keithb7

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About keithb7

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    Western Canada

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  1. Hi folks. It turns out I have a Mopar D54-xxxxx SN engine here. 25” long block. Made in Canada. 4 ½” stroke. Have not had the head off yet but I’d wager its got a 3 ⅜” bore. Netting 228 ci. Likely came from a 1955 Dodge Royal or similar Canadian car. Most replacement engine parts listings are for American built Mopar engines. I am having trouble locating engine parts lists for my 228. Internet research tells me Chryco only offered the 25” block. They changed bore and stroke to accomodate power needs for each application. They got the same block down to a 201 ci, and as large as a 265 ci. I suspect distributor, cap, rotor, points, condenser, stuff may be the same accross the Canadian line up from around 52 to 55 in the 6 cylinder flat head offerings. Can anyone help with confirming this or straightening me out on this? For example Bernbaum lists tons of parts for mass produced American Mopar engines. I don’t see parts listed for the Canadian 228 engine. Thanks. Keith
  2. I drove my 98 Ram ¾Ton truck to Vancouver Island a couple weeks ago to buy a ‘38 Plymouth. Its a big truck and I had a 20 ft flat deck trailer. I was about 43 feet long total. I drove on the ferry empty. Came back full. Cost me under $400 CAD. return. I had a passenger too included in that $400.
  3. Thanks @Tinindian. I will dig in and give it a try. On the polarity: My 38 is positive ground. When the points open the primary voltage present at the points goes to ground. Would the wire hooked up to the point be the positive wire in this case? Keith
  4. I was contemplating replacing the original coil in my ‘38. I dug in and was interested to learn how the large power cable off the key switch goes to the coil. It’s heavily shielded. A modern 6V coil won’t work like this it seems. A newer replacement coil has a positive and negative terminal. Original does not. As I believe negative comes right off battery to the ignition switch, then is the heavy shielded cable to the rear of the coil. Wondering what my options are to go about this properly. This is a new one for me. Thx.
  5. My 1953 Chrysler. Mahale oil pan gasket from Rock Auto. $12. Labor free. Did it myself. Cleaned all sludge out if pan and painted it. Now running modern detergent oil. This example is the polar opposite of the Exotic Sport car scenario.
  6. Wow. Those are some serious compression gains. Any concerns about the parts down the line? Piston rings? Piston, pins, con-rods, bearings and crank for example? Will these parts take these higher intensity blasts reliably? Just curious on your thoughts here. Old iron is generally over engineered I suspect.
  7. Spectacular work! By chance did you take a compression test before and after? If so what were the results?
  8. The drum calipers shown above could be used to measure the inside drum diameter. That would tell you if the drums are still within spec. They are of little help in setting up the brakes properly. Simply put, the trick is to set the curved shoes, equal distance at all points, to the very centre of the axle. This is 99% impossible to set accurately without some help from some sort of tool, or other creative idea. When the round brake shoes are set just right they make full contact with the drum. All points. This is so vital to proper brake operation. Think about the total contact area of all brakes shoes on the car. Its not much. These shoes have to stop these big heavy cars, full of passengars and luggage, on a down hill slope at a good speed. Every little bit of shoe area that is not contacting the drum properly has a big effect on reducing brake power. The amco tool as shown above, is pretty well useless. Important required pieces are missing. Hen’s teeth was mentioned earlier with good reason. You can see why some of us are reverting to home built tools. The master cylinder that is leaking brake fluid is also a concern. Yes, either reseal it or buy a new one. I resealed mine and re-used it. It works well but I see a little brake fluid trapped in the rod dust boot. So a little brake fluid is coming out where it should not. It’s not dripping or getting worse. Pretty sure I have worn cylinder walls. A new one is in my future some day. In the mean time I keep a very close eye on my brake system. I pull the floor cover and inspect the Master Cylinder fluid level monthly. I look for wheel leaks regularly too. Any opportunity to pull the drums and check the wheel cylinders, I’m in there. Probably 3-4 times each cruising season. (April to Oct). You can’t be too careful when running the stock single cylinder master.
  9. You could get lucky and get the brake settings close without a tool. It can be done. You may spend lots of time trying also. Then still have limited results. Brakes are very important. It makes sense to take the right steps to do things right, with confidence. You’ll appreciate it when that 5,000 lb wagon is overtaken by gravity on a steep hill.
