsin type "PT" T-head. Below is a photo of the one I have in my shop. The last Lombard (1936) was the one and only diesel and used a massive Fairbanks-Morse diesel engine. It set a record of pulling 298 tons of pulpwood loaded on 22 sleds.
  6. I believe its around 10 mph. This machine four speeds forward and four speeds in reverse. The larger 10 ton machines were 3 speed and were good for 8 miles per hour which.... having spent some time behind the wheel of one of these beasts is plenty fast enough! Here is a video of Herb and I at the Maine Forest & Logging Museum taking the 10 ton 1934 Lombard out for a spin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMXxymNBlt4
  7. Jon, The carb on this one is a Zenith "77". We would love to find some instructions for it! The Lombard story is rather interesting. Alvin Orlando Lombard came to fame as the developer of a very effective water wheel governor that featured in the early development of hydroelectric power. Later, in 1899-1900 he developed a neat steam powered automobile in which he and his wife toured Maine. There was a lot of talk of it going into production but then he got distracted. That distraction was the development and putting into production the first commercially successful crawler track system. In November of 1900 he developed his steam log hauler which featured his patented track system. The classic Lombard steam log hauler weighed 19 tons was steered by a set of skis and was designed to pull heavy trains of sleds loaded with logs. In fact it was one such machine Lombard sold to a firm in Montana that inspired Holt to develop his original tracked machines. Anyway, Lombard produced steam powered machines until 1917. However, as early as 1905 he was developing a gasoline powered machine. These, like the steamers were half-tracks. Most were classified as heavy tractors and were used extensively in the woods of Maine, New Hampshire, New Brunswick, Quebec with a few finding their way to New York. A typical example would be the model "NW" produced in the mid to late 1920's. Lombard called these "Auto Type Tractors" . They weighed a nominal 10 tons and were usually powered by a huge Wisconsin or Sterling T-head motor. The last Lombard left the Waterville, Maine factory in 1936 . Interestingly for such a small firm Lombard even produced their own engine design for a few years - these were offered in both six cylinder and four cylinder versions. The Model "T" was part of a line-up designed to broaden Lombards market by making in-roads into the booming construction industry and overseas sales. The model "T" was offered alongside two much larger siblings - the 15 ton CS-88 and the monster "GT" which was rated for a 20 ton load. Yes, the Lombard is very similar to a Linn. In fact H.H. Linn worked for Lombard before developing his own design. While Lombard dominated the lumber industry in the North East Linn developed a very strong following in construction and road work. Below is a standard 10 ton Lombard model "NW" circa 1925
  8. If you thought this was about some obscure variation of a model T Ford you would be mistaken - Its about a totally different kind of beast. However, now that your here sit back and enjoy the tale. Yesterday I had the pleasure of driving down to Paul's to help bring his 8 ton Lombard Model "T" dump truck back to life after a 20 year slumber. Powered by a Hercules YXC-2 six cylinder motor this particular machine was purchased in 1928 by the town of Gorham, Maine for plowing and road work. Its one of only two known survivors. Paul had the magneto and generator rebuilt by Clement's Starter & Alternator in Carmel, Maine. Reggie did an excellent job! When Paul took the carb apart to clean-up he discovered that one float was cracked and the other was obviously a homemade replacement. However, he was able to fix the cracks and one of our very talented museum volunteers has offered to fabricate a new set since finding a replacement would be rather difficult. As it is we can get by for awhile. After some impressive backfires and one majorly impressive, spectacular ball of flaming gasoline shooting out the carb we discovered that mmmm.....uuuuuuh..... sigh........... we had the firing order backwards in relation to the rotation of the mag.......... With that fixed the beast fired-up and with a bit of fiddling now runs rather well. Next stop is the Maine Forest & Logging Museum where we will work through the "to-do-list" and have it out and about for our visitors to enjoy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMXxymNBlt4&feature=youtu.be Here is a video from Reggie testing the magneto at his shop - Clement's Starter & Alternator: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zB-s6H-Bzg
  9. Locomobile. Note the condenser on the front. They had to retro fit it to comply with the British law that no steam vapor be visible. The condensate was not returned to the tank as it was with condensing Stanley's and Doble's but simply dripped out on the ground. Quite a few of the little beasts were sold on your side of the pond. Best regards, Terry
  10. Alan, Here is a good start: http://www.kimmelsteam.com/ http://www.kimmelsteam.com/ofeldt-boilers.html If your a steam automobile nut be prepared to go down the rabbit hole for a long, long time! Best regards, Terry
  11. Alan, I believe I purchased the crush gaskets for the Wisconsin through Restoration Supply Co. T
  12. Great progress Joe! Interchangeable parts is all about tolerances and understanding that precision only needs to be where its needed to maintain design intent. There is no such thing as the perfect part. It only needs to fall within the specified minimum and maximum tolerance. I think a lot of the issues with the early automobile industry and interchangeability was mind set (small volume artisans) and the available tools and techniques of the day. Remember that the closets industry that approximated the precision required to manufacture a motor was probably the firearms industry with all its hand fitting. Blueprints and drafting standards including calling out tolerances and fits as well as precision measuring instruments were in their infancy. Today we take for granted Geometric Dimensions and Tolerances (GD&T) with those wonderful symbols and reference frames that tell us so much. I believe I read somewhere that machinists at Sharps Rifle didn't work from a set of prints but by taking measurements of a master model. Its amazing they produced what they produced so well. But then again it was a different age, different work ethic and economics.
