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  1. Thanks very much for all the great help, suggestions and pictures!
  2. .04", or 40 thouandths, gap, so that is not the problem. Must be wrong wire feed rate, wrong current or wrong amount of gas. What would cause my welds to be all burnt out in the center and black around the edges?
  3. For my first practice welds on the 20-gauge, which turned out badly, I held the two pieces of metal together with butt weld clamps at a .40" gap. Is that too far apart? I'm wondering if that is part of the problem. Correction: The data sheet for the clamps says .4 inches, but that's impossible, so they must mean .040", or a 25th of an inch! I'll measure the gap and report back.
  4. Nobody in my home town had any 18-gauge or 20-gauge cold rolled, so I had to travel to the industrial outskirts of Sacramento in order to buy some from Metal Mart. I think that is probably because the local body shops fix rust holes by stuffing them full of steel wool and applying fiberglass over them, so they don't need to be buyin' no stinkin' sheet metal. The 18-gauge seems noticeably thicker than the steel that was used in my DB, and the 20-gauge is close but maybe a little bit thinner. I think I am going to use the 20-gauge to repair the cowl. I'll bet 19-gauge would be perfect, as Mattml430 said, but Metal Mart didn't have any of that. My MIG welder came set up for "no gas" use, with flux-cored .030-diameter wire, and I had to convert it over to the solid .022 wire and to use carbon dioxide as the shielding gas. You would think converting it over would be easy, but there were a surprising number of niggling little details which required multiple trips to the hardware store for brass compression fittings, buying new contact tips, etc. Also, buying an inert gas cylinder, regulator, flow meter and a new roll of wire was pretty expensive. All in all, it was more difficult and expensive to convert it to gas use than I thought it was going to be, but I think it had to be done. Trying to MIG weld sheet metal with flux-core wire just creates too much heat, don't you think? I can see why they sell you the welder set up for "no gas" use, though. The price of admission is much lower that way.
  5. "LOL", as they say these days! I had forgotten (or more likely repressed) how I had stuffed fiberglass into the hole when I did a half-vast restoration in the mid-'80s. So now we are going to find out how well paint stripper will remove fiberglass.
  6. Will you at least be able to receive some compensation for the damage by filing a claim against the other driver's insurance?
  7. With the old, non-standard shift transmission like your uncle has (but without the abnormal wear), you can either get used to the second-gear noise or do a complete rebuild to try to get rid of it. I got used to it. LUB164 is a good oil to use. When the transmission was re-designed in 1927 to adopt the standard shift pattern, it was built much beefier and had no noise problems.
  8. I certainly would appreciate receiving any advice or suggestions that my fellow Dodge brothers might have about the correct way to repair rust-outs at the bottom of the cowl, where it meets the bottom of the body. Thank you kindly.
  9. I find it strange that the body of the Porsche 356 that I am also restoring is also made from 18 gauge sheet metal because I have found that it is much harder to move the sheet metal on the DB than on the Porsche. Is that perhaps because the Bros. used chrome vanadium steel in their body?
  10. Oops, thanks, JayG. I was using inches rather than mm.
  11. Would anybody know from what gauge of sheet metal the tub of my 4-cylinder touring car was originally made? My only means of measurement is a digital caliper, which isn't really too accurate. Thanks. retroguy
  12. Art, I thought that the pinion gear and rack on the Stewart carburetor, which you seem to be referring to as an idle adjustment, actually lifts the air valve and thereby controls not only the idle mixture, but also the main mixture. If anyone disagrees, please correct me. Is your air valve not lifting enough, or too much, for some reason? Has it perhaps become detached from the rack, making proper adjustment impossible? I think that originally the air valve was only swaged onto the rack, and it will come loose after many years. I had to solder mine back onto the rack. At first glance to the uninitiated, who may not be clear on the carb's theory of operation, when the air valve and rack become separated it is not obvious that they need to be firmly attached to each other.
  13. Not to disagree with any of the foregoing because the guys who've already replied to you are entirely correct, but I believe the correct green engine color for a '23 is DuPont DuLux 83503 - 1958 Peugeot green. Check out this thread: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/44755-engine-color/
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