Terry Harper

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Terry Harper last won the day on December 22 2018

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About Terry Harper

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  • Birthday 11/13/1963

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  1. Alan, Here is a good start: http://www.kimmelsteam.com/ http://www.kimmelsteam.com/ofeldt-boilers.html If your a steam automobile nut be prepared to go down the rabbit hole for a long, long time! Best regards, Terry
  2. Alan, I believe I purchased the crush gaskets for the Wisconsin through Restoration Supply Co. T
  3. Great progress Joe! Interchangeable parts is all about tolerances and understanding that precision only needs to be where its needed to maintain design intent. There is no such thing as the perfect part. It only needs to fall within the specified minimum and maximum tolerance. I think a lot of the issues with the early automobile industry and interchangeability was mind set (small volume artisans) and the available tools and techniques of the day. Remember that the closets industry that approximated the precision required to manufacture a motor was probably the firearms industry with all its hand fitting. Blueprints and drafting standards including calling out tolerances and fits as well as precision measuring instruments were in their infancy. Today we take for granted Geometric Dimensions and Tolerances (GD&T) with those wonderful symbols and reference frames that tell us so much. I believe I read somewhere that machinists at Sharps Rifle didn't work from a set of prints but by taking measurements of a master model. Its amazing they produced what they produced so well. But then again it was a different age, different work ethic and economics.
  4. A few years ago I had the privilege of trying to hand crank my friend Don's big 18 liter Wisconsin T-head. There is no compression compression release. I could easily get it up on compression but swinging sharply that last little bit was beyond me. Don on the other hand who is somewhere between 6'-2" and 6'-6" and worked in the woods his whole life made it look easy! The other trick is with a battery setup is bringing it up on compression and hit the ignition. A good example of this technique is a video showing the "Beast of Turin" coming to life. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TV2l6TOuGA
  5. Hello Joe, The spalling on the cam lobes brings to mind one of the issues with the early Studebaker V8. Early on they had a lot of issues with damage to the cams. Part of it was lubrication but a large part was the increased contact load due to increased valve size and weight, and the need for rather stiff springs to keep the whole assembly in contact at high RPM. I wonder with the large heavy valves and hefty lifter assemblies used on these T-heads combined with poor heat treatment if that could be similar though at much lower RPM. On my engine the cams show just a bit of surface damage but the rollers are perfect.
  6. Hello Joe, That's an interesting design for the lifters. On the Wisconsin the slot in the lifter guide (that the roller rides in) keeps the lifter from rotating out of alignment with the face of the cam lobe. The brochure states that the cam lobes are heat treated, hardened, ground and keyed and pinned to the shaft. While the rollers and pins are "hardened steel". The lifter bodies are also hardened and the adjustment screws are case hardened and the top face ground. The pin is an interference fit. The top of the lifters are dished with an oil hole angled down to a hole bored completely through the axis of the lifter and threaded for the adjuster screws. An oil groove runs around the circumference of the lifter with an oil hole connecting to the center passage. The idea of the oil hole to the dished top is to provide a "oil mist" to lubricate the valve stems - these being enclosed with aluminum shrouds. The bearing bronze lifter guide also has oil grooves (around the inside circumference near the top of the bore and vertical) Anyway, not sure if this is useful or not! Best regards, Terry
  7. Hello Joe, From what I understand pickling removes any scale, flux residue ect. The solution recommended for brass is 10% sulphuric acid. However, there are some home grown solutions ranging from vinegar to lemon juice to alum. You will have a redish copper blush that can fairly easily be removed. Anyway, since my assembles are a combination of brass and bronze I am not sure if I can use sulphuric acid or not. There is also a vinegar and hydrogen peroxide pickle solution that supposedly removes the copper blush.... still studying this!
  8. Joe, Are you going to acid pickle the manifold to neutralize the flux?
  9. Joe that manifold looks most excellent! You have inspired me to get mine finished as soon as I have a few nice days to work outside. My plan is to mock-up the manifold using the cylinder blocks as the jig and solder it all up in place. That way I can ensure it fits properly since the mounting studs are not exactly perfect. The castings have been laying around on the work bench way too long!
  10. Joe, It looks great! Its obvious that this project is in good hands! Terry
  11. I know originality is a big plus but... installing a different engine such as the RD405 will get this wonderful beast out on the road. Who knows maybe down the road the correct Continental will turn-up. Meantime you can enjoy it!
