Terry Harper

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Terry Harper last won the day on December 22 2018

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About Terry Harper

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  • Birthday 11/13/1963

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  1. Hello Steve, in regards to casting a new crankcase. It of course can be done and there are foundries that will cast it. as to cost. That all depends on how much of the work you have to pay someone else versus doing it yourself. It’s not rocket science but just takes thought, research, and a willingness to make mistakes. And... well time. being a crankcase (though without photos it’s hard to tell) the pattern work should be fairly straight forward. However, there is a considerable amount of time in reverse engineering. (Measurements, documentation etc) Before the patterns can be fabricated. For machining the finished castings, fits and tolerances have to be calculated and shop drawings developed. In hindsight the casting and machine time is the cheap part. is it doable? Yup! Just depends on how much you can do yourself versus paying someone to do it for you. I actually love this type of work. Reverse engineering a part such as this is like opening a portal to the past it’s really amazing to discover the “why” and “how” and indeed what we have lost to modern technology. Its not that modern technology is less capable but its like a car or piece of machinery from the 1900's -1920's which involved a large percentage of human element in its fabrication and assembly simple has soul. It reminds me of a visit I had years ago to a manufacturer of canoes. In the basement they had craftsman building traditional wood and canvas canoes using tools handed down generations. I could have watched for hours!. Meanwhile in another part of the facility they were dumping buckets of plastic pellets into a rotomolding machine which was cranking out plastic kayaks by the dozens. In contrast those plastic kayaks were, cold and simply lifeless.
  2. Hello Mark, As others have said I would look to see if the valves are seating evenly and have enough seating width. Lapping works great but only if its done correctly. As you no doubt know there are a lot of vehicles out there that have been poorly lapped causing more problems than it cures. Here is one of the new valves for my Wisconsin showing one of the lapped valves and width of the seating area. In this case the valves were new but I had to lightly dress the seats using an old valve seat grinder setup and pilot which worked great. With the seats its critical to dress the stone to the correct angle often and go very lightly! Then I lightly.... again lightly.... lapped each valve by hand using just the bare minimum of lapping compound. The problem is when people use too much compound and or lap too much or try to use lapping to fox a bad seat. When your lapping the compound tends to thin out near the outer edge and seat of the valve and its very easy to end-up with a concave seat and or valve. A little bit of layout blue and a few seconds twirling the valve will tell you what the seating area looks like.
  3. After "Miss Piggy" threw a fit and fouled her plugs and had to be returned to the shed in disgrace we pulled the plugs and found that they were all fouled with heavy black soot indicating that the fuel/air mixture might be more than a wee tad rich. Once back home I consulted a 1920's Dykes Automotive Encyclopedia (love those books!) and found several methods to test the mixture. By far the most interesting was the "Flame Test". Since it involves scorching hot flame and loud noise we just had to try it. On Tuesday Herb cleaned the plugs by burning the carbon out with a propane torch then set about the test. It worked perfect! As you can see in the video below the color change is very obvious. Now Miss Piggy is back to normal though "normal" seems to be rather ambiguous and random at the moment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylRn2qy3T7U Here are some of the members of our "Tuesday Crew" Every Tuesday they volunteer at the museum working on a variety of projects One current project is setting up the new clapboard mill. Without them the museum would certainly not be the success it is today. The "Tuesday Crew" Lair. Here is a local news story about this remarkable group of people: https://www.newscentermaine.com/article/news/local/the-men-who-keep-one-maine-museum-going/97-3317c6ee-3b57-437d-bc64-4260bda46faa
  4. Ah, the saga...... Today I arrived a Herb''s place around 8:00 am after an uneventful 2-1/2 hour drive from our little town tucked-up tight against the Canadian border. Our goal today was to get the "Green Goddess" (our 1932 10 ton Lombard) up and running after the ignition system went kaput. Earlier in the week Herb had installed a new coil, condenser, Ballast resistor and points. Since the road to the museum is an un-plowed logging road, Herb had to ditch his car and hike in the last mile pulling a sled loaded with his tools and fuel. Today, Thankfully, the marvel of AWD took the drama out of getting to the museum - though a couple of sleds went along with us just in case. Anyway, a nice brand new set of spark plugs soon had the beast running like a champ. We then went to work on the 1928 Lombard dump truck. The vacuum tank had been giving us fits so we decided to swap back to gravity feed until I can spend some time getting the tank sorted out. Our suspicion is that the valves are not seating consistently. Anyway, after two trips to town we finely had a drip free fuel line and shut-off valve. We also spent time tightening up the intake connections (carb to governor valve housing and governor valve housing to manifold) and replacing a missing screw on the fuel bowl and a lot of snugging of loose stuff. With the work complete it fired right up and sounded great! With two running Lombards and a event coming up, we decided to see if the dump truck, with its new gravity feed system could negotiate the hills it would need to climb during the event. We also learned how to pull and push a Lombard with another Lombard. However the joy of this discovery was offset by the need to pull and push another Lombard. The dump truck decided to let us down about halfway through the run when the plugs fouled-up and it went from a six cylinder to a one cylinder and then none. So, the Green Goddess came to the rescue. Towing was no problem since back in the day it could pull upwards of 260 tons of logs or pulpwood on sleds. The problem was how to shove the dead beast into the shed. We ended-up using one of the reach poles from a heavy logging sled. Made of 4"x4" oak with iron fittings at each end it worked great! In fact we are quite proud of that accomplishment though photos or video footage is absent. Where are the photos you ask? Well, since it was only Herb and myself and we were both occupied driving or steering said machines involved in this saga opportunities to take photos were minimal. However Herb did manage to take some video. So... what did we learn. Well to some people all this might sound discouraging but to us it was sort of a liberating experience. We now know we can retrieve one of these beast if it so chooses to not run. In other words that fear of having a 10 ton steel sculpture struck outside on the museum grounds is no longer a fear. That's cool! Here is a video Herb managed to shoot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktS7ROBcTUY
