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About 22touring

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  1. Not to disagree with any of the foregoing because the guys who've already replied to you are entirely correct, but I believe the correct green engine color for a '23 is DuPont DuLux 83503 - 1958 Peugeot green. Check out this thread: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/44755-engine-color/
  2. nearchoc, your post made me realize that I need to re-join the national DB club. For some reason I let my membership lapse some time ago (probably because my restoration stalled). That was a mistake. Now that I'm back into that resto, I need to read those articles you're referring to!
  3. nearchoc said: "The body shop I had do my work said to always use a self etch primer." I do recognize nearchoc's expertise, but don't the product data sheets say you shouldn't spray self-etch over freshly-blasted or prepared steel? Doesn't self-etch need some rust to react with, or else it doesn't adhere properly? The body shop I go to says you should spray epoxy primer over freshly-prepared steel because it prevents rusting better in that situation than self-etch does, FWIW.
  4. Borough Essex, I also have a 1922 model. There are two series of 1922 DBs: early and late. The model changeover occurred in July of 1922. The late series '22 is quite recognizable because it has a taller radiator and cowl than the early series had. Here are some references you might want to obtain: "Book of Information - Dodge Brothers Motor Vehicles" - the factory instruction manual. Lots of theory of operation and repair information. I am not aware of any reprints, but it is available on eBay. Try to get one for, or close to, your model year. "Mechanics' Instru
  5. I have had good luck brazing cracked exhaust manifolds, although I know some people say you shouldn't.
  6. Rodger, of course I do recognize you as a DB expert of renown, but may I suggest that the top saddles became optional equipment earlier than '24. Jim Mallars (RIP) said his dad told him it happened in late '21 or '22, as a result of the 1921 recession. As with many things DB, apparently changes were phased in over a period of time. My '22 touring (manufactured in late November of 1922), which seemed to be rather original, had no saddles and had the factory cover plates and bolts installed instead. Edit: I looked it up in the 1928 Master Parts List. The top rests were standard
  7. I don't believe that anyone has mentioned LUB 164 1500W oil, which is also sold by the same restoration supply companies. I have had good results with it: much less grinding and clashing of gears than with the 180W I had been using.
  8. Yes, that would be easier than building a fixture to hold it, I must admit. It is probably just that I am emotionally invested in the idea of building such a fixture because I recently obtained the tools and materials necessary to make one and to attach it to the concrete floor. I'd like to hear any other suggestions, though.
  9. I'm trying to straighten the passenger-side front fender on my 1922 touring car. The front of it got pushed back, and I need to pull it forward. That chrome vanadium steel requires a lot of force to pull it, so I need to bolt the fender securely to a fixture in order to do it successfully. I would very much appreciate hearing about fixtures that you have made or used, or that you think would serve, to hold a DB front fender for body work. I'm just not at all clear about what kind of fixture to construct. Thank you.
  10. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the Screen Side would have used the same license plate support, going across the spare tire mount, as the rest of the DB lineup used. In the attached picture of the rear of my pretty original and correct '22 touring, the stop light (that the state of California first required in 1924, and which the original owner added at that time) is the red one below the yellow running light in the official Dodge Bros. accessory rear light enclosure. Another accessory, aftermarket "stop" light is mounted below the factory stop light because it better grabbed your attention.
  11. Mark, I think the rear axle ratio was 4.166:1. It looks from the Master Parts List like the so-called "2nd series Kelsey rims" were the first to have all-steel felloes, and that DB stopped using wood felloes in January of 1920, beginning at car no. 434412, until they switched over to the 2nd series Kelsey rims completely at car no. 436468. I could be wrong about this because I am going strictly based on the pictures of the cross-sections of the felloes in the Master Parts List, but if I am then I'm sure that somebody will chime in and correct me. Wood spoke wheels were
  12. knobless, I don't think there are any holes to run the rod through. I would have to destroy some pretty nice paint work if I were to weld in braces or drill holes for rods. How about this: install the doors and hold them closed with large, soft-jawed pipe clamps. Wouldn't the doors brace the body OK while I lift it off the frame?
  13. I was hoping that you folks would be willing to tell me the best way to brace the door openings on my '22 touring car when I remove the body from the frame. I would appreciate any advice you might have for, hopefully, a simple and elegant way to do it. Thanks very much
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