Terry Harper

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Terry Harper last won the day on December 22 2018

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About Terry Harper

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  • Birthday 11/13/1963

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  1. I fabricate core boxes. These are filled with core sand and once cured the cores are bonded together and placed in the mold and accurately positioned using the core prints. In this photo the patterns have already been rammed-up in the drag (lower half of the mold) - excuse me if I get these reversed! The drag has been flipped over and the other half of the patterns placed. Next the sand will be added and rammed-up to form the cope or top half of the mold. The pattern will be pulled and the gates, runners etc. will be cut. Then the patterns will be removed (pulled) and the cores set in place. In the photo below is a set of cores all cured and ready to be glued together. Here are the cores (coated with graphite) positioned in the drag (lower half of the mold). These particular pour was for the intake manifold. Here is the cope (top half) ready to be placed. You can clearly see the core prints that locate the cores as well as the runners, gates and shrink bob and vents cut. Here are the fresh castings with the cores knocked out. Ready for machining and polishing!
  2. I feel your pain in regards to SolidWorks. It doesn't seem as intuitive as Inventor. On the other hand there are some tasks that are easier. In regards to bondo and the top coat. Yes, generally all I am trying to do is fill any imperfections and mask the layering. Most of the bondo and first primer coat get sanded away in the process. The idea is to get a good finish on the pattern so it will pull cleanly from the mold. On my early wood patterns, in many instances I used a coat of shellac rubbed down with steel wool to seal and fill the wood before the finish coat. Below is a set for the valve shrouds for a Wisconsin model "A" in a 1917 FWD truck. For this set I imported the model into Fusion 360 to generate the tool paths then exported the G-code to Pathpilot for our CNC milling machine. Best regards, Terry Below, are the castings along with the original piece we used for reverse engineering.
  3. Hi Mike, I used Inventor Professional for this project. For future projects I have swapped over to SolidWorks. I teach engineering graphics so they are readily available to me. The 3D printer is a Creality CR10. Its affordable and never seems to quit. For finishing I usually smear a thin coat of bondo on then sand followed by a couple coats of primer (sanded between coats) and one or two rattle can top coats. The smoother the finish the easier the pattern can be pulled from the mold.
  4. To bring closure to this thread, over the weekend I finished the last of the patterns and core boxes for the Lower water manifold on my big Wisconsin T-head motor. When I first started this project way back in late 2008 I was advised by some people that it was beyond me and I should just give the project to someone else. To be sure, trying to replicate the missing brass and bronze fittings was a daunting task - the brass and bronze Intake manifold, upper water manifold, lower water manifold, oil pump drive housing and a bunch of little parts all had to be replicated and that required a large number of patterns and core boxes. At the time I had never had any experience with foundry work or making patterns - terms such as draft, machining allowance and shrinkage were foreign to me. Well... here we are today and now I have all the patterns and core boxes done. Hopefully, soon I will have some nice castings to work with and the best part? I did it all myself! Its been a long road... I started out working with wood and learning how to turn elbows etc. on the lathe and casting plaster core boxes from wood masters. From that I progressed to 3D printing technology. Here is a photo of my very first pattern. This was for the oil pump drive housing. To the left is the only remnant I had left of the original. Here are all the wood patterns and plaster core boxes for the intake manifold Intake manifold casting ready for assembly Below are some of the wood patterns and the new upper water manifold And finally the very last set! These are the 3D printed patterns and core boxes for the lower water manifold. All of these have a four part pattern plus a follower to hold the pattern in the correct position. In the lower left corner you can see the only remaining original fitting that I had. Now it's off to the foundry! Once the castings for the lower water manifold are in hand I will have replacements all the missing fittings and parts with the exception of the starter and generator. Best regards, Terry
  5. I have no idea if its a Studebaker or not but there is indeed a lot to work with there. Plenty of surviving wood for patterns and and what appears to be most of the iron which is the most important. Earlier this year the Building Trades and Farm Mechanic's students at our local high school CTE center did a similar project for a set of heavy logging sleds for the Maine Forest & Logging museum. If you have no takers and have such a program near you maybe that could be an option. I know we always looking for interesting live work projects that engage our students and provide opportunities for practical application of the skills they are learning in our programs. It would be a shame for this piece to go to ground. Best regards, Terry
  6. I am seriously think about it!. Another storm is due to hit us on Sunday..... joy!
  7. Hello Alan & Mike, I have had experienced the frustration and the absolute amazement of steam bending wood for a few projects. including bending white oak for kayak ribs and cockpit rims. Invariably when I had a failure it was due to the grain orientation. I soaked the strips in a length of water filled PVC pipe for a week or so before steaming and I made sure I was using green wood. For steaming I built a simple box out of scrap lumber with dowels going through to act as racks. Some of the small parts I boiled. In fact that's how I managed to to stew my foot but that's another story. You only have a short period of time to work. I usually started bending by hand before clamping in the form (if your using one) All the ribs shown below were free-formed using the keel as a guide. The cockpit rims I used a form. Looking forward to see the progress! P.S: Mike you have green grass! Trying to remember what that looked like - as of this weekend our total snow fall is over 16 feet!
  8. The transmission was made by Cotta. They flipped the pattern figuring that 2nd and 3rd were the most frequent gears used and therefore should be closets to the driver. Here is a view of the transmission. and at the other end the differential and brake (the only brake....)
  9. That's cool Alan! Most of the homes in our area are from the 1880's and up. It wasn't until after the Aroostook War of 1838-39 and the Webster-Ashburton treaty that settlement really got underway up here. In fact just around the corner from my house is the original site the Fort & Barracks built during that brief war. Like you Alan our town was hit hard by a flood in 1994. The town is right beside the Aroostook River and that year the river backed-up behind a massive ice jam and pretty much devastated the down-town. The small businesses never fully recovered. T.
  10. All taken care of! I had to re-install the water meter. One of the fittings on the pipe that comes in from the street service failed. Most of the water went to one end of the basement Fortunately no damage to speak of we keep the food storage, pellets etc. all up on pallets. Joys of a 125 year old home!
  11. Looks great Joe! I was soldering too.... but mine wasn't as fun - broken fitting in the basement which left about 6" of water. T.
  12. Alan, I can't wait to see this go together! I see Don's package of "goodies" arrived. He was disappointed that the castings were so rough but they should clean-up well. T.
  13. Now for something less than pretty. Note the shift pattern. The big hole in the dash is "radiant" heating.
  14. Very nice! Looks well thought out and executed. I would rank this as one of my favorite model T speedsters to date. I like the domed ends on the fuel tank. I am curious what has been done under the hood. Terry
  15. Back a number of years ago I built a couple of kayaks. The epoxy I used was MAS epoxy. I used it for laminating fiberglass to wood and also to completely seal bare wood. For gluing joints or filling voids etc. it can be thickened with wood flour or micro balloons. With several coats of high quality spar varnish to provide UV protection its worked excellent and has held-up well over the past 10 plus years. As for penetrating to seal or strengthen rot I would echo what others have stated - cutout and replace.