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About RichBad

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  1. Hi Ron, what profile windscreen framing did you manage to find? When I was restoring my frame (which I think is probably quite similar to yours) I had a hard time finding anything that would suit - with the glass channel one side, the rubber channel on the other and the ability to have the top section removable for replacing the glass. I ended up repairing mine using parts from two frames, some help from Matt and a fair bit of fibreglass.
  2. Looks good mate, I think there are details for spring dimensions and leaves on the DBC web site I’ll have a look as i think I’ve got a copy as had mine re-set and the top leaf re-made.
  3. Just realised the stuff I got was 1/4” but plain copper. Very easy to form which is good. Probably closer to what was used originally and available on eBay or any AC place - cupronickel doesn’t seem to be so readily available here although pretty easy to get from uk on eBay. I think the Australian ADRs require bundy or stainless for brake lines which may be why it’s not so readily available here.
  4. You can get 3/16” CuNi here pretty easily, it’s pretty standard. 1/4” also available. What size are your lines?
  5. Also, when you fit it, install the shaft and wind the packing clockwise around the shaft feeding into the bore as you go. When fitted, tighten the nut just enough to seal but allow the shaft to move. I started out by over tightening and then backing off until it could move freely - works a treat and doesn’t leak a drop.
  6. Packing gland/rope/cord/seal. I think Myers sell it. I’d recommend a complete gasket set from them (which may include the packing) and also get one of their viton float seals - saves lots of trouble.
  7. Dog legs done on both sides (man they were hard). Tongue and groove made for rear floor and fitted. Roughed out out one rear door now on to the other side doors.
  8. I think the grooves in the bearing may have been more to do with the manufacturing technique than for oil distribution. I doubt that you will find them with the grooves. i had the same issue with my box, it worked but was noisy. Turned out the cages had broken for all three roller bearings. One thing to check before you re -assemble is that the shafts that the bearings run on are in good condition. Mine had quite a lot of wear on the lay shaft - if I’d put it back together I think it would have destroyed the new bearings in no time. I think if the wear is only slight, you can turn the lay shaft 180 degrees as they tend to wear more on the loaded top surface. cheers, Richard
  9. Slow progress, but progress none the less. Almost finished the rear end, just need to complete the bottom half of the dog legs. Not so easy as the metalwork had been repaired in the past so I had nothing to work to as a correct pattern. Think I’ve figured it out but those curved pieces of wood aren’t easy - especially the joint to the vertical part.
  10. If you put modern seals in your diff then it’s probably going to pressurise and blow oil out somewhere. When I did mine I put a breather hole in one of the rear case top bolts - seems to work fine and no oil comes out of the breather bolt or anywhere else on the diff.
  11. Unfortunately I didn’t measure any on my recent build but checking the block, the rear bearing slot is 10mm wide. Not sure if thickness but I think it was square.
  12. Where’s the fun in that:). Although my head is past done in! But I am learning something new. Also so needed something to staple the trim to:)
  13. Hopefully:) can’t be worse than what it had before!
  14. Thanks! Got the other side finished today - much easier than the first. Mike, photo below of the router attachment I used for the finger joints.
  15. Just a router with a special bit - will take a photo.