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Studeous

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  1. The diagram is not clearly drawn. The A wire leaves the generator probably thru the little box on top that is probably the cutout relay, or usually just called the cutout. That device disconnects the GENERATOR from the battery when the voltage leaving generator falls below a low value. So the battery wont run down and or cook the generator when engine is not running. The A wire connects to the left side of ammeter, and not shown on diagram connects to right side terminal of ammeter. (All current flows thru the ammeter). Wire 5 (I think its a 5) leaves there and ties into terminal on
  2. Another British tell-tale would be a relentless oil drip when stationary.
  3. No experience with ross boxes but I do like the lace job on the regulator wire loom.....Is that period correct? Reminds me of lace jobs on old and ancient western electric apparatus. Is that a stainless firewall? Nice work on the car. I do enjoy your posts. Thank you.
  4. Impressive job. Good post. May I say, she aint slick, but she is a bronze beauty. Happy motoring in the lone star state, pardner. Oops. Meant to say sleek not slick. She is VERY slick!
  5. Might I suggest a shiny new plug for #2. And a substitute wire for same. Perchance the plugs and or wires got jumbled when swapping? You know, “in all the excitement, I lost count” kind of deal. Good luck cause you covered about anything else.
  6. This is a case for Gus....
  7. Well in any case another sleek black beauty (to qoute Click n Clack).
  8. Remember those, since you mentioned it. Thanks! In high school I craved a brown delco remy distributer cap for my 55 chevy. Never did get one. Dont remember if too expensive or too hard to find........or I just didn’t know how to find one.
  9. So I’m sitting here thinkn anybody knows the caps are all the same. I love it when I learn something new. Seems that happens on this forum a lot. Thanks! Where does a body find such an unusual part?
  10. That appears to be a manufacturing defect. Return it to the service station where it was purchased. And be sure they wipe your windshield after they adjust the tire. And apologize for the trouble. 😉
  11. Might I suggest a product called “leak-loc” or is it leak-lock ? Made by maybe LISLE company? Sorry, brane is reformatting right now. Old time refrigeration techs like me depended on it to solve leaks at joints that nothing else would solve. Clean the joint pieces well with solvent to degrease and dont get any inside the line. Amazon or ebay might have some. Or most refrigeration supply houses will sell to a regular walkin around guy an item like that on a cash account basis. Used to come in a small tube or a family size brush in the lid jar. I hope this helps. And smooth sailin in yo
  12. You mentioned it acted up from one season, or time of year, from another. Might I suggest it could be a fuel problem? In our climate in Texas, the gasoline formula changes seasonally. Sometimes in the carb days of yore engines would vapor lock in spring because the fuel blended for the cooler weather (more violitile- lower vapor pressure point) would boil off in the lines and or the carb bowl because of the higher temperatures at that time of year. Good luck with your problem.
  13. Indeed. Deserves at the least a mention at the annual Darwin Awards banquet.
  14. This is a common problem with these abs systems. Find a competent shop with a scan tool that can sequence (exercise) the abs system. This is necessary to eleminate all the air. I bought a suburban, well maintained and cared for, the neighbor I got it from said it has always had a low pedal. They tell me thats normal on these trucks. After getting the system bled with a scanner it was better- not as soft but still kinda low pedal. Harking back to oldentimes I put a good tight shoe adjustment on the rear drums and that improved the pedal height a bunch. It wasnt a high firm pedal but it was a
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