• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

169 Excellent


About RichBad

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Or perhaps go larger with the pivots so they fit the bore and eliminate any source of movement that way - as long as they can still pivot freely (a good roller bearing may be a good fit)?
  2. Hi Matt, i think the diameter of your two pins may be too large and creating some friction which in turn translates as a very small difference in distance between pivots which can lead to the variation. It’s important that it’s horizontal each time (between the small and big end centres) as well as being exactly the same distance from the small end pivot to where the mass is measured at the big end or visa versa. I think if you use a small diameter pin or even a ‘knife edge’ for the pivot it would be be more repeatable.
  3. If you can notice the difference in a 24 dodge then you are doing well:). From what I can tell the choice between the two is probably more one of availability and personal preference than anything else - both seem to have plenty of use with no issues. Most of our cars have lasted 90+ years probably with sub standard lube for a great period as well as poor change schedule. With the love they get these days either of the above oils is likely to see them going for another 90+ years.
  4. Looks nice and clean and original. That should come up a treat! thats a long drive!
  5. 4 cylinder 180degree crank shouldn’t be a problem to balance - and to be honest the fhlywheel is going to soak up a lot on these old girls. Had mine balanced no issues. When you get to non opposing inertia e.g ‘v’s, parallel twins etc (like the old motorbikes) then it’s harder and you have to go with a balance factor to suit the engine/frame/rev range and can never be perfect.
  6. That’s a good point from Matt. To loose the 1st and reverse gear would be quite unlikely but for the selector to be damaged could be quite likely and would have the same effect.
  7. Hi Matt, that reminds me - I was meaning to take a drive to you in my Dodge - would be interesting to compare (and I've got to drop that rubber off). I've had mine completely balanced - crank, flywheel, clutch rods etc and there are still some decent vibes at certain revs. I seem to remember you ruled out all the obvious 'easy' things to check (fan etc). Before you get the engine out may be worth checking the clutch - with the gearbox and clutch removed you can still start and run the engine. Could also check the fly wheel bolts at the same time and that the fly wheel is located correctly.
  8. Galvanised from new. Can be redone and not expensive but you’ll have to remove the internal oil baffle first which is riveted in place. Then refit after galvanising and solder the heads of the rivets to seal them.
  9. It gets quicker and easier the second time around - trust me I know:). Think I had my sump on and off 3 times during my engine rebuild. You may be able to re-use your gasket depending on the sealer you used. I put a thin coating on silicone on the sump face and let it touch dry and then a coating on the block which I stick the gasket to. When the sump is removed the gasket stays stuck to the block and comes away from the sump easily so can be reused.
  10. Yes, that would do it as it would block the return tube resulting in oil overflowing out of the rear of the sump. Here’s a picture of mine before the sump went on - slightly later model but I think the seal and sump gasket is very similar in this area. i used sealant to ‘glue’ the felt to the rear bearing cap with a little extra in the corners to ensure it was oil tight.
  11. Could well be the sump gasket around the oil flinger behind the rear bearing. If the gasket in this area overhangs into the cavity it can prevent the oil flowing back into the sump resulting in a leak. Just found und a couple of pics Fromm Bob B which explain what I mean.
  12. Hi, the sump baffle can be removed if you are good at riveting and soldering. I started cleaning mine out with a few goes at degreasing, scrubbing and power washing. Then decided I wanted to get it re galvanised so removed the baffle and there was still a decent layer of sludge below the baffle. It wasn’t that hard to refit the baffle, just 4 rivets on each side and then solder over the heads of the rivets to seal them.
  13. Thanks Ron. I wasn’t sure if they even had side rubbers originally but figured that as there was a channel in the screen frame I may as well use it:)
  14. Fitted new rubbers and installed on the car. Came up a treat. Are the rubbers trimmed to suit the gaps or do they just overlap?
  15. Thanks! I wanted to do it in chrome but I think it would have been close to impossible to repair it to a standard that could be plated. Not sure what they were originally but the black comes up really nice on the glass.