  10. Cold oil is thicker. Hot oil thinner. If oil pump or shift piston is starting to wear, it’ll be easier to build and hold pressure with cold oil. The tranny needs oil pressure to overcome spring pressure to shift. When it does happen to up shift, does it easily down shift when slowing down? Consider an oil pressure test. Instructions are readily available.
  11. I had a friend help me put this tool together last weekend. The result of setting the brakes, concentric, properly to the axle is awesome. I played around with brake settings for two years. I could not get it right. Low brake pedal too. Pumping 2x at each stop made did bring the pedal up. Once I set the shoes up properly, the pedal came up where it should be and feels great. The car stops better. I am so happy to have a tool that allows me to get the brakes properly set up in my 53 Windsor. They are the same Lockheed brakes.
  12. Pre-war cars...For future readers who may be newly interested in old cars and read this thread: There are great deals in 4 door sedans in my opinion. Here in 2019 I picked up a stock 4 door 1938 Plymouth sedan. Running and drivable for what I think, was a great deal. No it's no coupe. It's a family wagon. They made 100,000 plus of them in 1938 alone. Actually they made 119,669 4 dr, trunk sedan 5 passenger P6 cars. Of that, 50,000 seem to be rotting in pastures currently. 50,000 were crushed or demo-deby'd. The remaining have been chopped and have high performance V8 motors in them. I would guess there's not that many stock ones left around. Incidentally around here, there are few to ever be seen. Not many stock ones come up in my internet research either. Why? Because it seems few folks want them. Yet I am having ton of fun learning about pre-war engineering and design. I have little so far invested and have no aspirations of making a buck when the day comes that I have to sell it. The family all piles in and we have a ton of fun in my 4-door cars. We chat and get caught up. We get ice cream and sit at look-outs and laugh together. We smile, honk and wave all the folks who show appreciation for the old 4 door family cars that nobody wants. We have lots of quality time together. Is there an opportunity here? A way to get middle aged family guys into old cars? Perhaps. Wouldn't be too hard to get your wife to agree. Cruises with the kids? Seatbelts? Easy peasy. Great memories to be had. Throw the dog in and head out for a cruise. Everyday, a vintage 4 door beats a family of 4, each on their iphones ignoring each other.
  13. For my 1938 Plymouth. Looking for a starter. My windings and armature are done. Looking to replace. Car has a mid-40’s D24 engine in it. My understanding is the starters throughout this period are interchangable. Starter model number reads MAW-4009. Has mechanical linkage starter clutch engagement. No solenoid. Would need to be shipped to 98295 in USA. Or V2E 1L3 in Canada. Thanks.
  14. I guess it depends what your goals are. At this point I have little interest in a Concours showing. I just like wrenching. My father barely knew where to put oil and gas. My brother and I were into cars. We both still are. We sorta developed on our own. Originally we had to wrench and fix our junk cars out of necessity. Later in life we are still at it because we want to be. My Brother owns a 60’s American, 70’s and 80’s European cars. I like early 50’s and older Mopars. We both attended trade school. Not in the automotive trade but heavy equipment. I took shop classes in high school. Neither of us inherited a dime nor property. We busted our butts to carve out a home and garage that works for us. No lifts. No paint booths. No mig welders (yet). I’m 48 and figure I got many good years left. I read and research a ton. I roll up my sleeves and do what I need to, to keep my old cars reliable and appealing. I set my sites on achievable goals. A Duesenburg at Pebble is not in the cards for me. Sure I’d love a detached shop with a hoist. I want one bad. Common sense tells my retirement is not too far away. Might be better to save that $100K so I can more comfortably retire. The double car garage I own now is adequate. I’ll make it work. I’ll still be having fun out cruising. Bonding with my cars knowing every nut and bolt intimately. No nuturing here. No hand outs. No using Dad’s tools or his garage. No coaching. Just will and determination.
  15. 6V Golf cart batteries are not a good solution for an engine starting battery. Golf cart batteries, like RV batteries are designed for long slow discharge. And long slow recharge. Car batteries are designed for maximum effort all at once. To crank over your cold, tired, out of tune, thick oiled, engine, as quick as possible. Then when it is flashed up, the alternator pours high amperes back into the battery to recharge it quickly. Deep cycle RV, Golf cart, trolling motor type batteries won’t take this type of use for long.