22touring

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About 22touring

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  • Location:
    Diamond Springs, CA
  • Interests:
    Road cycling, antique cars

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  1. The all-steel bodies of the early Screensides were built at the Edward G. Budd Manufacturing Co. in Philadelphia, PA.
  2. I have heard stories over the years (which may be apocryphal, but I tend to believe them) that you should not use a high-compression head on an early, 3-main-bearing, 4-cylinder DB engine. Here's an advertising brochure for the Roof OHV cylinder head for the DB 4-cylinder. I don't seem to be able to upload a legible copy, so here is a link to the legible version: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4yy5uptniyk3qee/Roof OHV clyinder head for DB brochure.jpg?dl=0
  3. The green engine color for 4-cylinder DB cars is DuPont DuLux 83503 - 1958 Peugeot green. Check out this thread, wherein the paint color code is provided by well-known DB authority Rodger "Dodger" Hartley. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/44755-engine-color/ Here's a copy of the DB body paint chart that was distributed by ROMAR quite a few years ago.
  4. thehandleman, I have a can of DB green engine paint in my barn, too. I think it was the Dupont brand, so the number should cross-reference easily. Do you want me to go fetch that can and get the code for you?
  5. "You need to use automotive paints not house paint." Right. I wasn't sure if you were painting your body or your wheels. Single-stage catalyzed urethane enamel would be correct for our cars. Unfortunately body shops seem to want to spray only 2-stage paints these days because their customers are too lazy to wax their cars.
  6. Mpgp1999, at first I wasn't sure if you wanted Postal Blue (aka Admiral Blue) paint for your wheels and spokes, or another shade of blue for the body of your car, but I guess you want the postal blue, huh? I would like to give you a rant about paint, if you don't mind. I hope I am not hijacking your thread. Many of the ingredients that make a paint cover well, be very durable and long-lasting are quite expensive. (For example, chromium dioxide. Have you priced having anything chromed recently?) All paint manufacturers except Sherwin-Williams mix their paints down to a price, using only the bare minimum of the expensive ingredients, so their products can be popularly-priced to sell in the big-box stores. S-W follows a different business model. They don't even try to sell their paint in Home Despot because they make the best paint they can make and then charge whatever it costs, and nobody who's looking for an economical price at the big-box store would buy it. Homeowners get sticker shock when they see prices like that because usually S-W paints cost about twice as much as supposedly-"equivalent" paint in other brands, but S-W paints cover in one coat and are very durable. That's why painters prefer to use S-W. On a big painting job, you save a lot more in labor costs than you lose by using the more expensive paint. Before I learned this, I hired a painter to paint the eaves and soffits on my barn. We agreed that I would provide the materials, and I bought Behr paint from Home Despot. When the painter arrived and saw the Behr paint, he remarked that it was too bad I had already bought it because he had meant to tell me to buy S-W because it would cover in one coat, while the Behr paint would take 2 or more coats. Since I couldn't return the paint, I told him to go ahead anyway. Sure enough, he had to apply 2 coats; even then it didn't cover very well; and my labor cost was twice what it would have been with S-W paint. I bought a quart can of S-W Postal Blue oil-based paint for my new spoked wheels and was very happy with it. Great coverage with one coat, and it still looks like new after 10 years. When you're only buying a quart, the price difference isn't that significant. Mpgp1999, would you like me to get you the paint code for S-W Postal Blue? I've got the can tucked away in the barn, and will pull it out for you if you need the code.
  7. 2-7/16" X 16 TPI. Check out this page of the "Resurrection of Daphne" thread and consider having George McMurtry make one for you. He does beautiful work.
  8. After maybe replacing the packing, get a small, cheap grease gun and a Zerk-to-Alemite adapter. Fill the grease gun with old-fashioned, wax-like, high-temp water pump grease (available from antique car suppliers). Loosen up the gland nuts a bit to make sure you get plenty of grease in there. Then shoot the gland nut area full of the special water pump grease through its Alemite fittings, until grease starts coming out around the shaft, before snugging up the gland nuts. Wipe off the excess grease and run the motor a bit before checking to make sure the gland nuts are still snug (the packing will compress). That should stop most leaks. If the leaking is reduced but still dripping, shoot more lube into the gland nuts, this time without loosening them first.
  9. Let me know if you'd like me to scan my copy for you.
  10. I apologize if I'm hijacking Mattml430's thread, but it seems like I've "always heard" that non-counterweighted crankshafts, like in our DBs, can't be balanced with the entire reciprocating assembly. But I'm not an expert on engine balancing, and I can't remember what the exact reason was, so is that correct? If it is not correct, could somebody explain to me why what I have "always heard" is wrong? Thanks a lot.
  11. Bear in mind that you must have exactly the correct top saddles or they won't work correctly.
  12. I do not like Nolan Sykes's videos because he is a real intellectual lightweight who knows a lot less than he claims to, and makes things up. He made a lot of historical mistakes with the DV v. Ford video. For example, Dodge Bros. never bought Ford, nor did they ever invest $10,000 in Ford.
  13. The old timers in the Dodge Bros. Club told me that when using an electric fuel pump with the Stewart carburetor, fuel pressure should be regulated down to 1.5 pounds. The Stewart was gravity-fed, and can't take very much fuel pressure. I discovered that struggling to get a vacuum tank working, and having to thoroughly learn its theory of operation in order to make it work, built character. My head is puffed up bigger than ever, and I'm a really proud DB owner now. I recommend it!
  14. Why in the world are you encouraging 30dodgedd6 to use this site as an ebay auction? The site is supposed to be about maintaining and restoring DB cars, not making a bunch of money off of emblems and incessantly and repetitively posting in order to do so. This shows a serious lack of class and good judgment, IMHO.
  15. I am going to say LUB164 (edit: as far as transmission oil is concerned). Check out this thread: