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About Wheelmang

  • Birthday 12/21/1949

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  1. Hi: I have a tank that came along with a bunch of extra parts for my 26 DB. There was not room here to post additional pictures. Please PM me if it looks like it will work and I can send additional pictures. I has a couple of dents that I think will pop out if a little pressure is put to the tank. Paul
  2. Senior Six - None of what I have is the 200002, also checked to your measurements and no matches. Sorry.
  3. Life got in the way of best plans today and did not make it to the shop. Tomorrow for sure. Keiser - not sure about the interchangeabilty. I have a late 20s 6 cyl that is dismantled and have no plans to rebuild so hope the numbers line up.
  4. Sorry but I do not agree with oiling the threads. Occasionally a "drop of oil" is mentioned for wheel studs or bolts in best practice instructions. The issue with that is the interpretation of a drop frequently evolves to a drop or two dripping off the stud after application. Wheel torque is measured as dry torque. They should be tightened to "X" torque and then re-torqued after a day or two of use. If you insist on oiling then, please, 1 (one) drop of oil on the outermost thread. I have seen the catastrophic result of many wheel offs on trash trucks through out my career. Oiling the threads is one of the many causes for loss of torque.
  5. The 200002 is what I think is needed. Headed to my shop a little later today and will see if I have matching number rods. Let you know tonight.
  6. May be able to help with this. Do you have a number that is on the side of the rod.
  7. Hi Terry - Welcome to the forum. You state you have most of the studs out. The assumption is you have all the retention devices holding the head on the block removed and only the studs, on which nuts would be, remain. Having said that I heard of, have not tried, a method that used rope threaded into all of the spark plug holes and reduced the area on top of the pistons with a somewhat compressible substance. Once there is an amount of rope on the top of each piston then turn the engine over. In theory will push the head off the block. Maybe someone who has tried this can chime in with yes this works or worst thing ever done.
  8. Hi Guys: I am normally found on the DB forum or over on the MGEXP site. While talking with someone about babbit material he mentioned a fully rebuilt "A" engine that is for sale. I also spoke with the gentleman who did the rebuilding as he was the babbit expert. He is looking for something around 3K for the engine and it is in central Ohio. Is that is a fair price? If anyone is interested please PM me and I will give you the contact info.
  9. I can’t remember if it is a key way drift pin or something else that holds the gear in place but certainly sounds like something is stripped worn or sheared off.
  10. Your gear looks like it is rotating on an eccentric shaft or bore. Are the teeth on the gear worn or is it the bore on the gear.
  11. You may want to try Harbor Freight about $25. Low quality and low price but decide how many times are you going to use it. If frequent use, then OTC or Snap On $100+ but quality cost$.
  12. I had a couple of spare gears but just took a look at them and both are worn. Into the scrap metal bin!
  13. Just watched your video. If memory is correct, that drive that you were moving with the screwdriver should only move when the transmission is rotating. You may want to pull the drive gear assembly and make sure nothing is stripped, broken or worn in there.
  14. Played with the logo a little and not a pretty picture but the lettering is a little more visible. Almost looks like a figure in the center of the picture but cannot tell what it is. Perhaps someone from Brookfield will have a copy of the original logos from 1947.
  15. Welcome, 1947Dodge! (Justin), to the site. You will find an incredible amount of knowledge among the world wide membership. I have never stumped anyone.
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