Terry Harper

Members
  • Content Count

    96
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

60 Excellent

About Terry Harper

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 11/13/1963

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Terry Harper

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Most excellent Joe! I know you put a ton of thought into what design of pump to use and how to fabricate it. There is a lot of satisfaction in getting a project like this done! Will you have a way to control pressure (i.e. bypass valve?) T
  2. Terry Harper

    Locomobile Parts Department "Wanted"

    Alan, Do you have any photos etc of a Model 48 oil pan or remains? Is it missing completely? My curiosity is getting the better of me. T.
  3. Terry Harper

    Locomobile Parts Department "For Sale"

    Not yet! But we are getting there. This project sort of fell to the bottom of the que but should be at the front once I get these patterns and core boxes for the Wisconsin out of the way. T.
  4. Terry Harper

    Locomobile Parts Department "For Sale"

    Hello Alan, I was just looking at the Smooth-On website. They offer a bunch of different resin products for different applications. In regards to heat resistance they have EpoxyAcast 670HT which can withstands temps up to 350 degrees depending on how its cured. They also have UV resistant pigments and additives. I am thinking it would be best to call a rep to discuss what would work best but this might be a good place to start. All good fun! Best regards, Terry PS: here is the model of the cap for Joe. I think we are going to loose the script in the middle since he plans to use a moto-meter
  5. Terry Harper

    Locomobile Parts Department "For Sale"

    Hello Alan, I have not. When I get back into it I was planning to call the manufacturer and see if they have a recommendation. I know they offer several types of resin for different applications. I also have an article were a firm reverse engineered the distributor cap for a V12 Liberty engine and were casting them out of resin as well. Their only issue was the resin was somewhat brittle so they had to develop some unique steps in the manufacturing process. I just e-mailed the article to you. You never know when the info will come in handy! Best regards, Terry
  6. Terry Harper

    Locomobile Parts Department "For Sale"

    That would work just fine. T.
  7. Terry Harper

    Using 3D technology

    Its been awhile but I thought I would share the end results. Here we have the completed patterns and core boxes. This was a set of patterns I simply dreaded fabricating. In fact I am glad I procrastinated because I am sure I would have had a very difficult time fabricating these by hand out of wood. I am sure it can be done but not with my skill level or thin wallet! As you can see we have a four piece pattern plus a follower and two core boxes. Once I had the prints I went over them with sand paper and filler followed by a two coats of primer and a top coat. The filler was bondo simply smeared on with my fingers as thin as possible. It sands very easy and works well to smooth the layers left from the printing process as well as imperfections left from the temporary supports. Since I am not using the most high tech printers this is typical. I use rattle can automotive paint and wet sand between layers. I probably go over board with the finish but the smoother it is the easier the patterns can be removed from the mold. Because of the curved part line of the patterns I could not use dowels for the alignment pins since they would be a different angles to each other and would have made assembling and disassembling the pattern impossible. I ended up using round head rivets which give enough variation in the angle of pull to work. Anyway... now its time to finish the other two sets of patterns and get some bronze poured! Best regards, Terry
  8. Terry Harper

    Locomobile Parts Department "For Sale"

    Hello Alan, I know the article didn't address it but there should be a threaded brass insert. My plan for Joe's was to either encapsulate the brass insert when I pour the resin or mill the resin casting and epoxy the insert in place.
  9. Terry Harper

    Locomobile Parts Department "For Sale"

    Hello Alan, I have a scanned copy of it and will forward it to you. I just need to finds it! I am pretty sure its on my school computer. It's a pretty straight forward process using silicone molds and colored phenolic resin castings to simulate the bakelite. I have been working on one for Joe. His is a modified version of the one shown below. We currently have the 3D model now I need to either 3D print or CNC the master. Cheers! Terry P.S. In regards to the Wisconsin... I finished and painted the patterns and core boxes for the rear water manifold and have most of the pattern pieces printed for the front fitting. Its a slow process but they are looking great!
  10. Terry Harper

    What Make engine on the back?

    Thanks! looks like that would be it!
  11. Terry Harper

    Show me your Foliage!

  12. Terry Harper

    What Make engine on the back?

    Here is one for the sleuth's. As you can see on the back is a two drum donkey engine powered by what looks like an automobile or truck engine from the looks of the radiator. Any ideas what make or model it may have once belonged too? The truck itself is a Lombard 8 ton model "T" which has survived and resides in a private collection. Best regards, Terry
  13. Terry Harper

    Using 3D technology

    In my first post on this thread I posted the renderings of the patterns for part no. A27A (Lower water manifold rear fitting) Today we finished 3D printing the last of the components for the pattern and core boxes. These will still need to be post processed - cleaned-up with any imperfections filled and sanded. Once that's done they will be primed, wet sanded and then a gloss top coat applied - the better the finish the easier the pattern can be pulled from the mold and the better quality casting. Below is a photo of the patterns, follower and core boxes in the raw just out of the printer. You can see some of the rough areas where the temporary supports were attached. The supports allow you to print over hanging features. They are easily broken away and removed after the print is complete than the rough areas sanded, filled etc. One piece took over 57 hours to print. Granted after doing the setup and sending through the file it simply ran by itself and I was free to work on other things. In the 3D printing world a quality print equals time - lots of time unless you are using the megabucks equipment. 3D printing reminds me of when Texas Instruments came out with the first hand held calculator - they cost a lot of money back then now I can spend a couple of bucks and buy a calculator that has the same functions and is a lot smaller. Same with 3D printing. I printed these using our Creality CR-10 which sells for less than $1,000.00. The quality doesn't match the megabuck commercial equipment but it does a real nice job. Now its onto printing the patterns for the front fitting. Best regards, Terry
  14. Terry Harper

    Speedster ore torpedo style seats

    Not sure if this would work for you but with that narrow chassis how about individual staggered seats with the passenger seat set back further than the front and a slight overlap. This was common with a lot of early racers.
  15. Terry Harper

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Looking good Joe! The other factor in regards to engine RPM is how "horsepower" was produced and used back in the day. Comparing a big T-head or other early large displacement engine of the day with modern engines is like comparing apples and oranges. For a number of years I had an interest in the hobby of building replica WW1 aircraft - Fokkers, Sopworths etc. Since WW1 era Mercedes or Le-Rhone rotary aircraft engines are made out of un-obtainium builders had to find modern substitutes. Invariably these were modern products from the likes of Continental, Lycoming or others. The problem is the performance of a 130 hp Lycoming is nothing like that of a 110 hp. Le-Rhone rotary cranking out over 400 ft/lbs of torque at only 1,400 rpm. Yes, the Lycoming produces considerable more horsepower but the torque (approx. 262 ft/lbs) just isn’t there. Try swinging a 10 foot prop at 1,400 rpm with a modern 130 hp 0-290 Lycoming which churns out peak hp. and torque at approx. 2,600 rpm – it’s not going to happen and as many discovered, once a suitable prop was installed, that the aircraft was decidedly under powered. Same with the big T-heads. The horsepower rating may be small but the torque – which really does the work, is massive. Back in the day this suited the technology. Transmissions and clutches were not all that user friendly. The idea was to use all that torque developed at low rpm rather than constantly swapping gear ratios trying to keep the engine in the peak power band