  5. Thanks for the offer Mark. Most appreciated. I think I am all set and have a plan for what I need but I appreciate the offer. Best regards, Terry
  6. Hello Joe, I did a bit more research out of curiosity. MG used the scroll and slinger setup for quite awhile. However, for it to work well it requires tight clearances. (.003 to .006 for the MGA) Running, the system works quite well but will drip when shutdown. On the MG its actually threads with a form that has the crest forming a flat and a sizable radius forming the root . The disk to the left of the scroll is the oil slinger. I almost think my Wisconsin uses something similar but I would have to check. I remember there were no seals or packing. Not sure how you would retrofit an existing crank for a setup like this. T.
  7. Hello Joe, Thinking about your pressurized system... I know there were a number of cars with just a spiral groove to pull the oil back in. I believe Austin Healey "Bug Eye" Sprite comes to mind. On the Mains and Rod bearing shims will you have the babbitt tips? These are supposed to keep oil where its needed. Here you can see one of the tips and the round hole and slot that provides a mechanical lock to the shim. There appears to be a punch mark to upset the babbitt. Don't loose sleep. Its only an engine. As one person once said "Do something. You can always fix something but you can't fix nothing." Greatly enjoying watching progress!
  8. Thanks Mark, I think I have a course of action plotted out. I designed a T-fitting in Solidworks. This will be 3D printed (its actually printing now) Once its done, sanded and smoothed-up it will serve as a pattern for a phenolic resin casting so I end up with a faux-bakelite fitting which should approximate the size and material of the original. Again, thank you for the help! Terry
  9. Thanks Jack, Based on your lead I found these split fittings for a reasonable price. I would love to see what an original fitting looked like before I click "Buy".
  10. We are currently working to get the headlights wired-up for our 1928 Lombard Dump Truck. Recently we came across a photo showing the wire harness conduit running to the headlights. As you can see from the photo there is a "Tee" junction where the conduit runs up the radiator side casting to the headlight. The main conduit continues around the base of the radiator and eventually ends at the right headlight. The conduit is asphaltic coated cloth. (we found suitable replacement through Brillman) Now my question... How was the "Tee" formed? would there have been some sort of a T-fitting? (Bakelite perhaps?) from the photo it doesn't look like its just friction taped together? Since its exposed we would like to do it right. Best regards, Terry
  11. Today Herb Crosby and I (after coaxing the 1928 Lombard Dump truck to start in 0 degree weather) decided it would be a wonderful day to take a cruise around the museum grounds all covered with a beautiful new snow. May you all have a wonderful Christmas season - enjoy family, friends or perhaps just stay warm and comfy and reflect on all the good things of the past year and the good things to come with the next. May you help those in need and be a friend and light to those who are alone or suffering and always seek the good. P:S: Those narrow hard rubber tires made steering the beast quite a chore and we figured out that our gas consumption is about 5 gallons per hour.
  12. Joe those patterns look great! I have been following your progress with the align boring rig. Its of great interest since I have the same job to do with the big Wisconsin. Keep up the great work!
  13. When we think of 3D technology often our first thought is 3D printing. While 3D printing is a form of Additive Manufacturing we also have Subtractive Manufacturing as well which has a much longer history and is very well suited (with the correct application) to 3D rapid prototyping. CNC has been with us since the 1950's however, over the past few decades, when teamed with 3D modeling and the amazing advances in CNC equipment (5 axis milling comes to mind) it is indeed a very potent tool! At the museum we are trying to fill in all the holes in dash panel of the 1928 Lombard dump truck. The day the Lombard arrived we swapped out a non-functioning, non-original magneto switch with another non-original magneto switch. Last week I was thinking about how we could make the new switch at least look like the OEM switch which went missing eons ago. The original switch was a rotary switch with the knob acting as a key. In this application we used a modern push/pull switch (I think old Farmalls used this style). Our thought is that it looks like the original and will get us by until we can find and/or afford a original switch. Here is the sketch: Armed with Measurements of an original correct style American-Bosch switch I again used Solidworks to model the components. Next stop was AutoDesk Fusion 360 (again, this is free home non-commercial use) which I use to generate the tool paths and export the G-code which is then up-loaded to our Tormach 440 CNC milling machine. (I love this machine) My first run was with a wax block to test that everything was ok. Then in scrap aluminum to test the engraving before I committed to brass. Today, I finished it up. All that is left is a bit of polishing to remove the last of the tool marks and tap the face plate for the stem of the switch. The American-Bosch logo on the knob is indeed etched in the CNC mill using a 30 degree engraving tool. Interestingly the brass for the knob was from an old grounding rod my dad gave me years ago - kind of an appropriate use! And a photo of an original switch for comparison: