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keithb7 last won the day on February 14

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About keithb7

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    Vintage Mopars.

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  1. Sorry about reviving an old thread. Can anyone here tell me a generic aftermarket part number for a 1928 inner axle seal? Will take outer seal number also is you know it.1928 Standard Six. Thanks.
  2. A tremendous amount of change has occurred in my 49 years on this planet. I imagine the folks older than me must blink their eyes, bewildered what has become of today’s world. It’s unbelievable. I agree with Matt and and Wayne. Being as this an auto group, I’ll comment on related. We’re often screwed each time we try to source new parts for our old cars. So much cheap junk Is provided that works half the time. When it does work, it might work for a little while. Yet the parts used before it, may have been original and well over 50, or even 80 plus years old. Honesty and integrity seems to mean little these days for sure.
  3. Two years ago we had to move in snowy January. I had one of my old cars towed to our new home. I assisted with the load up. I followed the car the entire route. I was there and assisted with the unload. I proceeded to drive it directly into its new home, my garage. I paid and tipped the driver. The car never left my sight. I know this is not possible for everyone. Just thought I would contribute to the thread and post a pic, 'cause everyone loves a pic or two. That's quite an awful story at that start of this thread. Despicable.
  4. I did find it is challenging, and not necessary to actually turn the tappet nuts to adjust while the engine is running. It's difficult as wrenches bounce up and down with the tappet opening and closing. Get the car good and hot. Get your feeler gauge in there while it is running. Make note of which ones are out. Too tight or too loose. Then turn off the engine. Make a few quick adjustment as needed, using your feeler gauge. Fire up the engine again and see if you can get your feeler gauge back in there. Too tight, it will not go in while the engine is running. Too loose you will hear ticking when you slide it back out. A good, proper setting will want to pull in the feeler gauge just a little bit, nicely each time the tappet rises, as the engine is running. My understanding is this is because the tappets are shaped so they want to twist and turn on the cam lobe each and every time they lift. This helps with good even tappet wear. This twisting, torsional force will want to pull in the feeler gauge. You'll feel it when you have it right. It'll go in easily when the engine is running and start tugging the feeler gauge inward. With the hot running engine, the properly set tappet will remain quiet when your feeler is pulled out, and you'll have it bang on.
  5. Oh boy. That's a beauty. Congrats on owning that one! I can't comment on the carb much. If it is like the '28 Dodge that I sometimes work on, I suspect you have an updraft carb? I have a lot of info for the 28 Dodge. I suspect a lot of it will apply to your Plymouth. Tons of info here in this link. I stored this on my Google drive and its sharable. After a quick glance I see tons of info in book 3 on carbs. Also book 5 section H.
  6. @skyler no problem. Contact me any time. I do enjoy helping others with these old Mopars. When you get in to adjust your brakes, definitely let me know how you’re doing. I got mine dialed in really good.
  7. Forgot to mention that if you have a valve that is not sealing, a couple of things can happen. If intake, when on compression stroke the spark plug fires. Explosive burning gases can enter back into the intake manifold and sound like a back fire, however up through the carb intake. Additionally, assume an exhaust valve is not sealing properly. On compression stroke the raw unburned air/fuel mixture can be pushed into your exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. Then at TDC the spark plug fires, creating an explosion in the cylinder. It is not a controlled explosion and volatile fuel is also in the exhaust system and the exhaust valve is not closing properly. The fire travels into the exhaust and explodes in their shooting an explosion out through the tail pipe.
  8. My understanding is, exhaust valves burn. Not intake valves. Every time the cylinder draws in fresh cool air over the intake valve it cools the valve down. The exhaust valve does not get that luxury. The teeny amount of time that the exhaust valves are closed on their seats, is the most cooling they get. Super heated air moves across the exhaust valve when it is open and allowing exhaust gasses through, keeping it hot. As valves wear, the seat area doesn't line up well any more. The seats can't transfer heat from the valve into the cooler valve seat. Their contact area becomes smaller and smaller as they wear. Additionally as the valve wears down into the seat deeper, valve lash becomes tighter and tighter. The valve lash setting is very important to maintain for this very reason. As valve lash decreases, the