  12. Awhile back I was asked if we could re-create some hardware for some large Vesta drum lights. This is the type of project my students and I live for. (I teach Drafting & Engineering Technology at a high school CTE center) Using the remains of the existing parts, several of my students worked to reverse engineer the components using Solidworks. We then 3D printed the parts to help verify that the modeled pieces were accurate and satisfied the design intent. At first I thought about 3D printing and casting new brass pieces using the "Lost PLA" method. This is a form of investment casting. However, since my foundry guy is several hours away and without a kiln handy we decided to try using our CNC milling machine. After importing the files into Fusion 360 to develop the setups, milling processes and tool paths and writing out to G-code this week we finally were able to test the setups and do a run through using machinable wax. Since the flange is curved to match the radius of the headlight we had to develop a fixture to hold the work piece during the second setup. To speed up the process we 3D printed the fixture which worked perfect! Today we ran it to see how it would all work. Other than a error on my part that resulted in the flange being too thin the wax part came out great! There will be two more setups - one to hold the piece while the hole for the hinge pin is drilled and bored and the other for milling the male and female cutouts. Here you can see the fixture Finished blank. The flange is too thin and the top is a bit truncated due to an error on my part that's easily corrected. Our students love these types of projects. In the CTE world we call them "Live work" projects. They give the students an opportunity to develop hands-on skills with the knowledge that the work is real and meaningful. It also allows us the opportunity to interface with the community and local industries. As an example, back in December our Farm Mechanic's and Building Trades students completed a set of heavy logging sleds for the Maine Forest & Logging Museum. The museum provided the lumber and a pile of original castings and fittings. A local equipment manufacturing firm donated time and materials to fabricate some of the missing pieces. All good fun!
  13. I am not familiar with Seagrave motors... however, my assumption is the valve guides are either screw-in or pressed in. I would replace them given the condition and the fact that they are all probably well worn from years of use. If they are pressed they can easily be pressed out. If they are threaded than I would suggest boring them out until the remaining shell is thin enough to break-up and remove. For material - that's a no-brainer - good old grey cast iron. While your at it I would look into either doing a complete re-build of the original valves (grind stems etc. and ream the new guides to compensate) or find or fabricate new valves. I went through this whole process a few years ago with a big 18 liter Wisconsin T-head. I had to replace all the valve guides and fabricate new valves. The valve guides we machined out of grey cast iron. Since I could not find replacement valves I ended-up using a wonderful set of blanks intended for EMD diesel locomotives. These were stainless bi-alloy (one alloy for the stem, another for the head). After turning the head to the proper 2-5/8" diameter, cutting the seat, keeper slots and to length they came out great! However, the original stems were .500" dia and the new stems were .577" dia. That wasn't a problem because we simply reamed the new valve guides to fit. I believe on the valve guides I held .002" clearance on the intake side and .003" on the exhaust. New valve guides Valve blank a received from Carl M. Cummings Manufacturing Turning to size and cutting the seats - we also used a tool post grinder on the seats as well. 12 new valves, 12 new valve guides all installed
  14. I fabricate core boxes. These are filled with core sand and once cured the cores are bonded together and placed in the mold and accurately positioned using the core prints. In this photo the patterns have already been rammed-up in the drag (lower half of the mold) - excuse me if I get these reversed! The drag has been flipped over and the other half of the patterns placed. Next the sand will be added and rammed-up to form the cope or top half of the mold. The pattern will be pulled and the gates, runners etc. will be cut. Then the patterns will be removed (pulled) and the cores set in place. In the photo below is a set of cores all cured and ready to be glued together. Here are the cores (coated with graphite) positioned in the drag (lower half of the mold). These particular pour was for the intake manifold. Here is the cope (top half) ready to be placed. You can clearly see the core prints that locate the cores as well as the runners, gates and shrink bob and vents cut. Here are the fresh castings with the cores knocked out. Ready for machining and polishing!
  15. I feel your pain in regards to SolidWorks. It doesn't seem as intuitive as Inventor. On the other hand there are some tasks that are easier. In regards to bondo and the top coat. Yes, generally all I am trying to do is fill any imperfections and mask the layering. Most of the bondo and first primer coat get sanded away in the process. The idea is to get a good finish on the pattern so it will pull cleanly from the mold. On my early wood patterns, in many instances I used a coat of shellac rubbed down with steel wool to seal and fill the wood before the finish coat. Below is a set for the valve shrouds for a Wisconsin model "A" in a 1917 FWD truck. For this set I imported the model into Fusion 360 to generate the tool paths then exported the G-code to Pathpilot for our CNC milling machine. Best regards, Terry Below, are the castings along with the original piece we used for reverse engineering.