The beginning of many questions. 26 DB bore and more

[Wheelmang]

It has been about four years since working on my 1926 DB 6V. I threw a rod and sidelined it while completing two other restorations. My goal now is to complete the restoration in time for it's 100th birthday. So - here we go. The block is saved due to a top of the line welder who fixed the crack where the rod hit the inside of the block. I am now ready to get it on the engine stand and took piston bore measurement. It is my understanding that the OE bore is 3.9"? The thing that is confusing me is the bores are measuring 3.88". There is no ridge at the top of the bore and the pistons have no markings with the exception of one that has a faint "std". 

The crank is resurfaced. Are the spacers that were on the rods used to adjust for resurfaced crank journals or is there another purpose. What should main and rod clearance be.

I am also looking for a parts source. I have purchased from someone in the upper Midwest (Myers maybe?) but cannot find my info. 

Thanks all for looking and commenting. 

Paul

Edited December 27, 2023 by Wheelmang (see edit history)

[nat]

     Myers and Romar are both good.  They both sell the Mechanic's Instruction Manual which will answer those questions and provide details that will spare you of guesswork.

[Mark Gregush]

Sorry but, what do you mean by the crank was resurfaced? Was it ground or did you do the sandpaper polish? If it was ground, the bearings will need to be redone. Yes, the spacers came in different thicknesses to adjust clearance. Clearance, I would shoot for .0015-.002.

http://myersearlydodge.com/

https://romardb.com/

I extend an invitation to Join the Dodge Brothers Club:

http://dodgebrothersclub.org/

 

 

 

[Farmallregular]

Adjusting shims is intended to compensate for babbitt bearing wear.  To re-iterate, if the crank has been re-ground undersize you'll need new babbitt, and the mains will also have to be line bored to size after installation in the block.

 

Bearing clearance on these engines was originally set by filing shims until you could feel a little drag when turning the crank.  If you use platigage, be sure it's fresh...if the plastic has dried out it'll be harder than the babbitt metal.

 

The Mechanics Information Manual is generally available on e-bay as well.

 

Keith

[Wheelmang]

Thanks for the quick responses. Sorry for the wrong terminology, I knew better. The crank has been reground. Definitely will on the Dodge Brothers club and the manuals.  

Edit - just tried to log onto the Club and my malware program blocked it. Just want to make sure the link above is correct before over riding the block. I suspect it's because of the HTTP address without the "S"

Edited December 28, 2023 by Wheelmang
Add club info (see edit history)

[Mark Gregush]

RE malware. The page is correct and thought maybe that was just me. I added it to my exceptions, but you may want to wait. The club also has a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/dodgebros/

[nat]

7 hours ago, Wheelmang said:

The crank has been reground.

     Contact Romar.

[nearchoclatetown]

22 hours ago, Wheelmang said:

Thanks for the quick responses. Sorry for the wrong terminology, I knew better. The crank has been reground. Definitely will on the Dodge Brothers club and the manuals.  

Edit - just tried to log onto the Club and my malware program blocked it. Just want to make sure the link above is correct before over riding the block. I suspect it's because of the HTTP address without the "S"

Wheelmang, do NOT try to join the club from the DBC website. The site is junk and no one seems to be able or willing to fix it. The only safe way to join is through mail to Dodge Brothers Club P.O. box 1543 Cambridge, Oh. 43725 or through the club store, which will take your credit card. The price is $50. Btw, by registering here or on the facebook page does NOT make you a member.

[Wheelmang]

Well the block is at my trusted machine shop. He has 35 engines ahead of me and it will likely be this fall before I can get it completed. In the mean time he does not do Babbitt. I have called everyone he recommended that is within an 8 hour drive of me and none are taking in any new work because they are so backed up. If only I was about 30 years younger, what a business opportunity. I live in NW GA about an 90 minutes north of Atlanta and an hour southeast of Chattanooga, TN. If anyone has info on someone who still does Babbitt bearings anywhere near please let me know. 

Thanks

Paul.