time that the valve remains on its seat, able to cool, becomes less and less. The valve gets so hot eventually that yes, parts of the metal valve flute will burn away. If you hear popping noise up through the carb, you more likely have an intake valve problem. And I doubt an intake valve is burnt. Additional to all this, #6 cylinder runs hotter than all the others. It is the furthest away from the cooler water from the water pump. The water from the water pump must travel through the entire length of the cylinder head, getting hotter each inch it passes. Finally reaching #6 cylinder. Another important factor contributing to proper valve lash maintenance. All this is pretty preventable, with good valve last maintenance. I have indeed done a valve grind, by hand in my 1953 flat head 265 CI engine. It can be done. I sourced a hand cutter for the valve seats. I leaned over the fenders and hand cut every seat. I purchased all new valves and lapped them in. I checked sealing with both visual clues after lapping, and I used kerosene to look for leaks. I had 2 dead cylinders. #5 and #6 when I bought my car. All was brought back to proper compression and the car has run great ever since. The only complaint is, I was under a time crunch, and I did not replace all the valve guides. I should have. 1 and 2 cylinder had a little excessive guide wear. Now descending a long hill, they pull in a little oil and it will blow some blue smoke out the exhaust. Only on a long down hill. A ring job can be a can of worms. The oil pan must come off. Rod caps removed. Pistons, with rods pushed up through the top and out of the cylinders. De-carbon, clean pistons. Hone cylinder walls. Assemble with new rings and button all back up. You may very well find cylinder wall scoring or a ridge at the top edge of your cylinder. Then that will need to be addressed. Here are a few pics of my valve grind. It was worth the effort and very rewarding. 2 dead cylinders seen here in the pic, #5 and #6. . See dark worn exhaust valve pic. Very poor contact sealing area here. Silver new valve with duller center strip area after lapping, showing good even seat contact. My seat cutting tool is seen. The stellite exhaust valve inserts are very hard, but can be cleaned up with determination and stubborn efforts. Last pic of copper head gasket is when I am ready to button it up. All compression back up between 95 and 100 psi.
  9. It is a good book. I also own a copy. A great read for any old Mopar lover.
  10. I bought the small threaded puller this morning and got the pilot bushing out in minutes. The right tool....All the difference. Yes, there is some wear. I can feel it when I put it on the pinion, and compare it to the new bushing. Glad I went head and did this.
  11. Additionally, I did some research on bell housing alignment. I think I have a spare input pinion that I can insert into the pilot hole. Then attach my dial indicator to it. Then I can measure the pinion alignment to the bell housing. Maybe. We'll see what I can mock up. The car does have a 1953 228 engine in it, so mis-alignment could really be a possibility. I did use a telescopic bore gauge and a 0-1" micrometer to measure pilot bushing bore wear on the bushing in my crank now. Compared to a brand new bushing I measured about .005 to .007 of wear. Not sure that's an issue, or enough to warrant replacing the bushing. I'll replace it anyway so I now it's good.
  12. My wife gets a brand new compact fuel efficient, easy to park car. I drive a1938 Plymouth, a 1953 Chrysler, and 1998 Dodge truck. I am not interested in having her car in my garage needing my time. I am too busy having fun looking after my vehicles. I take care of the maintenance her car needs, and it's not much. Purchased brand new in 2016, it's been a real easy car to own. Saying that, when it's wore out and due for replacement, I think I will try to find her a low milage 2 year old car maybe. Less depreciation and less money out up front.
  13. Thanks @Bloo. I ordered new clutch gear (synchromesh) today. I spent a little more time understanding how it works. The square brass pieces seen in my synchro pic above are wearing thin. They engage the cone. The thinner brass I suspect is not lining up the two gears to the right speeds. Won't hurt to change it. It is 82 years old I figure. I do want to change the pilot bushing while I have it apart. I have a spare 218 crank here with the pilot bushing still in it. I decided to take a practice run with it today. I tried packing the hole with grease and inserting a tight fitting drift. Hitting it with a hammer, hoping hydraulic pressure would push the pilot bearing out from behind. Not so. It would not work. Had the drift turned on a lathe. Cut a groove for a tight fitting o-ring as well to help maintain pressure of the grease. No go. The bushing would not come out. I resorted to my set if mini files. I cut through the bushing. Then the "grease and drift method" was able to get the bushing out. I'm not sure I want to do that to my crank in the car. Hoping I can get a smaller pilot bearing puller in there, as the engine & bell housing sit in the car, with the tranny & clutch out.