  13. A few years ago I had the privilege of trying to hand crank my friend Don's big 18 liter Wisconsin T-head. There is no compression compression release. I could easily get it up on compression but swinging sharply that last little bit was beyond me. Don on the other hand who is somewhere between 6'-2" and 6'-6" and worked in the woods his whole life made it look easy! The other trick is with a battery setup is bringing it up on compression and hit the ignition. A good example of this technique is a video showing the "Beast of Turin" coming to life. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TV2l6TOuGA
  14. Hello Joe, The spalling on the cam lobes brings to mind one of the issues with the early Studebaker V8. Early on they had a lot of issues with damage to the cams. Part of it was lubrication but a large part was the increased contact load due to increased valve size and weight, and the need for rather stiff springs to keep the whole assembly in contact at high RPM. I wonder with the large heavy valves and hefty lifter assemblies used on these T-heads combined with poor heat treatment if that could be similar though at much lower RPM. On my engine the cams show just a bit of surface damage but the rollers are perfect.
  15. Hello Joe, That's an interesting design for the lifters. On the Wisconsin the slot in the lifter guide (that the roller rides in) keeps the lifter from rotating out of alignment with the face of the cam lobe. The brochure states that the cam lobes are heat treated, hardened, ground and keyed and pinned to the shaft. While the rollers and pins are "hardened steel". The lifter bodies are also hardened and the adjustment screws are case hardened and the top face ground. The pin is an interference fit. The top of the lifters are dished with an oil hole angled down to a hole bored completely through the axis of the lifter and threaded for the adjuster screws. An oil groove runs around the circumference of the lifter with an oil hole connecting to the center passage. The idea of the oil hole to the dished top is to provide a "oil mist" to lubricate the valve stems - these being enclosed with aluminum shrouds. The bearing bronze lifter guide also has oil grooves (around the inside circumference near the top of the bore and vertical) Anyway, not sure if this is useful or not! Best regards, Terry
  16. Hello Joe, From what I understand pickling removes any scale, flux residue ect. The solution recommended for brass is 10% sulphuric acid. However, there are some home grown solutions ranging from vinegar to lemon juice to alum. You will have a redish copper blush that can fairly easily be removed. Anyway, since my assembles are a combination of brass and bronze I am not sure if I can use sulphuric acid or not. There is also a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide pickle solution that supposedly removes the copper blush.... still studying this!
  17. Joe, Are you going to acid pickle the manifold to neutralize the flux?
  18. Joe that manifold looks most excellent! You have inspired me to get mine finished as soon as I have a few nice days to work outside. My plan is to mock-up the manifold using the cylinder blocks as the jig and solder it all up in place. That way I can ensure it fits properly since the mounting studs are not exactly perfect. The castings have been laying around on the work bench way too long!
  19. Joe, It looks great! Its obvious that this project is in good hands! Terry
  20. I know originality is a big plus but... installing a different engine such as the RD405 will get this wonderful beast out on the road. Who knows maybe down the road the correct Continental will turn-up. Meantime you can enjoy it!
