Mike "Hubbie" Stearns

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Everything posted by Mike "Hubbie" Stearns

  1. Thanks so much on you post. It really brings to light the process of repairing a casting without welding or brazing. I really enjoyed reading it. Thanks again mike
  2. Where did you send the block? I didn't see or read who is doing the repair. Thanks mike
  3. Charlier, thanks for the info. I hadn't thought of checking and or adjusting the wd system. I guess I just assumed it hadn't changed. As soon as the weather warms up enough, I'll be checking it. Thanks again, mike
  4. I've had the camper longer than the truck. The camper is a 2008 and purchased new. The truck was purchased used with 22K on it. It has always done it. I was thinking about going to a good gas filled shock, but really don't know
  5. Campers generally don't have shocks on them from the factory. I think you can put them on, but are quite expensive.
  6. This has probably been discussed before, but I didn't find one. With spring just around the corner and time to start checking our trucks and trailers for the warm weather towing. I have a 07 Chevy 2500 diesel and a 30' camper. The camper weights in at about 7000 lb with 750 lb tongue weight. I always use the Equilizer weight distribution hitch. I've notice last fall that I'm getting a lot more bounce from the hitch area. The truck is stock. I believe I need to replace the shocks. I would like your opinion on what shocks I should get. Thanks Mike
  7. Mike, I do like the color and look forward to seeing it all assembled. I'm like you also, blue isn't my favorite color as I like the reds. I've had several trucks of various colors and the current one is my favorite and I'd victory red
  8. Mike, love to see the progress you have made. Looks great. I can't wait till I can get back to mine. I'm just wondering why blue?
  9. I'm looking for a 15H engine block. It's a flat head inline 6 cylinder with a 4.5" bore. Will consider all or any leads. Thanks mike
  10. the block does need sleeved and new valve guides and seats. With that said, I'm just looking at my options. I've found a company that specializes in welding it by furnace welding and can do the machine work also. It's about a 2 day round trip. Been looking for a metal stitcher company and a replacement block. The ladder is going to be quite hard to find. There isn't much info available for 1928 continental engines on the web. I really need to locate a cross reference book since it seems that some forklifts used them. Thanks for your input, Mike
  11. Just a quick update. Got a call from the machine shop earlier this week. After a quick chat over the phone, I stopped by. He had planned on pinning the crack. After he had cleaned it, it is worst than he thought. As you can see in the picture, the crack goes around the inside under the valve seat. There are 2 of these cracks and several other smaller ones as well. He recommends it be welded. So now I'm going to have to look for someone that can do this or try to find another block. Either way, it's going to be a challenge. Mike
  12. I had taken the block to the machine shop to get the crack fixed. It's a 15h continental 6 cylinder flat head. There's a crack that starts at the exhaust valve of number 2 cylinder to the cylinder. He had already planned on sleeping the cylinderThe shop called me today and we( both the machine shop and me) don't know what was in the cylinders. What I mean is he hot tanked it and when he washed it down, the the bore grew 50 thousandths. It's not the end of the world. Does anyone know what it might have been? He did say the whatever it was, was magnetic. Thanks Mike
  13. I'm a plumber and at times we use water to test piping (usually underground cast iron) for inspectors. Our test is 10 foot of waster which gives us 4.34 psi at the bottom. Water will give you .434 psi per foot of rise. Since gasoline is lighter than water, My question is how many feet of rise is needed to get 2 psi using gasoline ? Thanks Mike
  14. Standing back is a good thing sometimes. I remember one time when I rebuilt an engine for a friend and was putting it back in the car. I couldn't get the engine to marry back to the transmission. I tried everything I could think of as well for a few choice words to no avail. In walked my dad and he wanted to know what all the noise was about. When I explained the problem, he told me it was because the license plate bolts were loose and t needed to tighten then first. After a short discussion, I gave in to his idea. I grabbed a screw driver and tightened the dam screws and put it back up. Then I started to work on the problem. While standing on the frame rails, I grabbed the water pump to adjust the engine and heard the engine and transmission slam together. I looked at dad and all he could say is " I told you so". I didn't say a word and finished the job without anymore problems. Afterwards, I finally asked dad what the relationship was between the license plate bolts and getting the engine back in. He said it took my mind off the problem and when I went back to it, I was looking at it differently. I am just thankful for all the wisdom he gave me over the years
  15. I have the same problem with my 28 gramm with a continental. The steering box in the way when I tried to pull the engine. Had to unbolt it and push it up and back. After some research, I found that it is the practice of removing the cylinder block and transmission. The engine can then be unbolted and lifted out. The other option is to remove the front rear spring pins and swing front axle out of the way. Slide engine front or back to clear the rear mounts and out the bottom. Either way, it seem to be a lot of work. Good luck
  16. I finally had time to do the math. According to the math, I would need a 6X7 ( dxh) filter. Unfortunately I won't fit directly on the carb. Ill have to make something to get it to some free space. Will probably use some 3 1/2 or 4 inch tubing since the carb is 3 inch. Mike
  17. I loved the video. Just wish restoring a vehicle was that fast
  18. I'd like to wish all of you a safe, a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from central Indiana. Just don't eat and drink too much. Mike
  19. Bud, I tried Monties and they don't have any manuals that cover my engine. I really don't know how I found Faxon Auto Lir Sales, but they do have a manual that covers it. It's a 1930 manual. Unfortunately it's out of stock at this time. It should be available in January. I was surprised on how many items they have for sale. Mike
  20. I agree luv2wrench! There's a lot of good information in these threads and I've learned something new every time I read a post. I can't wait till the weather warns up so I can get back to mine. Thanks to all of you ! Mike
  21. My first car was a 65 bug. It didn't do bad in the snow or ice. Me and my friend use to go drift bustin out in the countryside. Run it about 25-35 to hit a drift and go up and over it. I got pretty good at it until we hit one that was a good 3 foot high and about 12 foot long. We got stuck about half way through. We spent about an hour getting it out. Turned around and headed back to town. We passes the snow plow a mile down the road. We turned back around and found the snow plow stuck in the same place we were. We helped him get out. He was very great full for the help as his radio had quit working and Was on his way to the garage to get it fixed. It took him 3 times to get through.
  22. M-mman, would you post or send me a picture please? Thanks Hubbie
  23. 1939 Buick, my engine is 6 cylinders with a bore of 4 1/2 and stroke of 5 1/2. With a rear end ratio of 6.90, I've been told it will top out at about 45 mph wide open. I'm not planning on doing that ever. Hubbie