JayG

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About JayG

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  1. I have some parts from a 1935 Buick 57. May also fit 1934. Some pics but I have more mechanical parts. The Grille Shell is rusted at the bottom. The rest is solid. Maybe someone has a crumpled shell with a nice donor bottom to graft on. The bumper has no finish left on it. It's straight and has the center hole cover, guards, ends and mounting bracket. I also show a pair of engine pans. The drivers side is nice with one pin hole. The front section was not good but that screws to this pan. The passenger side is rusted away in the front but there's enough there to use and fix the missing sheet metal. I have a bunch of other parts mostly mechanical and suspension including a Rear End, Transmission, Engine, Radiator and steel hoses(bottom tank rusted out), Front Fender Brackets, Inner Fenders, Steering box, front and rear shocks that would need severe soaking and other odds and ends. Parts are located in CT PM with interest and reasonable offers .
  2. I spoke with the owner today. Wants big bucks for the drivetrain parts. The car was a 1 owner car that was purchased new by his buddy's grandfather. Garage kept all its' life until the buddy got it left it stored outside for 8 years. As a result the wood is toast. The current owner bought it from the buddy and is most likely going to use steel in place of the wood. So - as much as I hate to see it go the street rod route this is probably the only way it's going to live on.
  3. Guys. It would be nice if the pics could be posted here. They may help someone else out.
  4. PM sent with better pics and some dimensions.
  5. Here's some pics of the Buick axle. It's about 50 1/2 inches to centers of spindle bolts and 26 1/2 to centers of springs. Crusty dirt and grease will cleanup. .
  6. I have a 31 series 50 Buick front axle. Maybe someone can tell you if they interchange. I don't have any manuals to know.
  7. Here are the round connectors and the light connectors. You can get single or double contact.
  8. Best thing is to duplicate what is there (assuming it's there and original). I tried to do that with my 25. Myer's has the wire you just need to determine what colors you need where. I also re-used the round connectors by soldering onto the new wires. You can but the correct bakelite light connectors too. Good luck!!
  9. Is the tank full of crud? If so maybe the cork float is buried in it. Otherwise the entire mechanism should lift out.
  10. The reason I thought they were BB is I got them when I purchased a AA some years back. There was this set and another set of Dually fenders. The duallys had factory stenciling inside stating 33/34 Ford and the wheelbase. They were roughly the same size as these singles. If anyone can help identify what they fit I'd appreciate it.
  11. You can slide it in on a slight angle but will need to straighten it out as much as possible to get it to slide in place. There is almost no clearance to drop down behind the crossmember. It's tight. The front tube will slide in and there is a plate that hold it in place. Hopefully you have it. There's about an in to inch and a half between the front of the engine and the front vertical of the crossmember. The pics are dark but I hope they help.
  12. They say it shouldn't be done that way but I installed mine from the front just as you describe. Be careful that it is lined up straight and the pilot shaft will not bind the bearing. I assume the radiator is off as there rally isn't a lot of wiggle room. Good luck.