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keithb7 last won the day on December 4 2023

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About keithb7

  • Birthday 01/01/1971

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  1. It more about the steep 12% grade winding hill. About 2 miles long. Single lane each direction. No shoulder. People rip up and down. A model T would be pretty slow up that grade. I might even have go up in reverse now and then. Lol.
  2. The added drama in the title is the way the world is these days. It generates more clicks and viewers. This added drama is a bit annoying at times. I can see how the very first time you get behind the wheel of a 100 yr old car can feel very weird. Odd. Different things to do, adjust, tweak. Things are missing. Especially if you have very little to no knowledge of automotive systems. Like gear synchros. Vacuum and mechanical spark advance. An electric starting motor. Generators. Turn signals. Etc. They don’t understand or comprehend the timeline and all the inventions to get to all these convenient features. Distributor? Points? Carburetor? Really? Most Gen-Xers would not know of these items. I’m 53. I hope to get back even further to a Model T someday. Owning one is a dream of mine. Someday. Perhaps when I relocate down off this mountain. Living on flat valley bottom where speeding modern vehicles aren’t whipping around blind corners.
  3. You can make your own brake adjustment tool. I did. A few video on the topic can be seen. Search for “Mopar brake adjustment tool keith’s garage” on you tube. That’s my channel. Lots of help on there for you. Keith
  4. I’m not in the big leagues. I figuratively play ball in a local beer league. Its fun to keep my cars going. It’s great fun to drive them and meet new people. I’ve learned so much. When I’m feeling brave someday, I might actually tackle bodywork and paint. I already know I’ll be great at making a mess of it. My ‘38 Plymouth is now reliable and safe. I drive it often. I’ve pretty-much run out of talent. I’ve exercised all my skill sets here at home. Bodywork , paint and upholstery are not on my list of skills. Yet I may still give it a go. Trophies are not on my radar. Having fun and feeling good about my work is the goal. In time, we shall see how far I’ll go. The going shop rate rate here is measured by motivation. It comes and goes.
  5. I tried to stand in the exact same spot. I estimate about 100 years apart. Looking at the early cars am in the right period? 1924-ish? Thx. White Rock beach, BC Canada
  6. A good way to get rid of anything in the block to remove the lower block plugs near the distributor and rinse everything out. Install new plugs.
  7. Thanks Neil. @GAER I recommend you watch some of my YouTube Instructional videos. Some feature my ‘53 Chrysler Windsor, my ‘38!Plymouth, or my ‘38 Chrysler Royal. They are all very similar. Most all of the knowledge you pick up is shared between all cars. I don’t know enough detail about your engine to make specific suggestions. In general there can be tons of sediment in the block. Open your block drain spout. Does coolant flow out? Consider removing your rad and sending it to a rad shop for a good internal cleaning. Some videos here:
  8. HI folks, for sale is a brand new, complete fuel pump kit. I ordered it in error from Then & Now Automotive. New price is $5-9.50 US Funds plus shipping. How about $45 US Funds including pre-paid shipping within Canada or the USA? Paypal preferred. I am in Canada Thx. Keith It fits the following Mopar models: Chrysler:1936 6 cyl, 1937 C16, 1938 C18, w/ overdrive Desoto 1937-38 S3,S5 Overdrive, 1939 S6,RHD Dodge: 1937-1938 D5,D8 Overdrive, 1939 D11 RHD, Swinging windshield Plymouth: 1937-1938 P3,P4,P5,P6 1939 P7,P8, 1940 P9,P10,P15
  9. I don’t use my 240 buzz box welder enough. I’m working on a 1970 Chevelle. Been in a barn for 15-20 years. Snapped off a bolt while taking off the thermostat housing. I know I can weld a nut to it. Then turn it out. Yet, safely with confidence? Hmm. Think it thru. Take all safety measures into consideration. Stick weld. Let’s try negative anode. 70 amps. See how it goes. I don’t want to blow anything apart. Nope, no good. i’ll try positive anode. Turn it up to 85 amps. Just beautiful. Nice flow. I could hear it. Much better. Success! Broken bolt came out like butter. Sometimes its the small things. I love good heat on seized rusty bolt. I need to start a welding log so I can reference it next time.
  10. I think I do alright. Re-saeled more than a few valves. Rebulit a couple valve train systems. Rebuilt a flathead engine. I really feel that a person attempts to seal valves, new or otherwise, you must confirm they are sealed. Each and every one of them. I like to test by ensuring each seat will not allow liquid to pass. Kerosene, solvent, diesel, whatever. A cylinder leak-down test at TDC works too. Never assume valves are sealing just because you had the seats cut and new valves installed. Do not cut corners to re-use guides or springs. You’re that far in. New springs and guides are cheap.
  11. I tend to connect the black Pertronix wire to the bottom of my shop garbage can.
  12. How did the axle shaft come out? I suspect you had the brake backing plate mounting bolts removed? I’d put the axle shaft back in. Re-install backing plate and bolts and pull that hub off the axle. Sure will be easier and do-able with the axle mounted back in place. Maybe my next video will help you?
  13. Sounds like most of this has been sorted. I wanted to chip in and talk about shoe adjustment. If the shoes are set nice and close to the drum, they can impede drum removal. To remove any doubt, you can back off the minor brake shoe adjustment cam bolt. Half way up each side of the rear backing plate. I think they take a 3/4” wrench? Turning the bolts so the wrench is moving up towards the car’s engine hood, (both bolts) loosens shoe to drum clearance. Turning the bolts so the wrench is travelling down towards the ground (both bolts) tightens-up shoe to drum clearance. By backing off the brake shoes, you then know the shoes are not contributing to impeding drum removal. I agree, the hub is supposed to live on the drum. Here are couple of pics of a spare drum I have here. -Keith
  14. A master cylinder kit is not expensive. Just measure the bore of your cylinder to ensure you get the correct kit. Just because you see another Mopar master cylinder that looks just like yours, it could have a different bore. I learned this the hard way. The original Mopar manuals that I have seem to miss the position of 1 rubber washer. It is seen in this image from my Motors Manual. Far left here, valve seat. Thank you to folks who are recommending my You Tube Channel. Its purpose is to help others with their old Mopars. https://youtube.com/@keithsgarage5831?si=0NPxciG-BsXeoUkF I have salvaged questionable looking master and wheel cylinders. A little elbow grease and emery cloth can usually get them sealed and working again. - Keith
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