keithb7

Members
  • Content Count

    326
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

205 Excellent

1 Follower

About keithb7

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Western Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I also saw the Krit in Reno. First one I ever saw. Their logo certainly got my attention. At that time it was a non-issue.
  2. I am excited about my recent baby steps in my project. I have been working on wiring. We now have dash lights! It’s cool to sit in the car, in the dark garage with only the dash lights on. Great for nostalgia.
  3. I read somewhere that it was about 1938 when Chrysler Corp started up the engine factory in Canada. There they only made the 25” long cylinder head sized block, I learned. This engine could be bored up or down to suit small and larger engines up to the 265 ci. I believe the same block could be used for a smaller 218 ci engine. Different cranks were used too for various stroke lengths to match cubic displacements. I think the 265 is the largest flathead 6 cylinder Mopar car engine. Is that right? I realize they made a bigger straight 8. Was that 8 ever cast/poured in Canada? Did Chrysler Corp make any 265 engines within the USA? Or were they all poured at the Canadian foundry and shipped to the USA for cars built there? Were the shorter 23.5” head size engines destined for USA built cars, all made in the USA? Pic just for fun. Its a 201 vs a 218 crank. Thx. Keith
  4. Is it a single horn with a long snout?
  5. Some more thoughts on electron flow....Welding! We clamp a ground cable to a metal object. Then we control volts and electron flow from the tip of the welding gun, to the metal and back to the ground wire. Again, electrons moving so fast that they melt metal. We literally melt the metal pieces together using electron flow. Thicker metal needs more amps. We can only get so many amps from a 120v home welder. So we can only weld metal that is thin. Car body panels are thin. So these 120v welders work pretty well for autobody work. If we need to weld thicker metal plate we need more electron flow. So we up it to two or three phase 240V power. Now we’re talking! We can melt thicker metal now and join it together. Electron theory is just that. A theory. We can't really see it and touch it. We can measure it. We can control it and make it do things for us. It’s there. We sure can feel it when it goes through us. Ouch.
  6. I’ll attempt to simplify car battery electricity. Just because it’s fun. This is for the folks who said they don’t understand electrical stuff. Here’s my simplified version. The battery has a chemical reaction going on inside it. All the positive charged electrons are connected to positive terminal post. All the negative charged electrons are attached to the negative post. Electrons don’t necessarily like to be separated, nor charged positive or negative. They like to be neutral. If all the negative and positive electrons are allowed to mix together in a battery to us commoners, “it’s dead”. The electrical differential is gone. It makes no power to turn anything “on” any more. So back to the positive and negative electrons. They are dying to get together and will do so at the speed of light, at any opportunity. The negative electrons will rush over to join the positive electrons when a good pathway is provided. Try laying a steel wrench from one battery post, connected to another and you’ll see. Those darn electrons will move so fast and so furiously that they'll heat up the steel wrench and melt it! So we don’t do these things. We have learned to harness and control the mass flow of electrons. So in a car for example we hook up one battery terminal to the car frame. We call it ground. It’s not really ground. It’s a metal frame. Electrons move really well through metal. The other battery post we connect to various electrical loads to make them do work. Then we connect the other side of the electrical load to the car frame. So we then have a complete circuit back to the battery. Electrons can flow from the battery, to the load, like a starter or head lamp, whatever, and make that item work, and then the electrons flow back to the other battery post, via the car frame. They’ll travel fast but we have designed things so that only so many electrons are needed, and can go through the electrical load and back to the battery. We control electrons and we measure them by reading amperes or “amps”. We can use resistance to slow down the flow of electrons (amps). Also smaller wires and smaller electrical motors too, for example will use less amps. Only so many electrons can squeeze thru a small wire. If too many try to slam thru a small wire it’ll get hot and melt. By using wires to control and direct the flow of rushing electrons we can move them safely. If we get a “ short”and too many electrons jump to ground via a “short-cut” back to the battery a fuse will melt, (if one is used in the circuit) Rendering the circuit dead. Then there’s no further electron flow. However most old cars have too few or no fuses. The old cloth wiring eventually erodes and turns to thread. Wires that are not properly secured can vibrate and rub, then rub the outer insulation off, exposing the core wires. Imagine that exposed wire, now touching the metal car frame, giving the moving electrons a free quick path back to the other battery post. Via the frame. Maybe no fuse is used. Now electrons are lovin’ life! Moving at will with no barriers or other restrictions, back to the other battery post. Moving at the speed of light, these pesky electrons create heat, fast. Real fast. Wire insulation then melts & catches on fire. With no fuse to stop the flow, flames quickly appear. Easily engulfing your old car as it burns to the ground. If you install a battery shut-off switch it has the same effect as removing 1 battery cable from the battery post. You stop the path of electron flow. Nowhere for them to go. No possible short to create a fire. Stay tuned for a watered down story about 6v vs 12v versus 24v systems!
  7. Brand new, never installed. MADE IN THE USA. Spectra Premium SP1280MP mechanical fuel pump. In original packing with mounting gasket. Fit most all 1956 and many 1955 V8 Mopar engines. See here to check fitment: https://ecat.spectrapremium.com/products/SP1280MP New these are $116 USD new on Ebay, plus shipping. How about $75 USD shipped in Con USA or Canada? Paypal payment preferred.
  8. Welcome. A 1930 Desoto! You’ll fit in just fine here. Be sure to visit the. Chrysler Corp section here, often. I poke in there and the related marquis groups, oh several times every day. Straight 8 Mopars seem hard to find around my parts. I’ve yet to get up close and personal to one, at a car shown even.
  9. Great car! It defines the word rare. 1 of only 2 made, and it survived...Wow. Sorry I can't help you with any history of it. There are some interesting things to see on the car. Those high tail lamps are sure different. I am somewhat surprised that they'd put hub caps on a limo. I would have expected factory order optional wire spoke rims maybe?
  10. Buy China Bomb tires and you are sure to increase your chances of side wall bulges. As well as other tire ailments.
  11. I called the seller on this. Interested. Back in March or April. I asked a few questions. It is located too far away for me. Common sense prevailed. I am a little surprised it is taking so long to sell this fine Imperial model. I guess it may reflect the current state of the old car hobby/market.
  12. I referenced my 1938 Chrysler Corporation preliminary parts book. Dated Jan 1 1938. There is no illustration for the hood and related parts. See pic here of parts listed in my book for “Hood Support”. The D8 Dodge, S5 Desoto, C18, C19, C20 Chryslers only show parts listed. Nothing for P5, P6 (my car) D9 or D10. I’m still learning the ways of these old Mopar parts books. Does preliminary refer to an “early, unfinished” edition? Perhaps a later parts book would be more complete?
  13. I went out to my shop to compare my ‘38 Plymouth. Seems like the Plymouth would have been different than the Dodge pic seen above. I don’t see remnants of a mount that may have been there.
  14. Welcome to the Plymouth club. I have a 1938 Plymouth 4 door sedan. Be sure to introduce yourself in the Plymouth section. I included a link below. There are lots of helpful people there. I am there daily checking in. See here: https://forums.aaca.org/forum/49-plymouth/ Pics of the car are a must! We love 'em. No matter what condition it is in. Mine's far from perfect but I sure do enjoy the hobby. I am making my car a little better every week. Here's a pic of mine.