  21. Awhile back I was asked if we could re-create some hardware for some large Vesta drum lights. This is the type of project my students and I live for. (I teach Drafting & Engineering Technology at a high school CTE center) Using the remains of the existing parts, several of my students worked to reverse engineer the components using Solidworks. We then 3D printed the parts to help verify that the modeled pieces were accurate and satisfied the design intent. At first I thought about 3D printing and casting new brass pieces using the "Lost PLA" method. This is a form of investment casting. However, since my foundry guy is several hours away and without a kiln handy we decided to try using our CNC milling machine. After importing the files into Fusion 360 to develop the setups, milling processes and tool paths and writing out to G-code this week we finally were able to test the setups and do a run through using machinable wax. Since the flange is curved to match the radius of the headlight we had to develop a fixture to hold the work piece during the second setup. To speed up the process we 3D printed the fixture which worked perfect! Today we ran it to see how it would all work. Other than a error on my part that resulted in the flange being too thin the wax part came out great! There will be two more setups - one to hold the piece while the hole for the hinge pin is drilled and bored and the other for milling the male and female cutouts. Here you can see the fixture Finished blank. The flange is too thin and the top is a bit truncated due to an error on my part that's easily corrected. Our students love these types of projects. In the CTE world we call them "Live work" projects. They give the students an opportunity to develop hands-on skills with the knowledge that the work is real and meaningful. It also allows us the opportunity to interface with the community and local industries. As an example, back in December our Farm Mechanic's and Building Trades students completed a set of heavy logging sleds for the Maine Forest & Logging Museum. The museum provided the lumber and a pile of original castings and fittings. A local equipment manufacturing firm donated time and materials to fabricate some of the missing pieces. All good fun!
  22. I am not familiar with Seagrave motors... however, my assumption is the valve guides are either screw-in or pressed in. I would replace them given the condition and the fact that they are all probably well worn from years of use. If they are pressed they can easily be pressed out. If they are threaded than I would suggest boring them out until the remaining shell is thin enough to break-up and remove. For material - that's a no-brainer - good old grey cast iron. While your at it I would look into either doing a complete re-build of the original valves (grind stems etc. and ream the new guides to compensate) or find or fabricate new valves. I went through this whole process a few years ago with a big 18 liter Wisconsin T-head. I had to replace all the valve guides and fabricate new valves. The valve guides we machined out of grey cast iron. Since I could not find replacement valves I ended-up using a wonderful set of blanks intended for EMD diesel locomotives. These were stainless bi-alloy (one alloy for the stem, another for the head). After turning the head to the proper 2-5/8" diameter, cutting the seat, keeper slots and to length they came out great! However, the original stems were .500" dia and the new stems were .577" dia. That wasn't a problem because we simply reamed the new valve guides to fit. I believe on the valve guides I held .002" clearance on the intake side and .003" on the exhaust. New valve guides Valve blank a received from Carl M. Cummings Manufacturing Turning to size and cutting the seats - we also used a tool post grinder on the seats as well. 12 new valves, 12 new valve guides all installed
  23. I fabricate core boxes. These are filled with core sand and once cured the cores are bonded together and placed in the mold and accurately positioned using the core prints. In this photo the patterns have already been rammed-up in the drag (lower half of the mold) - excuse me if I get these reversed! The drag has been flipped over and the other half of the patterns placed. Next the sand will be added and rammed-up to form the cope or top half of the mold. The pattern will be pulled and the gates, runners etc. will be cut. Then the patterns will be removed (pulled) and the cores set in place. In the photo below is a set of cores all cured and ready to be glued together. Here are the cores (coated with graphite) positioned in the drag (lower half of the mold). These particular pour was for the intake manifold. Here is the cope (top half) ready to be placed. You can clearly see the core prints that locate the cores as well as the runners, gates and shrink bob and vents cut. Here are the fresh castings with the cores knocked out. Ready for machining and polishing!
  24. I feel your pain in regards to SolidWorks. It doesn't seem as intuitive as Inventor. On the other hand there are some tasks that are easier. In regards to bondo and the top coat. Yes, generally all I am trying to do is fill any imperfections and mask the layering. Most of the bondo and first primer coat get sanded away in the process. The idea is to get a good finish on the pattern so it will pull cleanly from the mold. On my early wood patterns, in many instances I used a coat of shellac rubbed down with steel wool to seal and fill the wood before the finish coat. Below is a set for the valve shrouds for a Wisconsin model "A" in a 1917 FWD truck. For this set I imported the model into Fusion 360 to generate the tool paths then exported the G-code to Pathpilot for our CNC milling machine. Best regards, Terry Below, are the castings along with the original piece we used for reverse engineering.