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  1. Ah, thanks Bob - I didn’t have a retainer ring but it seems to sandwich together OK (but may move with vibrations). Amp meter will be really helpful when you get a chance. Sounds like you need another person helping with all the work you’ve got on.
  2. Thanks! We’ve given it a single gold pinstripe on the top bead. It’s quite thin so hard to see in the photos but it looks good in daylight.
  3. I don’t go at your pace mate! Finished the doors off today - took a little time fitting the anti rattle strikers. just finishing up and putting the door handles back together and the last one snapped. Not sure why as I didn’t have any force on the handle - was peening the shaft and the end just pinged off. I think it’s pot metal so not sure if I can weld it? also fitted the Speedo cable - I think this is where it goes through the floor as there was a small cut out in the metal plate by the brake pedal.
  4. Few bit’s and pieces were finished up before the start - finished the fuel and vacuum piping + throttle linkages. Spun the engine over without plugs to establish oil pressure, then with only minor adjustments to spark and carby settings, Doc’s Dodge burst into life.
  5. Matt painted the face for me so have got it back together. Looks fantastic but doesn’t seem to be any positive location for the face and glass - just seems to sandwich between the bezel and Speedo body. Not sure if that’s how it should be?
  6. Picked up some more bits from Matt today and they look amazing. still some adjustments to do but couldn’t resist getting the doors back on so I could see what it looks like.
  7. Progress has been slowed a little over the last couple of weeks with lockdown 5.0 in Melbourne but with that lifting I’m Wednesday the team have been back at it and a huge milestone this week (hopefully the link works). https://www.facebook.com/groups/618070668402050/permalink/1620190668190040/
  8. Made a brass plug and seems to work great now. Sod’s law says Bob found the part and posted it already;)
  9. Not sure about this model but on mine, the main shaft is held in with a collar that is inserted over the shaft from the Speedo cable end. I removed using a small pin punch tapping in the centre of the shaft whilst holding the body. You would probably want to free up your shaft first though.
  10. Wry similar to the series 128/129 but that mounting bracket on the front end is different. The 128/129s bolt straight through the guard to the running board.
  11. Ok, sometimes when the pot metal moves, the two support arms can move apart and the pin comes out of engagement. You could potentially do a band aid by gluing it to stop the disc spinning. Would be hard to take apart but if your pot metal is bad you probably wouldn’t want to anyway. It’s not too hard to replace the pot metal with a replacement body.
  12. Is it the main odometer numbers that are all moving together or the trip meter numbers (on the right)? The ones on the left have a pin on the brass end plate that engages in a slot in the housing - if that’s missing or not engaged the whole lot will turn together. The ones on the right are linked to a thin metal plate which engages in a small square hole in the body - that’s less likely to be the issue. Also, the trip reset mechanism can allow all the trip numbers to rotate together if not set correctly.
  13. Thanks Bob- little brass plug would help me out if you have one of them.
  14. Hi all, I’m in the middle or repairing/rebuilding my Speedo (the pot metal body needed replacing) and think I’m missing a part - hoping someone knows what I’m missing. the shaft with the worm gear that drives the odometer doesn’t seem to have anything that holds it in place and therefore seems to push out when the Speedo operates. Should their be something that holds it in the shaft (like a brass plug)? This is it stripped: This is the shaft that I think should have something to hold it in: should there be a plug in this hole to hold it in?
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