Jump to content

keithb7

Members
  • Content Count

    944
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

keithb7 last won the day on February 14 2020

keithb7 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,267 Excellent

2 Followers

About keithb7

  • Rank
    Gaining Experience!
  • Birthday 01/01/1900

Profile Information

  • Location
    Western Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

2,600 profile views
  1. The one I sorta find funny is “What’s the fuel economy?” I really don’t know. I really don’t care. How can you put a price on what fuel costs are per mile, to drive the car you put all your blood sweat and tears into? Totally irrelevant. A better question might be “How much does shipping cost every time you need a replacement part?”...Sigh. Way too much.
  2. Yet another Sunday afternoon in the shop with my '38...I sure enjoy being able to do this.
  3. Electric cars...Meh. They’re still all part of eating up this planet. We’ve had a good run. Those alive to actively participate in this forum have had it pretty darn great on this planet. I’m not a big fan of the electric car. I’m not convinced its the answer. Look up Cobalt Mining in Africa. Its needed for battery production. Where does plastic come from? I believe refined oil. Copper wire for all those Tesla drive motors? Mining. Electricity. Where’s it coming from? Nuclear and Hydro seem to be the majority producers. Damming and flooding valleys for more hydro power? Boy that’s a t
  4. Sorry I misread your post about setting them cold. Have you insured the piston is at TDC, compression stroke for each pair of valves? I will wiggle the tappets to double check. This ensures both valves are fully closed. By wiggling I can then feel the tappet clearance as the camshaft ramp is fully backed off the tappet. Then I proceed to set that pair of valves. Turn the crank 120 degrees and do the next set. And so on, progressing thru each cylinder's valve pairing . Following the order of 1 5 3 6 2 4. If you still get ticking you may have other problems.
  5. I’ve had good luck setting them cold too. Maybe consider that? Let it cool overnight. Set them at .002” wider than the spec listed. I had success with my ‘38 doing it that way.
  6. I have a 1949 Canadian Mopar service manual here. I can view schematics of 1949 C45 and C46 models. The circuits are different as the C46 seems to have more bells and whistles. Including electric door locks, and electric convertible motor. The C45 has one 3 amp window wiper motor circuit breaker and another circuit breaker (amp rating unspecified in the schematic) for the entire lighting circuit. It's right off the ammeter, then on to both the live wired lights, (door jamb interior lamps, brake lamps), and also headlamp switch controlled lights. The C46 has an 8 amp c
  7. As time moves on and automobiles keep changing, my old '38 Plymouth seems to get better and better to me somehow.
  8. Left side of bumper sticker read “Passing Side”. Right side read “Suicide”. Another one I saw, left read “El Paso”. The right side “El Crasho”.
  9. Today I put some quality time into the rad nose cone. Grinding and drilling out very rusty, seized 83 year old hardware. Got it all out! Using a hammer and dolly I beat old damage straight again. It should be a lot easier to reinstall hopefully.
  10. I have a ‘38 Plymouth. For reasons mentioned here, my recent brand-new bias tires were blackwall. Never once did I consider WW tires for my ‘38 car. My Plymouth, the cheapest of the Mopar line up. Now, my ‘53 Chrysler? Absolutely. Wide whitewalls. Spare tires got me thinking. By the mid- 30’s were flats still a very common thing? I could see flats being a major problem for early horseless carriages. There were horses losing shoes and nails everywhere on roads. I just cannot imagine WW tires on this car.
  11. Before I took my 1953 engine apart I took a photo and scribed the distributor housing. To ensure I reassemble it properly. Your oil pump drive tab will need to be indexed to match this position. So that the tang that drives the distributor, lines the rotor up in the position seen here.
  12. Matt, I am unsure of your laws in the USA. Do you have a sales document with all the fine print that the purchaser signs when he/she buys a new car? The customer signs it, you are protected. If the buyer refuses to read it, that's his fault. If indeed you see common things in the vintage car sales industry that keep re-appearing, you point them out and have that discussion with the buyer. Up-front you are warning him politely that as a buyer, if he does not do his research and comes up in a bind, it's not your problem. Where does it end? Where do you draw the line on holding buy
  13. After some research I was able to determine that there was good chance that the Gemmer steerting gearbox in my 38 Plymouth, would contain the same parts used in a same period Ford. The housings and design of the Ford and Plymouth Gemmer steering gearboxes are likely different, however I estimated, "Why would the same company redesign all the internal wearing parts?" Indeed they did not redesign all the internal parts. I ordered my Plymouth steering gears parts from an old Ford cars parts business. The bearings are Timken so good quality. The company I bought from had good selection
  14. Excellent responses. Thank you everyone. I am enlightened.
  15. According to my Hollander interchange '35-'37 Airflow 8 same differential. Also same as '37-'39 Dodge truck differential. Ring gears, pinions, '34-'37 Airflow same. Dodge truck '37. MD15 ,16, 20,21. ME20, 21,22, 3/4T-1T. Dodge Truck '39 TD20, 21 Good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...